Problems Jumping Enermax Liberty 620

Justintoxicated

[H]F Junkie
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I have an enermax liberty and I'm jumping the green wire to ground. it sorta works, but it's constantly clicking. Basicaly it keeps turning on and off every second and I can't get it to turn over my pump. Fans spin up but I can here them powering on and off as well.

This is my second enermax liberty as the first one exploded. I had to solder a capacity to the switch on my computer just to get this one to fire up other wise it would start to power up and then shut off. I thought it was just an issue with my DFI expert as they were known to have these sort of problems, however this is my first time trying to jump this one.

I just want to test my water loop for leaks. Need help!
 
You're not jumping the right wires.

Make SURE you're jumping the green wire to a black wire. Try a different black wire (the one right beside the green wire works best).

This happens to me when I jump the incorrect wires.
 
I tried every black wire. no dice. So I need to buy a new PSU to leak test my system?

I HATE ENERMAX I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER PRODUCT FROM THEM AGAIN!
 
Take a paperclip and unfold it. Shove one end into the green wire cap and shove another end into any black wire cap and make sure they make good contact. Why are you jumping the PSU anyway? I don't believe it's good for it.
 
Jumping a PSU with very little load on it is a bad thing. As evidenced by you destroying the first one.




However, if you're going to jump the PSU, do it right. Purchase a PSU tester that includes a "dummy load." Such as this one: http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=77203 Or one of these: http://www.frozencpu.com/search.htm...&mv_session_id=F3R94WuG&searchspec=PSU+tester



Then you will be able to turn on your PSU and run the pump off of it because the tester keeps enough load on the PSU to make it think it should keep running.
 
Not how I killed the first one.
My Ex was playing WOW when the computer shut off.
Turned it back on and it blew up really loud.

Never heard that it was bad for the PSU to run a pump for a while, not sure why that would be...

I bleed the system with a small ATV battery I had laying around.
 
Never heard that it was bad for the PSU to run a pump for a while, not sure why that would be...

A computer power supply is designed to run with a minimum resistance or "load" on the various power rails. If it does not sense this load, newer supplies are designed to shut down automatically. Forcing it to run without this load can damage the components in the PSU for the same reason that you can fry a car stereo amplifier by not using the correct speakers (8 ohm versus 4 ohm versus 2 ohm, etc).
 
A computer power supply is designed to run with a minimum resistance or "load" on the various power rails. If it does not sense this load, newer supplies are designed to shut down automatically. Forcing it to run without this load can damage the components in the PSU for the same reason that you can fry a car stereo amplifier by not using the correct speakers (8 ohm versus 4 ohm versus 2 ohm, etc).

Does not really make sense to me, car amplifiers are pretty different. If you turn on a car stereo amp and have nothing hooked up to it it will just sit there. 12V pump and a few fans is not an improper load like hooking a 1ohm load to a 4 ohm amplifier. I never had a problem jumping my first Liberty 620. This one has given me problems ever since I purchased it... Even turning it on normally it has to try to start up several times. If an overclocked opteron 8800GT and 3HD's is not enough load I'm not sure what is...If it was true then how is everyone else jumping their PSu these days to bleed the loop?

Can somoene link me to some info that will back this up?
 
Sometimes it's not so much the PSU as it is the motherboard, do you have another motherboard to test? As far as jumping it goes, that should always work and a pump + fans is a decent enough load. It's very possible that you might have a faulty unit, not every PSU is perfect (although enermax makes good PSUs).
 
Does not really make sense to me, car amplifiers are pretty different. If you turn on a car stereo amp and have nothing hooked up to it it will just sit there. 12V pump and a few fans is not an improper load like hooking a 1ohm load to a 4 ohm amplifier. I never had a problem jumping my first Liberty 620. This one has given me problems ever since I purchased it... Even turning it on normally it has to try to start up several times. If an overclocked opteron 8800GT and 3HD's is not enough load I'm not sure what is...If it was true then how is everyone else jumping their PSu these days to bleed the loop?

Can somoene link me to some info that will back this up?

The correct way to "jump" a PSU is to use a dummy load such as one found in the PSU testers I mentioned. However, if you still want to jump it, you might want to try this instead of your current method:

1) Unplug PSU from wall and all components.
2) Place a jumper wire from a +5 line (Red) to the PWR_GD line (Pin 8 - Gray).
3) Place a jumper wire from the PWR_ON line (Pin 16 - Green) to a GND line (Black)
4) Plug in some fans and your pump to the PSU.
5) Plug PSU in to the wall.


*NOTE* - The above steps may cause damage to your PSU. These things are not designed to run lightly loaded. I am not responsible for any damage you might do if you're not using the proper tools for a job.
 
I have an enermax liberty and I'm jumping the green wire to ground. it sorta works, but it's constantly clicking. Basicaly it keeps turning on and off every second and I can't get it to turn over my pump. Fans spin up but I can here them powering on and off as well.

Hm, sounds like you're jumping PW_ON (green) to Ground (black)...which is what you just had heartache about me saying. So, either you don't know what you're talking about / doing, or you don't understand it.



The PW_ON gets pulled low by the motherboard once it receives a momentary power switch signal.



BTW, go here http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm

Read and learn.
 
Hm, sounds like you're jumping PW_ON (green) to Ground (black)...which is what you just had heartache about me saying. So, either you don't know what you're talking about / doing, or you don't understand it.



The PW_ON gets pulled low by the motherboard once it receives a momentary power switch signal.



BTW, go here http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm

Read and learn.

I thnk you are not understanding. Jumping a power wire to ground is a direct short. PW_ON is not a power wire. I don't know how the PW_GND works but it sounds as if it should be a ground wire.

Thanks for the link it clearly states that :


- "Why the computer/fan does not turn on after flipping the power supply's switch to the ON position?
ATX power supplies differ from AT power supplies in several important regards. Major among these is that ATX supplies depend on logic circuits on the motherboard to turn it on. Once the power switch is flipped, the power switch on the ATX power supply (some ATX power supplies do not even have such a switch), the ATX power supply sends a 5V 720MA current to the motherboard through pin 9 on the power connector. That current is for WOL (Wake-up On Lan) and power on circuits. A power-on jumper on the motherboard connects to the pushbutton located in front of ATX case. When the pushbutton is pressed, it sends a signal to the motherboard, which in turn notifies the ATX power supply to turn on full power. The location of the power-on jumper on the motherboard is manufacture dependent. One needs to read the motherboard manual to locate that jumper. At any event, do not try to manually jump-start the power supply without attaching the motherboard. The power supply is expecting certain sensing circuit feedback to regulate the output voltage, manually starting it without attaching it to the motherboard could cause damage to the power supply. "

- "While we're at it, you can power up an ATX power supply by shorting the green wire with any black ground wire. As you know, the ATX power supply will not turn on normally without a motherboard connected to it. There are times when you may want to test an ATX power supply or use the voltage from one but don't really want to hook up a motherboard. There's only one green wire and there are plenty of ground wires so it's easy to do. To use a bent paper clip and insert one end in the green wire connector and bend it around and put it into a black wire connector. "

Read this several times. It sounds as though they are calling "jumping" a PSU is sending 5v 720ma current to a particular pin. But it then goes on to tell you that it is ok to "Short" (not jumper) the green wire to a black one (at least thats how I am interpreting this). Which is what I am trying to do. I guess I should change the topic to : Problems "Shorting" a PSU to make it start. But that sounds ridiculous. My old Enermax libery never had a problem jumping the green wire to a black one. My friends setup actualy came with an adapter to do just this. It really can't be that bad. It is time to RMA this PSU as it has problems turning on even when connected to the MB.
 
Read what I wrote.


Then tell me where I told you to short a power wire to ground. If you understood the ATX standard for a power supply, you'd understand what I've told you over numerous posts.
 
Read what I wrote.


Then tell me where I told you to short a power wire to ground. If you understood the ATX standard for a power supply, you'd understand what I've told you over numerous posts.

"Place a jumper wire from a +5 line (Red) to the PWR_GD line (Pin 8 - Gray)." Thats the one that has me worried, should not need to jumper this..
 
"Place a jumper wire from a +5 line (Red) to the PWR_GD line (Pin 8 - Gray)." Thats the one that has me worried, should not need to jumper this..

Once again, you don't know what the ATX standard is if you don't understand that statement.



The ATX power supply incorporates a "Power Good" sense line. This is the Gray line (Pin 8). If the jumper from the green line to ground does not power your supply, it is probably auto shutting off due to no +V on the PWR_GD line. Therefore, you need to pull it high with a +5V line (Red).

Perhaps you should just spend $30 on a PSU tester, rather than messing around with technology you do not have the desire to understand.
 
Once again, you don't know what the ATX standard is if you don't understand that statement.



The ATX power supply incorporates a "Power Good" sense line. This is the Gray line (Pin 8). If the jumper from the green line to ground does not power your supply, it is probably auto shutting off due to no +V on the PWR_GD line. Therefore, you need to pull it high with a +5V line (Red).

Perhaps you should just spend $30 on a PSU tester, rather than messing around with technology you do not have the desire to understand.

or RMA the PSU for one that works like it is supposed to (I.E. my first Liberty 620)
 
That works too. But just because "you've never heard of that" doesn't mean someone is wrong.

Some light reading (Note -- PWR_GD and PWR_OK are interchangable):

PWR_OK is a power good signal and should be asserted high by the power supply to indicate that the +5VDC and +3.3VDC outputs are above the undervoltage thresholds of the power supply. When this signal is asserted high, there should be sufficient energy stored by the converter to guarantee continuous power operation within specification. Conversely, when the output voltages fall below the undervoltage threshold, or when mains power has been removed for a time sufficiently long so that power supply operation is no longer guaranteed, PWR_OK should be de-asserted to a low state. The recommended electrical and timing characteristics of the PWR_OK signal are provided in the ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide.

Motherboards should be designed so the signal timings recommended in the ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide are used. Using these recommendations will help drive the industry to an acceptable standard.

http://www.formfactors.org/developer\specs\atx2_2.pdf



No damage or hazardous condition should occur with all the DC output connectors
disconnected from the load. The power supply may latch into the shutdown state.

http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf




Perhaps you should try what I'm suggesting, as you may have a perfectly function PSU. It may just be shutting down because IT IS DESIGNED TO DO THAT...

Or, don't listen to an E/CE.
 
That works too. But just because "you've never heard of that" doesn't mean someone is wrong.

Some light reading (Note -- PWR_GD and PWR_OK are interchangable):



http://www.formfactors.org/developer\specs\atx2_2.pdf





http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf




Perhaps you should try what I'm suggesting, as you may have a perfectly function PSU. It may just be shutting down because IT IS DESIGNED TO DO THAT...

Or, don't listen to an E/CE.


Well the old one jumped fine and this one has problems even when plugged into the MB. I think enermmax is just junk these days. Once the PC is on it seems to be ok though, just sometimes take a while to get it to turn on...

I ended up jsut using a 12v battery for the leak test as the battery in the laptop Ihad borrowed died on me...
LeakTestingBattery.jpg
 
Well the old one jumped fine and this one has problems even when plugged into the MB. I think enermmax is just junk these days. Once the PC is on it seems to be ok though, just sometimes take a while to get it to turn on...

That changes things. Send it back and I hope you get a good PSU (of whatever brand) in return.
 
got the replacemetn as well as brass tops and a bunch of other new stuff so I'm going to give it a shot again tonight.
 
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