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It's not MSI's fault that his mod sucks. I'm saying it's MSI's fault two fold. Once for picking a picture. Second for picking a POS mod.

I haggle over car prices, not when the item is purchased by dipping into the "toll change" in my car. I'm just saying that there are instances where it can be more complicated than it has to be by trying to save cash online. You have to weigh the whole "savings vs. instant gratification" thing...

Check my sig. With my card @ 350/350 I push 16000 My card is actually a 9500 pro with a super dooper new BIOS. Viola *9700 pro*

I just say those nice things about ATI cause they told me they would kill my cat if I didn't.

Yeah...they had the wicked cool idea of putting little stickers with the exact purchase price right on the little suckers too. I didn't have to guess or anything. You know....so they got that goin for em too. ;)

Must control fist of death. I don't even know what to say. The whole thing is just...so......wrong. 2 should be 1. 3 should be 2. 5 should be 3. 1 should get a newegg gift certificate for spending so much dough on premodded crap. Someone even said it earlier.....even if it wasn't fake........THE...

Sweet. Sooo tacky, yet I am drawn to it like a moth to a flame.

You might as well ask the little girl at the lemonade stand why you can't get rid of that jock itch.

You are a bigger man than me. I don't have it in me anymore to leave a machine i've just built for two hours. Once you have, in your ballyhoo excitement to have your new toy completed, not had the heatsink on secure enough and it pops half way through a prime95 burn in session.....you too may...

I had one that came with a bare bones system I bought a few years ago. It was cheeze. I just put it in a crap P3 i had laying around and played with it but it had no real purpose. The range sucked. Maybe a better unit would be cool.

if you just buy the cathode that has a switch and go buy your new rocker, just lay the contents of the two packages out on a table and , even with no wiring/elec experience, it will all just......make sense.

Should I feel like a ninnie for buying my leds at radio shack? They have a buttload and I can get any resistors, solder, etc I may need as well. I have questions....they have answers. You know how I do.

can you see which header on the mobo is the right one? most of the time they are marked with HDD or something similar. Some older and/or proprietary mobos have three pins and the +/- are the first and third pins. To match this, the case had a three pin wide connector but with only two wires. You...

you are not going to get much for that $$. And there is almost always another (MAYBE NOT BETTER) tool option. I have used band saw, dremel, hole saw, etc in place of jig saw many times.

Thermaltake fireball is nice. It comes with a switch. You could make your own which look a little snazzier but this gets it done. This way you only have to put up with the noise when you are doing something intensive. It's pretty quiet even when running too @ 21db. You can grab it here

Why the dedication to the dell mobo? Just wait to upgrade the case when you have the dough for a mobo and save yourself the hassle. And moving proprietary mobos into new cases usually creates at least a small hassle. Either from dimensions, missing led pin headers etc. I'd wait. Mobo's aren't...

I use these. Hold on to the case and go slow. Doesn't hurt to lube it a bit either. You can't get a better cut. Just get the right size bit for your fan hole.

they are worth replacing but not at that price.I guess it depends on if you have a temp problem. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Here at Newegg they are as cheap as 1.99 depending on what you are looking for.

Sand and prime and that should solve any finish problem. As far as painting, just start off to the side of what you are painting, finish off the opposite side. Never stop on the item. Use MANY thin coats. It'll be sweet. This is true too. The paint will counter effect the heat transfering...

If you do try it yourself.....go slow. Pay attention to how things are as you pull them apart, like are the pin headers for leds marked etc? If you have room and don't trust yourself to reapply heat transfer compound, you could leave the cpu on the mobo when transfering. Just be careful not to...

I would at least try it yourself on some junk caes or extra metal before paying all that money. If you don't like the result you can always try the bady shops later. I was very suprised at how well I could do after a little practice. Get some vinyle dye or plastic model paint and practice...

Holy Poop! Always pull out your components when cutting the case. Trouble shooting the problems that arise from that tiny piece of metal, that you can't see, lodging itself all over the place, will wind up putting you in a padded room.

Ive built many XP systems in small fp cases. Just keep the air moving over the CPU and even at low cfm's the athlon will be fine. Just go to your favorite online retailer and look for the price break(the big jump in price) in the athlon xp line. Get the most bang for your buck even if you don't...

What a load of Poo Poo. I wonder if they got some sort of deal on the new computer lab? :confused:

The RAM that didn't work was junk value ram. It won't work well in a lot of boards. Stick with high quality proven RAM and you can avoid alot of these problems. If you put bicycle tires on a corvette the car will suck. ALL of the parts should be high quality.

ASUS but high end Gigabyte boards are packed with features and are solid. The only problem I ever had with one was a Northbridge fan that started making noise after 3 months on a machine I built for a coworker. No probs and mad results w/ ASUS and ABIT.