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10.5" cube acrylic case, tips?

V

Vanilla Coke

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 12, 2005
Messages
134
Going to build a 10.5" .25"thick acrylic case, like the one on www.cubedpc.com . What would be the best way to hold it together? I was thinking screws. And what would be the best way to cut fan holes and pci slots and such? Thanks for your help guys
 
i would use some bars of alluminum to hold everything together...create slots in the bars for the plexi glass to slide in to and drill and tap each ends of the bar so that you can screw the tops and bottoms to the bar stock. To do what i have in mind you would need to have the plexi glass machined and the bar stock tho, so it might not be do-able for you.

If you dont do it this way, then use like gorrila glue or JB weld (does that dry clear?) to hold it together...drilling and screwing in to 1/4" plexi glass is not gonna be easy, and you will probaly mess up a couple sheets from it cracking on you.

The i/o panel - you could take a drill to drill out the ps2 ports, sound ports, and ethernet ports. For the pci slots and such you could probaly use a drill on that also with a milling bit ...not for sure though.
 
I used binning connectors on my cube. I got them from Acme Display. My cube had similar specs, 10", etc.

The reason I used binning connectors as opposed Weld-On 4 was that with the small size, I wanted to be able to get my hands in and not be hassled by the size constraint. Being able to take the sides off and the top off made it easy to access.

If you want to see my cube here it is. Keep in mind I did this thing back in 2002, so a lot has changed with what's available to you to use.

My next cube will be very different.
 
that is a really nice case, I don't have the skill to build one like that, I am just a noobie. so you think gurilla glue would be strong enough? would the strength possibly wear off after years of use? I have used it before in ceramics and it would be a very easy way for me to build my case, binning connectors would be pretty simple too, does it matter how think the case is? which option do you think would be stronger as i will be transporting this computer often? or are they both pretty tough? This info has been really info, If you have anything else to add please do! thanks for the tips guys would it bet easier to use 3/16" thickness? I saw that some binning connectors won't work with 1/4" thick.
 
I don't remember where I saw them but someone sells the lucite corners that Sunbeam (et al) use in unassembled acylic cases. Why not use those?
 
Vanilla Coke said:
that is a really nice case, I don't have the skill to build one like that, I am just a noobie. so you think gurilla glue would be strong enough? would the strength possibly wear off after years of use? I have used it before in ceramics and it would be a very easy way for me to build my case, binning connectors would be pretty simple too, does it matter how think the case is? which option do you think would be stronger as i will be transporting this computer often? or are they both pretty tough? This info has been really info, If you have anything else to add please do! thanks for the tips guys would it bet easier to use 3/16" thickness? I saw that some binning connectors won't work with 1/4" thick.
Click to expand...

well with the glue you would have to set groves in each of the sheets for the other sheets to fit in to. I didnt think about the binding connectors, those are a good alternative to the bar stock like i suggested, much easier for you to. If your gonna carry it i would go with 1/4" plexi glass, i suppose 3/16"s is close enough tho. The 1/4 is very heavy duty and very hard to bend...making it hard to work with as well if you wanna bend it (which i had to do when making hard drive rails).

Sam
 
Hofy, thanks for that link, I could have used those way back then.

With regard to gorilla glue, I've never used it. Is it a solvent? Weld-On is a solvent that will melt the acrylic so that when it cures you have a good bond. I would guess that gorilla glue requires a porous surface in order to form a good physical bond, if you're using it with ceramics.

The best thing to do is build a jig to hold the planes at a 90 degree angle while giving the Weld-On or gorilla glue time to cure. Make sure you have your surfaces to be bonded sanded down so you can form a good joint. After Weld-On has cured you shouldn't see too many air bubbles in the joint. If you do, then you didn't do a good enough job of sanding to make sure the planes are in contact properly.

I would build a jig and then test the glue your going to use on some scrap plastic.

The binning connector require a little routing of the acrylic if they're too thick. If you get 3/16th you shouldn't run into that problem. The binning connectors are a little more ugly, but require a lot less skill.

Good Luck.
 
I have a couple thoughts on the topic:

http://case-mods.linear1.org/planning-your-acrylic-case/
http://case-mods.linear1.org/the-invisible-case/
http://case-mods.linear1.org/acrylic-lexan-and-plastics-faq/

dscf1352.jpg
 
thanks linear, your website has been very helpful to me. I am going to order 1/4" thick polycarbonate from them in a few days, expecting to pay around $85, not too bad, I figure I'll end up spending around $150 on this project total, Well worth it! Thanks to everyone for posting :D
 
http://mountainmods.com/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=213

Cheaper corner blocks, only $.99 each.

Use 3/16", it is plenty strong enough and lighter. Connect with glue whenever you can, but you're right, you'll need to be able to take necessary panels off for access.

If you can order from Tap Plastics they will cut to size for free and they are accurate and square. Very important when working with acrylic.

Good Luck.
 
Gorilla glue is a polyurethane glue that pretty much binds everything. The advantage is that it foams up a bit, and as such it evens out any imperfections. But it's not colorless, it dries up as a yellowish foam.
Since polycarbonate and polyactylate have a pretty strong thermal expansion I would recommend against large scale glueing, if you want it to last a long time. I always thought carefull drilling and tapping makes the nicest clear cases.
 
I'm building a cube in a couple of months (when real life settles down a bit), but it's a little different. It will use a NextCube and a plexi insert for the mobo tray. I plan on building a wood jig and bending the plexi into a "U" shape. Then front and back plates will be attached with Weld-On. No top plate since it'll just be a frame for the components. Of note, it will be a server box with two mobos in it, KVM, network switch, watercooling, and no optical drives.
 
whitewale said:
Gorilla glue is a polyurethane glue that pretty much binds everything. The advantage is that it foams up a bit, and as such it evens out any imperfections. But it's not colorless, it dries up as a yellowish foam.
Since polycarbonate and polyactylate have a pretty strong thermal expansion I would recommend against large scale glueing, if you want it to last a long time. I always thought carefull drilling and tapping makes the nicest clear cases.
Click to expand...

I disagree. I have been building Acrylic cases for years. This is what I use:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=131&

The edges must be smooth, flat, and square and the bond is VERY strong with capillary glued joints. They also look great and are nearly invisible. I use a syringe to apply it.

When there are gaps or nicks or chips I use
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=132&
A little goes a long way, so be sparing with it.

Any other glues will not bond as well or be as clear.
If you want colored glue disolve some colored acrylic chips in the Weld-ON 3.

There are instructions at the Taps Plastics web site on gluing which are pretty good. Experiment first on some scrap pieces and you'll quickly get the hang of it.

Here is my page:
http://www.brooksclark.net/Renders/pcsmainrendersl.htm
 
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