• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

pump failure, system still runs!

sonnybobiche

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 1, 2006
Messages
155
I had replaced my stock cooling with the very shitty thermaltake bigwater SE kit. The pump failed two days ago (after about a month of use) but I didn't realize it. I used the computer for a day until I noticed artifacting (6600GT is in the loop as well.) I pop open the machine and see that the pump has clearly failed and the water has receded back into the reservoir. Both the waterblocks were running bone dry. I immediately shut down the system and ordered a DD Mag pump + 1/2" clearflex hose. Also ordered 1/2"-1/4" barbs, because the flippin' system is all 1/4". Hopefully I'll be able to phase out the components slowly to 1/2". (Or quickly if they fail, as I expect they will.) The moral of the story is don't buy cheap watercooling components. BTW this miracle occurred on an amd 64 3200 and an msi 6600GT. I think the only reason the system continued to function was the huge TT armor case with the large top opening and the rad fan producing airflow through the case. Thoughts?
 
yeah you have to use 1/2 inch ID if you want to cool anything properly, smaller just wont do.
 
Everyone that I know that has the bigwater has had a problem. I suggest either going with aircooling or invest in real watercooling
 
From what I read after I bought the system, I predicted some type of failure. I'm glad it was the pump that failed, as opposed to the (anticipated) cpu block.
 
I have the older swiftech 120 kit that had the old style cpu waterblock that was copper, not the apogee. Normally this thing with cpu only, runs a 3500+ at 2530 at 20-21C with the 3/8 ID tubing. On a recent case upgrade i pushed too hard on the molex from the water pump, and i guess it pushed a pin backwards. Anyway I fired up one of my favorite older games, and played for like an hour and a half with no pump running. It just had the 120mm fan blowing through the radiator. The temp was at a steady 40C. It probably would have ran a lot longer that way if i hadnt noticed it sooner. It did stay at 40 though for a few minutes with just windows running before it dropped. (im a sic fk i sat there to see what it would do.) I noticed no ill effects at all during gameplay as it was still within spec, but i almost poo'd when i saw the temp that high.

The only thing i wanted to bring to this thread is that a good kit will survive a pump failure due to the amount of fluid to transfer the heat away. It kinda makes me wonder about some of the less expensive kits just not having enough liquid in them. My kit with its 5 1/4 bay resorvoir always kept fluid in the entire loop, even without the pump running.
 
Well, I had put the res at the bottom of the case for aesthetic reasons, so when the pump failed, the coolant slowly rolled back into the res. Inline system soon!
 
Darkala said:
yeah you have to use 1/2 inch ID if you want to cool anything properly, smaller just wont do.

what an asinine statement :rolleyes:
 
You have a leak or you didn't put near enough coolant in if the tubing becomes empty when the pump is off.
 
i agree with the 1/2" only thing and man i cant type fast so, i got a bigwater block for 1/2" and i coulda got a storm but i thought its insides looked wimpy so i got the TT crap and now i'm trying to make a impringement block. Thermaltake Hater For life :mad: :mad: :mad:

oh, yeah and small bore crap is assa9
 
best [486] said:
i agree with the 1/2" only thing and man i cant type fast so, i got a bigwater block for 1/2" and i coulda got a storm but i thought its insides looked wimpy so i got the TT crap and now i'm trying to make a impringement block. Thermaltake Hater For life :mad: :mad: :mad:

oh, yeah and small bore crap is assa9

Good lord... what is with all the flame bait recently?
 
Punx_Clever said:
Good lord... what is with all the flame bait recently?

I think this is where another thread left off. "...and then it morphs into hi flow v low flow, and then degenerates into morons v dumbasses."
 
Note: TN, you do your share of it too though.

OP: you should have definately had enough water to completely fill the system... I cant understand why you wouldn't op off the res once the loop was full.
 
If the reservoir was that low his loop was probably always full of bubbles, and if it was low enough his pump might have been running dry or almost dry, which would kill it.
 
yea i had the big water kit and if something bumped the case hard enought the pump would get air stuck in it and it wouldn't pump. If u restarted the computer it would start back up again. Happened to me twice actually. Was not a happy camper but i think it was a safety issue w/the pump actually so it wouldn't burn out.
 
Why the heck did you not fill up the reservoir? If the res was running that low then the inlet water no doubt was waterfalling in and keeping your loop full of air bubbles.
 
No I assure you, the reservoir had plenty of juice in it. The pump was never short of water, it's just that there was a lot more res than necessary, and when the pump failed, the water drew back and topped off the res. It was about 3/4 full anyway. Don't forget this is 1/4" tubing!
 
Back
Top