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New 930 Build

M

Matt_Rapp

n00b
Joined
May 27, 2009
Messages
18
Hey can you guys take a look at my planned build?

I'm ordering the MB and CPU soon, but the the water cooling parts will have to wait until summer. I have most of the major parts already like the case (800D!), PSU...

When I get enough $ for WC I plan on doing a single Pump>CPU>Rad>Front Panel>Res loop. I'm making my own front panel with a spinner out of acrylic to put in a single drive bay. I've attached the rough plans, I haven't finished the channels yet because I don't know how much room I need to leave for the compression fittings and the G 1/4 threads. If anyone has the metric dimensions they would be greatly appreciated.

See this Album for the plans, 3d views. With more to come, hopefully soon.

Also should I split the loop off with T-reducers so only 3/8ths tubing goes to the spinner while 1/2 in tubing bypasses it? I don't want to sacrifice performance but I want the spinner to work too.

How much coolant and tubing should I buy, 12-15ft? I know I run the risk of having gunk in the loop but unless anyone has a real reason not to I'm going with the PrimoChill for the UV effect.

Can I get away with one rotary fitting and two normal compression fittings on the pump top or should I just get two barbed fittings?

I plan on hooking up the 3 way block with the M to M adapter and Temperature sensor to the radiator right after the cpu block and puting another one in the res.

I am also making another acrylic panel with a 3.5 drive bay for a card reader, some front mounted ports and lighting switches, the 3d views are almost done.

Let me know what you think!

To Buy

CPU: Intel Core i7-930 2.8GHz
Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D Premium
TIM: Indigo Xtreme
Acrylic Adhesive: IPS Weld-On #4
Pump: Danger Den/Laing DDC 3.25 -12V 18 Watt Version
Pump Top: Alphacool Laing DDC Clear Acrylic Top
Pump O-Ring: Feser Laing DDC Series Pump Replacement O-Ring - Blue (DDC Series / DDC-12V / MCP350 / MCP355)
Pump Vibration Stopper: Alphacool Pumps - Eheim/Hydor/Laing Attachment Uncoupling Set 4 Dampers
CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee™ XT Extreme
Radiator: Feser XChanger Triple 120mm Xtreme Performance Radiator
Reservoir: Koolance Inline Reservoir Version 2 - 240mm
Reservoir Holder: Koolance Reservoir Bracket - 80mm
Water Temp Sensors: Bitspower G 1/4" Black Sparkle Temperature Sensor Stop Fittings
G1/4 T-Block: Bitspower Crystal T-Block - 180 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
O-Rings: Bitspower O-Rings UV Blue - 10 Pack
Fitting Thread Sealant Tape: Fitting Thread Sealant Tape $2.00 1
Compression Fittings Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (10)
G1/4 M to M: Bitspower Mini Dual G1/4" High Flow Fitting - Black Matte Finish (1)
Rotary Fitting: Bitspower G 1/4" Rotary 45 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter - Black Matte Finish (2)
Tubing: PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall – Clear
Fluid PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid Cooling Fluid (32 oz.) - Black / UV Blue
LED Stopper G1/4: Bitspower Crystal "Stop" Fitting G1/4" with O-Ring & 5mm LED Holder
T-Splitter: Primochill 1/2" UV Reactive Leakproof T Fitting - UV Blue
Tube Clamps: Primochill Resuable Hose Clamp [19mm, 3/4" OD] – Black


Already Have:

Memory: CORSAIR XMS3 (3 x 2GB) 1600 Cas Latency 8 Timing 8-8-8-24 1.65V link
Air Cooling for Memory: CORSAIR CMXAF1 Fans
Optical Drive: Sony Optiarc Black 24X DVD+R
140mm Fan: Koolance FAN-14025HBK
140mm Fan: Thermalright X-Silent 140mm Liquid Bearing
PSU:Corsair HX1000
GPU: XFX HD-577A-ZNFC ATI Radeon HD 5770
HDD:Western Digital 1 TB Caviar Black
Fan Controller 1:Scythe KS01-BK KAZE SERVER
Fan Controller 2 :Scythe Kaze Master Ace
Fan Radiator/Case: Scythe 3000 RPM ULTRA KAZE 120 x 38 mm
Fan HDD: Scythe 1200 RPM SlipStream
Fan Case: Scythe SFF92D 92mm
Flow Impeller: EK Replacement Spinners - Dual Bay Res (EK-BAY SPIN)
Air Cooling for CPU (Temprary): Scythe MUGEN-2 SCMG-2000 120mm
Lighting: Cold Cathoid UV and Blue tubes with one sound and one regular controllers
Case: Corsair Obsidian 800D
OS: Win 7
 
Looks like you did your homework on this build.
I'd be cautious about the thread sealant. I've used thread sealant for copper compression seals, and sometimes it could make the seal worse. The key with bitspower compression seals is to just make sure the O ring connecting the block or pump to the fitting is pressed tightly - for me that's finger tight, then a quarter of a turn more. If you can't see that O-ring or just barely see it, you should be good (with acrylic i'm very careful not to overtighten).
The only other thing I'd mention is you might want to buy a second high quality TIM when/if you add more cooling blocks. Indigo is very good, but only sized for cpu blocks right now.

Specific answers to your questions:
Also should I split the loop off with T-reducers so only 3/8ths tubing goes to the spinner while 1/2 in tubing bypasses it? I don't want to sacrifice performance but I want the spinner to work too.
You'll be adding a little restriction to the loop by splitting. The volume 3/8th's carries is about 12% less then half of 1/2 tubing. However the restriction will be offset for the most part, and shouldn't affect you too much. If you like the spinner, it looks like you'll have power and cooling to spare.


How much coolant and tubing should I buy, 12-15ft? I know I run the risk of having gunk in the loop but unless anyone has a real reason not to I'm going with the PrimoChill for the UV effect
Only the gunk. While most don't recommend it, I don't think you have to avoid it if it pleases you. You might want to consider the tygon B-44 tubing. Originally made for food, it is specifically non-porous, so less of the dye will stick to it.
Seeing as your case is big enough for a triple radiator, but you have a short loop, you probably can do it in as little as 6-8 ft. However, for safety purposes, as well as accidents, mis-measuring, etc. getting twice that amount is not a bad call. 15 ft may have a lot left over, but you won't be sitting home waiting for another order of tubing if you make a bad cut.

.
Can I get away with one rotary fitting and two normal compression fittings on the pump top or should I just get two barbed fittings?
The pump top you want should be able to fit rotary + 2 compression fittings. I can't say 100% because I don't own it, but it lists as g 1/4 which is the universal fittings size. Plus, if it doesn't work out, you can just use the barb fittings that come with your apogee xt (since it looks like you're getting compression fittings for that as well).
 
I should go with the reduced & split 1/4 loop for the spinner then? The only problem is the added tubing and T-reducers will be a pain to hide/tie down as I don't think there is enough room for both in the drive bays, but I might be able to get one along the back side of the case and the other in the drive bay. I'm not going to sacrifice performance for the way my tubing looks though so I'll make it work somehow. Also does the length of tubing between the T-reducers matter? I may want to have them almost touching with just enough ½ tubing between them for a little flexibility but I don't want any weird suction effects or something not allowing flow through the 1/4 portion.

I was going to get the thread sealant and use it if I needed to because it is so cheap, but I don't really think I need it so I may end up just skipping it.

Nice catch on the included barbs, I totally forgot about them. It's nice that Swiftech throws them in for you like that.

Thanks for the tubing tip. I found there are two different types of the B-44, Tygon B-44-4X Food, Milk and Dairy and the Tygon B-44-3 Beverage Tubing. I found the 4X for sale per foot at Sidewinder and it says its non-porus so I'm going with that instead of the PrimoChill.

Here are the updated parts:

½ Tubing: Tygon B-44-4X Food, Milk and Dairy 1/2in. ID 3/4in. OD Laboratory Tubing # AAA00038 (12 feet)
¼ T-Reducer Primochill 1/4" to Dual 1/2" ID UV Reactive Leakproof T Reducer - UV Blue (2)
¼ Compression Fittings: Bitspower Ultimate G 1/4 Thread 1/4" ID x 3/8" OD Compression Fitting - Matte Black (2)
¼ Tubing: Tygon R3603 1/4in. ID 3/8in. OD Laboratory Tubing # AAC00017 (4 feet)
¼ Tube Clamps: Primochill Reusable Hose Clamp [10mm, 3/8" OD] – Black (4)

I also ordered the P6X58D Premium and 930, they should be here tomorrow!

I'm going to wait on getting the Indigo Xtreme until I order the water block. Newegg had some Arctic Cooling MX-2 cheap that I'm going to use with my Mugen-2 till then. They didn't have any MX-3 though which is to bad but no big deal.

I am also thinking about water cooling my 5770 eventually after I get the first set up done. My xfx has a lifetime warranty though, and I have a good chance of screwing something up while installing the block so I'm still undecided. If I did I would use the EK-FC5770 - Black Acetal block if they're still in stock anywhere. The cards fan isn't very loud and never spins up all the way but is at a very annoying frequency.

On a different note, is getting a cheap (<$60) Nvidia 220 for Physx worth it? I know you have to hack the drivers and what not but the performance value is questionable.
 
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Yeah, I think if you want to use the spinner, you'll be fine on performance. You actually have a bit to spare with your set up. The length of tubing between the reducers shouldn't really have much effect.
Read your warranty, you definitely will not be covered by any problems that arise with a waterblock. That said, I have EK waterblocks - acrylic on nickel for my 5870's and they were actually one of the easiest parts to set up (although it tends to be a likely area to leak with rotary compression fittings). The key, I think, is to take the block, and run the hose outside of the computer, and hook up the block without the video card on a towel or something. If it leaks, it's not on any component, and you can tighten up your fittings. Then, you carefully remove the heatsink from the video card and add the block, and you should be good to go. Any accidents will be away from the card and rest of your components.
I have no input on the physx card.
 
Ek Supreme HF is currently the best block on the market according to Vapor's new tests.
 
I have read the EK blocks instructions and am mostly worried about short circuiting the board by installing it wrong. There is one step that says "Temporarily remove the water blocks to check for uniform surface contact between the block and the components. Note the pattern of contact on a piece of paper. Then repeat substeps 5 and 8 to reattach the block applying more or less pressure to the areas where you have found it necessary."

I have not seen this step on other blocks instructions and was wondering if it was really necessary because it seams like quite a headache to basically install the card twice. Also, I don't get how I am suppose to note the contact pattern I cant see underneath the block. I also caught this in the warranty section "This warranty is voided if the product comes in contact with aggressive UV additives". Does that mean that my coolant will weaken the block's plastic over time or will it just stain it if you have the clear version?

Also, what is up with the spacers for the copper side? Are those threads shorter?

Shiny, what does the nickel plating do? I always thought that copper without any plating transfered heat the best.

Back to the Indigo Xtreme, do you think they will make more models for GPU's eventually? There are so many different chips that I think the company should just make different sized squares and then having enthusiasts measure their GPU's and post back online what works. I think you would still have to use non-conductive paste for the voltage regulators though.
 
The reason they want you to put on the block twice is to make sure you get uniform spread of the thermal. You know, you can really skip that for the most part. What I do is put on the thermal nice and even, and if the temps are good, I'm good with it. If my gpu temps aren't as good as I like, I take off the block again and reapply. There's not really a risk of short circuiting the board by installing it as long as you take your time.
Some type of additives are corrosive. Primochill isn't corrosive to the best of my knowledge. I think they specifically market as safe for all plastics.
The surface of the video card isn't the same level at all places, especially at the parts that get cooled. The spaces are set at a height to equal the other components for when the block is on.
Nickel plating is for looks. Copper does a better job transferring heat, but the thin nickel doesn't take anything away from the function at that thickness. I just like the look better.
I think Indigo Xtreme is specialized towards their specific thing. I don't think you can expect them to move onto gpu's in the near future.
Voltage regulators use a type of thermal tape and not actual conductive tape.
 
Okay I get it now. When I said spacers I meant the rings they show being put on your fittings before you screw them in to the board so that the threads don't go in as deep, but I get what you were saying about the thermal pads.

Well I'm less apprehensive about WC the 5770 now I'm still going to wait till after I get the rest of the loop set up before buying the block in the interest of limiting the complexity and the fact that I'll be a little tight for cash right after the main build. This will be my first water cooling set up after all so I figure taking it a little slower is best.

When I add the block it should go right after the CPU?

Pump>CPU>GPU>Rad>Front Panel>Res
 
Yes. It doesn't make a huge difference with the speed at which the water flows, but it's better to have the coolest possible water hitting the cpu block. Looking foward to seing your builld, send up some pics when you have it done.
 
I have everything running pretty decently now. The only major snag I hit was my Mugen 2 will not work with the P6X58D because you have to replace the stock back-plate with a new one and the P6X58D's back-plate is screwed and glued to the PCB. I'm stuck with the stock cooler until I get a new one but I don't have any ideas and don't really want to spend 50+ on something I'll use for a few months so might just stick with the stock one. Can't OC though...

I'm also a little disappointed in my Raid 0 array, I though it would be faster and it seems to be the bottleneck of the system. Come one SSD's get cheap!

Also I had a rough time getting windows to recognize the array even though I had the driver but it turns out that the array wasn't the first boot device, switched it and it worked fine. Ubuntu didn't install Grub at all so my dual boot plans are on hold until I figure out whats up with the MBR but am to busy gaming and building my brothers hand me down computer to get to it right now.

The i7 sure is beastly, I've only seen all cores running at 100 when transcoding in handbrake. Can't wait to see what it does with an overclock.

I need to order some more black vinyl dye to finish painting my fan leads, then sleeve them, finish the front panels and stealth my optical drive but here are a some preliminary pics. You can see that I have the stock optical drive face plate off, I'm working on getting something to push the eject button but I have the matching face plate from the case modded and ready to go.
 
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