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case painting

B

bob

2[H]4U
Joined
Feb 13, 2002
Messages
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I have two air compressors. One 1970's Devilbliss "Standalone" inline oiless 1/3hp, and one 12v car tire pumper.

The devilbliss has a short stroke, and a wide bore. about 1"x4.5". Low pressure, high volume (for a 1/3hp). Id estimate it gets up to 80PSI, I will have to check after I finish restoring it.

The car tire compressor, I had a scheme to set up a small complete system. I got a 1Lb Coleman propane tank, and tapped it. The I put the hose to the tank. It took forever for the little propane tank to built up pressure. It gets up to 160Psi, but doesnt move much air.

I assume the DeVileBliss will work fine with a walmart paint gun using an air tank, or just a airbrush with no tank.

For an airbrush, my local pawnshop has this airbrush for $10. Would it be fine for painting small things on computer cases (CDrom drive faces, buttons, small panels...).

I already know how to prepare metal for painting, and paint. But what about plastic? There is something that has to be put on it before using regular car paint?
 
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I also paint using a small 6gal Porter Cable pancake style compressor & spray gun I got at Lowes. I've only used auto paint once ( it's to expensive for me) & the front bezel which was plastic I prepped just like the rest of the case. It worked out ok. I did use a clear coat out of a rattle can for the final finish. I very happy with the results. If & when the weather warms up I have a full tower case I working on next.
 
ick dude. Buy a 20-30 gallon compressor. I wouldn't hook a gun up to anything less. What do you need painted?

For plastic parts, use an adhesion promoter.
 
there is a small pancake compressor for 79$ i can get. But I need to paint small things. Would that cheap airbrush be better than using spray cans?
 
What I use is what they call a touchup paint gun. I think it holds approx 8 fluid oz of paint. I usually paint one of the side panels & then let the compressor catch up, then do another, etc etc. It works out ok doing it this way. I also have a small Badger brand airbush. It is to small to paint a case with. It would be ok to paint faceplates & such with, but way to small for say a 16 X 16 side panel. You also have to thin down the paint. Read on the can what to thin it down with. I hope this helps.
 
I started to paint my devilbliss for practice. I used a wirebrush attachment on my drill, then a screwdriver to tear off the rest of the paint. I soaked it down with an 80 cent can of carb cleaner, and I figured if paint can survive a wire brusher and a good soaking of carb cleaner, it can stay.

I cranked on the 2Kw wallmount heater, and propped up the compressor base so it would get warm, but not too hot. 5 hours later, the enamel based paint was pretty much dry and wasnt tacky. I turned the heater off for the night, and came back two days later to spray on red 1$ rattlecan. The white primer coat immediantly turned to the look of a wet rag.

It looked more like a lizzard skin. Wrinkly and scaley. The white base coat started to peel off bad when I wiped off the red paint with lacquer thinner. was the 90 degree heat, then 30 degree 2 day period too stressfull, or was it just the cold that screwed it up?

I dont want this to be happening with real paint when I paint a case, or even with a 1$ can of wallmart spraypaint. its a lot of labor into the prep work wasted.
 
1st question is are the 2 paints you used (primer & topcoat) compatible. I try to use the same brand of primer/topcoat/clearcoat. This way I know it's all gonna work. 2nd question is I like to leave my fresh painted project in the warm heat for at least 48hrs. This gives it time to cure. I have a small workshop in my garage which I keep around 50-55 degrees, but when I paint I crank it up to around 70-75 for 2-3 days for the paint to cure.

So points to remember:
Make sure all your paint is compatiable with each other & keep it warm for at least 48hrs after you paint. I hope this helps.
 
the white stuff I used for a primer, it says Shellac on the can. Its a very thick sticky stuff whatever it is. that might have been my problem.
 
the white stuff I used for a primer, it says Shellac on the can. Its a very thick sticky stuff whatever it is. that might have been my problem.

Yep they don't mix very well together, ( kind of like twinkies & beer) You need to strip it down to the bare metal. After that clean it real good to get all the residue off the surface. I take my sidepanels to the kitchen sink & use dishwashing soap. Dry it off real good & try not to touch the surface with your bare hands (your bare hands will transfer body oil to the surface). Then buy some primer & paint that will work together (I buy the same brand). Shoot it with primer & let it dry overnight. Wetsand to make sure there are no high or low spots, wash it again, and reprimer. Once you are happy with the results of the primer, use a tack cloth on the surface & shoot some paint on it. Let if dry at least 24hrs. Wetsand, clean it up again & shoot a 2nd coat of color. If you are happy after the 2nd coat then you can use a clearcoat for protection & shine. It just takes a lot of elbow grease &
paientice. I've had to redo some of my sidepanels 2-3 times before I was happy with the results. It's a labor of love.
 
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