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New Setup Coming Soon!

Brando457

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Messages
1,232
http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ex-blc-87.html Dangerden TDX 52$

http://www.dangerden.com/mall/Pumps/Pump_hydor.asp Hydor L35 53.95$

http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ex-res-44.html 13.99

http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/dye-03.html Green UV Dye $9.99

http://www.frozencpu.com/cgi-bin/frozencpu/ex-rad-07.html Radiator 52$


182$ total
This is going to be my first attempt into the watercooling world. So far these are the components iI have my mind set on buying. My case is a chieftec like the antec soho fileserver 1080amg. I know most will say why don't I go with the 1/2 tubing, its because limitation of size and as far as looks i dont like it. I wanted to double check and make sure that I wasn't missing anything except the tubing and clamps which I will buy at homedepot. I'm going to use a TLINE rather than a res as its cheaper and from what I've heard/read is just as good.


For the pump is there anything special I need to make it fit the 3/8 fine or can i just stretch the tubing over it and clamp?

Anything else or any suggestions please feel free to leave them
 
one thing i can say is get tygon tubing vs home depot tubing. the quality is better, but ull be paying a little more for it.

also my home depot is a shame when it comes to clamps..they wanted 79 cents per clamp. www.mcmaster.com and u can get the tubing and clamps from there for a little bit more but overall quality would be better

just my opinon though
 
Clamps were somewhere around a dollar for a pair at Lowes when I bought some. At Kmart they have four packs for $2.
 
Problem with cheap tubing is the damned stuff will not bend. If you can bend it chances are it will end up kinking. Heating it up doesnt help at all either. So if you have straight lines it fine but otherwise go with the clearflex. Tygon is more expensive because it meets requirments for use with food and beverages for consumption, and thus costs more than clearflex, no reason to pay big for it for a WC setup.
 
okay so i decided to go buy 10 ft of the clearflex from frozencpu, what about clamps the metal screw ones or the plastic ones? And how does the rest of my setup look.
 
Clearflex IMO is a good choice. I'd personally use the metal clamps if you have non-grippy barbs or tubing. The plastic clamps work fine, they clamp in a more circular fashion. The metal clamps if not fitter properly will clamp in a squished-teardrop shape. Either tighten them down HARD or very lightly with the metal clamps. If you have high quality tubing (which you do) and super-grippy barbs i'd say the clamps are just there for peace of mind... but then again... my barbs are custom machined o_O

The rest of your setup looks alright, but IMO you're getting RIPPED OFF for that radiator. If you're into building your own, you can build the same thing for ~$30 if you are so inclined. I think you might check out dtekcustoms.com and check out their radiators. You'll probably want a heatercore style rad, although the difference is fairly negligible, i think heatercores just work better.
 
diredesire yes i was looking at a heatercore dangerden has on tehir website, but I was under the impression I'd have to mod the shit out of it to connect the tubing and stuff to it. If it is just like the radiator w/out the nice paint then I'll buy it. Please reply back, also I like peace of mind ;) so since i'm not buying cheap tubing ill just buy the plastic clamps
 
Brando457 said:
diredesire yes i was looking at a heatercore dangerden has on tehir website, but I was under the impression I'd have to mod the shit out of it to connect the tubing and stuff to it. If it is just like the radiator w/out the nice paint then I'll buy it. Please reply back, also I like peace of mind ;) so since i'm not buying cheap tubing ill just buy the plastic clamps
It's basically the same, no modding will be required to connect tubing to it, they sweat (solder) barbs on the cores for you. The only thing about them is they're unpainted and ugly... and they have no mount holes. You'll have to come up with a way to mount it in your case which may or may not present a problem. You can put bolts through the fins without leakage though, so don't be afraid of a heatercore. They've got low flow resistance and perform GREAT. You can also paint them yourself if you're so inclined. The Black ice series of rads have fan-holes stock so you can just screw the fan straight onto the rad, but IMO this is worse because the big deadspot right underneath the fan gives less full-airflow-coverage. Build a cheap shroud out of poster/project board and call it a day. You might also consider using sheet aluminum/metal for that industrial look, or get creative. I just used posterboard with some USPS Priority mail tape wrapped around it to prevent air-leakage and went off on my merry way. It's all up to you. My rad is out of view of the window so i don't really care what it looks like. You might, to each his own.
 
indeed thanks for the great response, well since I'm a bit lazy and new to this I feel it'd be best for me to go with the blackice just because its simpler. So I'll be getting a blackice and a shroud now :X. The only thing thats left to do now is order everything and figurre out how to make it fit in my case. It's going to be a tight fit as far as the pump and rad go. I'm either placing the rad at the top of the case and the pump on bottom, or both on bottom and I'm not doing a res just a T line which will be stealhed somehow. Also then I need to send my external case panels out to go get painted :).
 
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