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Acrlyc case, grounding?

O

Ouikikazz

Gawd
Joined
Feb 3, 2001
Messages
939
How is the motherboard grounded on an acrylic case? I want to build an acrylic case full on but wanted to know how it'll be grounded.
 
You could make one of the standoffs have a cable on a ring connector go up onto the power supply, having it contact by attatching it to a psu chassis screw.

It would at least be better then relying on the ATX plug for grounding, especially if you remove the plug from the motherboard for some odd reason.
 
Originally posted by mustang_steve
You could make one of the standoffs have a cable on a ring connector go up onto the power supply, having it contact by attatching it to a psu chassis screw.

It would at least be better then relying on the ATX plug for grounding, especially if you remove the plug from the motherboard for some odd reason.
Click to expand...

soldering a wire from the motherboard ring to the psu would work right? any specs on how thick the wire should be?
 
Originally posted by Ouikikazz
soldering a wire from the motherboard ring to the psu would work right? any specs on how thick the wire should be?
Click to expand...

dosent need to be very thick...
 
all grounding isprovided via the Power Supply. You don't need any additional grounding.
 
rayra, most electical appliances and such don't "need" artificial grounding, but it is good practice as a backup. The three prong wall outlets in your home have a negative and a ground for just that reason. :p
 
I had a problem with the FDD on my A7N8X and I had to put tape on all the standoffs to eliminate any 'artificial' grounding according to ASUS and it worked.
 
Originally posted by Adrenaline
I had a problem with the FDD on my A7N8X and I had to put tape on all the standoffs to eliminate any 'artificial' grounding according to ASUS and it worked.
Click to expand...

Thats odd?!?
 
Originally posted by redhalo
The three prong wall outlets in your home have a negative and a ground for just that reason. :p
Click to expand...

Yes, as does the power supply. Which your motherboard is already connected to.

Motherboard -> atx plug-> power supply -> grounded wall outlet.

Unless you plan on doing things to your motherboard in the case while completely unplugged from the powersupply, its pretty pointless.
 
Originally posted by redhalo
The three prong wall outlets in your home have a negative and a ground for just that reason. :p
Click to expand...

Is it just me, or does that seem wrong? The two straight faces are the two poles, positive and negative. The ground litterally goes into the ground somewhere. On some spec sheets it's called earth ground.


Anybody want to confirm/deny/clarify?
 
Originally posted by phasmatis_nox
Is it just me, or does that seem wrong? The two straight faces are the two poles, positive and negative. The ground litterally goes into the ground somewhere. On some spec sheets it's called earth ground.


Anybody want to confirm/deny/clarify?
Click to expand...

yes, your correct...thats what I'm saying.
 
Originally posted by ShockValue
Yes, as does the power supply. Which your motherboard is already connected to.

Motherboard -> atx plug-> power supply -> grounded wall outlet.

Unless you plan on doing things to your motherboard in the case while completely unplugged from the powersupply, its pretty pointless.
Click to expand...

The ground in the walloutlet is a backup to the negative, as the case->power supply is a backup to the atx plug->powersupply.
The grounded wall outlet is useless as a backup if something goes wrong within the case.

Yes the shit will run, more likely than not quite fine, but they design this stuff for a reason.
 
Originally posted by phasmatis_nox
Is it just me, or does that seem wrong? The two straight faces are the two poles, positive and negative. The ground litterally goes into the ground somewhere. On some spec sheets it's called earth ground.


Anybody want to confirm/deny/clarify?
Click to expand...

The three prongs are for the the following:

Shortest vertical socket is the hot wire. It provides 110 volts and is called the ungrounded conductor.

Longest vertical socket is the neutral wire. It is called the grounded conductor and is connected to the earth ground throught the grounding electrode conductor. This wire will have a voltage drop that will cause a slight diffrence between actual ground and the neutral at the appliance when it is in use. There are numerous factors that dictate how much the voltage drop could be but if you ground something off of the grounded conductor, you can be shocked when conditions are right. Thats why you need:

The round socket is the equipment ground. Because there is not a current present on this conductor under normal circumstances, it is not subject to voltage drop and provides good protection to the equipment. It is connected to the neutral and the grounding electrode conductor where the electrical service enters the home.

There are other reasons why the neutral and ground are separated but I'm out of time.

Oh and the conductors to the wall outlet are not positive and negitive. Because the signal is AC the hot conductor is both positive and negitive depending on the your time within the 60hz cycle.
 
i would think you could potentially just use normal copper(?) standoffs screwed into the acrylic, and then just hotglue some wire between them (into a U shape) and then run a single wire to whatever is a big enough metal box. remember, if you life in a relatively wet climate, you wont develop any real static charge anyway.

a small (read: 30 guage should be enough) wire is all that's necessary. you're only trying to prevent a buildup of charge, which isnt too hard. static is only a voltage spike, so when it arcs, it's several thousand volts, but like.00001 amps. 30 guage wire will run off the static charge long before it gets a chance to arc.
 
Walleye has the idea, just solder some 20-24ga wire from the standoff to your PSU.

Yes, it's a redundant ground. This is still something to consider. Just because it's not absolutely necessary doesn't mean you should do without it. A good example is a parking brake on a car with an automatic transmission. A good PC example are the two grounds on the 4-pin molex HDD plugs on your power supply (very few have true separate grounds for each voltage rail).

Reliance on a single cable is only asking for a problem. Especially when the fix is less than a dollar, why not do it?

Only reason I mentionted 20-24ga is becuase that is what you can commonly find at home as the "speaker wire" that comes with most home audio gear. 30ga to me is just a hair too fragile though.
 
Originally posted by Disarray
The three prongs are for the the following:

Shortest vertical socket is the hot wire. It provides 110 volts and is called the ungrounded conductor.

Longest vertical socket is the neutral wire. It is called the grounded conductor and is connected to the earth ground throught the grounding electrode conductor. This wire will have a voltage drop that will cause a slight diffrence between actual ground and the neutral at the appliance when it is in use. There are numerous factors that dictate how much the voltage drop could be but if you ground something off of the grounded conductor, you can be shocked when conditions are right. Thats why you need:

The round socket is the equipment ground. Because there is not a current present on this conductor under normal circumstances, it is not subject to voltage drop and provides good protection to the equipment. It is connected to the neutral and the grounding electrode conductor where the electrical service enters the home.

There are other reasons why the neutral and ground are separated but I'm out of time.

Oh and the conductors to the wall outlet are not positive and negitive. Because the signal is AC the hot conductor is both positive and negitive depending on the your time within the 60hz cycle.
Click to expand...

Yes, I spoke too quick. Did some quick research when I got home.;) No neg.
 
Originally posted by Disarray
Oh and the conductors to the wall outlet are not positive and negitive. Because the signal is AC the hot conductor is both positive and negitive depending on the your time within the 60hz cycle.
Click to expand...


Somebody lied to me, all these years ago...
 
Originally posted by Walleye
i would think you could potentially just use normal copper(?) standoffs screwed into the acrylic, and then just hotglue some wire between them (into a U shape) and then run a single wire to whatever is a big enough metal box. remember, if you life in a relatively wet climate, you wont develop any real static charge anyway.

a small (read: 30 guage should be enough) wire is all that's necessary. you're only trying to prevent a buildup of charge, which isnt too hard. static is only a voltage spike, so when it arcs, it's several thousand volts, but like.00001 amps. 30 guage wire will run off the static charge long before it gets a chance to arc.
Click to expand...

im not using standoffs...its acrylic custom case and i dont plan on using any metal standoffs...i dont even plan on using standoffs at all but if i do i'll use small acrylic blocks. or should i use standoffs?
 
standoffs allow airflow behind the mobo. i'd say they;'re a good idea.

metal ones seem the easiest, least destructive route to solving this problem.
 
Originally posted by phasmatis_nox
Somebody lied to me, all these years ago...
Click to expand...

They didn't lie to you, pos/neg still applies to DC circuits... like batteries, or inside your computer.

Also, you were a kid. If someone told you it was "hot" you would have used it to warm yourself up when it got cold.
 
Yeah, I'm talking about AC though. That's one of the things that always confused me when I believed that pos and neg came in on two seperate lines, how the DC current from the generator became AC(rectifier, but I don't know how they work) and pulsed. Of course, throw this out the window if you start getting into 3-phase power.

I do a lot of work with DC current in my other hobby(combat robotics), so it's kind of amazing to me that I got by all these years being deluded about how AC current works. Humbling.
 
Geez, just go to radio shack and find some small guage wire. If 30 will work, so will 28, 22 or anything else.

For my 2¢ on the ground stuff, ALL the black wires on the PSU go to the same place inside the PSU----> BOTH the neutral and the ground go to the same place (earth ground (long copper rod driven in the ground)) at the breaker panel.

edit: spelling
 
Originally posted by delbert
Geez, just go to radio shack and find some small guage wire. If 30 will work, so will 28, 22 or anything else.

For my 2¢ on the ground stuff, ALL the black wires on the PSU go to the same place inside the PSU----> BOTH the neutral and the ground go to the same place (earth ground (long copper rod driven in the ground)) at the breaker panel.

edit: spelling
Click to expand...

:p radio shack is like 20 miles from where I am and no car...eh i'll just hack off some Y adapter wires and use those ehheheheh
 
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