Mostly complete setup

[StellaTerra]

I've picked out my pump, radiator and waterblock for my first WC build and got them all from the FS section of this site. I'm ready to get the rest of the stuff and I've got a couple of questions.

I want to get a pair of low noise (<30 dBA, preferably even quieter) fans to go on the reservoir. I looked around and I like the Yate Loon D12SL-12 fans, but I can't figure out how to get power to them. I heard there was a trick for lowering the voltage, but I'm not sure how and I can't seem to find a howto or youtube video on how that actually happens. I could also use a rheostat, but I have no idea how to go about buying one given that they have electrical limitations that I don't understand. What sounded ideal to me was the 4-pin fan connectors with PWM (whatever that is) that have the ability to be controlled automatically by the software (can speedfan or some other freely available app do that?) I was wondering if anyone has ever done such a thing, or if this is a ridiculous waste of money (they look more expensive from what I can see.) Also, it doesn't look like any of those Yate Loons come with the 4-pin connector, so, recommendations?

It looks like there are a number of tubing material options available, how do I choose between them? I'm using 1/2" fittings, so does that mean I want 1/2" OD tubing, or 1/2" ID tubing? How thick should the walls be?

Do I need clamps?

I've got more questions, but I suppose this is a good start. Thanks all in advance.

 

[DJS2]

I want to get a pair of low noise (<30 dBA, preferably even quieter) fans to go on the reservoir. I looked around and I like the Yate Loon D12SL-12 fans, but I can't figure out how to get power to them.

They have the 4pin and 3pin (mobo) connectors attached to them. Feel free to use either one. If you want you can use a fan controller, should be a decently cheap solution.

I have 4 yate loons (2 on my rad, 2 for my case) with a zalman fan controller and it works just fine. When the fans are at full speed they are quiet. When the fans are at lowest speed they are really quiet.

It looks like there are a number of tubing material options available, how do I choose between them? I'm using 1/2" fittings, so does that mean I want 1/2" OD tubing, or 1/2" ID tubing? How thick should the walls be?

ya or you could do something like 7/16" ID tubing and use 1/2" fittings.

Do I need clamps?

you dont need them but I would recommend them. you can get 5-10 of them for <$5. why not? If it's a tight fit between the tubing and fitting you are most likely completely fine though.

 

[StellaTerra]

They have the 4pin and 3pin (mobo) connectors attached to them. Feel free to use either one. If you want you can use a fan controller, should be a decently cheap solution.

Hmm, either I'm confused or you are. I'm fairly certain the Yate Loons don't have a 4-pin fan connector on them. They have 3-pin fan and 4-pin molex, but not the 4-pin fan connector that allows for automatic software control. At least, that's as far as I can tell from the pictures I've seen on the internet and this website:
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SL-12-pr-3009.html
Or do you have a different sort of fan that actually has the 4-pin fan connector?
BTW, what's the open/closed corner deal about?

ya or you could do something like 7/16" ID tubing and use 1/2" fittings.

When you say "ya" do you mean that I could do either? Or perhaps that I should do the second option (1/2" inner diameter) or the first (1/2" outer diameter)?


Thank you for responding!

Unrelated question that I remembered an hour ago:
What is everyone's thoughts on water additives? Can I just use anti-freeze and a bit of dye, should I use a commercial additive or should I get an entire commercial liquid water replacement?

Thank you.

 

[Arcygenical]

Yates have a 3pin and a molex connector. I'm Fairly sure DJ meant 4 pin to be Molex. Use a fan controller, such as the Sunbeam Rheobus (can control about 10 yates!), to control speed. Not all motherboards support fan control via PWM either, so relying on the PWM (4pin fan) connector isn't the best idea...

Here's the controller. Each Knob can control about 3 yate loons connected in parallel... That's about 12 fans total. A good deal for 12$

About tubing diameter:

You want to use tubing, with an ID, as close to the OD of the fitting. Use 1/2" ID tubing for 1/2" OD barbs and fittings. However, you can also use tubing with an ID SLIGHTLY smaller than the OD of the fitting... Like the 7/16" masterkleer.

7/16" is just a bit smaller than 1/2" and it can easily be placed on 1/2" barbs for a tighter fit. You dip the ends of the tube into boiling water to soften them, then force them on the barbs. When they cool, they lock on. Very secure, but use fittings too.

And the best additive IMO, is the primochill liquid utopia, mixed as directed (and even then re-mixed with 1:1 distilled water again).

 

[StellaTerra]

Yates have a 3pin and a molex connector. I'm Fairly sure DJ meant 4 pin to be Molex. Use a fan controller, such as the Sunbeam Rheobus (can control about 10 yates!), to control speed. Not all motherboards support fan control via PWM either, so relying on the PWM (4pin fan) connector isn't the best idea...

Here's the controller. Each Knob can control about 3 yate loons connected in parallel... That's about 12 fans total. A good deal for 12$

I don't think I need anything like that, though. There will only be two fans, so that would be overkill, plus I don't really want a rheostat in the case. The entire unit will be outside the case proper, so I was really thinking of just using the cable voltage mod, and then I noticed this:
http://jab-tech.com/12v-to-9v-Cable-pr-2040.html
I think I'll just go with that.

And the best additive IMO, is the primochill liquid utopia, mixed as directed (and even then re-mixed with 1:1 distilled water again).

Ok, I think I'll go with this. I'm a little curious, though: why do you put your faith in this product? How is it superior?

Thanks a ton!

 

[Arcygenical]

Ok, I think I'll go with this. I'm a little curious, though: why do you put your faith in this product? How is it superior?

Well, for starters it contains a very good, long-life dye, good Anti corrosives and comes in at a good price. Your best bet before was a bottle of pentosin and some Dtek Dye, but it was quite hard to get *exactly* the colour you wanted with this combination.

It's mainly for ease of use, but the colours of the Liquid utopia are downright gorgeous. You can mix it at half strength and it's still a great colour.

Good call on the fan resistor. It'll work fine with the yates you selected in your newest thread.

 

[CaptainSoble]

You could always use colored tubing as well. I think it looks nice any way. You can also use VW coolant like this and just mix with distilled water. It's red though so not sure what color you want. Petras tech shop sells it in smaller bottles.

http://www.amazon.com/Volkswagen-Coolant-Anti-Freeze-Liter-Bottle/dp/B001AQATWM/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/186-2322065-2199304?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1227481943&sr=8-2

That's One liter so should last you a very long time. And the shelf life of antifreeze is a good 5 years, lol.

 

[StellaTerra]

At this point I think I'm just going to ditch color entirely, get a bottle of PTNuke for $4 and use distilled water. It doesn't really need color, I suppose, and everything in the loop is copper... I think. I hope this works. >_>

 

[CaptainSoble]

Yah, color isn't necessary, but the anti freeze is a corrosion inhibitor. As long as it's dilluted well it won't hurt temps. Check this thread out, a lot of very useful information there.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/409578-glycol-anitfreeze-coloring.html#post4873883

Check out post #4, that ira-k guy really has a nice pdf guide.