Danner Mag3 water pump.. reliability concerns

Astroman

Gawd
Joined
Jun 14, 2003
Messages
684
Just a quick FYI for anyone out there who may be considering setting up a water cooling system from DIY parts and components.

System in sig. The Danner pump started leaking from the inlet barb threads. I used a nice even layer of teflon tape and had installed the barb finger tight. The reason for this was concern that the housing piece the barb threads into is notorious for cracking when overtightened.

Well, about 3 months after installing the W/C system, it just started sweating a bit. I noticed the water level in my rez slowing going down, I'd have to add a few ounces every day to keep it topped off.

Well, last night it seemed to really be leaking fast. I could actually see water puddling up under the pump. So, I turned off the PC overnight and awoke to a BONE DRY rez. Good thing I was paying attention. Anyhow, I had tightened the barb down with an adjustable-end wrench, and when I did so the housing cracked, just like I was afraid of.

So, I took it all apart, grabbed a tube of epoxy, and went to town. I unscrwed the impeller housing cover, which is where the inlet barb threads in. I didn't want epoxy getting inside the impeller or anything. When I went to remove the 4 screws holding it together, one just spun. The plastic "poles" that extend from the main pump housing, which are threaded inside, are very easy to break off of the main housing. This one broke off trying to UNSCREW it!

well, I just said hell with it and epoxied the whole thing back together to get a really good (unserviceable) seal. When I went to screw it back together, another one broke. Oh well.. more epoxy ;).

So, moral of the story is that this pump excells in its NUMBERS on paper, ie good head, good flow, etc.. but, it is a little fragile. I say this as someone who is very careful and gentle with these kinds of things. I'm not some big overmuscling dummy. I did the volt mod on my IS7 before I upgraded, with no troubles... I tell you this just so you understand I have steady hands and am technically knowledgeable..

yet this pump breaks very easily, so my advice is that if you want to get one of these pumps, get some epoxy as well, and when you get the pump use epoxy NOT teflon tape or thread sealer. Also, I recommend you silicone or epoxy the housing together to give some backup to those weak screw holes.

hope this helps someone.
 
I think the pump needs a softer O-ring and screws that go deeper inside. That should help. Also, you dont need to super tighten the screw or barbs, and make sure the inlet barb is plastic!!! I cannot stress this enough. Nothing should happen if you take care of the pump.
 
Yes, I know what you mean, I did use a brass barb for the inlet, but I only made it finger tight.. my mistake I guess, but even still, it doesnt' hurt anything to just epoxy the hell out of it!
 
With my dannermag, what I found was that h2o was leaking around the o ring seal at the impeller. My resolution was to apply some RTV, marketed under a number of brands, around the o ring seal at the impeller. Fortunately for me I found this leak during the 24 hr leak test. Since then, this has not been a problem for me.

IC7- Max3 2.8C @ 3.53 GHz & 1.55VDC. Geil PC4200 @2.7Vdc, 3,4,4,8. 2x 37Gb Raptor Raid 0, Lite-on 8X DVD-RW, Sony 16X DVD, Sapphire 9600XT. DangerDen RBX, 875 NB WB & VGA WB. '77 Bonniville Rad w/ 4 120 MM Vantec Stealth. DannerMag 500 pump, dual quadbay res.
 
My water level seems to be going down a bit but the vibration absorbing sock the Mag3 sits on doesent seem wet at all? How long does epoxy take to set? I should seal this thing up when I overhaul again.
 
z3r0- said:
My water level seems to be going down a bit but the vibration absorbing sock the Mag3 sits on doesent seem wet at all? How long does epoxy take to set? I should seal this thing up when I overhaul again.


It depends on the kind of epoxy you get. You can get quick setting stuff that sets within 5-10 minutes, or stuff like JB Weld that takes upwards of a day or so. As a general rule, the longer it takes to set, the stronger it is. I would use a stronger epoxy too, because some have the tendency to absorb water, and a stronger epoxy is probably going to do so to a lesser extent, if at all.
Keep in mind that epoxy is permanent. There are other soultions like silicone based sealants. Whichever you use, be sure to rough up the mating surface a little to give the adhesive something to grab onto.
 
everyone says that danner's have a leaking o-ring problem, but once you fix that, its fine. unfortunatly i overtightened a screw when putting it sealed back together and broke that off :rolleyes: so i say, hell with them. if they dont come working i dont care
 
kronchev said:
everyone says that danner's have a leaking o-ring problem, but once you fix that, its fine. unfortunatly i overtightened a screw when putting it sealed back together and broke that off :rolleyes: so i say, hell with them. if they dont come working i dont care

Mag3 parts:

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/pumps/104075.html

http://www.reefgeek.com/products/categories/pumps/103860.html

I bought a used Mag3 and the impeller housing was cracked. The replacement has worked great. I sealed everything up with teflon sealant and Goop.
 
kronchev said:
everyone says that danner's have a leaking o-ring problem, but once you fix that, its fine. unfortunatly i overtightened a screw when putting it sealed back together and broke that off :rolleyes: so i say, hell with them. if they dont come working i dont care


my thoughts exactly, which is why I just got some quick-setting epoxy and now I'm done with it. Yes, its permanent, but I was pissed. I want something to work when I buy it. Anyhow, what's wrong with something so permanent, if it works? so far, no more leaks, no more air bubbles, no more funny noise (cavitation)
 
I had a Mag3 in my setup. After reading about people comming home to drained and cooked rigs I decided it wasn't worth the risk. I grabbed an MCP-600 instead and haven't looked back. I still usr the Mag to flush my loop out but that's about it.
 
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