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dying psu??

F

fallnangl

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 4, 2003
Messages
277
hasnt even had 25hrs use on it. a real pc power 350watt silence blue psu. worked great came home and comp was off. booted the comp on and got to login and the it sht down changed psu and worked fine tried on 2 diff other boards and worked ok for like 3 boots then nothing until i hit the orange voldt switch back and forth and then it works for like 15 secs. wtf? what could be wrong with it anyone ever have anything like this happen to them? is it fixable?thanx
 
what PSU?
PC Power and Cooling makes a Silencer 360 but not a 350 Blue
is the make "real pc power" ?

but those are classic symptoms of an overloaded PSU
just not enough amps on (likely) the +12V rail
however a PCP&C silencer 360 has 21A on that rail
 
I loved the real pc power Supplies.

However, as far as I was concerned, I thought that they went out of business...

They are a very solid PS.
 
well a $30 out of business 550 watt PSU
with all of 20A on the +12V rail

is likely to be more like more like 13 Amps in a real world operating temperature
if your lucky

why dont you post your full config and I'll run the numbers
(any thing that uses power)


POWER SHMOWER by Mike Chin

or How PSU Power Ratings Mean Almost Nothing

A frustrating fact about PSUs is that there does not appear to be a stringent or regulated standard for reporting, advertising and labeling rated power. This is despite the existence of standards like ATX2.03 or Intel ATX12V.

There are well-established standards for measuring and rating HDD capacity, an engine's horsepower, or the heat generated by a furnace... but not one for how much power a PSU can deliver. There are so many cases of people with "450W" PSUs having power stability issues running a system that can't possoibly draw more than 150W. And "300W" units that keep running where the "450W" units are faltering.

It's not just about bad PSUs vs better ones. It's a dumb situation caused by uncontrolled marketing competition. Real regulation would bring PSUs out of snake oil territory and into a more sensible consumer-friendly terrain.

There are many ways PSU makers fudge to make their units seem more powerful.

1) Out and out lying. You add up the power on all the lines in many PSUs and they fall short of the rated power by 10, 20 30W or even more.

There are more sophisticated ways:

2) Limit the AC input voltage to a very narrow tolerance. The best PSUs are able to deliver their rated power given a decent range of AC input power, say 90~130V for a 120V unit. It's much more demanding to produce 300W w/90VAC input than with 120VAC, so what some PSU makers will detail in their tech specs (usually not in their consumer brochures) is to specify 115-120VAC for input power. A PSU specified this way will not deliver full power if the AC voltage sags, if there is a brown-out. Surely it causes instability more often than a PSU rated to deliver full power with 90-130VAC.

3) Specify a low operating temperature for rated output. This is quite common, but again not often seen in consumer brochures, but rather tech spec sheets provided usually only on demand by engineers or corp buyers. A typical PSU operating temp statement is somthing like this:

0ºC ~25ºC for full rating of load, decrease to zero Watts O/P at 70ºC

Examine what that says. Full power (let's say 400W) is available when the unit is at 0ºC ~25ºC. Hmmm. Think about this.

Have you ever felt air blown out of a PSU in a PC running absolutely full tilt (which it would have to do to get anywhere near 400W output) that felt cool to the fingers? 25ºC airflow would feel exactly that: Cool, given that normal body temperature is 37 °C.

So this PSU cannot deliver full rated power when its temperature goes over 25ºC. OK, what happens to the max power output capacity above that temp? It decreases gradually so that by the time the PSU temp reaches 70ºC, the PSU cannot deliver any power at all. So if you assume that this power drop as temp rises is linear, then max power capacity will drop by ~9W for every degree over 25ºC.

Now having examined as many PSUs as I have over the last 2~3 years, I have to say there's not a single PSU in ANY PC I have ever used or examined that would not measure at least 30~35ºC almost anywhere inside the PSU under almost any kind of load. And if/when it is pushed, 45ºC is nothing at all, especially for or near hot running components like voltage regulators.

So let's say 40ºC is a fairly typical temp inside a PSU. This 400W rated unit would actually be able to deliver a max of just 220W at that temp. Hmmm. Interesting, isn't it? At 50ºC, the available power would drop to just 130W. No wonder some PSUs have 3 fans each capable of 50 cfm!!

Here's a simple fact: Really high quality PSUs are actually rated for full power output at as high as 40ºC. The trick is get a hold of the spec sheets that tell such information so you can compare apples to apples. Or ask.
Click to expand...
 
http://takaman.jp/D/?M=PcQQQbdHhSAgHJTHiHSkG5@0DaH9VEn@roG5HhXgYbZAZavHCMP&english
+3.3V @ 5.1A
+5V @ 17.4A
+12V @ 24.5A

its not suprising that PSU doesnt run that config
as mentioned in the quote above, there is the difference in the temperature for rating a supply and the likely operating temperature
and even though the figures are the theoretical maximum draw of all the components
which never actually occurs
you can see what happens when a rail is overloaded
hopefully nothing is fried

you need a new supply, that one might be OK for some other config,
but certainly not that one

and your in for sticker shock too
your looking at $100 and up for a reputable supply that will do the job
and Id highly advise you get an ATX12V v2.01 compliant supply as well

Id recommend the Antec Neopower
Enermax Noisetaker Series v2.0
Fortron Blue Storm

of if you really want top shelf
a PC Power and Cooling 510 Turbo Cool Express
 
thanx im not saying that what u say isnt true but this psu was hooked up to my mini atx mobo and got the same results(epia 10000,256mb,80gb) and got the same results. and also im running an antec true blue psu in sys 1 and its only 350. any other guess's? seriously thanx for taking the time :)
 
well that isnt exactly a well known brand
and is typically placed in the generic \ doorstop category
trying to power that big rig, easily could have done it to death

if you can RMA it do so
if not pop itt open and see if there is anything obviously amiss or if there is a fuse you can see
 
well its defiantly cant be rma'ed o well was going to put in my car but time to shop for a new psu. i really appreciate the help though ice czar
 
Ice Czar, thanks for that link. I was always thinking my Antec Truepower 550W was overkill for my rig but it turns out it's just about right.

P4 2.4Ghz 800FSB
Asus P4P800 Deluxe
(2) 256 Mushkin DDR466
Saphire 9600 XT
(2) WD 36GB Raptors
(1) Seagate 40GB
(1) WD 30GB
Sony DRU-500A DVDRW
Via 7.1 sound card
Linksys Wireless PCI 802.11g
Mitsumi Floppy
6 case fans
Kingwin water cooling kit (CDROM bay based resivor and pump)

I haven't had any power sags or stability issues. All my drives stay up and running and the ambient is around 34 - 38 Celsius. Cpu stays around 32 and video hits 40 Celsius.
 
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