Best radiators

bitbum said:
I seem to recall that BIP was intended for high CFM applications and would perform very well in that configuration while the Swiftech QPs intended for low CFM and may not perform as well as high CFM BIP, but silent. Not sure what the difference would be exactly but I would prefer the silence.
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The difference between the MCR and the BIP, in terms of performance, is near zero. No more than 5% with fans between 700 and 2000 rpms.

I really prefer the painting on the BIP's, so I typically go with them over the MCR's, and they're priced to sell often here on the forums ;)
 
Modder man said:
both will be horizontal in a xaser VI
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I also have a xaser VI case i and would love to know where your putting your radiators. The only real spot i have is the bottom but it will only fit a 120.2. can you post a pic when you get them in?
 
Those fans will drive you crazy....

Someone is selling a BIP2 here on the forums for like 35$. You should check it out.
 
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i know they would be really loud....but couldnt i get them down quite a bit with a fan controller.....for reference i run my 260s at 100% fan when gaming, How would it compare??
 
You can put them on a controller. Just make sure it can handle all the fans. But at the same time, you wouldnt really see too much benifit from the 38mm's on the BIP. Best thing to do is get some cheapy yates. As someone said, if they fail they are dirt cheap to replace.
 
k will the red primochill tubing with feser 1 red coolant in it glow with uv lighting???
 
i already have the coolant from a previous build....i was thinking of using it for the uv properties
 
Just get red tubing and ditch the fesser coolant. Get yourself some distilled + biocide or some silver. Fesser coolants, especially the red stuff, will stain everything in you loop and it'll be a bitch to get it all out if you ever decide to change coolants. I made the mistake of using some Fesser red in the first loop that I built, and to this day my loop always has a pink tint to it.

Plus the dye tends to clump up and solidify in places. When I opened up my CPU block there were these little red turds stuck in the pins, and my tubing had these red spots that looked like red mold.
 
tuanster1119 said:
Just get red tubing and ditch the fesser coolant. Get yourself some distilled + biocide or some silver. Fesser coolants, especially the red stuff, will stain everything in you loop and it'll be a bitch to get it all out if you ever decide to change coolants. I made the mistake of using some Fesser red in the first loop that I built, and to this day my loop always has a pink tint to it.

Plus the dye tends to clump up and solidify in places. When I opened up my CPU block there were these little red turds stuck in the pins, and my tubing had these red spots that looked like red mold.
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I totally agree with the Feser cooling. Not only is it crazy expensive, and expensive to ship cuz it's heavy, it leaves behind a fog / residue on all your stuff. I've replaced my 2 liter bottles (2 x $20) with distilled water and going to get colored tubing. Question for tuanster1119, what is the best UV / colored tubing? I've currently got 1/2" Tygon 3306 clear, if I want to go black then I'll use the black Tygon from Sidewinders, but what about blue? I only see PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT. Recommend?
 
Personally, I'm a fan of PrimoFlex LRT, Mainly because the tubing doesn't cloud up. I have red and blue and they both look nice under UV. I've used Tygon 3306 in the past and I love it because of how easy it is to use but the clouding really bugged me.
 
The clouding is kind of a drag, but I have personally seen a 965 in a socket completely submerged in feser f1, boot up and run. Thank god it wasn't mine....gutchecktimeforsure.
Tubing, I prefer the 7/16"id 11/16"od Tygon the most.
 
Romdominance said:
The clouding is kind of a drag, but I have personally seen a 965 in a socket completely submerged in feser f1, boot up and run. Thank god it wasn't mine....gutchecktimeforsure.
Tubing, I prefer the 7/16"id 11/16"od Tygon the most.
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:: sigh :: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PphBqSF_8Ps probably explains it best.

Sure, if you pour the stuff straight out of the bottle, it won't short out your system immediately, but it eventually will. Same goes for distilled.

http://blog.petrastech.com/ also has a video of them testing some "non conductive" fluid against distilled water. The bottom line is... if you have a major leak in your system, you're screwed either way. So why pay 20x as much for something that comes in a fancy bottle?
 
im using a MCR320 on i7 @3.2 ghz temps range from 90F to 130F in my apt cooled around 80F
@4.2 my temps are min 31C and max 69C avg 65.5C (everest stress tested for 30 min)
p180 antec case
sythe 1.5inch 3000 rpm fans @1600-2000 i dont notice greater improved cooling with higher rpm (maybe if i was runnin more then just cpu in loop i would see higher fan rpm benefit temps)
thermaltake pump and res
swiftech block
 
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To my knowledge, if you're talking about the highest performance available in a standard made-for-pc-watercooling rad (as in, not a heatercore from a car or something), I believe the Feser Monsta is the top of the line. It costs a fortune, uses 4x120 or 3x140 fans. I believe Feser also parnered with somebody to make expensive, high end fans made for watercooling as well, so either use those if you can afford them or Scythes etc.

There are other things to think about surely (price, quiet etc) but for sheer power I hear the Monsta is the top.
 
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7.5' tall, 6 starfin pipes, holds almost 2 gallons... cools like a champ.
 
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