HP ZR24w

In my experience it is generally easier to return to the vendor you directly purchased from. And in this case, I like having 30 days returnability because if it is defective, I can just return it, get a refund, then re-order another one, rather than getting it fixed or replaced possibly with another repaired unit. And particularly when there are no prior reviews, I like this option.

Costco is the best from this returnability standpoint - 90 days no questions asked - but of course they don't have this monitor.
 
Are there really "brushed aluminium accents" as the spec sheet states, or is it all plastic?
 
Thanks for reminding me! I just pulled off the protective plastic sheets around the edges of the monitor and it looks/feels like real aluminum--I stopped short of taking a knife and scratching it just to see. Other than possibly the little HP logo at the top of the screen, that is about all the "brushed aluminum" I can find on the monitor. Still lovin' this thing!
 
im not sure what peoples problem is with costcentral. i just looked over their warranty stuff and it looks fine to me.

I ordered two HP ZR24w's from Cost Central. I am supposed to get them tomorrow.

I assumed they had a normal RMA policy, they don't:

**Non-defective opened items can not be returned if the factory seal is broken.

By signing for your shipment, you agree that your items have been received in a non-damaged state and that CostCentral is not responsible to replace or repair said item(s).

http://www.costcentral.com/rma.php
 
im not sure what peoples problem is with costcentral. i just looked over their warranty stuff and it looks fine to me.


*Please note that due to manufacturer requirements, there are some items that are not returnable for any reason. Some examples would be items from the following companies or categories; APC, IBM, Lenovo, Compaq, Hewlett-Packard, Primera, Xerox, Lexmark, Polycom and all Printers/Photocopiers. Defective items will be serviced or replaced by the manufacturer.*

I don't have a problem with it..... same warranty they will get. The only thing is they can return it for a refund for the first 30 days and I don't care about that I would want another LCD.
 
Well hopefully everything arrives with no problems. They are well-packed, etc.

Yep, CutterX, it feels like aluminum. Edit: Actually, I am not 100% sure - but it sure looks like it.

Someone asked about noise a few pages back - I don't hear any whining noises, humming, etc. - but my computer fan is not exactly quiet.

tordogs, do you hear any noise from your monitor?
 
I ordered two HP ZR24w's from Cost Central. I am supposed to get them tomorrow.

I assumed they had a normal RMA policy, they don't:

**Non-defective opened items can not be returned if the factory seal is broken.

By signing for your shipment, you agree that your items have been received in a non-damaged state and that CostCentral is not responsible to replace or repair said item(s).

http://www.costcentral.com/rma.php


Guys relax this is a HP business LCD not a TN from Best Buy. Until HP gives you any reason to freak out give them the benefit of doubt. As for Cost Central they are not a New Egg they deal with companies that order 150 LCD’s at a time of coarse businesses are going to deal with the manufacture…
 
Don't hear any noise whatsoever from the unit but then, who could over my noisy computer fans! Just a faint smell of warm plastic that hopefully will subside after a bit of use. Does seem the screen puts out just a touch more heat than the Samsungs did. So far, no gaming mode, etc. like the Samsungs but will keep looking. Thinking I might actually try Eyefinity with the two Samsungs as they are 1920x1200 also. Want to get used to this new unit before I start undoing it all. Having the display port and Eyefinity option was another big reason for purchasing this monitor.
 
Busted. It showed up fine but the monitor is defective/broken. The most uniform aspect: how consistently spread out the flickering vertical colored lines are across the whole monitor. I haven't called HP yet. I tried both VGA and DVI using my HD3650 as well as on-board. This screen showed the ASUS startup screen 2 miraculously random times (fully distorted with lines) during various attempts before just totally hitting the bucket.

Pretty disappointed. Maybe it was messed with in shipment? I doubt it as the box arrived in excellent condition.

BUMMER :mad:
 
That sucks, it could definitely have been damaged in shipping or something even if the box didn't get damaged, for example if it got dropped from too high and landed flat on one side that could seriously damage it. It happens :/
 
How did Cost Central's stock go from 3 to 4 after I just bought one? Should be 2 unless people are cancelling orders, or CC is playing games with us consumers to boost sales.

I've been on the same CRT since 2001 so this will be a major upgrade for me.
 
I have worked a bunch today on this monitor and at 1920x1200 I can easily read all the text in the cells of spreadsheets and database browsers. On my Samsung, even at 1600x1200, this was not comfortable - I had to bump it down to 1280x1024.

Of course, I did have to lower the brightness significantly on this HP.

Sorry to hear that, 53880.

Edit: Minor point - the OSD is counter-intuitive in terms of the - and + buttons. The minus goes down the list, the plus goes up. I think of + going forward and - going backwards. But I guess if I think in terms of minus going down and plus going up, it makes sense. Not what I would think, but I am old school.
 
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Those who have the monitor, does it have a "game mode" or something similar?

Not that they know of.

I really hope this is good in games, if it performs poorly I will be disappointed since I ordered 2 of them and I do play fast paced FPS games.
 
Not that they know of.

I really hope this is good in games, if it performs poorly I will be disappointed since I ordered 2 of them and I do play fast paced FPS games.

no kidding, thats exactly what im getting this monitor for. dvi/hdmi for my ps3, and DP for my pc.
 
Thanks...most informative post I've seen in a while. So, net result is if you want to get a wide gamut screen, make sure you have a 10-bit panel (doesn't exist AFAIK until you get into the $600-800 range w/ the new Dell U2710 or the Eizos at much higher cost)?
Well, there's the HP Dreamcolor, with a price to match of course. Otherwise NEC's forthcoming "PA series" IPS panels look like they will finally offer more reasonably priced native 10 bit panels, but they're still far from cheap unfortunately. This is something that's going to take a while to filter down, and it probably won't happen until more people realize what I posted previously, in terms of colour management being used to emulate sRGB and the limitations etc.

Some screens like the U2410 also support a simulated 10 bit mode via A-FRC dithering (not unlike how 6 bit TN panels fake that they're 8 bit colour panels). But I don't know how well this works and, of course, it still requires that you use a graphics card which can output 10 bit colour values via DisplayPort. It also means any colour managed applications would have to include 10 bit colour support. Dell have, at least, said that their latest (currently beta V3) U2410 ICM file supports 1024 points internally (And 10 bit = 1024 values), so there's a possibility of getting around these problems to some extent by using its emulated 10 bit mode. As I said, I just don't know how well this works in practice, but you'd certainly be better off with a native 10 bit panel whatever the case if you're going wide gamut. You'll see some screens like the Dell talking about being 10 bit with a-FRC dithering, or which have a 12 bit Look up Table etc. This is not the same thing as the panels native bit depth. There are very few screens with a true 10 bit panel right now..

Otherwise, it's a lot better to get something that is as close to 100% sRGB coverage as possible which this ZR24w seems to be?
Right. Wide gamut is a complete pain in the ass on 8 bit panels due to the fact that, unless you're mainly working with something like AdobeRGB, you're mostly going to be viewing sRGB content. When that happens you're effectively turning your 8 bit panel into something that's less than 8 bit, since it must throw away several million of its 16.7 million values in order to simulate those sRGB colours. With 10 bit wide gamut screens being wide gamut will finally become a true advantage to pretty much everyone since there's enough values (1024 x 1024 x 1024 = 1 billion+) that it can emulate all 256 sRGB values without throwing any values away. Of course, there's still a large caveat attached to that, which is the applications must still support colour management. But, if that happens, wide gamut screens can finally be regarded as a true advantage.

Right now, especially for ordinary end users, they're just a giant pain in the backside :)
 
Those who have the monitor, does it have a "game mode" or something similar?
I don't have the monitor, but I've read the manual and I saw that it has 'video overdrive' which is off by default. Speculative, but I assume enabling this increases response time, perhaps at the cost of image quality.
 
I'm assuming the lack of an HDMI input is not much of an issue as one could use a HDMI-->DVI or HDMI-->DisplayPort adapter for fairly little money. Correct? I'm considering hooking up an XBOX 360 to this so my wife can use the TV while I play games on the desktop.
 
no buzzing noise from this monitor, and my workspace is dead silent.


mryerse: you are correct, for HDMI i am using a DVI->HDMI adapter. for my computer i use a mini displayport --> displayport adapter.
 
Also, for those concerned about Cost Central's dead pixel policy, I don't know how HP will compare if you choose to go direct for support, but here is their "Limited Warranty":

Three years parts, labor, and on-site service. 24-hour, 90-day, toll-free technical support. Replacement options may include second business day on-site service, or next business day** direct replacement, at HP's sole discretion. With direct replacement, HP will ship a replacement display product directly to you. Using the prepaid shipping labels provided, return your failed display to HP in the same packaging as the replacement. Certain restrictions and exclusions apply. For details see your product warranty or contact HP Customer Support.

Much better than the typical one year that most vendors provide on displays.

mryerse: you are correct, for HDMI i am using a DVI->HDMI adapter. for my computer i use a mini displayport --> displayport adapter.

Thanks
 
[X]eltic;1035522534 said:
I don't have the monitor, but I've read the manual and I saw that it has 'video overdrive' which is off by default. Speculative, but I assume enabling this increases response time, perhaps at the cost of image quality.

googling it found this:
http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/hp-2709m/4505-3174_7-33743815.html
"there's a Video Overdrive option. By sending out bursts of voltage to the liquid crystals that increase the crystal's transitions speeds, Overdrive can effectively reduce the amount of noticeable ghosting effects. In our tests, turning it on made no difference in the amount of ghosting in movies or games, so we can't say that the feature actually does anything useful nor did we see a difference in power consumption. "

Nothing to do w/ lag unfortunately...
 
Nothing to do w/ lag unfortunately...
Yes, after getting hopeful when I saw overdrive in the OSD, I read something similar that overdrive has to do with pixel response rate not input rate. I was hoping for some kind of bypass option, but so far see none. Is this something that could be handled by firmware later on if it is not already, or is a hard circuitry issue?

I will run another input lag test later on to test it being on, just to be sure.
 
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Just shot 5 pics of the test ToastyX referred us to, with Video Overdrive=ON. There was no difference: HP ZR24w=Samsung 204B. It's kind of strange that it is almost exactly the same speed as the Samsung. This made me suspicious of the test until I tried it against my other Samsung, and got slighty different results.

Also remember, the HP is not at native resolution, but 1600x1200 when I do these tests, due to having to use the Duplicate Desktop on both monitors option.

Well hopefully this is not an issue for hardcore gamers. How long does it take for a real review to surface after a monitor is released? Also, whoever does this input lag test with a CRT, hopefully their CRT is also a 1920x1200 monitor to eliminate any kind of scaling slowdown. Also, I wonder if the DP port, and the two DVI ports may differ in output speeds? The HP is on the DP - I am running an HD5850.

I know chris_n subjectively estimated it ran around 30ms, and I later found it equals the Samsung 204B, which CutterX found to be about 32ms on DigitalVersus.com (I believe that is where CutterX found it). Edit: Oh yeah, and the two Samsung 204B monitors also differ from one another as reported a page or two back, one is a bit slower than the other. The HP is like the faster one.

I don't play any FPS games, so cannot give you a good estimate, though Dirt 2 seems to behave about the same on this HP as it did before on the Samsungs. But I am older and my reflexes are not that fast.
 
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I was hoping for some kind of bypass option, but so far see none. Is this something that could be handled by firmware later on if it is not already, or is a hard circuitry issue?

I dont think any monitor in history has added a new feature via a firmware update.
 
Guys relax this is a HP business LCD not a TN from Best Buy. Until HP gives you any reason to freak out give them the benefit of doubt. As for Cost Central they are not a New Egg they deal with companies that order 150 LCD’s at a time of coarse businesses are going to deal with the manufacture…

Yeah, Cost Central isn't for buying the odd item here or there. I needed a 500GB Caviar drive last week. They had 35,000+ in stock.
 
Ok have it hooked up what program do you want me to check for dead pixels with?

Grab a CRT monitor, a VGA splitter, and a camera. Then with those take pictures of the lagtime vs the CRT monitor. That's what we to see, not what dead pixels your screen has on it.
 
FYI- you need to speak with tech support for an RMA. Unfortunately I never made it that far as after getting bounced around with their non-business tech, the second I connect to an American, I lost signal.
 
Grab a CRT monitor, a VGA splitter, and a camera. Then with those take pictures of the lagtime vs the CRT monitor. That's what we to see, not what dead pixels your screen has on it.


Thanks for the help.... and you want answers?
 
bb23 said:
Just shot 5 pics of the test ToastyX referred us to, with Video Overdrive=ON. There was no difference: HP ZR24w=Samsung 204B. It's kind of strange that it is almost exactly the same speed as the Samsung. This made me suspicious of the test until I tried it against my other Samsung, and got slighty different results.
It's not strange. Most monitors lag close to an exact number of frames, so it's easy for two monitors to match. I find it more strange that your other Samsung doesn't match when it's the same model.

bb23 said:
I know chris_n subjectively estimated it ran around 30ms, and I later found it equals the Samsung 204B, which CutterX found to be about 32ms on DigitalVersus.com (I believe that is where CutterX found it).
I doubt it's that high. It's probably close to one frame (under 20 ms). The standard method of using a timer (which usually doesn't update often enough) in one part of the screen (which doesn't take top to bottom refresh into account) with clone mode (which might not be synchronized) causes inconsistent results that usually averages higher than the actual lag. That's why I recommended the bars program.
 
Grab a CRT monitor, a VGA splitter, and a camera. Then with those take pictures of the lagtime vs the CRT monitor. That's what we to see, not what dead pixels your screen has on it.

Sorry for you all but I joined this forum just to learn about this LCD and now have it. I don't need this talk or input from some punk..... I'm out.

FYI I have no dead pixels and the LCD AG coating is not as bad as the U2410.
 
Sorry for you all but I joined this forum just to learn about this LCD and now have it. I don't need this talk or input from some punk..... I'm out.

FYI I have no dead pixels and the LCD AG coating is not as bad as the U2410.

Why call Tanner8 a punk? He pretty much just corrected you by telling you what people have been asking for and what to do exactly...
 
It's not strange. Most monitors lag close to an exact number of frames, so it's easy for two monitors to match. I find it more strange that your other Samsung doesn't match when it's the same model.
I see. Regarding the Samsungs, they are 4 years old now so maybe one slowed down more with age? Actually, now that I think about it, I did get a new replacement just a year ago, right before the 3 year warranty ran out, and the replacement is the faster one - same model still.

I doubt it's that high. It's probably close to one frame (under 20 ms). The standard method of using a timer (which usually doesn't update often enough) in one part of the screen (which doesn't take top to bottom refresh into account) with clone mode (which might not be synchronized) causes inconsistent results that usually averages higher than the actual lag. That's why I recommended the bars program.
So the 32ms from DigitalVersus.com was probably determined using the standard timer method? I figured those numbers would be generated by some high end equipment that measured it. I guess not. However, that other link on this Forum that Pete referred us to, someone was complaining (I think based on subjective experience) about the slowness of this Samsung, given its price.

Edit: Actually, he was measuring the Samsung - here is that link, an interesting read: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1029433265

By the way, when I do the bars test, I go full screen on both monitors.

Well, more people are getting them now, so we should have more data soon. I am away tomorrow, but can check in, and if no one has done a CRT test, I can probably scrounge one up from one of the clients I am visiting.

ToastyX, given this method you are referring to, is the CRT all that I will need? I assume this to be the case since we have already determined that my vid card is sending out the signal to the ports in sync (given no tearing on the clone screen). I don't have a VGA splitter, nor is there even a VGA output on the card.

Another test I was thinking of, is to use a DVI to VGA adapter and test the HP's VGA port vs. the Samsung. Do you think using VGA might eliminate some lag, as suggested in the article I linked to earlier today?
 
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It's not strange. Most monitors lag close to an exact number of frames, so it's easy for two monitors to match. I find it more strange that your other Samsung doesn't match when it's the same model.


I doubt it's that high. It's probably close to one frame (under 20 ms). The standard method of using a timer (which usually doesn't update often enough) in one part of the screen (which doesn't take top to bottom refresh into account) with clone mode (which might not be synchronized) causes inconsistent results that usually averages higher than the actual lag. That's why I recommended the bars program.

From what I recall, the Samsung was shown to have 16ms average and 32ms max lag (source). So I would assume the HP is around there, which is (imo) pretty good.
 
I ordered 3 of these from costcentral for $1200 around 4am on Monday. I tried the same order from HP and it would have cost me $1431.11. The $25/monitor on top of tax and shipping charges would have cost me $231 more here in NM. This was significant enough savings to warrant going with costcentral. I still can't track the order so am just hoping for the best.

My current system consisted of a Sceptre X20WG-Naga and a X20WG-Naga II. The Naga II just went belly-up on Saturday. Its predecessor was a Dell 2005FPW but I replaced it because it began taking several minutes after power-up for it to become readable. I'm now temporarily using the Dell monitor again. The triple monitor ZR24w setup should be quite the upgrade.


Is it worth the extra $25 plus taxes to buy directly from HP vs Cost Plus? Who is going to have a better exchange policy?
 
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