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I don't think you would get much of an improvement in performance going from a 9800pro to a x700pro, unless the x700 overclocks like crazy. It might be better to upgrade to something like an X800XL.

Well... There was a "home" edition of Windows 2000 in development code-named Windows Neptune, but it was canned before its release. I'll bet Neptune did not have SMP support, but we'll never know unless some beta tester has an ISO laying around. It had some pretty neat features for the time too.

I am almost 100% sure that it will work.

What? Do you mean their clock speeds aren't scalable? My 3000+ Athlon 64 S939 overclocks just fine to 2.6 GHz from the default 1.8 GHz. A 800MHz overclock seems pretty scalable to me. Or did you mean that they aren't usable for multiprocessor systems?

It's hard to go wrong with either card. The only reason I returned my 6800GT and got an X800 instead was that the 6800GT had some weird IRQ conflict with my TV tuner card. Of course I'm very glad that I was able to get an X800 Pro VIVO and was able to mod it to an XT PE, but the 6800GT was...

I expereinced no negative effects after flashing, only very positive ones. Maybe it got a little hotter, but I'm not sure since I have a Zalman sandwich on it.

Both cards would work, but only one could be used for gaming on.

I got a 36GB Seagate Cheetah 15k RPM SCSI Ultra160 68pin LVD HDD, a WD 250GB ATA HDD (for RAID-1 storage), and a Palm Tungsten E. The SCSI drive = way fast.

Totally awesome burn dude. Wicked awesome!

I've installed that heatsink on about 20 computers so far and I haven't had any problems. Temps are fine, it's properly secured, and it's easier. This of course won't convince anyone who wants to be absolutely sure, but where's the fun in that?

You don't need to take off the backplate if it's the retail AMD backplate. Just take off the old heatsink, unscrew the plastic mounting tabs, and screw in the zalman "nipples" used to install the zalman heatsink. Then just apply the AS5 and screw the heatsink into place.

That card has a removable graphics chip. They swap an old buggy chip for a new fresh updated chip and put it in the same card. The clamp holds the chip in place on the card without having to solder it on.

I use RM Clock to reduce the multiplyer and voltage on my Athlon 64. It reduces the idle temps, but more importantly, it reduces your computer's power consumption. Unless you're using your computer as a room heater (or running folding@home) less heat is always better.

I'm running all that you see in my sig and my 430 truepower still runs fine. The 12 volts rail dips down to 11.91 or so when I'm overclocking like crazy, but for the most part I have no problems with it.

I've tried 3 sticks of Mushkin blue, 3 sticks of generic DDR 400 and 3 sticks of DDR 333 with the same result.

Yeah, each channel needs to be equal in size to run in dual channel mode, I was just wondering if anyone knew a workaround to get it working in single channel mode with all three slots populated or something.

my rev 2.0 board also shows up as a 1.x in CPU-Z, so I wouldn't worry about it. It's printed quite clearly on the PCB that it's a 2.0 board, so I don't think Asus is lying.

yep, I tried relaxing the timings to 3-4-4-8, but that actually made it return more errors than when it was at 2.5-3-3-7

I'm having a problem with all Nforce2 based motherboards I've tried. If I install 3 sticks of 512MB DDR (333 or 400) for a total of 1.5GB, the motherboard will fail memory tests. If I take one stick out, it runs fine. Each stick tests out fine individually, just when all 3 are in there at once...

All the OEM Athlon 64s at the store I work at have rounded edges like that. Perfectly normal.

The extra heat that your cpu is putting out is increasing the ambient temperature in your case. Your video card is using warmer air to cool it's heatsink, so it's temps go up. You might want to add more cooling fans to your case, or at least optimize the airflow by organizing the cables inside.

there's always dual opterons if you want to go dual...

Yes, alot better. As VIA became a bigger and more successful company, they cleaned up their act with drivers. I have a socket 939 3000+ and an Asus A8V Deluxe Rev. 2 motherboard and I love it. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone building a socket 939 system.

NEVER run a computer without a heatsink on the CPU. It either won't work at all, or it'll burn up in less than a second. Even though modern processors have safety mechanisms built in to prevent heat death, it's still very risky tempt the CPU fates.

I would try clearing the CMOS with the jumper on the motherboard and try raising the voltage again. It cleared up an issue I was having with mine not displaying voltage adjustments in the BIOS, so it's worth a shot for your problem I'd say.

cool, this program is way better than the one that comes with the Asus A8V. a cool CPU is a happy CPU.

I work in a tech shop and I smell that particular aroma all the time. One day I was working on a data transfer and I smelled a burning smell comming out of nowhere. I sniffed around all the computers in the area, and I couldn't find the source. It seemed to be coming in the middle of the tile...

get a small can of brake cleaner from any car parts store. it'll dissolve any gunk and leave a clean surface with no residue. I use it in my tech shop to clean CPUs and such all the time.

they're just trying to cover their asses in case some idiot squirts it all over his CPU and motherboard and fries it. just remember that you only need a small amount and you'll be fine. you're not making a freakin' sandwich here, no need to slap a thick layer on it.

the CMOS clear may have caused the CPU core voltage to shoot up, thus causing the heat. I'd check that, and maybe try either resetting witht he jumper again, or setting to BIOS defaults from within the BIOS

Mine came with 1006. If you're installing a 90nm CPU into it, you can still boot if you have only one stick of RAM in slot 3 (blue), at which point you can flash it to 1007.

It was probably either a pricing mistake, or a marketing move to get people's attention. Obviously if they were losing money for whatever reason, they would have to raise the price sooner or later. They certainly got my attention, and my 3000+ is running at 2.5 GHz

I figured it out. Seems like after I flashed it, (I used the dos-based flash utility from a floppy disk) it didn't load all the new BIOS settings. I cleared the CMOS with the jumper on the motherboard and poof, multiplyer and voltage settings are there. I was wondering why I seemed to be the...

does anyone have this board with 1007 or later BIOS and can verify if they have CPU voltage controll?

I just got a A64 3000+ 939 and a A8V Deluxe. I flashed the A8V to 1007 right away, but now that I've had time to settle down, I cant seem to find the option to raise the CPU core voltage. It shows it in the manual and I'm pretty sure it was there before, but now the option is gone! Am I totally...

Athlon 64 motherboards only have 2 mounting holes, not 4. Your heatsink may be designed for Athlon XP boards instead.

He just wants to know why newegg is price gouging compared to monarch's pricing. It's simply because newegg knows people will dish out the money for such new items and because they can get away with it (while twisting their mustache in a sinister way).

My 3000+ just arrived today, a full day after I placed the order. Wow, that's awesome shipping there. Seems to work well in my A8V Deluxe so far, but I'm going to put it through it's paces and overclock it in a minute, so we'll see how it holds up then. I'd watch these guys in the future, their...

The temps are probably fine, but the 3.3 volt rail seems a bit low. Could be a poor reading on the MSI board, but it could also be a poor quality power supply. What brand and rating is your power supply?

Not anymore, they prices all went to over $200 a few hours after I bought one...