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bad powersupply??

U

umcpgrad

2[H]4U
Joined
Apr 2, 2004
Messages
2,800
so anyways new comp for a friend..... I fired up the m/b installed everything with cpu, ram, graphic card and etc...
and yet i noticed there is no beeping noises... (everytime comp beeps when it boots up).. but for some reason this m/b doesn't beep... so yeah.. everything boot ups fine...so i went to play around in the cell section.. aka the ocing section...
so I guess i turned the fsb... to 170.. it posted.. 180.. posted..190 didn't post.. 184 fsb it didn't post.. and when i rebooted. it say floppy error.. but I didn't put floppy... because my friend will not use it..
so after I turned that off... and turn back up.. the monitor would just shuts down after few secs.. but it does say connection are fine.. and etc..
so I swapped out... video card, hardrive..ram..video cable...
i took out battery of the m/b and I reset the bio info a lot of times...

I am afraid it might be motherboard and cpu problem.. could it really be it?!?!? oh no!! :confused: :mad:
i went on msi site.. and it aint that helpful.. I need help please!! :(

btw excuse my writing ... it has been a long night... be doing this for 8 hours now... and had no sleep... had only 2 hours.. of sleep..
 
please post the full config (anything employing power)
and the make and model of the power supply
ideally with the amps per rail listed on the label

its possible that its a power issue, but hard to tell without that info
 
sorry about the horrible post that I wrote hours ago.

I have msi kzn2 delta 2 motherboard,
I have the kingston value ram pc3200 1gig
geforce 6800oc bfg
3 hardrives, 200 gig maxtor, 250 gig maxtor, 200 gig wd
and tdk 40x cd burner, nec 8 x dual layer dvd burner
with 2600+ amd tbird.
the case that I have is the kingwin mutant x silver/ gray gaming case with "420w" power supply from newegg....

any other infos ?? thank you all for the help... :(
 
1 correction the m/b is msi k7n2 delta 2
and I just found the d-bracket...
and it has 4 lights, whenever I start the comp it shows
2 on top 2 on right


red, green
red, red

I went on the msi website... and it doesn't really say anything about what that means... :confused:
 
here it is a general background on the situation.

the comp is brand new, and at first it booted fine, bio, I hit del and played around the settings.. I tried to oc.. and btw this system has no floppy drive... then suddenly i played with the fsb.. and the system wouldn't boot to the bio screen and it said floppy error blah blah.. that is when everything started... whenever I start the comp.. never "boot" up not even the bio screen.. the monitor deplays nothing .. and I tired to take out the battery and the clear cmos jumper.. nothing.. the computer turns on... but the monitor deplays nothing.. and the video card is fine, and etc.. I tried it on another comp..
 
I dont see the make and model of PSU


vidcard reference values
http://www.xbitlabs.com/misc/picture/?src=/images/video/ati-vs-nv-power/6800_table-b.gif&1=1
+3.3V @ 0.18A
+5V @ 1.98A
+12V @ 2.37

I awarded you a FDD, Keyboard and Mouse
assumed a fan for the heatsink and gave you 3 more fans
http://takaman.jp/D/?M=PbQJQbdHdSAgPKiH3UCkG5@BDTHXZAZavPCMP&english
+3.3V @ 2.5
+5V @ 14.5
+12V @ 21.7

instructions, look at the lable on the supply
deduct one third of the rated amps and compare to the amps listed above for each rail
if the power supply happens to be a POWmax, remove it from the case and use it as a doorstop
(there are several other makes of supplies that are equally useful)

basically you\he bought a $55 case with a doorstop for a PSU
good PSUs able to even run that rig start at $85 and up to $130 or so
its very likely its is anemic on the +12V rail, and even if it isnt (so labled)
once you deduct the cost of the case it still leaves you with a peice of crap $10 supply


POWER SHMOWER by Mike Chin

or How PSU Power Ratings Mean Almost Nothing

A frustrating fact about PSUs is that there does not appear to be a stringent or regulated standard for reporting, advertising and labeling rated power. This is despite the existence of standards like ATX2.03 or Intel ATX12V.

There are well-established standards for measuring and rating HDD capacity, an engine's horsepower, or the heat generated by a furnace... but not one for how much power a PSU can deliver. There are so many cases of people with "450W" PSUs having power stability issues running a system that can't possoibly draw more than 150W. And "300W" units that keep running where the "450W" units are faltering.

It's not just about bad PSUs vs better ones. It's a dumb situation caused by uncontrolled marketing competition. Real regulation would bring PSUs out of snake oil territory and into a more sensible consumer-friendly terrain.

There are many ways PSU makers fudge to make their units seem more powerful.

1) Out and out lying. You add up the power on all the lines in many PSUs and they fall short of the rated power by 10, 20 30W or even more.

There are more sophisticated ways:

2) Limit the AC input voltage to a very narrow tolerance. The best PSUs are able to deliver their rated power given a decent range of AC input power, say 90~130V for a 120V unit. It's much more demanding to produce 300W w/90VAC input than with 120VAC, so what some PSU makers will detail in their tech specs (usually not in their consumer brochures) is to specify 115-120VAC for input power. A PSU specified this way will not deliver full power if the AC voltage sags, if there is a brown-out. Surely it causes instability more often than a PSU rated to deliver full power with 90-130VAC.

3) Specify a low operating temperature for rated output. This is quite common, but again not often seen in consumer brochures, but rather tech spec sheets provided usually only on demand by engineers or corp buyers. A typical PSU operating temp statement is somthing like this:

0ºC ~25ºC for full rating of load, decrease to zero Watts O/P at 70ºC

Examine what that says. Full power (let's say 400W) is available when the unit is at 0ºC ~25ºC. Hmmm. Think about this.

Have you ever felt air blown out of a PSU in a PC running absolutely full tilt (which it would have to do to get anywhere near 400W output) that felt cool to the fingers? 25ºC airflow would feel exactly that: Cool, given that normal body temperature is 37 °C.

So this PSU cannot deliver full rated power when its temperature goes over 25ºC. OK, what happens to the max power output capacity above that temp? It decreases gradually so that by the time the PSU temp reaches 70ºC, the PSU cannot deliver any power at all. So if you assume that this power drop as temp rises is linear, then max power capacity will drop by ~9W for every degree over 25ºC.

Now having examined as many PSUs as I have over the last 2~3 years, I have to say there's not a single PSU in ANY PC I have ever used or examined that would not measure at least 30~35ºC almost anywhere inside the PSU under almost any kind of load. And if/when it is pushed, 45ºC is nothing at all, especially for or near hot running components like voltage regulators.

So let's say 40ºC is a fairly typical temp inside a PSU. This 400W rated unit would actually be able to deliver a max of just 220W at that temp. Hmmm. Interesting, isn't it? At 50ºC, the available power would drop to just 130W. No wonder some PSUs have 3 fans each capable of 50 cfm!!

Here's a simple fact: Really high quality PSUs are actually rated for full power output at as high as 40ºC. The trick is get a hold of the spec sheets that tell such information so you can compare apples to apples. Or ask.
Click to expand...

if your lucky it hasnt killed anything
 
well go ahead and post the make and model of supply
sometimes you get lucky and get say a rebadged Fortron,
which may not still be up to the job
but would be a good supply for a less demanding config

so if you can get me that I'll let you know a bit about it and we can discuss what might meet your needs for that config
 
another short update, before I do something more. Sorry to bother you all with this.. :(


I plugged in a new compusa 500 watt powersupply and it still does the samething.
I also plugged in a new 256 pc3200 pny ram and nothing .. it does the samething..

I am now RMA the motherboard...
and the cpu ran out of warrenty now..
do you all think it is the motherboard now??
 
I have tried the "powermax" doorstop modification, the problem is, it takes two wired in parallel to do the job :rolleyes:
 
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