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Need Help Overclocking Q6600

K

Kusanhagi

Weaksauce
Joined
Apr 8, 2006
Messages
115
I have spent some time looking into overclocking my Q6600 to get the most life out of it. I know I want to push it to 3.0GHz on air cooling, (specs below) but I don't feel comfortable doing this without the direct input of the [H]ard community. My Grandfather always told me to utilize those who know far more than me so I won't waste good money.

I have looked at videos and read articles but still am not sure exactly what to set on my bios, so any help would be appreciated. General instructions would be of no help because I really am looking for help with my BIOS specific settings. So thanks in advance.

That said here are my specs;

Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield @ 2.40GHz
ASUS P5Q Pro (Bios Version 2102)
4GB RAM - 2 Pair of 2GB Dual Channel Kits - Corsair CM2X1024-6400C4 (Memory Frequency 400.0 MHz (2:3)/CAS# latency (CL) 5.0)

If anyone needs more info just let me know.
 
I use mainly AMD but Intel cpus will be similar. On AMD cpus you set the front side bus x multiplier = clock speed. On the black edition cpu's you dont even have to goof with the FSB you can just up the multi but Intel doesn't have many unlocked cpu's so thats not going to be a concern for you. Find the frequency control and multi then goof around inching them higher until you cant anymore and then run stability tests lowering as you go until you get it stable. Prime 95 + CPUID hardware monitor + CPUZ

BTW overclocking is overclocking. Don't be scared of it. Just get in there and tweak
 
imho people should be.
Its np to permanently brake something in 5 sec by changing one wrong setting.

And i know what you mean nimajneb5000 the AMD black box cpus are 100% unlocked .
The hole Intel core line of cpus are 50% unlocked in the sense you can lower your multiplier but you can't raise it past whatever the max is on the cpu.In this case it be 9x for the Q6600.
As for the multi vs fsb its all ways better to bring the fsb up as high as possible and the multi a low as possible and if and when possible to sink the ram speed with the fsb

the Kentsfield core peeks at like 3000mgz in the white paper books .you could probably get tops 3500mgz or something but not with basic air cooling.

btw Kentsfield =
Maximum operating temperature 60.3°C
Maximum V core 0.85 - 1.5v

as well forgot to ask Kusanhagi whats your over all thermal numbers atm at stock speed under full load after 15 min ?
 
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there's already a ton of info littered around the net on 'asus p5q pro q6600 overclocking' via google. if you haven't done much of this already, it can be a little daunting.

almost all q6600's will do 3Ghz at or near stock voltage regardless of chip revision. having said that the newer G0 chip will clock higher than the older B3 chip with less volts and heat. knowing which chip you have is a good start (cpu-z will display your cpu's revision).

next you'll need monitoring, benchmarking & stress testing programs. would also help if you have a house thermometer for ambient temperatures. this will put all your core, north bridge, south bridge, motherboards temps, etc into context. obviously you'll be able to oc your chip higher if you live near the polar regions than if you live on the equator.

Monitoring Applications;
CPUZ - a must-have tool for basic CPU, MB, MEM & Graphics information
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html​

CoreTemp - provides cpu temps and some other useful features (logging, overheat protection). can also use Realtemp, essentially provides same info, slightly different layout
http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/
http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/​

Everest - is a all-round program. gives you a ton on system information, temperature monitoring, voltage monitoring, fan monitoring. benchmarking. one could almost get away with this program alone for your oc'ing needs.
Note :the company has recently been bought out and the software rebadged at AIDA64. haven't used this so i can't tell you if they've changed the program much. probably still find the last version of everest (5.5) floating around the net though.
http://www.lavalys.com/​

Benchmarking Applications;
SuperPI (HyperPI) - widely used benchmarking program. does a very quick bench though can be used for some stability testing with larger data sets
http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/366/super_pi_mod_v1.5.html
http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showthread.php?t=176904​

Futuremark PCMark Vantage - another good bench app for system
http://www.futuremark.com/benchmarks/pcmarkvantage/introduction/​

SiSoftware Sandra - widely used synthetic benchmark app.
http://www.sisoftware.net/?d=&f=downandbuy&l=en&a=​

Stress Testing Applications;

Prime95 - the defacto stress testing program. out of 3 tests, you only need to worry about the 'In place large FFT's'. generally 1 hour for a quick test of stability. 8 to 24hrs when settling on permanent clock.
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/​

IntelBurn Test - heavy duty stress testing program. will attempt to turn your cpu into slag.
http://downloads.guru3d.com/IntelBurnTest-v2.3-download-2047.html​

OCCT - another good stress tester. if cpu can pass all three stress testing apps, your system is definitely stable.
http://www.ocbase.com/perestroika_en/index.php?Download​

i recommend you install all of the programs above before attempting to oc your q6600. at the start you should benchmark your rig at stock settings to see where your system performs and the actual temps and voltages (idle & load) it generates. this will be your baseline. there is a 'Bios Setup Template' in the 1st post of the thread below. dump it into excel or open office speadsheet and print it out.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=179580

not all of the settings will match your asus board exactly though it will be close. the template is for my MB model (x38, the options for your p45 should be almost the same). you'll need to go into your bios to correct for your version of the template. for the 2nd and subsequent columns of your speadsheet, put the date/time/run at the top.
as an addition to the bottom of template (below bios settings), put in core temps, chipset temps, benchmark scores, stress testing results, etc. the first data results should be your stock settings.

once you've got your baseline benches, temps (don't forget to note the ambient temps during each run) & voltages, you can start to oc.

you should only make 1 or 2 changes per run. your first few changes should be easy, just increase the FSB. you should be able to jump to 300 or 333 (2700MHz / 3000MHz at 9 multiplier) without increasing any voltages.

make sure to lock your RAM:FSB divisor so your RAM is running at or below its default speed, in your case DDR800 or lower. your RAM timings you can either leave at SPD defaults (auto) or set them manually from the spec sheet off corsairs website.

as you increase your speed, you'll need to increase the volts to;
'CPU vcore',
'CPU PLL voltage',
'North Bridge', and
'FSB Termination voltage'

there are some other bios settings you may consider disabling before beginning you oc'ing like the power management and advanced CPU features (C1E support, CPU TM function, Vanderpool, Execute Disable Bit). i left most of the power management and other cpu features enabled on mine as i wanted my chip to slow down when idle. however if you choose to do this, it may inhibit your attempts,

another bios option you should be aware of is 'Loadline Calibration'. this prevents vdroop of the CPU voltage under load. not a big deal if light to moderate oc'ing though once you start venturing into the 3GHz + range, this option will probably need to be enabled.

watch your temps and voltages. the q6600 G0 doesn't like going above 70C, the B3's even less at around 60C. you'll need to google safe temps & voltages for your P45's chipset (NB & SB) though i image anything 50C or above probably isn't good. also make sure you have adequate airflow around the socket, specifically the VRMs.

most importantly, take your time unless you don't mind turning your board and everything on it into a smouldering lump of plastic and glass. i can't provide you with all the correct settings to turn your pc into a oc champ as everyone's gear is a little different. if you use the methodology and software responsibly your rig should be able provide plenty of performance till your next update.

i can't be held responsible if shit goes sideways during your adventure. if i've overlooked something or if i'm just plain wrong, hopefully the other forum members will pick up on it because at the moment i'm knackered and seeing double.
good luck.
 
^Great post.

I managed to get mine to 3Ghz with a tuniq tower. Just take it easy, go up in steps and you won't damage anything permanently.
 
My current cooling is a Zalman CNPS9700.

My average temp under load @ 2.4GHz is 41 to 42 degrees.

I want to hit 3.0GHz stable. I'm just hoping someone has overclocked this bios/cpu combo and can give me sound numbers to try.
 
Kusanhagi;
I'm just hoping someone has overclocked this bios/cpu combo and can give me sound numbers to try
Click to expand...

there are no 'magic' settings that you can pug into your bios that'll work 100%. each board and processor is different. having said that there are a few bios settings that you can modify that are fairly universal in assisting oc'ing. everything else like voltage, timings, freqs etc you discover through trial and error.


FSB Strap to North Bridge : options here (i think are 233/266/333/400). this is linked to 'DRAM Frequency'. you set it at a strap that keeps your DRAM Freq below your RAM. in your case DDR800.​

DRAM Frequency: keep at or below your RAM freq (DDR800 or below).​

DRAM Timing Control: either leave at 'Auto' or input the 5 basic values (example 5,5,5,15, command 2). look to corsairs spec sheet for yours.​

CPU Voltage (vcore) : don't go above 1.5volts (actual). as you are using a zalman cooler, anything above 1.4volts (actual) probably won't wash unless you have aggressive cooling like a massive tower cooling / water cooling or really low ambient temps​

CPU PLL Voltage : leave at auto. may need to increase if going for high oc. since you're using a air, probably won't need to touch this.​

North Bridge Voltage : your board is a little different than mine. trial & error / google here. you won't need to touch this until you go past 300FSB. if you have all 4 DIMMs populated, this may need to be increased sooner​

DRAM Voltage :since you aren't oc'ing memory, leave at what corsair recommends (1.8 to 2.2). asus boards generally undervolt this. you'll need to check monitoring program to see what 'Auto' or stock voltage is and then increase in bios as necessary.​

FSB Termination Voltage : again your board is different than mine, rial & error / google here. will probably need to be increased at higher FSB's (300-333+) are reached.​

South Bridge Voltage : no need to touch this, leave at 'Auto'​

Loadline Calibration : enable if vdroop is becoming an issue during stress testing. again you'll need monitoring program to check this. example: vcore set to 1.35v, during stress test vcore dropping to 1.30v and prime95 fails soon after. this is an scenario where enabling LLC would help stabilised your clock.​

CPU Spread Spectrum : disable this, will hamper oc. there are some cased where you should leave this enabled. google why if interested.​

i've touched on the main options you'll be messing with (except Advanced CPU and power management features, see my first post for info).

i can't overstate the importance of the monitoring programs which i've gone into at length in my original post. without these you're entering this blind. having core temp and everest (window 7 & vista have gadget/sidebar support) open at all times is important, especially during oc'ing.

i have everest open most of the time but coretemp is flagged to run at startup. coretemp is set to put my system to sleep if cpu gets too hot. this is especially important in my case if my water cooling pump fails. fans i don't worry about too much as there are 6 on my radiator. though intel chips will shutdown before getting too hot, i'd prefer mine to shut down earlier (or in my case 'sleep' the system).

you can do this half arsed by plugging in values lifted from the net, though i suggest you don't. some of the information may be accurate, other info bullshit. none account for the variables your individual equipment together may pose.
 
If this is a GO stepping processor this should be fairly easy set your FSB to 333 and boot, your cpu should be able to handle this at stock voltage. Anything above this is a crap shoot, but most GO stepping CPUs are able to make it to 3.6-3.8 mine is currently running at 3.6 in a 780i SLI Board @ 1.55v
 
Enigma;
but most GO stepping CPUs are able to make it to 3.6-3.8 mine is currently running at 3.6 in a 780i SLI Board @ 1.55v
Click to expand...

i'm curious that's a lot of volts going thru your q6600. is 1.55v the amout set in the bios or the actual voltage displayed in cpuz. do you encounter much vdroop? what kind of temps do you get across cores during load?
 
as you increase your speed, you'll need to increase the volts to;
'CPU vcore',
'CPU PLL voltage',
'North Bridge', and
'FSB Termination voltage'
Click to expand...

FSB Termination Voltage & FSB Termination voltage can kill your cpu in 2 sec .
And you only need it if your trying to get ever last mgz {FSB wise} out of your system that imho isn't worth the risk and is really a last resort option if your willing to go all in and don't care if your cpu dies.:p

And watch the temps on your northbridge chip-set if you start pushing the volts & fsb speed.
And my self i would add a fan to this part of the world.
scythe_quiet_40mm_fan.jpg


thermal death land for your cpu btw is 60c
 
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agreed War Zone, care must be taken during oc'ing though i've tried to express this concern throughout my post(s).

regarding War Zone's concerns with 'FSB Termination Voltage', 'North Bridge' & thermal limits of CPU, i've already touched on this in earlier posts;

aphasia;
watch your temps and voltages. the q6600 G0 doesn't like going above 70C, the B3's even less at around 60C. you'll need to google safe temps & voltages for your P45's chipset (NB & SB) though i image anything 50C or above probably isn't good. also make sure you have adequate airflow around the socket, specifically the VRMs.
Click to expand...
aphasia;
FSB Termination Voltage : again your board is different than mine, rial & error / google here. will probably need to be increased at higher FSB's (300-333+) are reached.
Click to expand...
FSB Termination Voltage probably should be one of the last settings you adjust like War Zone suggested. having said that Kentsfield 65nm processors are more resilient to FSB VTT than the later Q9xxx 45nm chips are. anything above 1.4 on a Q9xxx 45nm part isn't advised. my FSB VTT has been safely sitting btw 1.4 & 1.5 for years.
 
Tjunction max for the Q6600 is 100c. The Q6600 will start to throttle at 90c and ultimately shut itself off at around 95c before reaching Tjmax temp. There is no way to accurately read Tcase temps as they are die temps, though Intel reports a Tcase max temp of 71c.

I've had my Q6600 up in the 80's @ 3.8Ghz with 1.55v pumping through it with no ill effects. So long as your board and PSU are providing good, clean voltage and you have a good overclocker I wouldn't worry about temps. It's a good idea to keep load temps below 70c though. The only way to kill a Q6600 is with voltage.
 
aphasia\HydroBudz: agreed *nods*

i just don't like steering would be newcomers to the overclock topic down a road that could brake something .
Seems like their too meny out thier sometimes that are like whatever just go for it its all good .
im not like that with new comers to the topic.

Its why i all ways advise caution to new comers on the pimp your computer topic and as we all know overclockers love lower temps seeing as the lower the temp the more stable a cpu is when you start getting near the limits of what it can do.

I remember this AMD k62 500@550mgz i use to have and at 40c load it was stable at 45c is wasn't.
Use to get on my nerves cus id be cleaning the air cooled heat sink right left and center all the time and if the ambient temp went up like +5c it mess everything up. :D
 
Well I've taken the plunge. Here is a rundown.


I switched the following settings, results below...

SpeedStep [Disabled]
C1E [Disabled]
Loadline Calibration [Disabled]

FSB [333]
CPU Ratio [9]
CPU VCore [1.35000]

Didn't change ram settings from auto. Seems ok.
Results are a stable 3.0GHz.
Temps on the first core max right now at 58 degrees under normal load.
The other cores are 5 to 10 degrees cooler.
Ran stable overnight running running Prime95.

Everything looks good. Can't thank you guys enough.
 
Nice to see you have a good starting OC :)

1.35v is a lot for just 333*9 = 3000mhz
For reference, my G0 will do 3.4v on 1.30v, and 3.8 on 1.44v. I would leave the voltage where it is at and inch towards 377-400mhz on your FSB (will give you 3.4-3.6ghz). Once you get to a number high enough for your liking, start backing the voltage down by 2 stops until you get errors in P95 - then bump it back up one or two stops and re-test.

On my P5E Deluxe board I needed to bump the NB voltage by 2 stops (forgot the acutal number) to get it stable at 3.8ghz.

As for memory, I would probably leave it on auto until you get to your CPU OC goal, then put in the rated specs and see if it is stable in memtest.
 
Kusanhagi, good to see you've reached your goal of 3GHz on air with you're Q6600. if you've reached this with only having to change...

Kusanhagi;
SpeedStep [Disabled]
C1E [Disabled]
Loadline Calibration [Disabled]

FSB [333]
CPU Ratio [9]
CPU VCore [1.35000]
Click to expand...
with these settings, great.

if you are happy with the clock, leave as is. if you're feeling adventurous you could push for more. if you do, probably need to upgrade you heatsink & cooler.

investinwaffles;
1.35v is a lot for just 333*9 = 3000mhz
Click to expand...
in most cases i'd agree with investinwaffles but there are a couple of exceptions.
1. Kusanhagi's Q6600 could be an older chip revision (B3)
2. regardless of revision, his chip could just have a high VID

as an explanation for Kusanhagi, the VID (voltage ID) is what intel specifies as the minimum voltage to reach the CPU's advertised clock speed - stably. intel probably pads this a little for margin or error. the VID value can be found in CoreTemp.

for Q6600 chips, the VID can be as low as 1.2xx volts to 1.325.
it could be that Kusanhagi's chip came with a high VID, thus his 1.35vcore to reach 3GHz isn't that bad. having said that, the vcore could be reduced if other MB settings are tweaked (like NB voltage or enabling LLC).

in any case, enjoy the extra grunt out of this great (albeit aging) chip.
 
My original goal was to build a SandyBridge system, and keep using my Radeon 5770 video card for another year.

With the problems intel had I decided to overclock this chip and spend a little money on a GTX 570 for my gaming. With the overclock I can get great performance out of the GTX 570, for Call of Duty and World of Warcraft, and wait for the cpu market to settle a little.

I would mess around with the vcore, but I read enough people who used my board's posts and questions on the net to figure the most post about the subject used that voltage with some stability. Like i said, 3.0GHz will hold me till I get a new Mobo and cpu/ram.

I would like to move to water cooling but I hear so many people (albeit people who don't water cool) scare me with warnings of leaks and evil corrosion.

God I would love to water cool and get closer to a completely silent system.
 
Oh and my cpu is a G0, so I am sure tweaking the voltage would be good, but unless I see heat or stability issues I don't want to rock the boat.
 
Played World of Warcraft and Call of Duty: Black Ops for 5 hours just now, cpu temps never passed 59 degrees.
 
ah water cooling.

there are risks certainly but providing you haven't had a lobotomy recently, it really is nothing to stress about.

if you know how to tighten a clamp and test a WC loop outside your case (for 24hrs), not an issue. there are plenty of kits out there that reduce the learning curve. some are really dumbed down 'plug & play' kits, though many are little better than decent air cooling. in those cases i don't see the point. recommend swiftech kits like this one
http://www.swiftnets.com/products/H20-220-ULTIMA-XT.asp

you get a good base (pump: probably the best on the market, cpu water block & radiator that's very decent) that allows you to expand later on if you get the itch.

regarding corrosion (within the loop), not an issue with swiftech kits. in fact it's almost impossible to build a custom job with parts that will corrode. corrosion is only an issue when mixing aluminium and copper parts. Aluminium WC parts are just hard to find (no one uses them).

hate to burst your bubble, WC loops aren't silent, in fact they probably add more fans to your system. however you can still build a very quiet loop with the right fans and a radiator with low FPI (fins per inch).

if you're serious about WC, you've got a fair bit of reading to do (this forum is a good start, also a couple of links below -starter guides). also unless you want to do a bit of modding, you'll need a good case too.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/739413-water-cooling-components-guide.html
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=596949
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331
 
I have a CoolerMaster Cosmos 1000. So i have the hose exit grommits built right into the case. I am thinking I would take off the top fin assembly and find a radiator that fits right into that recess on the top.

I'll read that stuff. Thanks for the links.
 
i have the coolermaster v6 cooler to oc my q6600 to 3.6 gig. idles at 40 with a load at low to mid 70's

i have the asus p5n-d to oc it with
voltage is at for vcore is 1.475
you have to do the pencil mod to make it stable at that oc. so the vdroop isnt soo bad. dont remember the website but just google pencil mod on the mb i mentioned. no need to water cool it if you can get the temps down to where im at or lower.
 
canmanone said:
i have the coolermaster v6 cooler to oc my q6600 to 3.6 gig. idles at 40 with a load at low to mid 70's

i have the asus p5n-d to oc it with
voltage is at for vcore is 1.475
you have to do the pencil mod to make it stable at that oc. so the vdroop isnt soo bad. dont remember the website but just google pencil mod on the mb i mentioned. no need to water cool it if you can get the temps down to where im at or lower.
Click to expand...

canmanone that's a fair amount of juice you're putting thru that chip. did you try and dropping the vcore after your pencil mod? before enabling LLC (loadline calibration) on my board, my vcore was 1.45. after turning on LLC to prevent vdroop, i was able to drop my vcore to 1.40. i'd understand that amount of vcore of 1.475 if you have a chip with a higher VID rating though.
 
I had the same setup as you and I didn't realize how long I had it.

I ran mine at 3Ghz, 24/7 from Oct 2008 till I sold it 3 months ago. I used an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro Cooler on the cpu.

I forgot that I was running XP when I built the machine.
q6600.jpg


And CPU-z from back then,
cpu-z.jpg
 
aphasia said:
canmanone that's a fair amount of juice you're putting thru that chip. did you try and dropping the vcore after your pencil mod? before enabling LLC (loadline calibration) on my board, my vcore was 1.45. after turning on LLC to prevent vdroop, i was able to drop my vcore to 1.40. i'd understand that amount of vcore of 1.475 if you have a chip with a higher VID rating though.
Click to expand...



hey aphasia i had it down to 1.4 but it wont pass any stress test. then raised to 1.45 still failed stress test. but when i raised it to 1.475 it passed all test and ran for 8 hrs. the max on the vid core of that chip is 1.5 so im under the max core. without pencil mod my vdroop was too big and it was unstable even with 1.475 vcore. with the mod stable at that voltage. testing with intel burn test. that test will stress that cpu like no tomorrow. even better than prive 95. so if you really want stability test wiht intel burn test it will let you know if its passable or not. just remember that test is nothing like what you do on a day to day basis your computer. as for the llc where in the bios is it located?
 
canmanone said:
hey aphasia i had it down to 1.4 but it wont pass any stress test. then raised to 1.45 still failed stress test. but when i raised it to 1.475 it passed all test and ran for 8 hrs. the max on the vid core of that chip is 1.5 so im under the max core. without pencil mod my vdroop was too big and it was unstable even with 1.475 vcore. with the mod stable at that voltage. testing with intel burn test. that test will stress that cpu like no tomorrow. even better than prive 95. so if you really want stability test wiht intel burn test it will let you know if its passable or not. just remember that test is nothing like what you do on a day to day basis your computer. as for the llc where in the bios is it located?
Click to expand...

not all asus boards have the option. Loadline Calibration is located in the same menu where your frequency & voltage options are (i think its above vcore & below RAM timings from memory).
 
gonz0 said:
I hate to point you to another forum here, but this is what I read and fully understood before I started OC'ing.

Very Informative and a must read for any C2Q Beggingin OC'er.

http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/198072-howto-overclock-c2q-quads-c2d-duals.html
Click to expand...

nice linkage. wish i'd seen that guide a few years ago when i first started oc'ing my q6600. follows a very methodical and time consuming approach. i use a lot of the methods this guys sets out (dumping data in speedsheet/print-off, only make one change at a time). the how-to is certainly more complete than the advice i offered in my first 2 posts of this thread.

i think one of the most confusing aspect about oc'ing for those new to it is the interchangeablity of bios terminology. the various adaptations of bios' by MB makers doesn't make it any better either. like VID, vcore, cpu voltage, cpu pll voltage etc. not all of which mean the same thing.

well worth the read, cheers.
 
Kusanhagi said:
God I would love to water cool and get closer to a completely silent system.
Click to expand...
:D
Rest
v6t9hd.jpg
bw_waterbock.jpg


Full load both cores 10 min run {doesn't really change in any case}
13zzf36.jpg
2eq9icx.jpg


btw cheers aphasia! and welcome to the guild.
Ps depending on how much ram your packing you should disabled your page file in a 32bit os as well ddr2 voltage is 1.8 with out ram sinks beware of using more.
I still don't like your temp numbers and i don't know why anyone would want to test just how high they can go on the temp\cpu topic .
Just go spend $35 or something on a decent air cooler or go case fan crazy if you want to save a buck.i like makeing holes my self in cases right over the air cooler and sticking riping fast fans aimed right at the cpu cooler .its a grate ghetto Mod that gets the job done for cheap.you just have to clean your heat sink a lot after that as dust packs in their all the time.

canmanone: without pencil mod
Click to expand...
We one upping the diff setting here or something and moving on to pin mods ? did a golden bridge mod on a k7 cpu once that didn't work out .god that's hell freaking things are so small one mistake and its all over.better to pin mod.

aphasia: i think one of the most confusing aspect about oc'ing for those new to it is the interchangeablity of bios terminology. The various adaptations of bios' by MB makers doesn't make it any better either. like VID, vcore, cpu voltage, cpu pll voltage etc. not all of which mean the same thing.
Click to expand...
Agreed . ;)
Freaking little china men like inventing words all the time and it forces end users to read up and try and decrypt wtf their trying to say lol cus its not english and really sometimes your guess is as good as mine with out doing internet research on the topic.
 
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I've read the water cooling, and think I will stick with my current Zalman air cooler till I buy the new CPU/Board in the fall/winter. 3.0GHz is going really well and should work well when I buy my GTX570 later this month. Great info in this thread, glad I created it.
 
Water cooling not really a problem kusanhagi . As a rule of the thumb just stay away from anything that's see thru.

Problem is most people want their water cooling to look cool and are willing to sacrifice functionality for looks .I don't have that problem my self but it seems most case moders and water cooling people do.
For the record my water block\cooling kit is one of the first full sized kits ever sold and the water block {plastic} is cracked in like 6 places.
Fixed it with hot glue of all things .Grate stuff & its amazing what you can fix with it.

If you don't want problems then only get a water block that's 100% copper or copper\brass combo with a rad that 100% copper at the same time .Don't mix metal types unless their in the same family of metals.
As well a external car rad with inner copper pipeline works as well if you want to go uber huge on the cheap.

As well you could open up the water block and add this to were the gasket is to make 100% shore theirs no leeks over time .O rings dry out given time.
And use Teflon tape if and were needed.
DisplayImage.asp


Then lose the cheap $0.02 foot garbage pipeline and use 3\4 braided rubber pipe

Air-Rubber-Hose-1152-.jpg


It wont leak and wont crack anymore ever.Anyways i know my next water cooling setup is going to be that .once you've seen what water cooling can do you can't ever go back to air .
Air cooling = suxorz :p
 
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