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- Sep 10, 2004
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- 807
Awesome, can't wait to see more.
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My new PC build
- Thread starter Falcon_CMH
- Start date
question??? live fish??? if so, no watercooling i imagine, keeping the water temp for fish is pretty hard, continually introducing heat like that would probably kill them, make sure there is adequate buffering from the heat of the system.. i tried it once and they died real fast from the heat stress. really wild design, though, cant wait to see it complete.
Watercooling water and the aquarium water will of course be kept separate. The aquarium has its own filter and pump. The watercooling system has its own air intake and exhaust and is kept separate from not only the aquarium, but also from the rest of the case. The rest of the case has 12 fans (6 intake at the front & 6 exhaust at the back) to keep the air flowing throughout the case and should keep the air next to the aquarium adequately cool.
Thank you for your concern and mentioning that.
Sorry about no updates or pictures in a while. Three main reasons for this. #1. I've been gone for Christmas vacation and our 9th wedding anniversary! #2. I've been working on a number of individual parts that are uninteresting and don't make sense in just a picture apart from the rest (mostly having to do with the control panel area). and #3. I put a chisel in my finger Monday night! Not that I meant to, but the wood chipped, the chisel slipped and my ring finger on my left hand happened to catch it. Praise the Lord, the chisel was rather new and sharp, so it ended up being a clean (although rather deep) cut.
The parts are coming together though now! Here are some pictures and the various pieces are starting to be glued and/or screwed together!
Display panel with the 8" widescreen monitor in for a test fit. Did I mention that it is touchscreen?!!
The openings on either side are for the speakers. We originally had thought about getting cheap desktop speakers and attaching them, but I decided to step it up a notch. Instead, we are putting in two Peerless 3" full range drivers with their own amp capable of putting out 15watts of power! Although they won't be theater quality, they should sound better than your average desktop speakers. I can make it all fit in the display area better this way too!
You can also see the two pivot points, since this will fold flat & flush with the outside of the case when not in use.
The next couple pictures are of the keyboard tray. It will be inside the case and slide out when needed. You can see it retracted, extended and with the keyboard on it. The last picture is a close up of where the threaded rod will be threaded into the underside of the tray. The tray will automatically extend/retract with the flip of a switch on the control panel.
Last but not least, here is a picture of the front frame coming together. I've got more pieces cut and gluing right now, so Lord willing, I'll have more pictures for you, first part of next week!
The parts are coming together though now! Here are some pictures and the various pieces are starting to be glued and/or screwed together!
Display panel with the 8" widescreen monitor in for a test fit. Did I mention that it is touchscreen?!!
The openings on either side are for the speakers. We originally had thought about getting cheap desktop speakers and attaching them, but I decided to step it up a notch. Instead, we are putting in two Peerless 3" full range drivers with their own amp capable of putting out 15watts of power! Although they won't be theater quality, they should sound better than your average desktop speakers. I can make it all fit in the display area better this way too!
You can also see the two pivot points, since this will fold flat & flush with the outside of the case when not in use.
The next couple pictures are of the keyboard tray. It will be inside the case and slide out when needed. You can see it retracted, extended and with the keyboard on it. The last picture is a close up of where the threaded rod will be threaded into the underside of the tray. The tray will automatically extend/retract with the flip of a switch on the control panel.
Last but not least, here is a picture of the front frame coming together. I've got more pieces cut and gluing right now, so Lord willing, I'll have more pictures for you, first part of next week!
boushidosan
Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2010
- Messages
- 551
What software is that you're using, and what type of background work/experience do you have?
The sketch software is Google Sketchup. It has been very nice to work with. I also have Alibre, but haven't used it as much of late.
I started making computer systems six years ago, but have been making the cases for just over a year now. I guess making various boxes (for individuals, companies, speaker boxes, etc.) of various woods (pine, cocobolo, quilted maple) joined forces with my fun with working on computers and thus I started making wooden computer cases.
I'm self taught in most areas (computers, working my CNC machine, etc.) so I don't think I'm that good, but I do enjoy it. My favorite part is when someone (like Falcon) comes to me and says, "This is what I want, can you do it?" It is exciting thinking outside the box and coming up with a solution. I owe a lot to my dad and a gentleman who live in the area who have taught me much about woodworking.
Now I said all that with the assumption that you were asking me. If you were asking Falcon, well, he is the computer guru!! He is the one with the great ideas. I just make them happen!
I started making computer systems six years ago, but have been making the cases for just over a year now. I guess making various boxes (for individuals, companies, speaker boxes, etc.) of various woods (pine, cocobolo, quilted maple) joined forces with my fun with working on computers and thus I started making wooden computer cases.
I'm self taught in most areas (computers, working my CNC machine, etc.) so I don't think I'm that good, but I do enjoy it. My favorite part is when someone (like Falcon) comes to me and says, "This is what I want, can you do it?" It is exciting thinking outside the box and coming up with a solution. I owe a lot to my dad and a gentleman who live in the area who have taught me much about woodworking.
Now I said all that with the assumption that you were asking me. If you were asking Falcon, well, he is the computer guru!! He is the one with the great ideas. I just make them happen!
Got the front panels mounted to the case frame. The outside two holes are for the two drive bay columns. The hole in the center is the intake for the bafflebox (the cold air intake for the 12 Deltas in the watercooling system).
Here the frame and side panels for the top control center. The hole cut out on the left hand side is where the EVBot will slide in and out. The fingerprint reader will be on the other side of the control center--mounted on the outside. This control center will hold the display, speakers, keyboard, EVBot, fingerprint reader, control panel with all of its switches along with the ECP panel and a 3.5" media card reader, an USB expansion board and a microcontroller!
This is with the control center in place on the case:
A lot of work to do still, but it is coming along. Thanks for all the words of encouragement.
Here the frame and side panels for the top control center. The hole cut out on the left hand side is where the EVBot will slide in and out. The fingerprint reader will be on the other side of the control center--mounted on the outside. This control center will hold the display, speakers, keyboard, EVBot, fingerprint reader, control panel with all of its switches along with the ECP panel and a 3.5" media card reader, an USB expansion board and a microcontroller!
This is with the control center in place on the case:
A lot of work to do still, but it is coming along. Thanks for all the words of encouragement.
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2004
- Messages
- 807
1. Congrats on 9th year!
2. Sorry to hear about your chisel slip. It does suck that a sharp object tends to make a better cut, doesn't it? I got myself with a slipped phillips on my drill when attaching plywood on my barn and it ripped my finger up good since it was dull. Oh well, just another scar!
3. Lookin good still. Really nice design and well thought out. I originally thought you might have been in car audio when I first saw your worklog. Did you ever do custom installs?
2. Sorry to hear about your chisel slip. It does suck that a sharp object tends to make a better cut, doesn't it? I got myself with a slipped phillips on my drill when attaching plywood on my barn and it ripped my finger up good since it was dull. Oh well, just another scar!
3. Lookin good still. Really nice design and well thought out. I originally thought you might have been in car audio when I first saw your worklog. Did you ever do custom installs?
I've been working on the back panel and enclosing the Baffle Box. The Baffle box has to be enclosed so that various parts such as PSU's can be mounted, and wiring can be done without the Baffle Box getting in the way. It is also so that we can have the motherboard above it. In the following pictures what you will not see is the piece of wood that is going across the top of the Bafflebox area (and thus under the motherboard tray), but I left it off so that you could see down into the Baffle Box area.
This is the back panel up with the motherboard tray and Baffle Box in place.
This is the same, but showing that the motherboard tray will be able to slide out the back.
This is with the Baffle Box slid all the way out. You can see that it will be easy to get to the inside of the Baffle Box this way (or take it off completely).
This is from the front with the motherboard tray and Baffle Box in place.
Some explanations: The opening in the back panel for the Baffle Box is 2 inches too tall right now, because I'm going to be modifying the lid for the Baffle Box. I wasn't happy with the amount of air flow getting to the radiators inside, so I'm making a 2 inch tall lid for the Baffle Box so that I can have a larger intake on the front to route more air in.
Also, we won't have any regular fan openings in this entire case. The front case fans, the rear case fans, and the PSU fans will all have mini-ducts lined with sound dampening mats (except one rear case fan). This will keep the fans quiet and will give the case a really clean look. The front case fans have their opening just under the front panels in the floor of the case. With 2.5" tall casters, air flow will not be an issue for them. The rear case fans and PSU's will duct out a total of four exhaust ducts (two on each side placed vertically on either side of the Baffle Box). The one case fan without a duct will be the one mounted directly to the motherboard tray.
At least that is the plan at this time!
This is the back panel up with the motherboard tray and Baffle Box in place.
This is the same, but showing that the motherboard tray will be able to slide out the back.
This is with the Baffle Box slid all the way out. You can see that it will be easy to get to the inside of the Baffle Box this way (or take it off completely).
This is from the front with the motherboard tray and Baffle Box in place.
Some explanations: The opening in the back panel for the Baffle Box is 2 inches too tall right now, because I'm going to be modifying the lid for the Baffle Box. I wasn't happy with the amount of air flow getting to the radiators inside, so I'm making a 2 inch tall lid for the Baffle Box so that I can have a larger intake on the front to route more air in.
Also, we won't have any regular fan openings in this entire case. The front case fans, the rear case fans, and the PSU fans will all have mini-ducts lined with sound dampening mats (except one rear case fan). This will keep the fans quiet and will give the case a really clean look. The front case fans have their opening just under the front panels in the floor of the case. With 2.5" tall casters, air flow will not be an issue for them. The rear case fans and PSU's will duct out a total of four exhaust ducts (two on each side placed vertically on either side of the Baffle Box). The one case fan without a duct will be the one mounted directly to the motherboard tray.
At least that is the plan at this time!
quicksilver98
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2004
- Messages
- 68
I gotta say those 3d design pictures in your early part of the post look like a copier. Love the effort though, hope it all pays off!
Just a suggestion since I know this case is going to be extremely heavy. I know you mentioned it will have casters, but I would suggest building a sturdy box that's roughly the same depth/width and about 3.5 to possibly 4ft tall depending on Falcons height to mount the case too.
You could put a locking mechanism on the bottom of the case to lock it to the base and paint it to match the case. The base would have the casters on them instead and would allow you to roll it into a lan party etc. b/c I'm sure Falcon intends to show off this case.
It would also prevent the issue to have a desk or table strong enough to hold the weight of the case without it tipping over. Not sure if you thought of this as well, but if you had the case sitting on a table say at a lan party and you slide the baffel box out to show it off the weight of the box + rads + cooling could possibly cause the case to tip over could it not?
I'm sure the weight in the front will be substantial but I thought I would mention this anyway. Looking good so far and I look forward to seeing the finished product. Good luck and hopefully you'll remain accident free going forward.
You could put a locking mechanism on the bottom of the case to lock it to the base and paint it to match the case. The base would have the casters on them instead and would allow you to roll it into a lan party etc. b/c I'm sure Falcon intends to show off this case.
It would also prevent the issue to have a desk or table strong enough to hold the weight of the case without it tipping over. Not sure if you thought of this as well, but if you had the case sitting on a table say at a lan party and you slide the baffel box out to show it off the weight of the box + rads + cooling could possibly cause the case to tip over could it not?
I'm sure the weight in the front will be substantial but I thought I would mention this anyway. Looking good so far and I look forward to seeing the finished product. Good luck and hopefully you'll remain accident free going forward.
silent-circuit
[H]F Junkie
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2005
- Messages
- 16,132
If there's a fish tank in one side, this thing isn't going anywhere. LAN parties are completely out of the question, huge pain in the ass.
Glad I'm not the only one that thinks this has... dubious aesthetic value, shall we say.
Glad I'm not the only one that thinks this has... dubious aesthetic value, shall we say.
Here are the front case fan mounts and duct work. The pictures probably say it all. There is a mat of sound dampening visible in the far right dual fan mount. After painting, they will all have the sound dampening mats. The fan mounts and duct work use screws so that they can be removable. The filters and duct opening are in the floor of the case.
I appreciate your concerns, but this is too big to be on a desk anyway. We are going to use locking casters though, to help keep it in place. If it was ever put on a table or desk, it would have to be a big desk and it would be a bummer if it rolled off!!
I've also designed the aquarium to be easily removable so that the case can be moved without upsetting the fish too much. That would also be a bummer--showing off your premium case with dead fish floating in it!!
Here is the progress on the back case fan mounts and PSU mounts.
There are three PSU's to mount (1200W x2 and 850W x1), so one 1200W is on the left side (from the front of the case) and one is on the right side with the 850W below it. The three rear case fans pictured and the three PSU's all blow into the two rear ducts. These ducts will have sound dampening mats in them and the exhaust ports are all positioned to be offset from the various fans so all the noise will hit a sound dampening mat before exiting the case. The duct work will be screwed in place similar to the front ones so that there will be access to the inside. (In case you drop a screw, cat, etc. in there.)
The fans are screwed in place but the PSU's will be different. They will be screwed to a mounting plate (not shown yet) and then the mounting plate will be snapped/screwed in place. This should make a sturdy mount and make it easy to access. (I used this idea on a computer case for a house boat and it worked out really well.) Counting the PSU fans, there will be at least 7 exhaust fans out the back with the 6 intake fans at the front.
Left side:
Right side:
Top with view of motherboard tray area:
Back exhaust ports:
There are three PSU's to mount (1200W x2 and 850W x1), so one 1200W is on the left side (from the front of the case) and one is on the right side with the 850W below it. The three rear case fans pictured and the three PSU's all blow into the two rear ducts. These ducts will have sound dampening mats in them and the exhaust ports are all positioned to be offset from the various fans so all the noise will hit a sound dampening mat before exiting the case. The duct work will be screwed in place similar to the front ones so that there will be access to the inside. (In case you drop a screw, cat, etc. in there.)
The fans are screwed in place but the PSU's will be different. They will be screwed to a mounting plate (not shown yet) and then the mounting plate will be snapped/screwed in place. This should make a sturdy mount and make it easy to access. (I used this idea on a computer case for a house boat and it worked out really well.) Counting the PSU fans, there will be at least 7 exhaust fans out the back with the 6 intake fans at the front.
Left side:
Right side:
Top with view of motherboard tray area:
Back exhaust ports:
akifbayram
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2010
- Messages
- 104
This looks very interesting. I look forward to the final result!
I finished prototype #3 on the retractable doors today. When I started out in this endeavor, I didn't realize how complicated these retractable doors would be!
The good news is that it is working. The door mounts flush with the outside, but also retracts out of the way into the case. Simultaneously the drive bay is pulled forward so that the drives are flush with the outside. I'm confident enough to remake it as the final version and mount it to the case next.
I've uploaded a video of prototype #3 and it can be found on Youtube here.
The door uses plastic washers and smooth stainless steel binding posts and stainless steel washers for the pivot points. It also has plastic rollers on stainless steel rods for following the guides at the top.
The good news is that it is working. The door mounts flush with the outside, but also retracts out of the way into the case. Simultaneously the drive bay is pulled forward so that the drives are flush with the outside. I'm confident enough to remake it as the final version and mount it to the case next.
I've uploaded a video of prototype #3 and it can be found on Youtube here.
The door uses plastic washers and smooth stainless steel binding posts and stainless steel washers for the pivot points. It also has plastic rollers on stainless steel rods for following the guides at the top.
Today, I was able to make the front air intake for the Baffle Box that also holds the reservoir.
Here I'm machining the holes to hold the reservoir:
This is with the intake and reservoir in place:
This is the back of it and shows how the reservoir is held in place and how Falcon will be able to remove and insert the reservoir:
Here is a shot under the reservoir:
There is a cold cathode light inside the reservoir and these next pictures are with it on:
Here I'm machining the holes to hold the reservoir:
This is with the intake and reservoir in place:
This is the back of it and shows how the reservoir is held in place and how Falcon will be able to remove and insert the reservoir:
Here is a shot under the reservoir:
There is a cold cathode light inside the reservoir and these next pictures are with it on:
Doubl3KiLL
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2002
- Messages
- 2,759
Posting in epic case thread.
My time has been occupied with a bit of detail work of late. Below you can see some of the smaller pieces being glued into place for the rear duct work:
I've also started on the part of the front air intake that changes from the squarish shape in the front of the case to the more slit-like shape of the Baffle Box. This was much easier on paper! Here are a couple pictures of my first test fitting:
The open slot you see in the upper left of the above picture, is where the air filter and filter frame will go for the Baffle Box. The plan is for it to slide straight up and out for Falcon to easily keep it clean.
I've also started on the part of the front air intake that changes from the squarish shape in the front of the case to the more slit-like shape of the Baffle Box. This was much easier on paper! Here are a couple pictures of my first test fitting:
The open slot you see in the upper left of the above picture, is where the air filter and filter frame will go for the Baffle Box. The plan is for it to slide straight up and out for Falcon to easily keep it clean.
bobby45512
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2008
- Messages
- 452
Posting in this as well
styckx
Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2003
- Messages
- 846
Stumbled upon this thread, and at page one I was like "Ahh, yet another epic case idea hyped up that never makes it past the first post".
Then I got to the 3D renders and raised an eyebrow.
Now I'm on page 4 and picking up my jaw off the floor.
Epic case is epic.
Then I got to the 3D renders and raised an eyebrow.
Now I'm on page 4 and picking up my jaw off the floor.
Epic case is epic.
Here is the PSU mounting system. One of the problems with having the rear duct work is that you cannot readily get to the mounting screws for the PSUs. Therefore, I made mounting plates that are first screwed to the PSU. Then the PSU is slid into place and the locking tab is turned. PSUs can easily be taken out, inserted and swapped in this manner. (The top silver PSU is NOT one that Falcon is going to be using in this computer build. It was just for testing!)
Here is the progress on the side panels. The first picture is the front left side panel in place for the first time. The second picture is the front right panel in place. It also as the EVBot tray mounted to it. We decided to mount it there instead of the center control panel area to give some more room in the control panel area. The EVBot tray will still be opened and closed via a switch on the control panel though. Both side panels (left and right) are removable via handmade locking tabs on the inside.
Here is an update concerning the center control panel area. I've been able to cut down on it's size, and give it a more beveled front. The small part on the front is the door that hides the keyboard when the keyboard is inside. It will open when the keyboard is slid out.
Here is an update concerning the center control panel area. I've been able to cut down on it's size, and give it a more beveled front. The small part on the front is the door that hides the keyboard when the keyboard is inside. It will open when the keyboard is slid out.
Here is a picture (sorry about the blur) of the latches holding the panels in. There are a lot of them! I wanted Falcon to be able to have easy access to the inside of the case. With the top and two side panels coming off this way along with the acrylic side panels and top panels being hinged, he should be able to get to everything quite easily.
This is of the 2 DB-25 ports and 2 USB ports installed in the Baffle Box (part of our quick disconnect for the electronics in the Baffle Box).
This is of the 2 DB-25 ports and 2 USB ports installed in the Baffle Box (part of our quick disconnect for the electronics in the Baffle Box).
Today has been busy with detail work in attaching the side panel latches and also getting the control panel area lined up attached. Here's how it looks so far:
The latches for securing the speakers were done and preparation for making the switches panel rise automatically have been done. I've got to get some springs though and I'm waiting on the stronger servos that I ordered.
I started cutting the acrylic today! The pieces in this picture are the main ones for the waterfall on the left side of the case:
The latches for securing the speakers were done and preparation for making the switches panel rise automatically have been done. I've got to get some springs though and I'm waiting on the stronger servos that I ordered.
I started cutting the acrylic today! The pieces in this picture are the main ones for the waterfall on the left side of the case:
Falcon_CMH
Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2009
- Messages
- 524
Seeing the acryllic makes my mouth water tells me you are getting close. Well worth the wait 
Here's some pictures of the speaker mounts.
The speakers in these pictures are actually exact copies of the ones I'm going to use, but are damaged ones that I use for testing.
When the acrylic is cut the edges are rough of course so I'm getting them smooth except for the third picture here where the end has been rounded. It is for the waterfall where the water will go over this edge.
Here is some more progress on the keyboard door. Due to the angles involved it has been a bit tricky. Of course the edges are going to be sanded and smoothed before painting.
This shows the levers added to the keyboard door so that it will rotate out correctly.
I'm almost done with the air filter for the Baffle Box.
You can see how the air filter is held between two sets of aluminum screen. When Falcon needs to change/check the air filter, he just lifts this out of its slot, and unfolds it.
The speakers in these pictures are actually exact copies of the ones I'm going to use, but are damaged ones that I use for testing.
When the acrylic is cut the edges are rough of course so I'm getting them smooth except for the third picture here where the end has been rounded. It is for the waterfall where the water will go over this edge.
Here is some more progress on the keyboard door. Due to the angles involved it has been a bit tricky. Of course the edges are going to be sanded and smoothed before painting.
This shows the levers added to the keyboard door so that it will rotate out correctly.
I'm almost done with the air filter for the Baffle Box.
You can see how the air filter is held between two sets of aluminum screen. When Falcon needs to change/check the air filter, he just lifts this out of its slot, and unfolds it.