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Best liquid cooling solution under $150?
- Thread starter Dew itt right
- Start date
Dew itt right
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
- Messages
- 3,314
Sorry it took a while to respond, it took me a while to remember where I got this stuff & check for invoices! Heres what Ive got in my system now and how much it cost me. Its all been purchased since December 05. Ive added a second radiator too after I posted those pics. So heres whats cooling my case ATM
In order of flow:
Swiftech MCP655 -- $90.00 (approximately, cant find invoice)
Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme 120mm Radiator -- $65.00
Swiftech MCW6000K-64 CPU Black/Chrome Waterblock -- $38.50
Swiftech MCR120 Quiet Power Series 120mm Heat Exchanger -- $29.00
Danger Den MAZE4 Chipset Block -- $35.00
Swiftech MCW55 Graphics Card Liquid Cooler -- $50.00
Innovatek Tank-O-Matic MICRO Aluminum Reservoir -- $60.00
Tygon 3/8 & ½ tubing -- about $30.00
Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid - UV Midnight Blue -- $37.00
Total $$ for current setup: $434.50 (not including shipping!!)
Didnt quite make it under the $150, did I?! It didnt start quite like this, but this is where Im at now. I ditched my original T-line w/ DD fillport and I added the reservoir and BIX rad. My CPU idles at about 34C right now because its summer and because My fans are only running at about 50%, I like it quiet! When I OC or start gaming, I crank up the fans. During OC and Prime, it doesnt get much over 40C.
Quick advice from personal disasters: Definitly buy NON-CONDUCTIVE coolant (fried my first X800PRO with Tt Bigwater coolant!) and don't use those plastic hose clamps. They're expensive and they suck. Get the standard metal worm-drive hose clamps from an auto or home improvement store. I think they look better too. If I get a chance I'll post some of my other noob lessons from my first WC setup!
In order of flow:
Swiftech MCP655 -- $90.00 (approximately, cant find invoice)
Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme 120mm Radiator -- $65.00
Swiftech MCW6000K-64 CPU Black/Chrome Waterblock -- $38.50
Swiftech MCR120 Quiet Power Series 120mm Heat Exchanger -- $29.00
Danger Den MAZE4 Chipset Block -- $35.00
Swiftech MCW55 Graphics Card Liquid Cooler -- $50.00
Innovatek Tank-O-Matic MICRO Aluminum Reservoir -- $60.00
Tygon 3/8 & ½ tubing -- about $30.00
Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid - UV Midnight Blue -- $37.00
Total $$ for current setup: $434.50 (not including shipping!!)
Didnt quite make it under the $150, did I?! It didnt start quite like this, but this is where Im at now. I ditched my original T-line w/ DD fillport and I added the reservoir and BIX rad. My CPU idles at about 34C right now because its summer and because My fans are only running at about 50%, I like it quiet! When I OC or start gaming, I crank up the fans. During OC and Prime, it doesnt get much over 40C.
Quick advice from personal disasters: Definitly buy NON-CONDUCTIVE coolant (fried my first X800PRO with Tt Bigwater coolant!) and don't use those plastic hose clamps. They're expensive and they suck. Get the standard metal worm-drive hose clamps from an auto or home improvement store. I think they look better too. If I get a chance I'll post some of my other noob lessons from my first WC setup!
Dew itt right
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
- Messages
- 3,314
headala said:
Oh yes, I was so ticked off when I got all my stuff in and I started to put it in the case like I had planned it in my head and there was NO ROOM at all!! I had it crammed in for a while until I got sick of it. I took out the removeable HDD rack and put my boot drive in the 3.5" FDD rack. This free'd up room for my pump to sit where the HDD rack used to be, but I still had to put the rad in upsidedown to make it fit in this space as well. Finally, I got an HDD silencer that allows you to mount your HDD in a 5.25" bay and I ditched my floppy drive so I had no need for the FDD removable rack either. But the brackets that the two removable rack mount to were still in the way, so I remmoved them as well. I simply ripped out the rivets and removed them. If you can spend more time on it, I'd drill out the rivets neatly so later on if you want to put the trays back in you could secure the brackets back to the case with machine screws and nuts. If you look at the pic below, there's nothing between the case floor and the bottom of the 5.25" drive cage anymore. That's about a foot of clearance - plenty of room for my pump, reservoir, radiator, and 120mm fan! Here's the pic again!
Dew itt right
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
- Messages
- 3,314
Some more newb-to-newb advice...
1) If you want it to look good and not have tubing running everywhere, spring for the tygon tubing! This stuff is well worth the money if you can spend it. The Home Depot tubing I first bought would kink VERY easily at somewhat tight bends. The tygon can do THIS without kinking...
It may not be very easy to see in a picture, but the tube is only about 8 inches long but it comes out of the CPU block, makes a 90-degree turn downward and another 90-degree turn to your left and fastens to the radiator all with out kinking.
2) Some turns will just be too tight to do without kinking unless you use plenty of excess tubing. Instead, try THIS stuff. I used it in these two tight spots and it's worked very nicely!
They sell it clear, colored, or UV-reactive I believe and it's not that expensive at all.
3) My personal experience was that T-line do not bleed out air very well. Even at my pumps lowest speed setting, the tiny air bubbles fly straight through the T-line and very rarely did they veer upwards like they should. Maybe I did something wrong, but I love the res I have now much better! Plus it's very hard to drain your fluid with a T-line. I've spent many hours holding my case upsidedown over a bowl trying to get all the liquid to flow out through the fillport at the top of my case. now I can just tilt the case different way and tip the res over and let it spill over into the bowl. It's turned out to be much quicker and easier. It's also a nice flow indicator, watching the surface of the fluid in the res dancing!
4) Unless you have to, DO NOT mount your radiator upsidedown, it's wicked hard to bleed the air out of it this way. I had to do it originally and now I have to to get it on the rear case fan and it's a pain to bleed!
Well, that's it for now. Again, this is sort of a blind-leading-the-blind so if anyone sees me leading someone astray please jump in! My system and WC setup have changed a tiny bit this weekend. My sig has been updated and WC setup looks something like this awefully blurry pic! Thanks again guys!!
1) If you want it to look good and not have tubing running everywhere, spring for the tygon tubing! This stuff is well worth the money if you can spend it. The Home Depot tubing I first bought would kink VERY easily at somewhat tight bends. The tygon can do THIS without kinking...
It may not be very easy to see in a picture, but the tube is only about 8 inches long but it comes out of the CPU block, makes a 90-degree turn downward and another 90-degree turn to your left and fastens to the radiator all with out kinking.
2) Some turns will just be too tight to do without kinking unless you use plenty of excess tubing. Instead, try THIS stuff. I used it in these two tight spots and it's worked very nicely!
They sell it clear, colored, or UV-reactive I believe and it's not that expensive at all.
3) My personal experience was that T-line do not bleed out air very well. Even at my pumps lowest speed setting, the tiny air bubbles fly straight through the T-line and very rarely did they veer upwards like they should. Maybe I did something wrong, but I love the res I have now much better! Plus it's very hard to drain your fluid with a T-line. I've spent many hours holding my case upsidedown over a bowl trying to get all the liquid to flow out through the fillport at the top of my case. now I can just tilt the case different way and tip the res over and let it spill over into the bowl. It's turned out to be much quicker and easier. It's also a nice flow indicator, watching the surface of the fluid in the res dancing!
4) Unless you have to, DO NOT mount your radiator upsidedown, it's wicked hard to bleed the air out of it this way. I had to do it originally and now I have to to get it on the rear case fan and it's a pain to bleed!
Well, that's it for now. Again, this is sort of a blind-leading-the-blind so if anyone sees me leading someone astray please jump in! My system and WC setup have changed a tiny bit this weekend. My sig has been updated and WC setup looks something like this awefully blurry pic! Thanks again guys!!
