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Cod

Gawd
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I've decided I want to hard wire all my stuff in our family room; however, the modem and router are upstairs in my office. I've got a few options available and wanted to get some opinions from those who have tried any of them. Here are my three options:

1) Install NETGEAR MCAB1001 MoCA Coax-Ethernet Adapter Kits
2) Install Monster PowerNet 300 Power Line Network Modules
3) Run the Ethernet cables through the wall, under carpet, etc.

I'm primarily looking for info about the speed differences, ease of troubleshooting, etc.; however, information about any / all of the above options is greatly appreciated.
 
Running cat5e is always your best bet. It's protocol independent, meaning you can upgrade from gig to 10gig later, or a video balun, or virtually anything else that runs across cat5e. Also, you're not involving proprietary solutions that will be expensive to upgrade later.
 
Installing cat5e sockets is easy, but do go out and buy the correct tool to punch the cables into the sockets for a reliable connection. And a test meter to check for faults. These items will save a lot of time for the small cash outlay.

It is easy to locate the sockets, cable and tools at an online retailer for a surprisingly cheap price. Grab a test meter at the same time for testing that cable and sockets to know you have a reliable connection.

All the above is going to cost a lot less than one of those odd Netgear boxes. And be much higher quality.

If you already have co-ax around the office, you can use this old cable as a "pull through" to get you through your walls. Otherwise a ball of string is going to be VERY useful.

It is fairly straight forward to keep the cables tidy and cleanly out of sight. If you are placing them under carpets, keep to the edges of the room. You do not want people walking on your cables - or even worse plonking a cable down on top of one.

Install MORE sockets than you need. Add a few spares into each room. If you are putting in a single socket, it is just as easy to install a double. And you will be glad you did at a future time.

Setup a small cupboard somewhere where your patch panel can be installed next to the router. Or if you are a cheapskate, you can install sockets in the cupboard for the other ends of the cable. Terminating the cables in plugs makes it much harder to move things around at a later date.

Also make sure you buy a decent Gigabit Switch to install in this cupboard. Remember they get hot, so the cupboard must get an airflow of some form. 8, 16 and 24 port flavours are out there, so this sets your choice of how many sockets you can install.

Ask your questions, and I'll give you details. I install cable runs quite often in a semi-professional basis. This means I have been through a lot of the classic "gotchas" in my time. :)

One obvious one - use some chunks of spare cable to practice wiring the sockets up. Also when installing the cable always leave a good spare chunk at each end in case of mistakes in wiring the socket itself.


Re: option 2 - Anything from Monster is over priced. And Powerline Network Modules can be unreliable. They also turn your whole office into an extreme interference aerial which will have people using Short Wave Radio screaming at you.
 
Buy your patch cables as it's easier than making them. You can get them in various colours then. Again buy online as your local DIY store will charge you between TEN and TWENTY times the price!!

When wiring the sockets, you will find the colour diagram printed in the socket. Often you will see a choice of "568-B" or "568-A" wiring. Doesn't really matter which you use - just stick with one. I usually plump for the more standard 568-B wiring.

Run ALL of the cable first. Leave a spare few feet on each end. Slack gets eaten up as you start nailing down the cable. If you are cunning, your little cupboard where all the cables meet the router is big enough to hide the slack left in the cables.

Decent cable will come on a reel with metre markings to let you know how much you have used. (I assume this will be feet in US) This helps a lot when pulling cables through walls into other rooms. It also makes identifying the different cables easier. (Though it would make life simpler if you mark your cables as you go.)

Don't nail your cables to the wall until both sockets are in and tested. I bought a small nail gun designed for cat5e cable and it is a MASSIVE time saver compared with nailing separate cable hooks up. It is also handy for chasing people out of the room who are hassling you. :)

I know I keep mentioning buying tools, but they make your life sooooo much easier. They make the socket wiring quicker and higher quality. The nailgun makes the job look tidy and secure (including nailing under the carpet to stop the cable moving). The Krone punch-down-tool for making the sockets give a better connection than a jammed in screwdriver. The cable test meter means you KNOW your cables will work instead of just hoping you got it right.


With the setup you are planning - how many sockets are you thinking of installing? What is the distance of the longest cable run, following all the "ins and outs" of the room?

You can never do enough planning. And obviously add in the cost of some packs of beer to help to nail the cables up straight :)
 
Thanks for all the advice. This will be my first real "cabling" experience, so I need to do a lot of research for parts and such before making holes around the house (and getting the wifey fired up). I'm definitely a rookie at this sort of thing. I'm just researching possibilities right now as the process is in its infancy. I know very little about networking, so I'm unsure about how much cable I'll need and other information at the current time. I need to research exactly what needs to be done as I'm not entirely sure.

I do have one question today though, if you (or someone else) don't mind helping me out. If I put a patch panel somewhere on the first floor (location of the family room), do I need to install the switch in the same location or at the final resting spot? If the switch is with the patch panel, do I run the final cables from the switch to the boxes via the wall and Ethernet wall sockets? My big thing is making it look clean and natural. Any further guidance is greatly appreciated.

Also, if anyone knows of any decent books for this sort-of thing, please share as I'm looking for any help I can get.
 
jjeff1 said:
Running cat5e is always your best bet. It's protocol independent, meaning you can upgrade from gig to 10gig later [...]
Click to expand...

i'd like to see you push 10gig over cat5e.

you should run cat6 instead of cat5e. the price of cat6 has really come down (esp if you buy on monoprice, spool prices are stupid cheap) to the point where it makes no sense to not run cat6.
 
loosh said:
i'd like to see you push 10gig over cat5e.

you should run cat6 instead of cat5e. the price of cat6 has really come down (esp if you buy on monoprice, spool prices are stupid cheap) to the point where it makes no sense to not run cat6.
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That was a question that came to mind after my previous post...should I go Cat6 or Cat5e? If the prices aren't greatly different, I'd obviously go with the better performing network.
 
Cod said:
That was a question that came to mind after my previous post...should I go Cat6 or Cat5e? Everything I've seen on the internet (taken with a grain of salt of course) talks about Cat5e being the way to go because it can and does run gigabit speeds where as Cat6 is only certified to run gigabit speeds.
Click to expand...

Cat6 is fully backward compatible, and is better against crosstalk and line noise. I'd run cat6 for the minor price difference.
 
BlueMeanie said:
The Krone punch-down-tool for making the sockets give a better connection than a jammed in screwdriver. The cable test meter means you KNOW your cables will work instead of just hoping you got it right.
Click to expand...

Hey Blue, curious what's the deal with the Krone blade? Couldn't quickly find the information googling. Is it a 110 or 66 blade? How does it differ from the usual double ended cut/not cut types?

For that matter, curious if there's a specific good and/or cheap punchdown tool you'd recommend? Wouldn't mind having one.. last time I wired a jack or two I used the tool-less keystones, and I really wasn't too impressed with them. Seemed to have to work them a bit extra to get a good connection, and I'm thinking the punchdown type would've ultimately given me less hassle.

Don't know that I want to spend more than $50 or 60, as I usually sub out my wiring work and focus on servers, databases, software and network integration / services stuff, but I would like to be better equipped for the one-off and personal stuff.
 
last i checked a 100ft cat6 cable was only like $2-3 more expensive than a cat5e cable. a 1000ft spool of cat6 is only $110 at monoprice. 1000ft spool of cat5e is $80~. honestly, i would spend the extra money and just go with cat6. even if you won't utilize it now, you won't have to upgrade for a long time. if you're concerned about 10gig, cat6 can do 10gig links at distances at about 200ft~ if i remember right. and as Monkey34 said, it's completely backwards compatible, so any older devices will still work fine regardless.
 
I put all my routers and DSL modem in the attic. I wasn't sure how it would fair with 105*F summers here in Texas. But its been over 100* every day for 3 months and they have not exibited any issues at all. Plus having the wireless router up in the attic REALLY improved the coverage area. The whole house now has useable signal.

I did add a small chipset fan to the case of my routers. Like the little ones that go on the northbridge. Just to get some air moving in the case. I got power by soldering to the main power input on the circuitboard of the router (where the wall wart plugs into).

EDIT: This kind of fan
northbridgefanlabel.jpg
 
Yeah - grab cat6 if price allows. But good quality cat5e will still run a gigabit network.

I have had a couple of Krone tools for punching the cables into the sockets. One cheapo one from a DIY store and then a better quality one from an ex-telephone engineer. They both did the job fine, so no need to worry too much.

Patch panel goes next to the router. The idea is you run one single cable for each socket. That runs from the wall socket to the patch panel. You then end up with all your cables terminating in the patch panel keeping things neat. There are then short patch cables connecting your sockets to a Network Switch. Your Router will also connect to this same switch.

A small cupboard keeps things neat, but like westrock2000 mentions you need to keep things cool in there so fans may be needed.


The first question I need to know an answer to is - roughly how many sockets are you thinking about? And how many rooms? Easier for me to talk details then.
 
I will also vote for dropping Cat5e/6 if you have access and can do it. I'm currently using the Netgear MoCa bridge for a pair of locations that simply wouldn't be doable to drop twisted pair. It is basically being used for a Windows 7MCE extender. The extender has plenty of bandwidth to perform flawlessly, however, even though the MoCa adapters are rated at "270" mbit, the jokers at Netgear put 10/100 jacks on the back of them, so you'll never reach that throughput from 2 devices.
 
I'm a Brit, so one thing I can't do is point you at the correct online retailer to buy this stuff at. If someone else can post a few suggestions of a reliable store, I can point at the bits you need.

If you are only running a half dozen sockets, there is no real point in the patch panel and terminating in cheap sockets is just as tidy.

And there really is nothing you need to "learn" apart from wiring up a socket correctly. Assuming you are not colour blind, that is simplicity itself. Last time I put some sockets into an office, it took longer to drill through the walls than run the wires and install the sockets.
 
BlueMeanie said:
The first question I need to know an answer to is - roughly how many sockets are you thinking about? And how many rooms? Easier for me to talk details then.
Click to expand...
Good news is, I currently need to run the cables to only one room. I will need a total of three sockets to start, but I noticed Keystone has wall plates for multiple sockets. Thanks for offering to help me out.

Thanks for all the advice everyone...I'm really intrigued by the discussion.
 
Three sockets, one room. How many walls do you need to get through?

The main thing you need to decide is where you are going to terminate this all. Where will your little network cupboard sit? Once that decision is made, you are not going to be able to move it. It needs to be near a power socket. And have some room for a the network boxes and sockets to be installed here.

As you are only talking about three sockets for now, I'd skip the Patch Panel and just run your cables so they have a socket on each end. Less cost for now. Just leave some slack in the network cupboard in case you want to go mad in future.

Cat5e\Cat6 sockets are usually in singles, pairs or quads. Do you want all three sockets in same place? Or are they split round the room? I tend to install a double socket next to each desk. Thinking ahead by adding some spare sockets in now can save some swearing at a future time.

I'd get a nice little Gigabit switch. Six or eight port one will be enough. Pop this in the cupboard with your router. This means you will then have all your computers talking at a Gigabit speed straight away.
 
Okay. I am now reading your OP a bit better.

Today - go buy yourself a small Gigabit Switch. 8-port Netgear will do. Or something similar. You can install this in your office now. Put it next to your router. Connect your office PC directly into this new switch. Connect any other office devices into this one switch. Then one lead from the switch to the router to connect you to the outside world.

This will let you see how your network will now develop.

Near to this switch you will install the three (or four) sockets for linking to the family room. I have seen a four socket face plate before. This would be your neatest solution for this first install. Keep these close to your new network switch so you can use short patch leads. Ideally pre-built 0.5 metre ones. (Get a selection in the same colour to make it look neat)

You will already notice the heat your router puts out. The gigabit switch will also add more heat. Make sure you have plenty of air around these boxes, or add a cooling fan blowing across the kit. Be careful about stacking them as that just makes them heat each other up quicker. So get a good air gap between them.


Here is the UK shop I often use. This is just for example images. Prices will be wrong, but generally we get over charged here in the UK, so if you translate the Pound prices to Dollar by just swapping the £ to a $ sign then you are going to be close.

Krone Punch Tool - http://www.netshop.co.uk/productcategorydetail.aspx?categoryid=51838
A cheap one will probably be fine for now. My first cheap one still works, but it a bit battered now. Always handy to have in the tool box.

Cat6 sockets - http://netshop.co.uk/productcategorydetail.aspx?categoryid=55827
These are the modula type. Makes for flexible choices. Notice the "double gang" face plate will allow you to install four sockets to one location (i.e. into your office upstairs). And then get a few "single gang" face plates to install one or two sockets in each required location in your Family Room. Note that there are spacers that can be used if you want just a single socket in a location. You'll need to wire one "Cat6 UTP Module" to each end of your cable.

Back Boxes - http://www.netshop.co.uk/productcategorydetail.aspx?CategoryID=52077
You need these to mount the above sockets into. Standard item. Identical to what you use for your mains sockets, etc.

A network cable tester - http://netshop.co.uk/productcategorydetail.aspx?CategoryID=51842
This is IMPORTANT as it helps avoid headaches. Especially as these are the first sockets you have wired in. Again valuable addition to the toolbox as this lets you test any network cables and sockets anywhere. (Including checking on your contractor cable runs at work) Cheaper versions around could save some pennies. (This example is the one I use)

Patch cables - http://netshop.co.uk/productcategorydetail.aspx?CategoryID=51781
Many colours and many lengths. You can make your own cables, or for a few cents get someone else to do it in pretty colours.

Reel of Cat6 cable - http://netshop.co.uk/productcategorydetail.aspx?CategoryID=51554
Boxes are 305metre, which sounds like more than you need. So check out local cable suppliers to see if you can some "by the metre". Though - at the price - I'd just buy a reel as it is always handy. Remember - you can use this same cable to run phone extensions.


I assume you already own wire cutters, drills, hammers, plasters, first aid kit, another hammer, and beer.
 
westrock2000 said:
I put all my routers and DSL modem in the attic. I wasn't sure how it would fair with 105*F summers here in Texas. But its been over 100* every day for 3 months and they have not exibited any issues at all. Plus having the wireless router up in the attic REALLY improved the coverage area. The whole house now has useable signal.

I did add a small chipset fan to the case of my routers. Like the little ones that go on the northbridge. Just to get some air moving in the case. I got power by soldering to the main power input on the circuitboard of the router (where the wall wart plugs into).

EDIT: This kind of fan
northbridgefanlabel.jpg
Click to expand...

12v to that fan makes tons of noise, id limit it to around 6v and it will be whisper quiet, and still move air.
 
dashpuppy said:
12v to that fan makes tons of noise, id limit it to around 6v and it will be whisper quiet, and still move air.
Click to expand...
I'd take it a few steps more and put a bigger diameter fan into place. A 120mm case fan will shift more air and be a lot quieter. Or in a loft setup, I'd get some mains power office fan(s) to push more air around the loft. Get it out of the corner with the network kit in.

All hardware has operating temperatures in the specs. Leave a thermometer up there and see how hot it gets. I used to work for a company where they developed network hubs and switches. Which meant we were the mugs who had to run kit to see if it was okay to run without fans... very noticeable when you start getting packet loss due to heat.:rolleyes:
 
BlueMeanie said:
I'd take it a few steps more and put a bigger diameter fan into place. A 120mm case fan will shift more air and be a lot quieter. Or in a loft setup, I'd get some mains power office fan(s) to push more air around the loft. Get it out of the corner with the network kit in.

All hardware has operating temperatures in the specs. Leave a thermometer up there and see how hot it gets. I used to work for a company where they developed network hubs and switches. Which meant we were the mugs who had to run kit to see if it was okay to run without fans... very noticeable when you start getting packet loss due to heat.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

depending how big the router / switch is i guess, i'm in the middle or silencing my Dell 5224 24 port switch, the little fans they come with are LOUD, so i have changed 2 out to 24V fans and reversed them to pull the air out the back, still looking around for a 3" but THIN fan to just tape to the 2 heatsinks to move air across them.
 
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dashpuppy said:
depending how bug the router / switch is i guess, i'm in the middle or silencing my Dell 5224 24 port switch, the little fans they come with are LOUD, so i have changed 2 out to 24V fans and reversed them to pull the air out the back, still looking around for a 3" but THIN fan to just tape to the 2 heatsinks to move air across them.
Click to expand...
The Dremel was designed for jobs like this. Hacking bigger holes into the boxes of routers and making funky looking ghetto modded network kit which run a lot cooler. Those small whinny fans are just annoying. Often they are "last minute" additions when the manufacturer realises they are getting RMAs cause by heat - so in goes a cheap and nasty fan.
 
BlueMeanie said:
The Dremel was designed for jobs like this. Hacking bigger holes into the boxes of routers and making funky looking ghetto modded network kit which run a lot cooler. Those small whinny fans are just annoying. Often they are "last minute" additions when the manufacturer realises they are getting RMAs cause by heat - so in goes a cheap and nasty fan.
Click to expand...

agree with that for sure, wish they would put PWM circuits in them, machine gets warm spin the fan faster, machine is running cool keep the fans running slower.


Oh well..
 
dashpuppy said:
agree with that for sure, wish they would put PWM circuits in them, machine gets warm spin the fan faster, machine is running cool keep the fans running slower.


Oh well..
Click to expand...
It is all about cost... which is why the fans are so noisy in the first place. If adding external fans, a bit of a read of the modding section of [H] will soon turn up a source for heat controlled fans.
 
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