modding an 18 watt laing

Chris_B

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
May 29, 2001
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Is it possible to mod this down to 5 volts just by switching the yelloow nad black wires around on the molex? At the minute im getting a lot of frothing in my drivebay res and the pump is puting out a constant hissing kind of a sound (assuming becuase of the froth in the res). been told to try and get it to run at a lower speed to try and get rid of the froth which should get rid of the hissing.

Checked all the conections and theyre fine, nothing overly tight or in anyway loose. Can only assume thats whats causing the sound.
 
I assume that the pump would start up at 5v without too much of an issue... So, yes, you could probably slow it down to 5v by moving the yellow wire to where the red wire would be.
 
maybe better idea is to use some fan controller before you mod it.. control the speed and see if problem dissapears first...
and yes - it will run on 7v.
 
maybe better idea is to use some fan controller before you mod it.. control the speed and see if problem dissapears first...
and yes - it will run on 7v.

I don't know of any fan controller rated to hold a DC watercooling pump on a single channel. Period. That's just a quick way to kill otherwise perfectly good rheostats...
 
I don't know of any fan controller rated to hold a DC watercooling pump on a single channel. Period. That's just a quick way to kill otherwise perfectly good rheostats...

Sunbeam tech rheobus has a maximum wattage of 20w per channel.

But, OP: just turn your computer off overnight, and all the froth will turn into a few big bubbles, which you can carefully maneuver and replace with more coolant.
 
Sunbeam also has an even higher rated model, the "Extreme" (Jab-tech) - 30w/channel (6 channels). Also available in silver. [edit] The Sunbeam product page (not that it really gives you any more info than Jab-tech's page)...[/edit]

But if the bubbles/frothing is the only reason you are getting a controller, you're wasting your time. As others said, just turn the system off (power cycle the pump) and eventually you should be able to bleed the lines free of air. You may need to rotate some stuff to get the harder parts out, like in the rad perhaps, but it's better than spending $20-30+ that you may not need to.
 
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