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Dtek or dangerden?

K

kronchev

[H]F Junkie
Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
12,051
alright now I'm thinking about my very soon to be WC setup and Ive come to a crossroads


one way is a Maze4 with a black ice pro radiator

other way is a dtek spir@l (black topped :rolleyes: ) with a JR-120 radiator

ipkonfig did a review of systems using both those and the dtek performed better. however i dont know dtek stuff that well, and the aluminum top really bothers me. i know its anodized but still...aluminum + copper + water = super bad.
 
I went Maze 4 with copper top and a heatercore.

And I've also seen threads where someone opened up their Spir@l and found that the anodization coating had partially worn away...or just hadn't worked well in the first place.
 
Get your lazy ass back to your original thread.

Originally posted by Giblet Plus!
Why spend $45 for a decent block when you can spend $50 for a great one? Get the white water.

You can just screw fans to a heatercore, but using a shroud is better. If you're one of the 90% of the people on this forum that like having stuff done for you, Dtek sells premade shrouds for their Pro and JR120 heatercores.

Inline is easy. Most setups that use a res are inline anyway. I would recommend a t-line setup (KISS again). You just need the T fitting, some extra tubing for a fill line, and something to cap the fill line with.

I would avoid Hydor pumps. They have some impeller problems. Go with the swiftech MCP600, a Danner Mag 3 or an Eheim.
Click to expand...
 
I just bought the maze4 with the lucite top. Big selling point was it was on sale for $35 at dangerden.com. Added $2 for the chrome fittings and stainless steel mounting hardware.

Question: Would cooling be improved with a copper top because that would create more surface area for the water grab heat from?

And so far it seem's to me water cooling isn't much cooler than a good HSF. Just quieter. Is there a way to get it as cold as possible without dealing with the whole pelt business?

MBM reads my cpu temps at about 39C idle 42C load. That's with an Thermalright AX7 HS and temp controlled Tt smart case fan2.
Will watter do any better or worse?

I also have a 9700pro with a 1u aluminum HSF mounted to it. I also bought a waterblock for it. Will the water do better than the 1u hsf?
 
water cooling can get your temps closer to ambient, at much lower noise levels. The only way to get icey water temps is either chill the water, by using a chiller or pelts. Or to drop the ambient temps...ie use cooler air to pass over the rad. For me water-cooling will provide overclockability at bearable noise levels.
 
dtek spir@l (black topped ) with a JR-120 radiator

Would be my choice between the two choice you stated.

Heatercore is better then the black ice. Also get the shroud to go with the jr-120
 
Neither one. If you want the very best check here: www.polarflo.com Read the reviews. There seems to be something to that process they perform to the contacting surface.
Kinda pricey though.
 
Originally posted by kronchev
alright now I'm thinking about my very soon to be WC setup and Ive come to a crossroads


one way is a Maze4 with a black ice pro radiator

other way is a dtek spir@l (black topped :rolleyes: ) with a JR-120 radiator

ipkonfig did a review of systems using both those and the dtek performed better. however i dont know dtek stuff that well, and the aluminum top really bothers me. i know its anodized but still...aluminum + copper + water = super bad.
Click to expand...

kronchev -
if you want to go with the dtek but the aluminum top is buggin' the h311 out of you (I'm not much on it myself) there are some ways to get around it.

the more expensive option:
http://www.logiccooling.com/Merchan...re_Code=LC&Product_Code=WWTop&Category_Code=W
^bolt on copper replacement for the aluminum top.

the less expensive route (if you have some tools handy or know someone that does):
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=253&step=2
get a WW, measure it, then order a .25" thick copper bar that is approximately the same size as the top plate. you would probably have to lap it a little, clean up the edges, drill the required screw holes and then drill and tap the holes for the fittings. not really a whole lot of tools required -- a 3/8" tap, a decent drill, some drill bits and some 3M wet/dry should handle it.
you could use the original top to line up the hole positioning and the rest of the spacing...

other options:
the polarflo - the new ones are supposed to be good.
another new one:
http://www.logiccooling.com/Merchan...ore_Code=LC&Product_Code=Evo4&Category_Code=W
does that design look the least bit familar to anyone or is it just me?? lol.

if you wanted the best of the best (and they were still available) -- the silver cascade.

between the black ice and the dtek core - go with the dtek. better performance and much more bang for the buck overall.
definitely get the shroud to match up with it.
 
To be honest man....I love my TC-4 Rev2...ive modded mine slightly and good god it performs very well :)


idle1.jpg



Im running the aluminum top with it...since the acrylic D-tek uses is very soft and prone to cracking...Danger den uses lexan..which is ALOT harder to crack over all...seems to act more like "glass" where as the D-tek stuff when tightened down...smashes then cracks :(
 
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