The case I ordered from dealsonic for my next project has just arrived, and I have all of my plans laid out already. After painting the case the color that I want, I want to paint this logo, in white, on the back panel, and two of the drive bays, but I'm not really sure what the best way to do it would be. I'm using this guide to paint the case, and I'll most likely be using Rustoleum gloss enamel. Where would I incorporate painting the logo in that guide? I'd greatly appreciate any advice - I'd really like to get working on this thing.
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Logo painting...
- Thread starter HitMan-sC
- Start date
Take it to a pinstriper. He'll do it for $40 and it'll save you some time and will look 10000 times nicer. 
or just draw up your design, cut it out, mask things off.....paint a few coats........then clear over it so the coats blend in. If you use spray paint it probably won't matter. Might bleed a bit though.
or just draw up your design, cut it out, mask things off.....paint a few coats........then clear over it so the coats blend in. If you use spray paint it probably won't matter. Might bleed a bit though.
not to step on anyone elces feet who would do the paint job.
But if want conatct the foaks at http://www.smoothcreations.com/ and tell Jim Sailing (the owner) that I (Tyler Renner) sent you and he should give you a good discount on anything you want. I just orded 3 cases from him and will be ordering a few more in a little bit.
And his pc's are extreamly EXTREAMLY SWEET I recieved a sunset orange case form him the other day and took it to the local gaming center and eveyone was
But if want conatct the foaks at http://www.smoothcreations.com/ and tell Jim Sailing (the owner) that I (Tyler Renner) sent you and he should give you a good discount on anything you want. I just orded 3 cases from him and will be ordering a few more in a little bit.
And his pc's are extreamly EXTREAMLY SWEET I recieved a sunset orange case form him the other day and took it to the local gaming center and eveyone was
Thanks for the suggestions, guys, but I'd rather do the painting myself. I just want to know how to create a stencil and mask it off so that no paint will bleed through. If you look at part two of the guide, you'll see that after the third coat of paint you're supposed to wet sand one more time, and then use rubbing compound to bring back that gloss. How would I incorporate painting the log in the process, so that the base coat and the logo have that same, deep gloss, and don't run together?
BellaCroix
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1) Go to your local high-end hobby shop. In absence of a good hobby shop (what a sad town that must be) you may find what you're looking for at some place like Pat Catans or another craft store.
2) Look for airbrush contact film (it may be called Stencil Film, Stencil Sheet, Stencil Paper, etc). I think Testors makes some (overpriced) versions. Basically it's some kind of wierd combination of shelf paper and painter's tape.
3) Buy some, pick up a new #12 X-acto blade while you're at it.
4) Cut your shape into the top layer being careful to not cut the backing sheet.
5) Lift your new stencil off the backing sheet and apply to your case panel.
6) Paint. This is the tricky part. If you're not using an airbrush or have little experience using a can of spraypaint to stencil I usually recommend you paint with the overspray: hold the can WAY to far away from the piece you're actually painting and mist it, then re-mist it, do that again, and again, get another beer and do it again... repeat.
7) After lifting off your stencil, clear coat the heck out of it. Since you've basically painted with overspray it's not going to stick that well, you'll need a layer of something to use like a fixative.
8) Have another beer and marvel at your work.
*edit* As far as how to keep everything exactly level, you really cant. If you're painting with overspray it's going to be pretty thin and the clearcoat will level things out a lot but there'll always be a little lift on the stenciled work.
2) Look for airbrush contact film (it may be called Stencil Film, Stencil Sheet, Stencil Paper, etc). I think Testors makes some (overpriced) versions. Basically it's some kind of wierd combination of shelf paper and painter's tape.
3) Buy some, pick up a new #12 X-acto blade while you're at it.
4) Cut your shape into the top layer being careful to not cut the backing sheet.
5) Lift your new stencil off the backing sheet and apply to your case panel.
6) Paint. This is the tricky part. If you're not using an airbrush or have little experience using a can of spraypaint to stencil I usually recommend you paint with the overspray: hold the can WAY to far away from the piece you're actually painting and mist it, then re-mist it, do that again, and again, get another beer and do it again... repeat.
7) After lifting off your stencil, clear coat the heck out of it. Since you've basically painted with overspray it's not going to stick that well, you'll need a layer of something to use like a fixative.
8) Have another beer and marvel at your work.
*edit* As far as how to keep everything exactly level, you really cant. If you're painting with overspray it's going to be pretty thin and the clearcoat will level things out a lot but there'll always be a little lift on the stenciled work.
HitMan-sC said:
the guide only mentions two coats of color and two coats of clearcoat. If you're nuts about keeping the logo and base from smearing, i think you would probably have to add the logo by hand. Spray paint probably won't cut it.
edit: ^^^^^ great advice
OK. I'm just speculating here, could someone tell me if this process would work? This is mostly going off of linear's guide.
1. Initial sanding (220 grit, 320 grit) to remove paint.
2. First primer coat. Wet sand with 400 grit.
3. Second primer coat. Wet sand with 400 grit.
4. First color coat. Cure, sand first color coat with 600 grit.
5. Second color coat. Wait to cure
------- From here on, I'm just speculating. Someone back me up on this. ---------
6. Mask off logo, paint with white gloss enamel. Wait to cure.
7. Wet sand entire panel (will the two colors run together?)
8. Clear coat. More wet sanding.
9. Rubbing compound.
1. Initial sanding (220 grit, 320 grit) to remove paint.
2. First primer coat. Wet sand with 400 grit.
3. Second primer coat. Wet sand with 400 grit.
4. First color coat. Cure, sand first color coat with 600 grit.
5. Second color coat. Wait to cure
------- From here on, I'm just speculating. Someone back me up on this. ---------
6. Mask off logo, paint with white gloss enamel. Wait to cure.
7. Wet sand entire panel (will the two colors run together?)
8. Clear coat. More wet sanding.
9. Rubbing compound.
Mad Machinist
[H]ard|Gawd
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Most auto painters I know usually do the light color first as a base coat.....than go with the dark
Wild Weasel
Limp Gawd
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- 183
What if he used a white permanent marker to colour in a cut out stencil?
Given he might have to take his time with it, but it's another solution. If it doesn't work he could sand it out and paint the spot black again...
Given he might have to take his time with it, but it's another solution. If it doesn't work he could sand it out and paint the spot black again...
BellaCroix
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I'd probably paint the white on the case first (using a very light gray primer first), then make a reverse mask and paint the black over top of that. That way you'll be smoothing the case color into the design instead of ripping through the stencil and cutting into the black underneath. Might make for a smoother fimish too since it's easier for clearcoat to fill a pattern then it is to build up enough of it to even out a bump.
BellaCroix
[H]ard|Gawd
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Lots of wet sanding! Paint the white part underneath then make a reverse stencil, leave the stencil on for the first coat of black over that, wet sand with something over 1000 grit (1500 grit would be good if you properly prepared the surface for the white), paint the black again and wet sand with 2000 grit, then remove the stencil, clear coat, wet sand about 1500 - 2000 grit, re-clear coat, wet sand with 2000 grit.
HitMan-sC said:
Don't get frustrated (that part will come later. hehe) In all seriousness, there's no reason to fear screwing anything up. It's paint. You can always sand it and do it again. In the end, whatever method you use, you'll get the desired appearance as long as you're patient. I think the guide you linked to will do you fine. Use thin coats, allow time to cure, and however you chose to put that logo on will work.
BellaCroix
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Wally said:
Yeah, that's basically the same thing I was talking about except Testors (I think it's them) makes just a sheet of the stuff that you cut with an X-acto blade. It's sort of like the film used to make silk screen stencils except it's sticky.
bigbadgreen
Gawd
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- Oct 2, 2003
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Here is what I would do.
Sand the metal to flat, use some filler if it's un-even.
shoot a coat of primer and sand, shoot a second coat of primer and sand. Now shoot the areas you want the logo with that color and then sand, shoot again if you need another coat and sand. Now make a stencil of what you want and lay it over the area that you just shot and sanded. Your best bet is to use a stencil material that was previously mentioned, it's water resistent so that you can wet sand your coats to come later. this will mask off from your nex t coat. then shoot your colors down as in that guide. Sand, and shoot again if needed. Now peel off the stencil. It should all be the colors you want and sanded down. wipe the stencil area down with some paint prep solution to remove any left behind adhesives. Do not use anything that will remove the paint! they sell paint prep cleaners at auto body/paint stores and places like advance auto, pep boys, NAPA should be able to get some if they don't have it in stock. It's also a good idea to wipe down the case with this prep solution after ever sanding. And before you shoot the next coat use some tack rags (slightly tacky, lint free cheescloth looking rags) to pick up any lint/dirt or whatever. also available at auto stores and paint places.
Now go on to shooting your clear as you would in that guide. I usually use 2 coats of clear, that's all most people need, but if you want to go further you always can. It's not unheard of for some show cars to have many coats of base and clear. By this time your layers should even out. Buff with some multiple stage grit buffing compounds and polishes. The price in good buffers has come down quite a bit and Maguires car polish makers have an excellent paint finishing kit you can buy with a buffer that won't burn your paint. Look into it, If you only get this to use for your car once a year it's still very much worth it.
Good luck, remember take your time, think things out. Most bad paint jobs come from people who hurry through the job becuase they are too excited to slow down. And remember it is only paint. If you fubar it up start over, whatever you did to fubar it you won't do a second time. Have fun.
Here's a link to that maguires buffer plus anything you'd ever need to keep your paint looking new for years http://www.meguiars.com/specials/specials_detail.cfm?name=The-Centennial-Collection&CID=251
sorry it sounds like an ad, but I own a show car and this kit has kept the paint looking brand new, and it's 8 years old. the car is driven and raced all the time as well. If you want your projects to turn out awesome and your car to look new for a long time, pick one up.
Sand the metal to flat, use some filler if it's un-even.
shoot a coat of primer and sand, shoot a second coat of primer and sand. Now shoot the areas you want the logo with that color and then sand, shoot again if you need another coat and sand. Now make a stencil of what you want and lay it over the area that you just shot and sanded. Your best bet is to use a stencil material that was previously mentioned, it's water resistent so that you can wet sand your coats to come later. this will mask off from your nex t coat. then shoot your colors down as in that guide. Sand, and shoot again if needed. Now peel off the stencil. It should all be the colors you want and sanded down. wipe the stencil area down with some paint prep solution to remove any left behind adhesives. Do not use anything that will remove the paint! they sell paint prep cleaners at auto body/paint stores and places like advance auto, pep boys, NAPA should be able to get some if they don't have it in stock. It's also a good idea to wipe down the case with this prep solution after ever sanding. And before you shoot the next coat use some tack rags (slightly tacky, lint free cheescloth looking rags) to pick up any lint/dirt or whatever. also available at auto stores and paint places.
Now go on to shooting your clear as you would in that guide. I usually use 2 coats of clear, that's all most people need, but if you want to go further you always can. It's not unheard of for some show cars to have many coats of base and clear. By this time your layers should even out. Buff with some multiple stage grit buffing compounds and polishes. The price in good buffers has come down quite a bit and Maguires car polish makers have an excellent paint finishing kit you can buy with a buffer that won't burn your paint. Look into it, If you only get this to use for your car once a year it's still very much worth it.
Good luck, remember take your time, think things out. Most bad paint jobs come from people who hurry through the job becuase they are too excited to slow down. And remember it is only paint. If you fubar it up start over, whatever you did to fubar it you won't do a second time. Have fun.
Here's a link to that maguires buffer plus anything you'd ever need to keep your paint looking new for years http://www.meguiars.com/specials/specials_detail.cfm?name=The-Centennial-Collection&CID=251
sorry it sounds like an ad, but I own a show car and this kit has kept the paint looking brand new, and it's 8 years old. the car is driven and raced all the time as well. If you want your projects to turn out awesome and your car to look new for a long time, pick one up.
Heya Hitman, got your pm.
I think what we should do here is just summarize the steps you are familiar with from the guide and inject the part about the logo in the appropriate place in the steps.
First I am guessing you have not sanded/or painted the case yet so lets start from the begining.
Do not sand/strip the stock coating on the case completely off, it is a far better surface to attach paint to than bare metal.
1st:
Sand the case with 400 grit sandpaper using a sanding block, pay close attention to the edges of panels and such. You will notice that the sanding block will sand through to metal in some places along the edges of panels and such. This is good, you are removing high places.
2nd:
Once you have a nice scuff on the case it is time to clean every surface that you just sanded. Use dish soap and warm water and wash the case panels etc. Done wahsing? wash them again. Dry the panels with a clean cotton cloth.
3rd:
BUY A TACK CLOTH FROM THE AUTO PARTS PLACE NEAR YOU!
they cost a buck and will improve your paint job 100x
after you have cleaned and dried the surface use the tack cloth just before spraying the primer.
4th:
Spray the primer
5th:
sand the primer with 600 grit sandpaper again with a sanding block, if you sand through to metal it is ok because you will be recoating the panels with primer again, this step helps smooth things out even more.
6th:
Spray primer again allow time to dry completely
7th:
Use the tack cloth again on the primer just before spraying the first coats of color
8th:
spray color coats allowing for drying time between coats.
If you did the sanding with a sanding block in the first steps there wont be any need to wetsand the color coats at this stage, in fact you may not have to wetsand at all except for the final clear coats if you want a mirror like surface.
9th:
You can layout your logo with low tack masking tape (the blue or green stuff from 3M works great) or have a local sign shop print/cut a vinyl stencil for you to use. One really cheap way it to lay out some wax paper, tape it down around the edges then apply a layer of masking tape onto the wax paper, transfer your logo to the tape then cut it out, the wax paper makes the the tape into one big sticker so you can peel the wax paper off and lay down your stencil onto the panel you are painting.
Be sure and overlap the rows of tape so it all stays together when you peel it off the wax paper.
10th:
Spray the color(s) for your logo, this may require multiple stencils depending on the complexity at so on. keep these coats of paint very light, you dont want a hugh build up of paint or the clear coat will never lay down smooth at the edges where the logo meets you base color.
11th:
Apply your clearcoat and allow to dry
12th:
wet sand with 1500-2000 grit wet.dry sand paper and polish with your choice of compounds, Meguires showcar glaze and 3m compounds are my choice.
As stated before it may take a few days for you to get all this work done, just take your time. You cannot rush painting, the drying times and steps must be followed or it will not turn out how you want.
I think what we should do here is just summarize the steps you are familiar with from the guide and inject the part about the logo in the appropriate place in the steps.
First I am guessing you have not sanded/or painted the case yet so lets start from the begining.
Do not sand/strip the stock coating on the case completely off, it is a far better surface to attach paint to than bare metal.
1st:
Sand the case with 400 grit sandpaper using a sanding block, pay close attention to the edges of panels and such. You will notice that the sanding block will sand through to metal in some places along the edges of panels and such. This is good, you are removing high places.
2nd:
Once you have a nice scuff on the case it is time to clean every surface that you just sanded. Use dish soap and warm water and wash the case panels etc. Done wahsing? wash them again. Dry the panels with a clean cotton cloth.
3rd:
BUY A TACK CLOTH FROM THE AUTO PARTS PLACE NEAR YOU!
they cost a buck and will improve your paint job 100x
after you have cleaned and dried the surface use the tack cloth just before spraying the primer.
4th:
Spray the primer
5th:
sand the primer with 600 grit sandpaper again with a sanding block, if you sand through to metal it is ok because you will be recoating the panels with primer again, this step helps smooth things out even more.
6th:
Spray primer again allow time to dry completely
7th:
Use the tack cloth again on the primer just before spraying the first coats of color
8th:
spray color coats allowing for drying time between coats.
If you did the sanding with a sanding block in the first steps there wont be any need to wetsand the color coats at this stage, in fact you may not have to wetsand at all except for the final clear coats if you want a mirror like surface.
9th:
You can layout your logo with low tack masking tape (the blue or green stuff from 3M works great) or have a local sign shop print/cut a vinyl stencil for you to use. One really cheap way it to lay out some wax paper, tape it down around the edges then apply a layer of masking tape onto the wax paper, transfer your logo to the tape then cut it out, the wax paper makes the the tape into one big sticker so you can peel the wax paper off and lay down your stencil onto the panel you are painting.
Be sure and overlap the rows of tape so it all stays together when you peel it off the wax paper.
10th:
Spray the color(s) for your logo, this may require multiple stencils depending on the complexity at so on. keep these coats of paint very light, you dont want a hugh build up of paint or the clear coat will never lay down smooth at the edges where the logo meets you base color.
11th:
Apply your clearcoat and allow to dry
12th:
wet sand with 1500-2000 grit wet.dry sand paper and polish with your choice of compounds, Meguires showcar glaze and 3m compounds are my choice.
As stated before it may take a few days for you to get all this work done, just take your time. You cannot rush painting, the drying times and steps must be followed or it will not turn out how you want.