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Swiftech H2O-220

I have that same kit (well rev 1 or 2 - came w/ Apogee non-GT), nice kit, esp for the ~$190 shipped that I paid for it back in early '06. Ran my previous install (Opteron 165) no sweat all that time (~2.6, mobo limited me thinks), and currently runs my sig'd system as well. I have some dirty ass tubing though (time for a flush/clean/new coolant) - although my fault not of the system/coolant (did use DW tho).

The only suggestions I would have re: the kit is to MAKE SURE the fittings are on tight, and bleed for preferably 24 hours to make sure the bubbles are out of the system and there are no leaks. I bled for maybe 12 hours originally, didn't have one of the CPU barbs on quite enough, and it dripped a bit of fluid onto my new (at the time) 7800gt - caught in time though, nothing harmed, scared the hell out of me though!

Also, I'd suggest flushing/cleaning the system out before a final install, and consider getting some of the Petra's Tech PT Nuke, or similar product in addition to the suplied coolant. After a while (like prev mentioned) my tubes got all cloudy, and had some nasty growth @ the waterline in the MicroRes... All even though I used DW in the loop and the Swftech additive.

[edit] There's certainly other retailers out there, maybe cheaper (don't know), but I'd suggest checking out Jab-tech if you decide to go w/ this kit. They've got it @ $220.
 
bleed for 24 hours... what do you meen by bleed.. and flush/clean before final install ?

lol...i'm a total noob, everyone had their first time..

I dont want to annoy you but would be nice if you could explain it to me.... feel free to pm me if you want to... thanks !!
 
vict0r said:
bleed for 24 hours... what do you meen by bleed.. and flush/clean before final install ?

lol...i'm a total noob, everyone had their first time..

I dont want to annoy you but would be nice if you could explain it to me.... feel free to pm me if you want to... thanks !!
Click to expand...

Bleeding is a term used that means to get all the bubbles out. When you fill a watercooling loop as it's called for the first time and start the pump up, there are a lot of tiny air bubbles in the loop swooshing around.

Bleeding I think is more important when you use a T-Line setup which that kit doesn't use. That reservoir was specifically made to kill bubbles in it's design so you really just have to let it run for a bit and the bubbles clear themselves out.

Like I said, reservoirs have made bleeding much easier. You basically fill the loop and let it run to clear the little bubbles out, when it runs for a while and once the bubbles (excess air) have came out the liquid level will have lowered requiring a top off.

That's pretty much how I understand it as well. By the way, I am running the first revision of that kit right now. I've had it for a year and it's cooled my Opteron 165 @ 2.8Ghz perfectly. If you have any questions just post them here or shoot me a PM.

One piece of advice I can give is, when (if) you get this kit and install the radiator in the back of the case outside. Put the fans on so they are sucking air through the radiator towards your case. It will make the dust gather on the frontside of the rad allowing for MUCH easier cleaning :)
 
The included reservoir should eliminate all the bubbles within a few minutes, but you should still run a full 24 hour leak test.

The flushing comment is mostly for the radiator (and possibly the block), as the mass manufacturing process can sometimes leave crap inside. It's optional, but if can't hurt anything.
 
winston856 said:
One piece of advice I can give is, when (if) you get this kit and install the radiator in the back of the case outside. Put the fans on so they are sucking air through the radiator towards your case. It will make the dust gather on the frontside of the rad allowing for MUCH easier cleaning :)
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i disagree, you will make the temps inside your case higher be doing so, i would go with mounting it on the top of the case and blowing out, you will be a little hotter on the CPU (1* or 2* C at most, but you will get a better overclock on your air cooled video card, assuming all you use is the stuff in this loop) and have a cooler inside of the case (for north/south bridge cooling along with ram cooling and hard drives and psu etc
 
SippieCup said:
i disagree, you will make the temps inside your case higher be doing so, i would go with mounting it on the top of the case and blowing out, you will be a little hotter on the CPU (1* or 2* C at most, but you will get a better overclock on your air cooled video card, assuming all you use is the stuff in this loop) and have a cooler inside of the case (for north/south bridge cooling along with ram cooling and hard drives and psu etc
Click to expand...

I guess I should have said IF he decides to mount the radiator on the back of the case, then.... :)

I currently have my radiator fans blowing through it and the dust buildup is horrible on the inside and is almost impossible to clean without disassembly. I'm sure you don't want to do that every 4-6 months I know I don't.

Sure you can blow it out with compressed air but it doesn't get all the dust out and just makes a mess.
 
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