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Watercooling drippage + block selection

V

VulcaN

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 22, 2001
Messages
1,917
My last block from danger den had one of those acrylic tops. It leaked in testing, i sent it back and they sent me a new one. Then like 6 months later the barbs started dripping all over my motherboard.

I think I learned two things, either dont use danger den blocks (which i doubt because im sure they actually churn out some good quality products and ij ust happend to get screwed)

or dont buy the acrylic tops.

I have a p4, i was just thinking about getting the metal top maze 4. Is there something that would be better in my situation? I have the enheim 1250 pump and a bunch of tygon left over, and a standard size cheap unpainted heatercore that fits a 120mm fan.


Also what about those cases that mount the mobo so that the processor is on the bottom? This seems like a really good idea so that in the event of a disaster it wouldnt drip on your cards no?
 
Did you check if the barbs were tight? Another forum member and I both got RBXs with barbs that were lose. Mine came so lose you could take them out with one finger.
 
yeah they were tight when i installed it. I even had to use teflon tape to stop the leaking. The problem seemed to be the metal barbs going in a plastic top. I bet a copper top would be no problem, and i know how to make sure those barbs dont leak.

Is the RBX that much better than the maze 4? If its going to be like 2 degrees cooler I could care less, im not using a peltier or anything, but if its going to give me 100 mhz extra overclock i would get it. Seems a bit steep for a block

And is the claim that the TDX is just as good as the RBX true? I would rather only have two barbs than three.
 
You could always replace the metal barbs with plastic ones, if that's the problem.
 
The lucite tops don't use tapered threads, there is an o-ring on the barbs that makes the seal. It's not nearly as good as a tapered thread IMO, but it reduces the chance of cracking the lucite and that's a good thing (unless it starts leaking on you because it's not a really good seal).
 
well nevertheless i dont think i will be going for the lucite top again, not worth the extra hassle its not like im going to be staring at the top and wishing i could see inside

So would I really see a diffrence between the TDX or can i overclock just as much with the maze4?
 
i think the TDX would probably give you a temperature change of 4-6 degrees max. Depends on how you cool your rad (in my experience). If you have the rad inside your case i imagine the temps won't change much. If you have the rad outside your case (and the fan is blowing ambient air around) the temps might be lower.
 
VulcaN said:
yeah they were tight when i installed it. I even had to use teflon tape to stop the leaking. The problem seemed to be the metal barbs going in a plastic top. I bet a copper top would be no problem, and i know how to make sure those barbs dont leak.

Is the RBX that much better than the maze 4? If its going to be like 2 degrees cooler I could care less, im not using a peltier or anything, but if its going to give me 100 mhz extra overclock i would get it. Seems a bit steep for a block

And is the claim that the TDX is just as good as the RBX true? I would rather only have two barbs than three.
Click to expand...

The teflon tape was the problem. Because it is teflon, the barb will go in a lot easier and you wont realize how much pressure is being put on the lucite as you would with goop or something. Dont use metal barbs + teflon tape with a plastic top guys.
 
You can always get a Swiftech 6002 Waterblock. One piece design takes care of the problem. Just a suggestion.
 
killernoodle said:
The teflon tape was the problem. Because it is teflon, the barb will go in a lot easier and you wont realize how much pressure is being put on the lucite as you would with goop or something. Dont use metal barbs + teflon tape with a plastic top guys.
Click to expand...

i only did it because danger den told me to when i called them to complain
 
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