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Slim mATX case

leungclj

n00b
Joined
Nov 6, 2009
Messages
20
I have been looking everywhere for a slim PC case that actually have some good air flow to it.

i currently have a AOpen H360c
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aopen-H360C-300W-Desktop-Tower/dp/B002469CL6
and FYI its cooling is not the best for what i have.

My set up is C2D E8600 - 3.33 GHz
GPU: Sparkle GeForce GTS250 (low profile)
http://www.sparkle.com.tw/product_detail.asp?id=97&sub_id=372

as u can see, the gpu can get up to constantly 90C even with the fan running at 100%, Im very worry about its health with the current situation....

so I found this slim mATX case, CiT s002
http://www.overclock.co.uk/product/...-Case-with-450W-PSU---Black/Silver_19831.html

it looks like it may have much better air flow, does anyone here recommend a GOOD low profile PC case that would handle the heat produced from my GTS250?

Much appreciated
 
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Couple of threads down. :p

It's Da Box from Lan Gear (total crap name for a case).
I've got my sig running in it, so it's a pretty good case.
 
Couple of threads down. :p

It's Da Box from Lan Gear (total crap name for a case).
I've got my sig running in it, so it's a pretty good case.

Da Box, while great is certainly not low-profile. I think the issue you're going to run into, OP, is that for a truly "low-profile" case you're going to use a riser card with the GTX250 which inherently lowers the airflow. I know of no high-airflow "slimline" or "low-profile" mATX cases... most of the good airflow ones are cubes (as Zurginator mentioned, Da Box is at the top of that list).
 
I would start looking into lian li cases IMO, just cant beat the cooling features.
Welcome to SFF, cooling them is a nightmare, until u either get a decent fan cooled case or go watercooling.
 
Perhaps the Antec NSK1480?

Review of it.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/Antec-NSK1480

thanks, I have taken a look at this, and the review said....

Given its small size and the surprising speed at which cable clutter built up, it wouldn't surprise us if the case struggled a bit if it was really pushed with numerous high end components. A hot, half-height graphics card blocking airflow would do a lot to boost the ambient heat in the case and make it tougher to cool things down.

exactly what I am not looking for -___-....
 
thanks, I have taken a look at this, and the review said....

Given its small size and the surprising speed at which cable clutter built up, it wouldn't surprise us if the case struggled a bit if it was really pushed with numerous high end components. A hot, half-height graphics card blocking airflow would do a lot to boost the ambient heat in the case and make it tougher to cool things down.

exactly what I am not looking for -___-....

And, yet, the NSK1480 still has some of the best attention to cooling for a case in that form factor.

I think what you're looking for doesn't exist—at least in the low-profile PCI slot form factor. I think your best bet is to look for a case that accommodates a riser card and a full-height expansion card; and get a graphics card that exhausts out the back. Though, in this case, the trick is to find such a case that will accommodate two slots on the riser card (since your graphics card will take up two slots). I'm not seeing much in the way of micro ATX cases with two riser card slots (though I do find some mini-ITX ones); but some of the ones with a single slot look like they could probably be modified to accommodate a graphics card's exhaust.

It's discontinued and a bit expensive; but if you can find one and are willing to pay for it, the Silverstone LC11 might be ideal.
 
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And, yet, the NSK1480 still has some of the best attention to cooling for a case in that form factor.

I think what you're looking for doesn't exist—at least in the low-profile PCI slot form factor. I think your best bet is to look for a case that accommodates a riser card and a full-height expansion card; and get a graphics card that exhausts out the back. Though, in this case, the trick is to find such a case that will accommodate two slots on the riser card (since your graphics card will take up two slots). I'm not seeing much in the way of micro ATX cases with two riser card slots (though I do find some mini-ITX ones); but some of the ones with a single slot look like they could probably be modified to accommodate a graphics card's exhaust.

It's discontinued and a bit expensive; but if you can find one and are willing to pay for it, the Silverstone LC11 might be ideal.

I think the nsk1480 is doable even with a highend low profile video card. Perhaps it might require some modding, but it will be doable. Maybe an aftermarket cooler for the video card would help with GPU temps? Like a zalman vf700 or 900 depending on if there is enough room. I think cable clutter could be eliminated by removing connectors that you will not use. Changing the fans in the system may help as well, maybe noctua 80mm fans? I heard those are pretty much the best 80mm fan for noise/performance.
 
I just built a system in this case (also available here). The problem with a GTS 250 in a slim case is that the card will basically block airflow. The case I got might work because it has a lot of perforations on the bottom and side next to where the card will be. There may also be enough room to shoehorn an 80mm fan (maybe slim fan) on the bottom of the case blowing up. There is an 80mm fan at the top of the case exhausting. When I say bottom and top, I mean it as the case stands as a slim tower.

Other notes on the case:
Comes with a multi-card reader.
Comes with a PSU that is probably not very good. I tested it and it was really loud, and as a 450W was a lot lighter than the 300W FSP that I replaced it with. Being super light is usually not a good sign in a PSU.
The PSU size is SFX.
The power cord has an angled plug that is really low profile. Don't recall seeing any angled plug that low profile, so don't lose the cord.
The included fan was actually super quiet at full speed. However, it is sleeve bearing so it may not last forever.
The included stands raise the chassis about an inch.

Here's my build:
Pentium G9650 CPU
MSI H55 chipset mobo
2GB Patriot DDR3
Kingston 40GB SSD
Samsung DVDRW
XION XON-810P chassis (same as Pixxo CI-8102H)
FSP 300W SFX PSU

The system is really snappy with Windows 7. S3 suspend draws around 2W according to my Power Angel (same as Kill-A-Watt, so disclaimers apply). Hits in the 70W range under load. Idling in Windows gets around 35-42W. Here are some pics:

100_2790.jpg

100_2786.jpg

100_2783.jpg
 
wow, thanks Zap! I have not seen this low profile case before. Its looking great. At least you have no problem with it yet. And it does looks like it has some good potential air flow.

just wondering, what i didnt see you included a graphics card in the set up. You using on board one?
 
Yes, using IGP (socket 1156). Just built it two days ago, so maybe more stuff will come up. So far, besides the lightweight "450W" PSU being really noisy in my 5 min of using it before swapping it out, the case is a good value. Newegg was $3 cheaper shipped, but Tiger Direct is 1 day shipping away for me. Ordered around 6pm and got it next day around noon.

Let's see, if I had to nitpick beyond the PSU...

The location of the PSU means you can't use just any power cable and the one included is rather thin (but it doesn't need to carry much current). The location also means the 4-pin +12v stretches over the motherboard. The included PSU had a longer cable that potentially could run behind the motherboard, but my replacement FSP did not.

All the vents to give it decent cooling also means a lot of dust. Of course being that it is designed to go on the desk automatically means less dust over being placed on the floor.

The metal is rather flimsy, but less noticeable due to small size.

The side panel doesn't line up with the plastic face that great on mine. I notice it the most when putting the side panel on, but don't notice it later... until I have to put the side panel back on again.

The motherboard standoffs are a permanent part of the case. My MSI motherboard barely reaches the farthest set of standoffs, but doesn't actually have the mounting holes. Thus, I had to put some tape on the standoff so that bare metal doesn't touch the PCB.

Case comes with basic instructions, which is good because there's a little piece of metal which is included for attaching the HDD. Instructions helped. Instructions also help with removing the plastic face. You need to remove it to get the drive subchassis out, which you need to do before installing any drive.

It only supports an internal 3.5" drive. I successfully used one of those aluminum adapter trays which was included with one of my SSDs. The tray is held on with three screws, not four.

The optical drive screws in from the bottom of the subchassis. Mine had a little sticker of an arrow. If you line up the screw with that arrow, it fits the front face perfectly - at least in mine using a recent Samsung SATA DVDRW. Lining up is important because there is a flap that goes over the tray for cosmetic reasons.
 
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