Goa´uld Al´Kesh [scratch build]

Discussion in 'Worklogs' started by CapTen, Oct 9, 2017.

  1. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    img_6049.png

    The


    Goa´uld Al´Kesh


    is a space ship of the bomber class from the TV series Stargate SG1.
    What is there to say?



    Designation: Al'kesh
    Builder:
    Goa'uld
    Class:Bomber
    First appearance:SG1_04x22
    SG1 4x22 Exodus
    Sheath material:
    Naquadah
    Hyperdrive:interstellar
    Arming:
    Goa'uld-Gun,Goa'uld-Bombs
    Defense:Goa'uld-shield
    Sensors:Goa'uld-Sensors
    Other systems:
    escape pod,ring Transporter,Camouflage shield (optional)


    As a big Stargate fan I always wanted to have one of the spaceships.
    Unfortunately it is very rare in the series and since the game there, every Alkesh looks different.
    So just the right thing to let my creativity run wild.
    Sometimes I do not even like the original right so I build the Al`kesh as I see it.
    The Al'kesh was supposed to be a functional ITX system, and the rest would be inspired by Stargate

    In this sense: Shal'kek nem'ron ('I die free!')
    Hardware
    CPU: Intel Core I7 6600K
    Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
    VGA: MSI GTX 1070 AERO ITX
    Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
    PSU: Enermax Revolution SFX 550W
    Fan: 2 x Enermax T.B.RGB

    Cooling
    Bitspower custom water cooling

    in advance two pictures of the hardware which is installed.
    Since I am still not sure how or how much I get into the case
    I've sent the AERO ITX carefully to Alphacool to let me make a suitable water cooler for it.
    Unfortunately there is not yet one on the market for the MSI VGA.

    k-IMG_1017.jpg

    k-IMG_1010.jpg

    I would like to thank you very much to

    MSI

    Ballistix

    Bitspower

    Enermax


    since they support me so energetically in this project
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2018
    pendragon1 likes this.
  2. stereo55

    stereo55 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    280
    Joined:
    Aug 4, 2001
    Bow in the presence of your god ! :greyalien:

    Cant wait to see the results .... :nailbiting:
     
    CapTen likes this.
  3. Silentbob343

    Silentbob343 [H]ard|Gawd

    Messages:
    1,710
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2004
  4. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Hi , yes sorry i´ve send the VGA to alphacool for a waterblock. I could not find one for the Aero ITX.
    I hope i recive it in this year :(
     
  5. Ultima99

    Ultima99 [H]ardness Supreme

    Messages:
    4,681
    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2004
    Interesting concept. Looking forward to seeing the results.
     
    CapTen likes this.
  6. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016

    Now it's going on again.

    As previously mentioned I've sended the VGA to Alphacool, which arrived there at the beginning of 10/2017. As a hint, I should calculate with 20 days for the mapping. (ca. 11/2017) and 8-12 weeks manufactoring, so max 01/2048 - 03.2018.

    The VGA was sended back short before Christmas, on demand, they couldn't give me an Answer about the further term, so I have to school myself in patience.

    In my assessment I've asked them again in January, but I'm not able to find the email for it. My last request was at the 27.02.2018 but since Christmas I'm not getting any replies.

    But because MSI and Crucial/Ballistix are trust in me, which I've already strained in my Opinion, I needed to orienteering me otherwise.

    And see there I was able to find a fitting VGA Cooler at Bitspower and could convince them to support my Project.

    That opens me of course an other possibility to even adapt the Watercooling on the typical Goa`uld Al`kesh Colors.
    But see for yourself

    499.jpg

    The acerbity of course was, no sooner as Bitspower sended out the Packet to me, it was honestly the same day 14.03.2018 (Big Brother is watching you and so), if got a reply from Alphacool. Sorry etc.

    Very well then I've now two Cooler Super. :klatsch:

    Well now, let's start.

    As first step, I've builded on my own a Styroporcutter, more flexible as a table and hand device. I don't need to say a lot about it I think. All right, working with the water level, cause with bevel cuts I can't work.

    k-500.jpg

    Here the auxiliary solution to stretch the Wire

    k-501.jpg

    And here the fixture to make it able to use the hole thing also as Hand device/ lance.

    k-502.jpg

    Now I've got two Styroporplates in 100x50x16cm. At first I wanted to glue them together to get enough height for building but meanwhile one plate is enough. So first a fitting egg was cutted.

    k-IMG_2390.jpg

    And the the Lance unplugged and worked securely with free hands. How it is at all works, a bit less cutting then to much.

    k-IMG_2391.jpg

    Now it's go further with 40er and 60er sandpaper, that works really well. With this result I haven't thought, apart from that mess.

    k-IMG_2393.jpg

    So step by step I fumble my way to the Form that delight me.

    k-IMG_2394.jpg

    k-IMG_2395.jpg

    k-IMG_2396.jpg

    As far as good, now I started to sister the different layers from the Al`Kesh. For that you use preferably thick construction paper for it.

    k-IMG_2398.jpg

    Everything somehow compromises but only these makes imaginative. How a painter just is, he's thinking that filler will do its best, but the more the better is the working now, as less level out is needed later.

    k-IMG_2400.jpg

    k-IMG_2401.jpg

    k-IMG_2402.jpg

    False sequence sorry but here is the Material that I organized for it. I will comment in the next working steps.

    k-IMG_2403.jpg

    To get a stand clear gap and to hamper the contact between the polyester resin and the Styropor (it would decay in a short time) I've insert a 3mm thick PE Tube in the side.

    k-IMG_2404.jpg

    k-IMG_2405.jpg

    Now only the Back. I've thought everything would went easier/faster but that is making a DIY’er out.

    k-IMG_2406.jpg

    I didn't know how the Polyester Resin would react with the duct tape, so ever duct tapes and gaps would glued more with paper and instantglue

    k-IMG_2407.jpg

    and so its begin, the hole paper covered in a deep layer of Polyester Resin and then carefully dap little strips weaves on it. not spreading just dapping that the Strips won’t move.

    In the same way the spreading would tear down the weaves.

    The Weaves draws full of the resin from alone.

    During the work the resin will begin gelation and you can dap the next mixture on it or the remaining Material until the Weaves are completly embedded.

    k-IMG_2408.jpg

    Because the work with the Paper became silly i’ve tried on trail to paint the sides with wall color to get a seperation between the Polyesterresin and the Styropor. That was really marginal, as the Weaves was on it, i saw the Styropor began to wind up. Phew saved by the bell.

    k-IMG_2409.jpg

    k-IMG_2410.jpg

    To reach the most highest stability I've choose two Polyester putty knifes. One rude fibre-reinforced and a fine Polyester putty knife.

    Here the rude one. He is remove the biggest surface irregularities.

    k-IMG_2411.jpg

    k-IMG_2412.jpg

    Groundhog Day. For Days always the same work steps by a processing time of 2-5 min, nerves after a time but as Painter it's buisness as usual.

    Blending - processing - cleaning tools - smoking break :D

    k-IMG_2413.jpg

    Time for the next Layer: the Cap

    k-IMG_2414.jpg

    k-IMG_2415.jpg

    k-IMG_2416.jpg

    k-IMG_2417.jpg

    k-IMG_2418.jpg

    The Cap was painted with Polyester Resin so it can reach the right form. The process of gelation is going on fairly quick,os you can take an eye on the dry process. It was fixed with assembly adhesive out of the cartridge. At the Borders I watched out that it isn't gluing with the spaceship. I went regularly along the sites with a boxcutter.

    The resin which was to much I painted on the Spaceship, like you can see.

    k-IMG_2419.jpg

    k-IMG_2420.jpg

    Now I've coated both side of the Cap with GRP Weaves. I two working process for sure. It gelate fast but is hardened first after 12h. It depends on how good you mix it. To observe the presets is really important. I've mostly mixed with Syringes of 50-100ml but how you think a lot helps a lot, that's not the fall here. To much hardened can extend the dry time fastly to more then 24h. I've looked a bit silly out of the clothes xD
    Temperature is important like at varnish minimum 20°+.

    k-IMG_2421.jpg

    k-IMG_2422.jpg

    Okay this is going to explode the picture limit.

    A weekly update is verified herewith :)

    See you next time!!

     
  7. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Hi!

    after I covered everything with the fine polyester knife it went to the bottom.
    Exactly the same procedure as above

    k-IMG_2423.jpg

    k-IMG_2424.jpg

    k-IMG_2425.jpg

    k-IMG_2426.jpg

    k-IMG_2428.jpg

    Now the Back had to be straightened, but I needed a guide rail.

    k-IMG_2429.jpg

    Paper helps very well as a ruler replacement if you want to cut polystyrene,
    So I cut the shape of the spacecraft from construction paper and taped it on styrodur, and cut it out.

    k-IMG_2430.jpg

    k-IMG_2431.jpg

    Now I had a straight line to fix the paper strips and then brush with polyester resin.

    k-IMG_2432.jpg

    k-IMG_2433.jpg

    the same on the bottom

    k-IMG_2434.jpg

    k-IMG_2435.jpg

    Now I could cover everything with the polyester putty.

    Now it was time to determine the perfect shape for the pyramid.
    First try with paper.

    Nooo that Looks not good :p

    k-IMG_3439.jpg

    second try : is better. (y)
    Nice snappy in the front and a fat back to look inside.
    The pyramid is later built from plexiglas :rock:

    k-IMG_3440.jpg

    k-IMG_3441.jpg

    first template i built from wood

    k-IMG_3442.jpg

    What do you think about the form?

    k-IMG_3443.jpg

    k-IMG_3443a.jpg

    Now I can cut everything up
    marked

    k-IMG_3444.jpg

    remove cover carefully

    k-IMG_3449.jpg

    Hole drilled

    k-IMG_3450.jpg

    and cut out, after that I began to fill the underside.

    k-IMG_3451.jpg

    After cutting the spaceship, the whole thing looked like this.
    :LOL:

    k-IMG_3453.jpg

    Unfortunately I did not have a picture of the empty interior at this time.
    But i have posted a Video onFacebook .
    But as it looks exactly then you see in the next post :p
     
    viivo likes this.
  8. viivo

    viivo Gawd

    Messages:
    695
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Interesting and informative. Thanks for taking us through each detailed step of the process as there is more opportunity to learn from that than just end-results. Very much looking forward to future progress.
     
  9. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Thank you, I like to do that ;)
     
  10. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Hello and Happy Easter!
    This time a monster update.

    I have a lot tube remains but nothing fits for a engine

    k-_MG_3509.jpg

    I found 4 feets for shop shelves

    k-_MG_3510.jpg

    and yeah I think that suits.

    k-_MG_3511.jpg

    k-_MG_3512.jpg

    k-_MG_3513.jpg

    k-_MG_3514.jpg

    and lenses to illuminate each engine from the inside

    k-_MG_3529.jpg

    k-_MG_3530.jpg

    Then the Ballistix Sport LT.
    I remove the decals and cooler.
    I closed the holes with aluminum kit

    k-_MG_3504.jpg

    k-_MG_3505.jpg

    k-_MG_3507.jpg

    paint in Gold

    k-_MG_3508.jpg

    and glued them with thermal adhesive

    k-_MG_3582.jpg

    i cut out 3mm Alu for the Riser Cable.

    k-_MG_3515.jpg

    k-_MG_3516.jpg

    k-_MG_3518.jpg

    and glued with GRP

    k-_MG_3520.jpg

    k-_MG_3522.jpg

    I noticed that I forgot a level on the bottom.

    k-_MG_3523.jpg

    k-_MG_3524.jpg

    k-_MG_3525.jpg

    k-_MG_3526.jpg

    k-_MG_3527.jpg

    k-_MG_3528.jpg

    Unfortunately, it has slipped by 2 mm

    k-_MG_3532.jpg

    k-_MG_3533.jpg

    finally the radiators arrived

    k-_MG_3534.jpg

    cut out

    k-_MG_3537.jpg

    i like it

    k-_MG_3538.jpg

    The point why i used 2 120mm rads and no 240

    k-_MG_3539.jpg

    then i glued the rads with epoxy and the poylester resin

    k-_MG_3542.jpg

    brood brood- Power Supply Ventilation - Transporter Rings, Dr Watson Combine! :rofl:

    k-_MG_3544.jpg

    k-_MG_3546.jpg

    Hahaha YES!
    For the holder 2 alu angle i used.

    k-_MG_3549.jpg

    fixed with fiber-rainforced knife

    k-_MG_3550.jpg

    and then with GRP

    k-_MG_3557.jpg

    k-_MG_3559.jpg

    As a dust filter I've cut out a circle from an old mesh

    k-_MG_3562.jpg

    bend arround the tube

    k-_MG_3563.jpg

    k-_MG_3564.jpg

    k-_MG_3565.jpg

    and glued with Acrifix R192.

    k-_MG_3568.jpg

    now the hinge mechanism

    k-_MG_3569.jpg

    3mm Alu for the shipside.

    k-_MG_3570.jpg

    everything was as large as possible placed in GRP as usual

    k-_MG_3571.jpg

    k-_MG_3572.jpg

    now i marked the layer for the MB tray
    and used two small alu angle

    k-_MG_3575.jpg

    these where fixed with fibreglas-rainforced putty and painted with polyester resin

    k-_MG_3576.jpg

    k-_MG_3577.jpg

    Good you are now up to date.
    Yesterday I started customizing the MB Tray but more about it next time.​
     
    guitarslingerchris, hazexban and Derf like this.
  11. hazexban

    hazexban [H]ard|Gawd

    Messages:
    1,752
    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2004
    This is awesome!
     
    CapTen likes this.
  12. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Tek´ma´tek Tauri!

    Now it went to the MB tray.
    To measure it, I just measured every two inches from the center
    and put me on the tray points.

    k-_MG_3578.jpg

    k-_MG_3579.jpg

    so I could accurately as possible to cut the aluminum.

    k-_MG_3586.jpg

    now the riser card

    k-_MG_3587.jpg

    and cut the threads for it

    k-_MG_3588.jpg

    then all holes and spacers were set

    k-_MG_3621.jpg

    now it went to the cockpit
    I just played something with Plexiglas to see where that leads.

    k-_MG_3589.jpg

    k-_MG_3590.jpg

    k-_MG_3591.jpg

    So I started sticking together piece by piece

    k-_MG_3592.jpg

    yes its okay

    k-_MG_3597.jpg

    k-_MG_3598.jpg

    Next, I have a mini-hinge, generously with the Acrifix, glued into the pulpit and cut on the ship's side a thread in the large hinge (M1.5)

    k-_MG_3612.jpg

    k-_MG_3614.jpg

    Now I have the pages straightened and ready.
    With the pulpit I now have a small hinge which hides the big hinge :stupid::rofl:

    k-_MG_3615.jpg

    So now the flop at all.
    Last week I built landing skids. But the fit absolutely not to the spaceship


    So they come in the showcase.
    I need another solution for that . :wall:

    k-_MG_3609.jpg

    At some point I have to do it, I also want to finally install gas spring for the lid but without the pyramid, the lid is still too unstable.
    Lets go

    k-_MG_3616.jpg


    First attempt went wrong but so I can practice gluing something

    k-_MG_3619.jpg

    k-_MG_3620.jpg


    Next, I will prepare the plates for gluing.
    Thank you all.
    Until next time
     
    Derf likes this.
  13. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016

    Hello ,

    All cut surfaces were sanded and deburred

    k-_MG_3628.jpg

    then cleaned and masked with polyester adhesive tape and glued.

    k-_MG_3632.jpg

    Of course, the first attempt went awry. When masking I kept the scalpel too oblique, so the gap was too big and I could only remove the excess adhesive by force.
    I even had a fugue apart, well that was somehow clear.
    So second try.

    k-_MG_3634.jpg

    second attempt was actually okay except for a minimal blistering

    k-_MG_3637.jpg

    So I tried it a third time.
    But that was even worse, I use number 2

    k-_MG_3658.jpg

    Now I've packed the pyramid clean again for all subsequent operations and cut out the shape of the spaceship

    k-_MG_3662.jpg

    Then the spaceship so that the pyramid fits in perfectly

    k-_MG_3663.jpg

    so that the adhesive and the filler form any unwanted reflections I have all cut edges painted gold.
    Then inserted the pyramid and puttied all the gaps again.

    k-_MG_3666.jpg

    finally progress :cool:

    k-_MG_3667.jpg

    In addition, I built an IO shield for the motherboard.
    Which form suits the concept best?
    Right, a goa´uld sarcophagus.
    For this I cut some aluminum

    k-_MG_3642.jpg

    and bend it in shape

    k-_MG_3646.jpg

    For the outer curves fits 16er tubes

    k-_MG_3648.jpg

    For the circles I took 5mm Plexiglas

    k-_MG_3649.jpg

    I then glued the pipes liberally with the glass fiber spatula and then brushed it with polyester resin

    k-_MG_3650.jpg

    k-_MG_3651.jpg

    k-_MG_3652.jpg

    k-_MG_3657.jpg

    then small aluminum strips were cut and folded.
    Now I've stuck everything with epoxy glue on IO-Shield and set a few decals.

    k-_MG_3659.jpg

    and painted.

    k-_MG_3661.jpg

    Hahahah :banana: like it
    especially since the motherboard remains fully functional, back is open and all ports are fully accessible on the board

    So let's see how far I am next time! :cool:
     
    Derf likes this.
  14. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Hello,

    The first thing I noticed in this photo was that something was wrong on the IO-Shield.
    I did not notice the tinkering, although I had marked lines was the lettering good 5mm wrong.
    I was maybe a little annoyed because the font for the plotter was too small.



    k-_MG_3661.jpg

    okay fixed

    k-_MG_3661a.jpg

    Now it was up to the CPU cooler.
    Unfortunately, this time nothing fit.
    The socket screw was in the way, so I had to adjust that a bit.

    k-_MG_3669.jpg

    To use the M2 SSD, I also had to shorten the backplate by a few Millimeters.

    k-_MG_3674.jpg

    From the pyramid, I have now cut out the window.
    It was rather modest, so I had to file and grind a lot afterwards.

    k-_MG_3675.jpg

    for fear of breaking anything I had to examine the glass for scratches and damage.
    But as far as I can see nothing is broken.

    k-_MG_3679.jpg

    Now it went to the gas pressure damper.
    For this I cut two brackets made of aluminum

    k-_MG_3680.jpg

    then have the holes drilled and fixed the whole with the fiber-reinforced polyester putty.

    k-_MG_3684.jpg

    k-_MG_3687.jpg

    Now everything was embedded again with GRP .

    k-_MG_3688.jpg

    k-_MG_3692.jpg

    to test something I then decided for 2x40N gas spring.
    That means that the lid and the Al'kesh weigh 8kg each time.
    Since the whole upper part was still a bit unstable for me, I spent most of the last week with it
    to reinforce the entire interior and then smooth spatula. That was a shit I tell you because everything is round.

    k-_MG_3693.jpg

    The gas pressure damper I painted gold, the tube itself is then gold chrome foils, matching the tubes and Fittings.

    k-_MG_3695.jpg

    Soooo what can not be missing in an Alkesh?
    A Goaúld bomb for self-destruction :stupid:

    k-_MG_3695a.jpg

    The best way to do that is by deep-drawing so first of all a mold had to be made.
    When digging in my wood waste box, I found these two sections quite well.

    k-_MG_3696.jpg

    So I put these on a threaded rod and, like a glassblower, carefully guided it to the stand grinder.

    k-_MG_3698.jpg

    then the same on the lower part

    k-_MG_3700.jpg

    Then I put both together. With a little sanding dust and wood glue you can easily stir a putty together.

    k-_MG_3701.jpg

    k-_MG_3702.jpg

    The bomb can still wait, for the thermoforming box is currently no place.

    On to the interior, the flair of a spaceship should reflect itself again inside.
    First, the view must disappear to the PSU.
    With a little cardboard I could create a template to put two walls of Plexiglas.
    Just as big as the PSU fits through and I can plug in the cables behind it.
    They then only dress up the visible area so that I can lay cables under the walls


    k-_MG_3703.jpg

    short test, is still working

    k-_MG_3706.jpg

    in front of the PSU comes a hinged door which I bent a short hand from Plexiglas.

    k-_MG_3709.jpg

    This then closes flush with the Alkesh.

    k-_MG_3711.jpg

    Since I am very reluctant to start the circular saw during the week, I have cut the pillars for the interior at the weekend.
    First cut 8mm Plexiglas in 1cm strips.

    k-_MG_3712.jpg

    then fastened with tape and put a 3mm deep cut every 15mm.

    k-_MG_3714.jpg

    k-_MG_3715.jpg

    yes i like it, to be continued

    k-_MG_3717.jpg

    In the mainboard tray I have now the last holes for pipes, res, USB3.0 and HDMI cable set.

    k-_MG_3722.jpg

    And today I started to cut the first pillars.

    k-_MG_3723.jpg

    Okay, thank you until next time.​
     
    spugm1r3 likes this.
  15. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Sooo let's go on.
    There will be a lot to report after this weekend :cool:

    Where do I start?
    I pretty much worked on all areas in parallel, but sorted the images by topic to keep things more manageable.
    The drives were finally fastened.

    k-_MG_3735.jpg

    Since the fiber putty is hard after 5min I held each drive individually in position and lubricated from the inside the putty with finger on it.
    I actually wanted to be able to remove it and glue it at the end, but it was not necessary. After the second fiber putty operation, they held up very well

    k-_MG_3736.jpg

    Then I came up with a brilliant idea.
    For the drive I have cut 4 rounds of 1cm Plexiglas

    k-_MG_3749.jpg

    the edges thereafter roughly chamfered by the router and not ground on purpose but only slightly polished.
    The effect fits very well when all lights up

    k-_MG_3763.jpg

    after that I prepared the original light guide plate and the new one for gluing

    k-_MG_3765.jpg

    and glued to the Acrifix R192. Of course this worked right away (almost where it does not matter :wall: )

    k-_MG_3769.jpg

    The result, unprocessed, perfect. No bubbles no cracks. I do not expect anything more. :heul:

    k-_MG_3770.jpg

    Now the impression that I imagined :banana:

    k-_MG_3772.jpg

    Then I started yesterday to put the holes for the LEDs and glue these.
    3mm blue concave

    k-_MG_3784.jpg

    Part 2. The bomb
    Now I could finally dig out the thermoforming box and deep pull the bomb.
    If someone wants more details just let me know. ;)

    k-_MG_3751.jpg

    k-_MG_3752.jpg

    after I cut out the bomb with scissors and sanded it reasonably straight.
    Have I set a clean cut to the desired height with the Proxxon tool.

    k-_MG_3753.jpg

    Coooooool

    k-_MG_3754.jpg

    then I cut a ring on which I can then stick a LED stripe

    k-_MG_3755.jpg

    k-_MG_3756.jpg
    Now I painted both from the inside without a primer black, because as I said, the green does not fit into the concept.
    I've got 4-5 photos of the bomb or Al'kesh control panel here and only one of them is green. The others are all black.
    Also, each has different symbols.

    k-_MG_3760.jpg

    Which brings me to the next point.
    I could not find a direct font for Goa'uld writing.
    There are either only the gate symbols or it is referred to one of the many ancient Egyptian scriptures.
    None of them would be eligible for the bomb.
    I had then first made a few decals with the ancient script which I was also allowed to manually trace but that did not look good.
    So I traced the font from the photo of the last post and used it.
    Luckily, I could see just 10 icons to assign them 10 LEDs.

    k-_MG_3774.jpg

    Part 3. The holder second try

    The basic idea was already in my head for a while, but I still lacked the final attachment to the Alkesh itself.
    As usual, "hit it and get started" I've just built it and I do not think it's that bad.
    1. Create an ellipse and half close it to the circle.
    This then cut out of 8mm extruded Plexiglas

    k-_MG_3738.jpg

    Then with the router all edges chamfered to 4mm.

    k-_MG_3740.jpg

    Now I cut a 4cm Plexiglas rod at 20 degrees.

    k-_MG_3743.jpg

    the whole is then glued to the base plate

    k-_MG_3744.jpg

    Now the support surface for the Alkesh.
    Also cut here 8mm extruded Plexiglas and bevelled all edges to 2mm.

    k-_MG_3745.jpg

    After that I started to bend both sides by 25 degrees each 4cm from the center.
    Great the photo forget crap!
    4cm from the outside I bent then by 65 degrees.
    Thus I have three points that I can push into the Alkesh and under the radiators still enough space for the ball valves and sufficient supply and exhaust air

    k-_MG_3748.jpg

    Part 4. The pillars

    Just the 8mm slit Plexiglas strip was not enough for me so I cut out of 3mm Plexiglas also 8mm strips and have these all provided with Slots.

    k-_MG_3724.jpg

    so in style

    k-_MG_3726.jpg

    Now I've cut all the pillars exactly to length

    k-_MG_3732.jpg

    and then stuck the 3mm Plexiglas in the offset

    k-_MG_3734.jpg

    Now I began to prime and fill all the pillars.

    k-_MG_3761.jpg

    until I was satisfied with the surface.

    k-_MG_3768.jpg

    Now I stuck all pillars with foil. Similar to the sarcophagus.

    k-_MG_3777.jpg

    Then everything again primed

    k-_MG_3778.jpg

    and painted several times in Gold.

    k-_MG_3781.jpg


    Last but not least part 5. The Alkesh

    At the Alkesh I had to put under the res one more recess so I can put the pump directly under him.

    k-_MG_3727.jpg

    k-_MG_3728.jpg

    Then I positioned the IO-Shield from below behind the radiators

    k-_MG_3729.jpg

    k-_MG_3730.jpg

    Although I actually wanted to do without it, I smoothed the interior once again

    k-_MG_3737.jpg

    everything primed

    k-_MG_3773.jpg

    and then closed the last little holes to waterproof the whole case

    k-_MG_3775.jpg

    The motherboard tray I have already provided with a 1K Alugrundierung and a few layers of primer

    k-_MG_3780.jpg

    So far, so good, nice to finally see a little bit of color :banana:​
     
  16. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016

    So that was a short week but it went forward.

    The base plate of the bracket has been polished.

    k-_MG_3785.jpg

    The acrylic glass rod I have now glued to the base plate.

    k-_MG_3802.jpg

    k-_MG_3804.jpg

    Now I put the holes for the holder in the Alkesh

    k-_MG_3805.jpg

    I then filled the cavity (between the attached trapezoid of the rads and the actual Alkesh bottom) with glass fiber spatula

    k-_MG_3806.jpg

    fits

    k-_MG_3807.jpg

    Now I've polished all edges of the bracket

    k-_MG_3816.jpg

    k-_MG_3817.jpg

    and here is an impression of the holder.
    I still have to glue the overlay to the pipe. Still coming.

    k-Alkesh-Halterung.jpg

    then I began to paint the Alkesh and prepare for it.
    First only primer.

    k-_MG_3808.jpg

    The waves on the top were filled two to three times with the polyester spatula

    k-_MG_3810.jpg

    k-_MG_3811.jpg

    then back primer and a tin of spray filler.
    Now everything looks different and feels much better

    k-_MG_3812.jpg

    k-_MG_3814.jpg

    Now I sanded the whole wet with 400 and had to make only a few corrections.
    The lid here is exactly the same.
    Here you can see quite well the looped points of the first operation and how the areas in between all filled with polyester spatula.

    k-_MG_3818.jpg

    The current status.
    To no new waves or bumps purely to grind through too much grinding I went over only with paper 600 and have primed everything again.
    I will definitely repeat the whole thing 2-4 times until I am satisfied.

    k-_MG_3819.jpg

    Well, we'll see.
    Short week and then there is plenty of time to keep working:cool:
     
    Derf and JargonGR like this.
  17. jackofalltrades

    jackofalltrades 2[H]4U

    Messages:
    3,657
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2006
  18. JargonGR

    JargonGR Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    290
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2006
    Very very very great work!
     
    CapTen likes this.
  19. termite

    termite [H]ardness Supreme

    Messages:
    4,435
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2004
    Hell yes. Work of art!
     
    CapTen likes this.
  20. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    And on it goes, I completely forgot that the Modding Masters already on 2.-3.6.18 is.
    I really wanted to be done so now we have a Deadline.

    As I mentioned earlier, there was a lot to fill and to grind.

    k-_MG_3820.jpg

    k-_MG_3821.jpg

    The IO panel should still be clad with ribs, after long thinks whether Plexi or Alu I have decided jokingly for a PVC design flooring.
    The surface is like everything else slightly arched, so I was reluctant to bend ALU or Plexi for.

    k-_MG_3822.jpg

    I then cut this 16 times in 5mm strips, sanded some edges and glued with mounting glue in 7mm distance on the IO panel

    k-_MG_3823.jpg

    oh so and the Alkesh would then slowly ready for the paint job

    k-_MG_3824.jpg

    k-_MG_3825.jpg

    After curing, I then sanded the supernatants, a little more leveled and primed

    k-_MG_3826.jpg

    As I mentioned in some forums, blue LEDs are not bright enough for the drive so I rebuilt the lens without the holes for LEDs on the back.
    Here is just a white high density LED stripe behind the lens. The effect is really cool because you go blind: rofl:
    but a slight blue tint, I would have been happy.

    k-_MG_3828.jpg

    I have here now two lenses back with light and dark blue painted but except that the light intensity decreases does not bring much synonymous.
    The blue effect comes only from the reflection of the plexiglass on the side, but the light itself remains white.
    No plan then I'll leave it White.

    k-_MG_3830.jpg

    k-_MG_3831.jpg

    so I had a roll of 4mm trim in chrome, they fit perfectly to the front of the Alkesh's.
    Normally, two more lines would cross in the middle, but at this point the Bitspower Dragon is supposed to. As this is very similar to the symbols of Jaffa Tattoos.
    Attached with superglue, keeps bomb

    k-_MG_3833.jpg

    When I wanted to paint the cockpit, I noticed that the part of times something crooked is so I was allowed to build me a new cockpit.

    k-_MG_3835.jpg

    Since the moldings are rounded down, I still had everything neatly trowel here

    k-_MG_3836.jpg

    and so that I can still open the lid properly, the ends were still bevelled.

    k-_MG_3837.jpg

    Now I've taken a day off the weekend and made various patterns for the Alkesh.

    k-_MG_3837a.png

    then plotted out

    k-_MG_3838.jpg

    and glued on the Alkesh

    k-_MG_3839.jpg

    k-_MG_3840.jpg

    I then primed all of them and painted them in a dark gold.
    Just like other surfaces.
    If anyone knows the Tel'Tak, guess what I intend to do ;)

    k-_MG_3841.jpg
    k-_MG_3842.jpg
    k-_MG_3843.jpg

    Well, I experimented with circles and ellipses for a while until I had the radii of the Alkesh.
    These were then plotted out.

    k-_MG_3843a.jpg

    and then stuck to the Alkesh.
    Yes, and that was not easy to get both sides top AND bottom identically. : Banana:
    in parallel, the gold-painted decals were taped again so that only certain areas remain gold.
    The lines are almost exactly the same, the foil is removed later so that only the lines are gold

    k-_MG_3844.jpg
    k-_MG_3845.jpg

    partly also other decals were set which are only painted and then visually stand out from the surface.

    k-_MG_3846.jpg

    So that the color does not run under the foil later on, I painted all the relevant spots a few more times in gold.

    k-_MG_3847.jpg
    k-_MG_3848.jpg

    Well, just before then I primed everything again slightly. This should dry now that I can once again sand everything with 600 wet and can check off the final paint.

    k-_MG_3849.jpg

    The Alkesh is now painted in silver and then the whole spaceship gets a Washing Effect (YouTube)
    As I said before, a dark gray would be the right shade, but with gray I just do not have the metal effect, so it's now painted silver.
    See you next time, now it's moving forward :cool:
     
    Derf and spugm1r3 like this.
  21. JargonGR

    JargonGR Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    290
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2006
    It's obvious that the end result is going to be unique and amazing. I am bookmarking this thread and although I can hardly do most of this, it is a great reference for getting inspiration for small parts in any "down to earth" case mods I might be doing in the future.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2018 at 2:07 PM
    CapTen and spugm1r3 like this.
  22. 1337m0dd3r

    1337m0dd3r [H]ard|Gawd

    Messages:
    1,551
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2002
  23. KazeoHin

    KazeoHin [H]ardness Supreme

    Messages:
    7,076
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2011
  24. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Here I am again.
    This time there were many low blows but it goes ahead.
    Where had I stopped?
    Achso, the Alkesh I have now completely painted outside silver.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and then remove all the tapes.
    Although the film is good for masking because no color runs behind but the paint has decomposed the film that remained the adhesive on the spaceship.
    In addition, you needed so much power to remove that I went to 30% everywhere the color with.
    In the dark places you can see very well the glue residues here.
    Okay, so only the removal of the residue has cost me smooth 3h and from the repair of the paint damage, we need not even talk.
    All affected areas taped again or partly plotted first and repainted.

    [​IMG]

    Now it was up to the interior and the MB Tray.
    At first I painted all of this anthracite,

    [​IMG]

    and then sprayed with two colors, silver and white, marble effect spray. I've put a few shades with gray and black shadow spray and provided everything with a gold glitter spray

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    the very end I still have sealed everything with semi-gloss varnish.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The cockpit I have set off laterally in gold

    [​IMG]

    then finally the upper bracket glued to the acrylic tube.

    [​IMG]

    The rings of the drive could now be glued to the scattering lenses.
    Before that taped so that the diffusion lenses when washing effect not be dirty.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now it went to the LEDs for the drive.
    Without words, I have tried other LED positions but this is the best choice.

    [​IMG]

    I then stuck the stripes in the drives with hot glue

    [​IMG]

    and from the inside everything still wired clean.

    [​IMG]

    on the door to the PSU I have drawn lines with a golden edding

    [​IMG]

    before I stuck the pillars on it. Superglue is just perfect.

    [​IMG]

    Cooooooool :love:

    [​IMG]

    now something went on in the interior.
    Fan PSU and a few Fittings mounted.

    [​IMG]

    The HDMI connection by itself and the USB 3.0, I fixed with hot glue and then poured completely with epoxy glue.

    [​IMG]

    I was able to solder the 230V extension of the SFX Revolution.

    [​IMG]

    On sunday it finally got to the cable.
    Probably the shortest extensions I was allowed to do.
    First, the 24pin ATX cable to about 10cm.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    then the PCIe cable to 20cm, because the original would be too short.

    [​IMG]

    And the 8pin EPS cable I could 1: 1 sleeving.

    [​IMG]

    Ahso and the pump cables are the same.

    [​IMG]

    I do not even know where to start but I have so much spanking this weekend.
    This is not even the half of the photos I had.
    But without words.
    Yeah the digital LEDs for the bomb I wanted to fix with velvet ring with hot glue from the inside but please let brain rain.
    The hot glue has of course destroyed the whole shape :wall:

    [​IMG]

    Well for the bomb, I've still cut a base plate, chamfered the edges and also immediately painted black.

    [​IMG]

    The cockpit I have now provided with Goa'uld font, but without meaning, there would be no room for it.
    I then opted only for optically matching hieroglyphics.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I have dissected a light cord, which I originally wanted to use but then discarded again, and found that lead the only one strand for the mass.
    Just soldered some cables.
    Because of the split tray, I need two cords, but have only bought one and did not want to install two extra separate.
    This should then serve as edge interior lighting.

    [​IMG]

    okay, I then soldered the second string to the controller and it works, yeah!
    Via 5V

    [​IMG]

    Okay for the 5V still a small distributor made in black

    [​IMG]

    glued a 3pin connector to the PCB and soldered it to the battery poles.

    [​IMG]

    Yes and I wanted to use these homemade combs for a long time xD.
    Sorry that no sharp photo at is when you always double photographed everything on cell phone and camera does that happen.

    [​IMG]

    I simply screwed the entire board to the tray from below with a plastic spacer.
    Before, of course, the holes drilled in the tray.
    I also find cool on what you do not come for ideas if you have a long time. :rofl:

    [​IMG]

    Okay and then I stuck the string to the tray, fixed it with adhesive and then reinforced it with epoxy glue from the outside.
    Sorry at such late times I'm always really unable to shoot sharp photos, too dark too much energy drinks and so on

    [​IMG]

    Slowly I'm running out of ideas.
    Oh yes, there was something else: crystal control panel, but first I want to finish the coating so that all tapes can go away.
    The pyramid still has to be polished, the bomb is still to be programmed and otherwise only minor things

    THX a lot
    Capten​

    All right the first 20 Pictures. I hope everybody fix it the next view days
    k-_MG_3850.JPG k-_MG_3853.JPG k-_MG_3856.JPG k-_MG_3857.JPG k-_MG_3859.JPG k-_MG_3860.JPG k-_MG_3862.JPG k-_MG_3863.JPG k-_MG_3864.JPG k-_MG_3865.JPG k-_MG_3868.JPG k-_MG_3869.JPG k-_MG_3872.JPG k-_MG_3873.JPG k-_MG_3874.JPG k-_MG_3875.JPG k-_MG_3876.JPG k-_MG_3877.JPG k-_MG_3878.JPG k-_MG_3881.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2018 at 4:15 PM
  25. IdiotInCharge

    IdiotInCharge Not the Idiot YOU are Looking for

    Messages:
    5,718
    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2003
    Came for the name, didn't leave disappointed-

    But the last set of pictures didn't load :D
     
  26. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    Yes i see it, no plan what happened. I can see all pics in the editor but not in the post


    And the next 18 pics.

    k-_MG_3883.JPG k-_MG_3885.JPG k-_MG_3888.JPG k-_MG_3889.JPG k-_MG_3890.JPG k-_MG_3891.JPG k-_MG_3892.JPG k-_MG_3894.JPG k-_MG_3897.JPG k-_MG_3899.JPG k-_MG_3900.JPG k-_MG_3906.JPG k-_MG_3907.JPG k-_MG_3908.JPG k-_MG_3909.JPG k-_MG_3910.JPG k-_MG_3911.JPG k-_MG_3912.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2018 at 4:16 PM
  27. CapTen

    CapTen n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2016
    The pictures are not uploaded but I do not understand why? Has always worked. If I upload everything individually, there is an image limit