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can you OC with...

O

option141

Gawd
Joined
Dec 7, 2003
Messages
880
I was wondering if it was possible to OC with this type of setup:

1.6 or 1.8 AMD duron (Applebred)
512MB of PC100 Ram (1 256 stick, 2 128s)
ASUS A7V8X-X KT400 Chipset MOBO.

sorry, but i've never OCed, let alone OC sort of ancient stuff =p

thanks,
seth
 
Sure you can. Most anything is OCable...you just have to figure out how to do it. If that CPU is multiplier unlocked then you're golden. Otherwise you're stuck with OCing the bus which means your RAM/PCI/AGP buses may be affected.
 
With three sticks of PC100, you won't see the FSB go very far, unless you are lucky. Your best bet is to up the multiplier a bit.
 
hmmm

lets say i order an OEM duron...is there anyway to tell if it's unlocked without fireing it up?

because i'm debain a heatsink/fan combo

TY for the info so far
 
Hell yes it's possible.
I'm running my 1.6@2.33 right now, on an AOpen KT400 board, and was doing it on a KT266 board until recently. I got the Duron for 38$ at a local PCClub (worth checking out if you have one nearby), and am using a three year old, 15$ HSF.
You most likely won't get an unlocked duron, as only the first couple batches were unlocked. To get around the lock, you will have to convert the processor to a mobile chip, and bump it's maximum mobile multiplier up to give you access to higher multipliers, as you do not have a PCI/AGP lock. Once you have converted it to a mobile chip you should be able to change the multiplier using software in windows. More on this later. One warning: if your motherboard uses and AMI bios, this process will be much more difficult, as the AMI bios has this nasty habit of trying to boot mobile chips at their maximum multiplier (at least on older boards they do).
http://fab51.com/cpu/barton/athlon-e23.html is a great resource for figuring out what bridges do what, as you have to modify a couple to get this to work. First, you need to close the third L5 (counting from the left, with the text right side up) by scraping the walls of the laser cut with a small, sharp object (I used a push pin), and then filling the pit with a conductive material. I used a rear window defogger repair kit, which can be found at just about any automotive parts store. It'll run you 6-10$, depending on the store, but will give you enough paint to do a few dozen processors. Next you need to either cut all the L6 bridges, or do the easy thing and perform the exact same procedure on the second bridge from the left, closing it. If this procedure is done correctly, you should have a mobile duron with a maximum multiplier of 24x, but should boot as at it's stock multiplier.
Once you've booted back into windows, download either CPUMSR http://www.cpuheat.wz.cz/html/CPUMSR_main.htm , or CrystalCPUID http://crystalmark.info/?lang=en . These two programs will allow you to adjust your processor multiplier on the fly. I recommend using CrystalCPUID, as it has a multiplier management feature that allows you to set a low, medium, and high multiplier that it will adjust to according to the load on your processor. I combined this feature with the SilentTek feature on my AOpen board (controls fan speeds according to processor temp) so that the 80mm 7v fan I've got ducted to my processor is sufficient for cooling it when I'm doing anything but gaming. Once my processor starts getting hot, the main fan kicks back on.
 
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