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swiftech radiator frustration

A

Ajax

Weaksauce
Joined
Jun 9, 2004
Messages
65
I've been installing my water cooling system for about 5 hours now. I've been done except for 1 fitting on the radiator for the past 3 hours. For those who know the recent swiftech kits, the radiator fittings are a quick disconnect system. The fittings are neither quick to connect or disconnect and at this point, I hate them.

You insert a plastic tube into the end of your tubing and then push this into the radiator fitting until the tube is flush with the radiator fitting (the tube insert). The first 1/4 of an inch is easy. After that, there's an o-ring that makes it very difficult. I've gotten all but this one in and it just doesnt want to go any further. The tip of the plastic tube is showing. I can't get it out either.

I tried the liquid soap when I put it in and it made the other 3 I did go very easily, but this one is being a pain.

Anyone got any tips for either getting it inserted fully or removing it?
 
Have you tried lifting the ring around the connector while pulling on the tube?

Pics??
 
Here's pics:
wc1.jpg

wc2.jpg
 
Have you pulled on the blue ring while also pulling on the tubing to try and release it?
 
the directions say to remove the tubing you're supposed to push on the blue ring while pulling on the tubing.. but i'll try that.
 
Well, I'm not too familiar with the connects Swifty uses. The ones I have you pull on the ring to release the tubing.

This may sound extreme but how bout cutting tubing just above plastic insert then using needle-nose pliers to remove the insert?
 
i have enough slack there to try that.. i guess it's worth a shot.
 
well that was no good.. it doesnt want to come out.. i think i screwed the CT joint.. Any reason not to get standard 3/8" barbs?
 
Ajax said:
well that was no good.. it doesnt want to come out.. i think i screwed the CT joint.. Any reason not to get standard 3/8" barbs?
Click to expand...

If i was you i would i have that same Rad and i am running a DD system and that is the same Rad they use and they use barbs not stupid quick disconnect things that never work right
 
R!P13y said:
If i was you i would i have that same Rad and i am running a DD system and that is the same Rad they use and they use barbs not stupid quick disconnect things that never work right
Click to expand...
3/8" barbs the right size? i noticed that myself. These connectors suck.

Can I buy barbs anywhere or do i have to get them from a CPU store. I know they sell tubing at home depot and lowes. They should sell fittings.
 
if you have 3/8inch tubing you need to get the same size barbs, see i have 1/2 inch tubing and barbs, and you should be able to get barbs any place just take out your RAD and go to the hardware store and get some that fit really tight and get thread tape( can not remember the name of it, it is white taping to stop leaks in the threading) :D GOOD LUCK
 
teflon tape and i have tons of it because i play paintball and you use it on all of your fittings to keep them air tight.

I'll do that though. I'm off thursday and friday. I really dont like these fittings. They worked fine on the water block but on the radiator, they're awful.
 
Ajax said:
I've been installing my water cooling system for about 5 hours now. I've been done except for 1 fitting on the radiator for the past 3 hours. For those who know the recent swiftech kits, the radiator fittings are a quick disconnect system. The fittings are neither quick to connect or disconnect and at this point, I hate them.

You insert a plastic tube into the end of your tubing and then push this into the radiator fitting until the tube is flush with the radiator fitting (the tube insert). The first 1/4 of an inch is easy. After that, there's an o-ring that makes it very difficult. I've gotten all but this one in and it just doesnt want to go any further. The tip of the plastic tube is showing. I can't get it out either.

I tried the liquid soap when I put it in and it made the other 3 I did go very easily, but this one is being a pain.

Anyone got any tips for either getting it inserted fully or removing it?
Click to expand...

Use a 1/2-inch open end wrench to push the collet down...then pull the tube.

FYI If your lady friend, wife or SO has KY it will help a lot. If not a little water will do the trick
 
if i were you I would just not use the tube inserts. they will just reduce flow even more.

my system has those connections all over and I just dont run the inserts because 1)they are hard as hell to push in 2) they are hard as hell to remove the tubing once pushed in 3) they just make the tube even smaller at the end.
 
Tyrant222 said:
if i were you I would just not use the tube inserts. they will just reduce flow even more.

my system has those connections all over and I just dont run the inserts because 1)they are hard as hell to push in 2) they are hard as hell to remove the tubing once pushed in 3) they just make the tube even smaller at the end.
Click to expand...

Tyrant222 that is very bad advice. Push fit connections require the use of the inserts.
 
i'm getting rid of the fittings themselves and replacing them with barbs.
as far as the removal goes, i did the thing with the wrench but the tubes still wouldnt come out. It's like the collets dont want to move at all.
 
Ajax said:
teflon tape and i have tons of it because i play paintball and you use it on all of your fittings to keep them air tight.

I'll do that though. I'm off thursday and friday. I really dont like these fittings. They worked fine on the water block but on the radiator, they're awful.
Click to expand...

Yeah that stuff, :D I play paintball too and I have roles and roles of in everywhere, and I just got done building my watercooling about a month or more ago and I got 2 more roles with that... but good luck with the system can not wait to see some finished pics and stick with the barbs ;)
 
the system is all swiftech.
i'm just hoping it'll boot because of the other issue I had.

when I removed the stock HSF, it wouldnt come off of the CPU.. it was unlatched and everything but it wouldnt budge. so i was like wtf? finally it popped off, taking the CPU with it. The cpu popped out of the LOCKED socket 939.
Every pin is intact, none bent either. I cleaned it off and it dropped right back into the socket just fine and locked in place.

That right there scared the crap out of me. I've been building computers for about 8 years now and I've never had one stick to a heat sink like that. Talk about some thermal bonding. Arctic silver is some sick stuff..
 
I had push fit fittings once that you had to push in before you could pull out. It had little barbs that grabbed into the tubing, and you had to release their grip before you could push in the collet and pull out the tubing.
 
Ajax said:
the system is all swiftech.
i'm just hoping it'll boot because of the other issue I had.

when I removed the stock HSF, it wouldnt come off of the CPU.. it was unlatched and everything but it wouldnt budge. so i was like wtf? finally it popped off, taking the CPU with it. The cpu popped out of the LOCKED socket 939.
Every pin is intact, none bent either. I cleaned it off and it dropped right back into the socket just fine and locked in place.

That right there scared the crap out of me. I've been building computers for about 8 years now and I've never had one stick to a heat sink like that. Talk about some thermal bonding. Arctic silver is some sick stuff..
Click to expand...

Don't worry dude. Same thing happened to me last week when I was removing the stock 939 hsf. ( Damn therma pad!) Actually some of the pins were bent alittle and I had to stick the CPU back in on a angle, it wouldnt go in any other way!

Needless to say I was shitting bricks but no problems.
 
yes...
/offtopic
twist the HSF while its still hot to take it off...if you cant twist it much just wiggle it while gently pulling upward until it pops right off...

had to do it to my shuttle about an hour ago

/on topic
yea..i have the swftech 80mm rad...it has the quick connects that go onto the rad with the QD system...then you put the tubing in the other end of the QD connectors...

i hated them..HATED them..but there very secure.....
 
Well it's finally up and running!
I was so worried when i first turned it on I got the 2 tone of death.. but only because I forgot to turn off fan monitoring for the CPU fan...
I'll take pics tomorrow when I get a new sound card. If you're wondering why I need a new sound card it's NOT because I got it wet.
I have a Fatality AN8 with the little audio riser and I was using it.
In my Lian-Li V1000BW, with the radiator mounted at the back, inside of the case, you cant hook up the riser card...
Sucks.. but I wanted an audigy 2zs anyway. Now i have a reason to buy one.
So far, so good. Just no sound.

The temps will come down over the next few days as the CPU bonds with the block via the thermal paste. Until then, I'm running it full load (no cool n quiet).

Hope the results are good.
 
plywood99 said:
Glad to hear she's working.. :cool:
Click to expand...
Trust me, so am i!

I'm just wondering how much my temps will drop over the next few days. Currently with the system closed, it's running 39-40C at full voltage but mostly idle. It jumps around a lot.
I guess i'll give it some time to settle and stuff..
 
of course.. full load appears to be 44-46C right now too.. and as soon as load drops, temp drops dramatically.
 
Pics tomorrow..
I need to install a sound card and reverse the flow of the fans. I have a feeling that's what's causing my temperatures to be so high.
 
Alright, I had the system run all night and my temps didnt drop so I removed the block, cleaned everything up and redid the ceramique appplication plus I noticed a small leak coming from the cpu block hoses. (It was small enough that it took several hours to build any kind of accumulation)

I took everything out, rechecked everything for leaks after refitting it and put it all back in a few hours later.. Once again I have a small leak coming from the outlet hose on the cpu block.

Is there a specific way you're supposed to install hose clamps? I've tried a bunch of stuff but I'm still getting a leak at that point and I'm getting frustrated.
My temps are down a bit so I dont really want to dismount the CPU again unless I have to.

Anything that might help?

What I did last was remove the hoses from both inlet and outlet of the water block. I then dried the barbs and the insides of the hoses where they connect to the barbs. I reseated them and tightenned the clamps down firmly and then let the water flow into them. I checked for leaks at first look without the pump on and if I didn't see any, I'd run the pump. I ran it for half an hour and didn't see any leaks so I remounted the setup in my case. And of course, I spotted a leak almost immediately after getting the block seated.

So gimme any advice you got.
 
I'll still take tips, but I think I got it.
Temperatures are much better today after redoing the ceramique and fixing all the leaks.

Current temp is around 29-31C idle at stock core speed. I'll give it a few days before I OC it.
 
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