• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

what connectors do you use?

Joined
Oct 2, 2003
Messages
680
So I'm in the process of rebuilding my setup and being the car guy I am, started looking into AN fittings for my system. I'd pair it up with some braided hose to give it that car look. If I go that route. All I've used in the past are ring clamps.

My question is what fittings have you used? I'm looking for other options out there because just the fittings and hose I'd need to do my system with 1/2"ID with the braided hose and AN fittings would be close to $100.

I'd like a quick connect system but all I can find marketed towards WC are plastic. I'd rather stick to metal type clamps. I just don't like the look of plastics. but if they work and look good then I might give them a try.
 
If you've got the cash, Colder also has metal quick disconnects in just about any size you'd need................. :D Word of warning though, they ain't cheap.

http://www.colder.com/asp_main/GeneralPurposeMetallicProducts.asp

FL.jpg


http://www.colder.com/asp_main/ElecCoolProducts.asp

RPN.jpg
 
If you wanted it to be really trick i would say get a tube bender and custom bend 3/8? copper pipe and silver solder it together and use a few stainless braded cables for mounting the CPU and gpu.

I my self went with barb and compression fittings and tygon tube because it was easyer but all the other cables except for sata and one IDE cable are braded in my computer ( even the power and ATC cables.)
 
They're not quick connect since most race car mechanics aren't concerned with the 10 seconds it takes to disconnect a fuel line hose to replace a filter but Earl's Compression Fittings are excellent. I've used them on the performance cars I used to build (before all the ricers took the joy out of it).

You can get them at a pretty good price from Summit Racing.

I'm planning on using them for the build I'm currently working on.
 
I don't think you want to use Colder QD's. While they use a variety of tube sizes, I think the internal QD hardware is only 1/4" ID.
 
Wrong, read the specs please (1/2" Hose barb: .375" flow) (3/8" Hose barb: .281" flow) Depending on the QD they very in ID...................... :eek: They are basicly the same as any other fitting (barbed, comprossion) out on the market. IE; the 1/2 in barbed fitting has a touch over 3/8 ID flow. You really shouldn't post misleading information unless you know what you're talking about. I have 4 sets in my had right now and have used them for a year or so and granted, like Cather said, due to the self sealing parts on the inside, they do restrict flow to a extent. But the straight through QD have the same flow as any standard fitting of like type. Thank you very much.

dsc021079lu.jpg
 
I like earls too... great fit with no leaks... but EXPENSIVE.

Aeroquip fittings with socketless hose might be a better budget alternative.

http://www.bakerprecision.com/ http://www.earlsperformance.com/

I used earl's fittings and 10AN braided on my track car oil plumbing and the stuff is hardly flexible. If you need something 1/2" ID it seems like you'll need a bunch of right angle fittings to route the stuff too.

I'll stick with tygon and innovatek compression fittings (which I consider the AN fittings of the WC world :) )

PS, Innovatek does do a quick disconnect, apparently, but I can't tell what material it is:
http://www.pcextreme.com/catalog/sku/ex-tub-68.html, and it won't be 1/2" ID anyhow.
 
eumskickin said:
If you wanted it to be really trick i would say get a tube bender and custom bend 3/8? copper pipe and silver solder it together and use a few stainless braded cables for mounting the CPU and gpu.

>>>>

^_^ that would indeed be really trick. :D
 
Bio-Hazard said:
Wrong, read the specs please (1/2" Hose barb: .375" flow) (3/8" Hose barb: .281" flow) Depending on the QD they very in ID...................... :eek: They are basicly the same as any other fitting (barbed, comprossion) out on the market. IE; the 1/2 in barbed fitting has a touch over 3/8 ID flow. You really shouldn't post misleading information unless you know what you're talking about. I have 4 sets in my had right now and have used them for a year or so and granted, like Cather said, due to the self sealing parts on the inside, they do restrict flow to a extent. But the straight through QD have the same flow as any standard fitting of like type. Thank you very much.

Wrong and you should not just repeat what Cathar says :p So next time someone says something that you think is BS then it would behoove you to spend a little extra time and check the source of the information first: Colder Products. 90% of the products they make (and the ones the OP referred to are the small coupler bodies) are either 1/8" or 1/4" QD bodies regardless of the size of the tube you hang on it. Now if you were to use a 6mm ID system then this has a negligible effect on your flow (Just Say No to High Flow). The original Koolance Exos used Colder QD fittings, but when they designed the Exos II they went to a straight through bulkhead fitting as it restricted the flow too much using a 3/8" ID tube. Yes they do make 3/8" coupler bodies, but most people would fall over at the price of them... :)
 
I have experience with AN fittings is why I thought about using them. I do have a high performance car and use AN and braided line. It would be tough to flex and I'd be using 10-12AN. guess I'll look into some of the other compression fittings or use the AN fittings and some leftover 1/2" ID 3/4" OD clear tubing I used previsouly with some 12AN fittings.

I just thought I could then mod the case into a car type theme with the braided hose etc...

and the soldering copper pipe with silver solder would be a piece of cake and I have thought about going that route. I'm a jeweler and work with that kind of stuff every day and have access to equipment that is specialized for it. Now my question is how much would this effect the flow rate vs using tubing. yes I have access to a smaller tube bender, it'll fit 1" OD and smaller. My pump flows 300gph so it's probably not a big issue.
 
I've used braided fuel line and brake line before... they weren't too difficult to work with. Of course you could always use AN compression fittings along with solid fuel line and flexi-hose. I've never seen 1/2" fuel line but if you decided to go lower flow and maintain that performance car look Summit Racing sells some REALLY trick looking anodized aluminum solid fuel line that is very easy to bend corners into.

I thought about using the solid copper plumbing but some people talked me out if it... if you decide to do something like that PM me when you have pics online... I'd LOVE to see that.

I also agree that I consider Innovatek fittings the Earl's of the watercooling world... I'm even a bigger fan after I decided to shop around for parts and found Threaded Inline Water Temperature Probe. Sharka and FrozenCPU are great for some things but the selection of Innova parts at High Speed PC is great!
 
Back
Top