• Some users have recently had their accounts hijacked. It seems that the now defunct EVGA forums might have compromised your password there and seems many are using the same PW here. We would suggest you UPDATE YOUR PASSWORD and TURN ON 2FA for your account here to further secure it. None of the compromised accounts had 2FA turned on.
    Once you have enabled 2FA, your account will be updated soon to show a badge, letting other members know that you use 2FA to protect your account. This should be beneficial for everyone that uses FSFT.

First Time Water Cooling Setup, Thoughts?

HopkinsProgramming

HopkinsProgramming

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 30, 2006
Messages
430
I am planning to add water cooling to my new rig (seen in my sig).

I am currently only planning to add in my processor (Q6600) and north bridge (680i) into the loop. I'm not gonna bother adding in my graphics card until I upgrade to an 8800 sometime late this year. The processor will be running at 3GHz or above, most likely with a 1333MHz or higher FSB.

I am also planning to use 3/8" ID tubing for this project (thats what seems to fit best with the parts).

What are your thoughts on the parts and pieces I have picked out below. If I've left anything out, please let me know. Thanks! :)I want decent parts, but I also don't want the most expensive, lest I go broke trying to cool down my computer. ;)

Also, on a side note, I am looking for some good 120mm fans to go with the liquid cooling. If I can find some really good ones (55+ CFM and <25dbA, or as close as possible), I would like to replace all the fans in my TJ07 with the new fans. I think the Scythe S-FLEX SFF21E comes the closest thus far. Opinions?
 
Since you're planning on using 3/8"id tubing, you can get equivalent (if not better performing) components for much less:

CPU block:
The new Koolance CPU block doesn't actually look that bad. If you like the looks of it, you're probably ok. Alternatively, the Apogee GT has been tested a lot more (remember to add some 3/8" barbs, or get some G 1/4" compression fittings from Koolance/elsewhere).
NB block:
I'd recommend an MCW30 instead, assuming it fits. Whatever NB block you plan on using (assuming you do indeed want/need an NB block), check to make sure it won't have clearance issues with your GPU. As long as the block isn't overly restrictive, most anything should be able to cool a NB down just fine.
SB cooling:
Assuming you're ok with the added noise of that fan, go ahead with it. For a silent solution, an HR-05 should be able to clear your older GPU, but check as well.
Pump/Reservoir:
I'm pretty sure Koolance copied Swiftech's MCRES-1000 with the RP-1000BK, but Koolance's does have some extra monitors/display. I find that stuff excessive, but if the Koolance version is worth the extra $120, you won't lose that much performance (the RP-1000BK has a 90* elbow at the pump intake - not good, but not life threatening).
Radiator:
A BIXII is fine for what you're cooling, but the MCR220 R1ck linked is much better suited to the lower speed fans you plan on using. Once again, remember to add some 3/8" barbs/compression fittings.
Tubing:
Be sure if you choose all Koolance compression fittings, make sure you only use Koolance's tubing. Compression fittings need a specific outer diameter tubing to not leak. I'm not that familiar with the compression fittings Koolance uses, but the 3/8"od tubing they sell has a 14mm/0.55"od, while most other 3/8"id tubing you'll see has a 5/8"od, which may not fit.
Coolant:
Koolance's mixture is just distilled water and antifreeze at a 4:1 ratio or so IIRC. Alternatively, you can get the same look and coolant with some blue Pentosin (get 2 bottles and mix at the aforementioned 4:1 distilled water : Pentosin to get the same look and effect as Koolance's formula). I'd suggest some Pentosin and distilled water instead of Koolance's.
Fans:
The Scythe's you linked are incredibly expensive (although you can get them at Petra's for $6 less). Yate Looms are very popular today, such as D12SM-12 (70cfm, 33dBA) or D12SL-12 (47cfm, 28dBA). With the money you save over the Scythes, you can take your pick of fan controllers (I prefer Sunbeams for plain fan controlling).

Hope that helps.
 
Yeah, I've got a big big personal Bias against Koolance... Having sold their products for awhile, only to face massive returns, short-term accelerated corrosion problems (except for their new gold-plating process) and general overpricing and lack of QC... I can't recommend them.

If I were to change anything though, it'd be the CPU block. At least the rest of the Koolance pieces are alright. That CPU block, however, is just a moderately updated version of their intial design... Much better alternitives exist. The Dtek Fuzion with 3/8 barbs would be MUCH better for a quad core CPU IMO.

Yate loons by FAR for the fans.
 
Generally good suggestions coming in.

Don't forget on the fans, I'm not under-volting them or using a [goofy] controller. I want a fan that does its best at the normal 12V. Besides, I dislike noise, and I had a 30dbA fan that annoyed the sh*t out of me, so no ifs-ands-or-buts, i want a fan under 25dbA.

Since this is my first build, I want some ease of setup - hence no messing with fan voltages and controllers, getting ready-made coolant, etc etc.

Since there's two good votes for the other radiator, I will look into that one also.

There are so many people, each with different opinions between the 3 major chip block people (at least that ive encountered) - for Koolance, Danger Den, & Swiftech. I've had my eye on Koolance for a while and almost bought one of their pre-built case+cooling setups a while back, so I'm inclined to give them a try.

I'll never really know the best of the parts unless I try em all (which I have no desire or finds to do lol), so the best I can do, is pick the parts that I believe will bring me benefit and match up with what I already have. :)

Thanks guys!
 
Ok guys,

I think that I may well change my setup to go for the cheaper, but better, parts.

So, my new question is - Is there a nice panel (black bezel), that could provide a similar function like the Koolance RP-1000BK's front panel would have? I really liked the idea of having some temperature sensors.

Thanks!
 
You might also want to consider going to 8mm id tubing and use push-fits. You get essentially the same cooling capability and it will be much easier to route your tubing. Plus no hose barbs to worry about. :D
 
HopkinsProgramming said:
Ok guys,

I think that I may well change my setup to go for the cheaper, but better, parts.

So, my new question is - Is there a nice panel (black bezel), that could provide a similar function like the Koolance RP-1000BK's front panel would have? I really liked the idea of having some temperature sensors.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

D-Tek Fuzion CPU block performs much better and is basically the reigning champ.

The MCW30 is a good northbridge block that is universal. Another alternative, but more expensive, are the EK chipset blocks.

I'd consider either a Laing D5 or a DDC-2 with Petra's aftermarket top. You can plug in whatever fittings you want and get the benefit of the performance boost coming from the top.

For reservoirs, I'd stay away from bay reservoirs as they tend to not only leak/crack, but they're annoyingly noisy as well. The Swiftech MCRES-micro bleeds the fastest out of all the ones I've owned and is dirt cheap to boot.

I'm pretty sure everyone else has it covered. I'd just stay away from Koolance if I were you. There are only two systems that ever sprung a leak on me and that's my Koolance Exos-2 and my Thermaltake Big Water kit. I'd save some money and go the custom route. You won't look back.
 
Ok... Here is my new parts list, look good? :cool:
(Yes, I did decide to change to 1/2" ID I believe)

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT
Northbridge: Swiftech MCW30
Southbridge: eVGA South Bridge Fan
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 (Variable Speed)
Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 (Includes D-Tek barbs)
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO
Barbs for CPU & NB: D-Tek (G 1/4" Thread, 1/2" OD)
Hose Clamps: Generic
Anti-Crimping goodness: Horizon Blue UV Anti-Crimp (CPU & NB are close on the 680i)

Now... Do you have any suggestions for the coolant? Please keep in mind, I do not want to have to mix distilled water and a bottle of goo in nine parts this to one parts that or whatever. I'm going for the bottle of coolant that I can more or less just dump in and go. With that said, here's the two I found (going for blue & UV reactive ;))
PrimoChill PC ICE UV Blue (32oz) OR Fluid XP+ Extreme UV Midnight Blue (32oz)

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys! :D
 
I highly suggest you don't get the pour it in kind. Go to a pharmacy and get a baby liquid medicine syringe as it is marked in cc's. You might want to read this thread in case you already haven't. Unless you are trying to eek out the last OC you can get, your 1/2" tubing won't make any difference.
 
HopkinsProgramming said:
Ok... Here is my new parts list, look good? :cool:
(Yes, I did decide to change to 1/2" ID I believe)

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT
Northbridge: Swiftech MCW30
Southbridge: eVGA South Bridge Fan
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 (Variable Speed)
Radiator: Swiftech MCR-220 (Includes D-Tek barbs)
Reservoir: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO
Barbs for CPU & NB: D-Tek (G 1/4" Thread, 1/2" OD)
Hose Clamps: Generic
Anti-Crimping goodness: Horizon Blue UV Anti-Crimp (CPU & NB are close on the 680i)

Now... Do you have any suggestions for the coolant? Please keep in mind, I do not want to have to mix distilled water and a bottle of goo in nine parts this to one parts that or whatever. I'm going for the bottle of coolant that I can more or less just dump in and go. With that said, here's the two I found (going for blue & UV reactive ;))
PrimoChill PC ICE UV Blue (32oz) OR Fluid XP+ Extreme UV Midnight Blue (32oz)

Thanks for all of your suggestions guys! :D
Click to expand...

Looks great. I wouldn't change anythiing except for the fluid you're using. That stuff is all hype and really doesn't provide much benefit.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top