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how do i test a psu

L

leeroy

Gawd
Joined
Apr 14, 2004
Messages
578
yeah so how do i actually go abotu testing a psu for faults? and are there any such thing as an intermittentaly faulty psu?

my methods are currently-
pot
post
connect to hdd, cd, etc
connect to y connector and run hdd + cd from one molex
measure via volt meter
connect to high end vga card and 3dmark it
 
You need to get yourself a voltmeter. Turn on your computer and start taking measurements to see where you really are. Software and your BIOS are almost never right.
 
Leeroy, what exactly are you looking to do? You have the voltmeter; from there you test each voltage point. They (the voltages) should be no more then 5% out of spec. 3% is even better.

In the stickys you will find a “pin out” diagram of your motherboard Molex so you can get your 3.3 volt readings.

Is there a specific problem your looking for?
 
hi, thx for the replys

a customer complained to me that psu2 keeps cutting his pc out. customer states when he uses his original psu his system is fine and he is only one hdd is plugged in as he states

so im looking for a method to check whether if a psu can output consistent vooltage and whether if it will cause a pc to instantly cut out? when i measured voltage on the molexs they were 5.03 and 12.04 consistently on all connectors and the green wire on atx1 was at 3.3 so according to my knowledge its perfectly fine?

i also tested the psu2 by using a £300 asus vga card which draws power from the psu and 3dmarked it. and it passed

ps, i cannot say what ps2 brand is sorry. but its 250w rated powering only customers hdd. but i was able to use a y spliiter and use a hdd and cdrw connected to one molex on EACH.

i really do hope someone can help me out, but is there such thing as an intermittent fault on a psu? isnt if a psu faulty will be dead dead not half life?
 
There are PSU testing FAQs at Xbit Labs and Silent PC Review.

Does your mobo run the CPU from the +12V while the customer's uses the +5V for this (i.e., has no square 4-pin connector)? If so, maybe the problem is that the 250W PSU has adequate +12V amp capacity but it can't put out enough combined +3.3V & +5V power. Sometimes a PSU will fail intermittently simply because it can't put out enough power and is shutting down, and newer mobos may draw only 3A @ +5V while old ones may draw over 10A @ +5V.

Most intermittent problems are caused by bad connections, such as from dirty or loose plugs or bad crimps for their wires, or from broken solder joints. Is there any way you can whack the PSU several times without jolting the HDs, such as by unplugging the HD power or by placing the PSU outside the case?
 
its connected to the mobo via atx1 and atx2 meaning one of them p4 compaitble 4pin in a sqaure type.

yea i would like to know how i can catch/disocover an intermiittent fault? thks
 
1. check that the load its powering doesnt exceed its capacity for it operating temperature
(easier said than done :p > http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=844691)

2. ensure it has a stable AC source
(alternately test its ability to deal with a variable AC source, which would require a variac)

PSUs are all about the worse case senerio, too great a load, too high a temperature, to variable a source power, which is why power issues are so intermittent

what make and model are we talking about, and what is it trying to power?

also its not just the total capacity, but its ability to deal with a truely dynamic load
so altering from a high load to a low one and back again is a workout
review the links larrymoencurly contributed ;)
 
Here are some URLs about power supply repair:

http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/smpsfaq.htm

http://www.nutsvolts.com/PDF_Files/PSRepair.pdf#search='nuts%20volts%20computer%20power%20repair'

To find bad connections, unplug the PSU for at least 30 minutes and remove its circuit board to carefully inspect it with a bright light and a magnifying glass for cracked or dull solder. To resolder all the heavy cables you'll need an iron rated for at least 40-50W, but I don't think that they're the problem. Also look for any components that seem overheated, cracked, or bulged. Cracked or bulging parts (usually resistors and capacitors) need to be replaced.

If you attempt to run the PSU with its cover removed, plug the power cord into the PSU first and then into a wall outlet protected by either an isolation transformer or GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter), and don't touch anything inside because there's high voltage all over, up to 340V, including on things that you'd think should have no voltage on them, like heatsinks. You can tap on the circuit board and big components with a rod of plastic or wood, like a chopstick or toothbrush. I'd also wear goggles, in case a capacitor explodes and spews sulfuric acid.
 
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