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how many watts?
- Thread starter 7.62by39
- Start date
I
Ice Czar
Guest
either it runs or it doesnt
and then again
either it can fry your computer or it doesnt
the quality of the power from the source
the ability of the power supply to transform that into clean stable power,
and the quality of the mobos voltage regulation and distribution
are all just links in the chain
a good PSU can pickup a certain amount of slack on either end
and do its job really well
or it can be the source of problems itself
and only do a reasonable job if the other ends of the chain are stable
what make and model is it?
and list the amps per rail from the lable on the side
(+3.3V, +5V, +12V)
its not the total watts that is important but how they are distributed to the various rails
and how they where rated
(which is where the manufacturer and model come in, since some manufacturers lie like dogs)
and then again
either it can fry your computer or it doesnt
the quality of the power from the source
the ability of the power supply to transform that into clean stable power,
and the quality of the mobos voltage regulation and distribution
are all just links in the chain
a good PSU can pickup a certain amount of slack on either end
and do its job really well
or it can be the source of problems itself
and only do a reasonable job if the other ends of the chain are stable
what make and model is it?
and list the amps per rail from the lable on the side
(+3.3V, +5V, +12V)
its not the total watts that is important but how they are distributed to the various rails
and how they where rated
(which is where the manufacturer and model come in, since some manufacturers lie like dogs)
advanced101101
Gawd
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2004
- Messages
- 655
300W should be fine for that system, watch tho, if you upgrade that video card to a next gen anytime soon, I would consider upgrading your power supply.
I
Ice Czar
Guest
the operative word being should?
assuming there is just a HDD, an Optical, a FDD, and a fan or 2
and no other cards (LAN, sound ect onboard)
your amp distribution would be around
+3.3V......2.4A
+5V........15.6A
+12V......11.8A
with the 3.3V and 5V combined at 86.4A
3.3V + 5V + 12V combined max of 228.9 watts
with a total draw of 238.9 watts
then you take the typical rating of a PSU which is rated at 25C, and consider that its real operating temperature is 40C and deduct approx 1\3rd lost to the reduced effficiency (can be better or worse depending on the normal ambient temperature)
making that 300 watt a 200watt or so after being corrected for real life operating temperatures, factor in it still runs because the threoretical maximum of drawing the full power from each and every component at the same time never actually occurs
and you end up with
if its a quality PSU your likely OK, if not you need a new one
a PSU operating near its total capacity is also less able to deal with a change in the incoming voltage (brownout) and respond to a change in the internal draw (transient response) and if the mobo's voltage regulation isnt up to snuff, you end up with RAM errors
poor voltage regulation being the leading cause of fried RAM after improper installation (ESD)
bringing us back to.... what is it?
on one end of the spectrum you have PSUs like Antec, Fortron and EnerMax (to name a few) that would probably be up to the job, but would still be more stable if they where not so close to their maximum load, on the other end you have generic power supplies that are bundled with cases, such as Allied, PowMax and Deer, in which case your lucky it hasnt caught fire
If youll post the Make and model number,
along with the Amps listed per rail on the lable,
we can start to determine what kind of job its likely to be up to
I might have or can find an independent test of its specs
also your mobo's make and model if you could
assuming there is just a HDD, an Optical, a FDD, and a fan or 2
and no other cards (LAN, sound ect onboard)
your amp distribution would be around
+3.3V......2.4A
+5V........15.6A
+12V......11.8A
with the 3.3V and 5V combined at 86.4A
3.3V + 5V + 12V combined max of 228.9 watts
with a total draw of 238.9 watts
then you take the typical rating of a PSU which is rated at 25C, and consider that its real operating temperature is 40C and deduct approx 1\3rd lost to the reduced effficiency (can be better or worse depending on the normal ambient temperature)
making that 300 watt a 200watt or so after being corrected for real life operating temperatures, factor in it still runs because the threoretical maximum of drawing the full power from each and every component at the same time never actually occurs
and you end up with
if its a quality PSU your likely OK, if not you need a new one
a PSU operating near its total capacity is also less able to deal with a change in the incoming voltage (brownout) and respond to a change in the internal draw (transient response) and if the mobo's voltage regulation isnt up to snuff, you end up with RAM errors
poor voltage regulation being the leading cause of fried RAM after improper installation (ESD)
bringing us back to.... what is it?
on one end of the spectrum you have PSUs like Antec, Fortron and EnerMax (to name a few) that would probably be up to the job, but would still be more stable if they where not so close to their maximum load, on the other end you have generic power supplies that are bundled with cases, such as Allied, PowMax and Deer, in which case your lucky it hasnt caught fire
If youll post the Make and model number,
along with the Amps listed per rail on the lable,
we can start to determine what kind of job its likely to be up to
I might have or can find an independent test of its specs
also your mobo's make and model if you could
Thanks for the for the info the motherboard is a abit kt-7. I built this copmuter about 2 years or so ago. I cant rember if I bought a Generic one from compusa or if It was in my old case eather way its Generic . Now I know better if I have any problems I wolnt buy Generic again thanks again.