Search results

weird....installing visual studio 2008 hard crashed the system.... i noticed the voltage was fluctuating all over the place because it was going from 6x to 7.5x and back and it was going 1.2V to 1.36V....would that have somethin to do with it?

hmmmm, changing the FSB makes a huge difference! i tried lowering the multipler to 7.5 and changing the FSB to 500. so ram is running 1:1 at 1000Mhz, and CPU clocked at 3750MHz. left all voltages on auto and orthos ran 5 hours stable. i can live with that :P

+1. mounting horizontally made my cpu 10C colder. i wouldn't go as far as not recommend it, it's still a great cooler for a great price. even under load i'm not passing 45C.

everything else is on auto. to my knowledge you only need to adjust the NB and DDR if you're overclocking the RAM right?

according to real temp i idle at ~28-30C and load at ~45C, so that's not a problem. i've scanned the massive thread, but very little of it has posts of what settings were. there is one towards the end which had the vcore at 1.5...which is more than 1.4 which means there's a possibility of...

hi guys, i'm struggling to get my e8400 overclocked. i don't want to exceed the intel recommended max of 1.3625V, and at that voltage the highest i can get is 3779MHz (vdroop = 1.264V according to cpuz). i'm orthos testing right now. 3880MHz failed for sure. i've tried getting it to run at...

* duplicate please delete *

yeh please change the orientation of the kingwin 12025D. i have the same model and i idle at 28C and load at 40C. i have a tower, and for me it works best with the heat pipes parallel to the table. i haven't tried mounting it with the S-curves on the bottom, simply cuz it doesn't look as cool...

correct me if i'm wrong, but i thought AMDs do not overclock very well if at all. even the black edition with multiplier unlocked struggles.

argh, i'm probably sounding like a fanboy, but it really annoys me when people think the TRUE is the behold all of cpu coolers. you guys need to read reviews!!! every review i've read that puts the TRUE vs the xigmatek has temperatures within 1-2C of each other. i got my cooler (kingwin...

xigmatek for the win! (i actually have a kingwin revolution, same as the xig D1284) e8400 OC 3.6 idling 29 load 40

this is incorrect. http://www.frostytech.com/top5heatsinks.cfm the TRUE is currently #3, #1 and #2 are HDT.

if clearance is an issue, get the D1284 instead, it's performs better too. and wow taco...8c and 12c drops are pretty sweet!

maybe that link from tomshardware is for the mobile... BAH i don't know! i just know the difference from one orientation to the other is 10C on my computer. you should try both. i actually have a kingwin revolution, which is the same as the xigmatek s1284, and has 4 heat pipes instead of...

double check where the cores are... the link i posted previous to artic silver appears to be for an older generation... for the E8000 series, the core appears to be horizontal rather than vertical, as seen here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/wolfdale-steroids,1777-6.html i'm...

slightly off topic... my 2nd core is 5-10C hotter than my 1st core. is this a mounting issue, grease issue, or it's just the processor and doesn't matter?

i'm assuming u have a core 2, so it might be worth while looking at this: http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appinstruct/as5/ins_as5_intel_dual_wcap.pdf i've tried both orientations, and having the pipes perpendicular to the rectangle works better by 2-3C than having the pipes parallel.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5

*double post*

i can recommend the xigmatek heatsinks. i have a kingwin 12025d, which is the same as the 1284 from xigmatek (this one is good cuz it's a lot less tall, but still 120mm fan). it's also $20 cheaper than the ultra 120, and only about 2-3C more.

this is what it looks like! and since u can't really see the front, here's a review of my case: http://www.ocia.net/reviews/apeviaxqboii/page1.shtml

yeah, i just pulled hard and the fan came off....those rubber things are much more durable than they look. for all 4 of them i thought it would rip when i pulled. they should really have this in the manual or something... anyways, for people on the internet who find this: to remove the...

i thought maybe switching the 2 in the back to be intake and the front to be exhaust might work...since more air is directed at the cpu heatsink, but then i have 2 exhausts (front and power supply) and flow is kinda messed up. i'd also move more heat towards all the drives which is probably bad.

brilliant idea! thanks! now there's no overlap in the side fan and cpu fan!!!

how should i install fans to cool my computer the best? here are some pictures of my setup: right now, the front is a 120mm intake. i got 2x80mm in the back as exhaust. the side panel has holes for a 120mm fan that i'm going to install when i get a video card. do u think...

they definitely don't unscrew....i'm thinking you need to pinch the rubber things together, but i don't have nosebleed pliers right now :(

sorry for the n00bish question...i'm feeling kinda stupid. haha.... anyways, this review here says it's possible: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/scythe-zipang-xigmatek-hdtd1284_4.html "The fan is very easy to remove." that just makes be feel stupid :P how do i...

i actually created an account the post the exact problem you have. i even have the same board. and i'm getting the same results you are getting. i thought maybe my RAM was defective because i couldn't get it to work at 1000Mhz/5-5-5-15. the most i got was 900Mhz. but then i tried using AI...