What is important if later might to add TEC/peltier?

[Xylo]

I'm starting to get together components for a water-cooled system, and for the time being, I'm just going to be doing simple straightforward watercooling...however, I'm considering that at some later point I may want to try using some peltiers and such.

What considerations should I make in buying my components *now* for possibly adding peltiers later?...

From what I can think of:
- try to get bigger/better radiator?
- try to get higher flow/head pump?
- PSU = no change, as I'll basically need a 2nd power source anyway

What about:
- water-blocks?? Are there certain waterblocks that are particularly easy to later add peltiers (but are still good without them)? Are there any waterblocks that should be avoided (perhaps due to shape?)??

Or anything else that is important?

Thanks!
Xylo

 

[mikelz85]

Peltiers are not a simple way to cool your PC. They cannot simply be "thrown" into the loop for huge boosts. A few considerations:

#1. Cold Plate. Your waterblock will need to have a coldplate, which is sold by the manufacturer, usually it isn't an add on, sometimes they can be removed for normal operation without a peltier, but you will need to buy it first.

#2. Power. Peltiers pull a lot of power, you will need a 24v supply for a 24v peltier, and even a 12v peltier will need a ton of juice, meaning either a super beefy 12v rail on your PSU, or more likely, as 2nd supply. Also, anything less than 172 watts probably won't be worth the effort.

#3. Condesation. This is the most important. The coldplate will get down to -30C, the CPU will get cold as well, the back of the mobo will get cold, the socket area will get cold, and even the CPU pins will get cold. Anything that gets below the dew point will begin to develop condensation, or even worse, frost, which then melts into a ton of water. Thus you must insulate the whole deal, using neoprene and dow corning silicone to coat anything under the neoprene/around the socket. Not to mention the back of the mobo, and non-conductive gel in the cpu socket (vaseline works). Even the smallest opening, or inadequate thickness, will result in HUGE problems. This is not easy.

#4 Heat. A 172 watt peltier produces at least 172watts of heat (not sure how they measure), which is a ton, and will need to be removed. This means more radiators/bigger rads, louder/more fans, etc.

#5. Space. Fitting all of this inside a case takes some real skill, and it isn't likely to happen without a large case to be honest, especially if you need a 2nd power supply, or a huge radiator.


Trust me, peltiers may be cheaper than a pre built phase change box, but you will make up for a decent amount of it with the number of hours you have to put into building a peltier system. It takes a ton of time, and isn't something to take lightly.

I would honestly just buy whatever now, and in a year after you are comfortable with that, then look into peltiers. Unless you really want to tackle this all at once. Be prepared to be patient (you can't ghetto rig this one, the pelts are just too cold), and spend a decent amount of money. I still have a 172 watt peltier, with a DD maze block w/ coldplate, and a 24v 40 amp PSU, all just sitting in the closet, because it was too much hassle.

 

[ryuji]

nevermind there a huge waste of power. get watercooling now, and save up for direct die cooling later

 

[mikelz85]

what kind of direct die cooling is on the market now? I was under the impression that there were no direct die cooling setups except DIY. I think I'd take pelts of direct die cooling anyday. Might as well get sub ambient temps for all your effort/risk.

 

[Xylo]

Well, I'm not likely to make my own direct-die block, and I don't know of any being commercially sold or made now (or anytime soon?).....soo...

 

[ryuji]

you can build them custom. direct die is another name for phase change
if you dont wana do custom you can shell out the cash for a vapochill or the mach

 

[Talonz]

you can build them custom. direct die is another name for phase change

Direct die is not another name for phase change cooling.

There is also direct die water cooling

 

[DFI Daishi]

Direct die is not another name for phase change cooling.

There is also direct die water cooling

thank you for realizing something that a number of people over in extreme don't seem to.

 

[DFI Daishi]

well, i have a pelt rig up and running, and it wasn't easy, and i cooked some hardware along the way.

it has been interesting, but expensive and sometimes dangerous.

quite simply put: any waterblock and rad combo that will do a good job of straight watercooling, will not be suited to later pelt adaptation. the pump is probably the only thing that can safely remain consant. the one slight amendmant is that you could use a rad suited to regular cooling IN ADDITION to another rad at such time as you try pelt cooling.

i have also had a hell of a time packing all of my gear into a mid-tower case. a big case would definately make the whole propostition easier.

all in all, i would be looking at one of those arctic web 437 watt CPU coolers and a silverprop fusion HL GPU block in conjunction with a 120 watt pelt, with two or three thermochill PA160.1 rads and panaflo 120mm L1A fans on each rad, if i was building a modern pelt cooling rig right now and lived in the 'states.