2.0 system for $200ish

EdGaRRRRR said:
Polk it is :). Last question I see some floor standing Polk monitor 50's on newegg for about $170 shipped. Would those sound better then the bookshelf monitor 40's?
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Yup. They would indeed, but they are floorstanding (meaning they are HUGE). To put that in perspective I have Polk Monitor 60's as the main speakers in my Home Theater with a 59" HDTV. So the 50's are better, but desk placement is not an option....:D

They might be overkill for your system however. You could always start with the 40's as fronts and if you later on want to get the 50's you can then move the 40's to the side surrounds....How big a room are we talking?

If you can wait longer (which you may not be able to) the Monitor 60's and 70's are the top two of that line and they do go on sale on newegg from time to time (I bought mine from there last year around this time) and they would do way more than you really need.
 
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That actually sounds perfect. Ill get the 40's for now and later on get floor standers. The 40's seem like they would be better for surrounds anyway. Awesome i think im set now. Now just need exactly what wires to buy from monoprice.
 
In general, more volume --> speaker more accurately approximates an ideal speaker. In particular, the power output at a reasonable distortion tends to increase dramatically going from bookshelves to floor-standers. For a small room and nearfield listening, this can be relatively negligible...for a larger room, this can be a huge gain.
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
That actually sounds perfect. Ill get the 40's for now and later on get floor standers. The 40's seem like they would be better for surrounds anyway. Awesome i think im set now. Now just need exactly what wires to buy from monoprice.
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Thats really easy...I would go with 14 gauge wire. How much you will need is your call....

Also recommend getting banana plugs for the connections to the receiver and something like this for the connections at the speaker. Trust me you will thank me later :)
 
Do I really need to use those terminators? They're a lil pricey. How many would I need? Are they idiot proof?
 
For thick wires, you do need some sort of termination or you'll have a grand time dealing with the connectors on your speakers & amplifier. Banana plugs are cheapish and generally more than adequate. Spades are nice when appropriate. 16-18 gauge wire could also be fine if you're using relatively short runs, and it would be less of an issue...I'd go with 14 or 16 and bananas (depending again on the length of cable you'll need). That Monster "quicklock" stuff though - totally unnecessary.
 
I think I'll only need about 12 ft of wire total. 7 ft for left speaker and 5 ft for right speaker. Do I still need the terminators with the 14 guage wire I'll be getting with that length of speaker wire I'm using? If so are there cheaper alternatives cause monster is fucking overpriced as well.
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
I think I'll only need about 12 ft of wire total. 7 ft for left speaker and 5 ft for right speaker. Do I still need the terminators with the 14 guage wire I'll be getting with that length of speaker wire I'm using? If so are there cheaper alternatives cause monster is fucking overpriced as well.
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I didn't mean to suggest you purchase those exact monster price ones, simply something along those lines (I couldn't find anything like it on Monoprice) :).

Yes you really really really really really want to purchase terminators. It makes it so simply to unplug and move your equipment. It goes from having to screw down onto the wires (which are a PITA to get into the groove in the receiver) to simply plugging them in. Its like going from having to build a fire yourself to simply hitting a switch. You can do it either way, but one way it MUCH easier :)
 
So would I need 2 of those then? But once the speakers are set I really don't see myself moving them very often, but maybe I will. If I like them enough maybe I'll go back and forth to the office and living room, then that's when those quicklock terminators would come in handy right?
 
Each cable entails four connections, positive and negative for each end. Banana plugs generally come in pairs, although sometimes in larger packs. You need four total for each wire, or eight for a pair of speakers.

I try to keep cable length balanced even when the run isn't quite, so in your case I'd use two 7' wires.

Banana plugs or other terminators will (a) make it much easier to disconnect and reconnect your equipment and (b) make it so you can connect thicker wire. While (a) is a convenience and you could surely pick them up later after and if you see the point of it, (b) is a bordering on a necessity if you want to use 14 gauge wire. But the quicklocks don't really do anything bananas won't at 1/10th the price.
 
ashmedai said:
Each cable entails four connections, positive and negative for each end. Banana plugs generally come in pairs, although sometimes in larger packs. You need four total for each wire, or eight for a pair of speakers.

I try to keep cable length balanced even when the run isn't quite, so in your case I'd use two 7' wires.

Banana plugs or other terminators will (a) make it much easier to disconnect and reconnect your equipment and (b) make it so you can connect thicker wire. While (a) is a convenience and you could surely pick them up later after and if you see the point of it, (b) is a bordering on a necessity if you want to use 14 gauge wire. But the quicklocks don't really do anything bananas won't at 1/10th the price.
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The quicklocks are for the connections at the speakers. I couldnt get the banana plugs to work on the speakerend (I dont think the speakers are deep enough to accept the banana plug fully) so the quicklocks were for that side. I then had 2 banana plugs at the reciever and then two more at the speaker. If you can get the banana plugs to work than that is def the way to go.
 
EndgersShadow you said you own the polk 40's. Would i be able to just do pure banana plugs or would they not work on the speakers just on receiver as you said earlier?
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
EndgersShadow you said you own the polk 40's. Would i be able to just do pure banana plugs or would they not work on the speakers just on receiver as you said earlier?
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I will take a look and let you know. I want to say they wont, but I didnt really force the issue as I just purchased the quicklock plugs cause I got a great deal on them at the time...
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
That actually sounds perfect. Ill get the 40's for now and later on get floor standers. The 40's seem like they would be better for surrounds anyway. Awesome i think im set now. Now just need exactly what wires to buy from monoprice.
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Get the 50's now, then get BETTER tower speakers later.
Trust me.

The Monitor 40's have the standard connector and should work fine with banana plugs. Newegg shows the connection.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290011
I don't own them though, so I don't know of the problem Enders speaks of. I say screw the expensive Monster cable quick locks and stick with banana plugs or bare wire. $30 for a pair of terminators is rediculous. Huge waste of money.

I've got the Polk Rti 8 towers for my home theater, with the Fxi-3 rear and Csi-3 center. Onkyo 605 reciever
Friend 1: Rti 10 towers, Fxi-5 rear and Csi-5 center, 2000W rms Sunfire amp, Denon receiver
Friend 2: Rti 8 towers, Fxi-5 rear, Csi-5 center, Denon receiver
Friend 3: Monitor 50 fronts, no rears, Cis-2 center.

The difference is incredible. But, it has a lot to do with the amps & receivers as well. Bottom line, you won't be entirely happy with the Monitor 50's and will eventually want better.
 
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See but the thing is these speaker will be right in front of me on my desk prolly 2 feet away with me. I dont think floor standers are even an option to tell you the truth.
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
See but the thing is these speaker will be right in front of me on my desk prolly 2 feet away with me. I dont think floor standers are even an option to tell you the truth.
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The 50's are not really an option. With them being on the desk to near to you the 40's already will be more than enough (trust me). Now when/if you move this to a home theater, then spend some real cash on some really really good fronts. Any chance we can get a picture of your room and how you think these should be setup? It would help greatly.

For my home theater in the main room I plan on putting some RTI A9's from polks ebay website (where I can get a refurb set for 899 + shipping) in the front, but for your application anything other than the 40's would be overkill.

The ONLY thing is that these will not have tons of bass. You might find yourself in the market for a sub (if you really like bass heavy music). For my purposes I dont even have a sub connected to my bedroom Home Theater, just the Monitor 40's a CS1 front and thats it.

PS. the banana plugs will fit, ableit not as secure as I would like. You will need to pop a little cap off the speaker and they work. In my case the connector didn't snap into place as it did with the connections at the receiver.

Also not to change your choice, but saw these on Polks ebay website. They go 19 dollars plus shipping over your budget, but the RTI line is damn near the top of the Polks lineup. You still get a 2 yr warranty (rather than 5 new). Just throwing that out there. :)
 
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Hello. i've been following this thread on my iphone for a while and I'd like to get an amp + 2 bookshelf speakers for my computer setup where I won't need(and can't have) wall thumping bass, just good speakers for music and light gaming. I was thinking of this:

Denon receiver: http://www.dakmart.com/product_info.php?cPath=4_9_15&products_id=169
and Energy c-200 speakers: http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=ENC200

Now this may sound dumb but why are there 4 knobs on each speaker? I thought they should just have 2, one for positive and negative. The H and L I assume means high and low? Will this receiver be compatible with 2 pairs of 4 for a total of 8 wires. I probably sound very noobish I know!
 
So you can drive the tweeter and midwoofer separately. You can use them normally by leaving the clip between the terminals attached.
 
God damn you EndersShadow. Way to throw a monkeywrench in my decision. Now im looking for ebay coupon codes to try to bring those speakers down. Or a paypal code or something. YOU BASTARD! :)
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
God damn you EndersShadow. Way to throw a monkeywrench in my decision. Now im looking for ebay coupon codes to try to bring those speakers down. Or a paypal code or something. YOU BASTARD! :)
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Always glad to help :). I wish I had know about Polks ebay website when I started out. Might not be in the upgrade dilemma that I am now lol.... :D
 
ashmedai said:
So you can drive the tweeter and midwoofer separately. You can use them normally by leaving the clip between the terminals attached.
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Ahh, but i would get better sound quality wiring them separately I take it? As long as the receiver will take 2 pairs of 4 I'll do it that way
 
Thunder Face said:
Ahh, but i would get better sound quality wiring them separately I take it? As long as the receiver will take 2 pairs of 4 I'll do it that way
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You should notice a difference but how much/if any depends on your ears. I noticed no difference bi-wiring (much different than bi-amping) my Monitor 60's to my Integra 5.9 reciever. It honestly probably isnt worth the extra effort unless you just really want to do it to do it.
 
J Macker said:
Energy C-200's advantages:
91 db sensitivity
6.5" driver
48 Hz at -3dB
Source: http://www.energy-speakers.com/na-en/products/c-200-specifications/

Monitor 40's
89 dB sensitivity
5.25" driver
57 Hz at -3dB
Source: http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/recent/monitor40/

This translates to more bass and louder volumes for the C-200's.
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This is true for the bass. Regarding sensitivity, you can always just turn up the volume more. Sensitivity is more of an issue if you have a lower ohms load (like 4 or 6). The reciever he has will be able to drive all of these speakers about even. As I showed you the A3's I thought I would list the spec's for them as well.

RTi A3's
89 dB sensitivity
6.5" driver
50 Hz at -3dB

Keep in mind you have the option of adding a cheap sub since you are purchasing a reciever and that would fix any issues you would have with lack of bass, regardless of which speakers you end up going with.
 
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Wow. The RTi A3's are rediculously overpriced at retail price. They're not quite as good as the Energy C-200's, but yet double the price. A little better price on the ebay store, but it doesn't make sense to buy the A3s when the C-200s are cheaper and better.
 
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J Macker said:
Wow. The RTi A3's are rediculously overpriced at retail price. They're not quite as good as the Energy C-200's, but yet double the price. A little better price on the ebay store, but it doesn't make sense to buy the A3s when the C-200s are cheaper and better.
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True, but at the end of all this it only matters if the OP likes the sound. As I have said all along I do not own any Energy speakers, nor have I heard them so I cannot compare them to the Polks except on paper. We are also assuming that the spec's listed are actually true. I know many companies "tweak" the spec's to make them better than they are (see it lots when looking at HT recievers). Spec's are spec's but there is no substitute for real world listening experience. If the OP is more comfortable with the Energy's then go for them, they more than likely will sound great. If he is more comfortable with the Polk brand and price, than go for those.

With that said Energy does have really good reviews from people that I respect, and lots of other companies are just as good as Polk as well, and even better in some aspects (i.e. SVS subs v. Polk subs)
 
I also had a difficult time deciding on bookshelf speakers earlier this year. I chose the Dayton BR-1 speaker kit for $140 shipped. 6.5" drivers, and 38 Hz lower range. I'm very happy with them. They were also a fun project because of the assembly and soldering the crossover.

I did also purchase the Dayton HSU 10" Elite sub and it is awesome. My only major complaint is the standby mode frequently kicks in.
 
You know what I think I'm just gonna go with the original polk 40's. Just because as I said. I'm looking for entry level you know. I will prolly add a cheapo sub later(most likely sooner then later). And I'm gonna go with the polks only because I've heard of the brand so I guess I am biased. Later on if I get more serious about audio then I'll look for more high end stuff (especially floor standers for HT). Thanks again guys really appreciate all the help. So in the end polk 40's and onkyo receiver :). I'm sure I'll be happy.

ps: This thread got pretty big haha.
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
I'm sure I'll be happy.
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I am quite sure you will be. For sub recommendations let us know, there are a lot of decent subs out there that will do just what you want. With a sub you have no need to stay with the same manufacture either (unlike speakers where you want to make sure they are timbre matched).

I honestly would recommend starting your sub research now before the speakers come in so you have a good head start.
 
Wait for Black Friday. It's just around the corner. You'll be able to pick up whatever you'd like for a lot cheaper.
Maybe you'll even get something better for the price you're going to spend now.
 
Yea but I wouldn't know what to get later because I still don't know much about passive speakers. I wouldn't know what a deal is if I saw it when it comes to passive speakers.
 
EdGaRRRRR said:
How would these 2 compare. Same price but i believe the black friday special is new and free shipping. Does it do bluray formats like the SR606 or not?

http://www.accessories4less.com/mak...el-Home-Theater-Receiver-Like-Tx-sr607/1.html $299 Free Shipping

http://www.accessories4less.com/mak...-90w-X-7ch-Hdmi-Theater-Receiver-Black/1.html $299+$29 shipping
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The first link is the equivalent of the newer model of the 606 only it is normally packaged with a Home Theater System (Hence the HC in the model #). It should do blu-ray formats, but I honestly liked the older model better. It has a better powersupply which translates into better sound, but this one would work as well.
 
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