As title suggested, I am selling
Ballistx Tracer PC2-6400 DDR800 2x1gb kit with Leds $35 shipped.
4-4-4-12 timing
Working as it took out of my system. I just got a 4gb kit to replace these.
Reference: ebay supergamma
Paypal only.
It is a lot easier to avoid and catch the metal shaving from drilling rivets than drilling a blow hole. especially we are talking about a 120mm directly above MB while rivets are near the corner of the case.
Well, there is another way, less hassle and low risk. Instead of take you equipment out or put a rag. Why don't you just drill out the rivets and take entire top panel off? when you done, just pop it back on with a rivet gun. Simple and easy with minimal risk to your hardware.
Btw, if you getting the Zalmen Vf700cu then why you still want to H2O your gpu? kinda waste isn't it?
Check the faq before post, it helps a lot. I think is that what you call learning.
Kingwin=same noise, worst temps, cheaper.
dangerden=same or less noise depending fan you using, probably a few nexus will help.
better temps, more expensive, and looks good.
wow, all that for a pc just to check emails and gloat at you? hehe You better hope he give you the pc after you finish building it.
Back on topic.
Just get everything from swiftech.
MCP655-pump
Storm block.
Mcw-55 gpu x2
the swiftech dual 120mm rad or a DD BIP is good. Or triple...
remove the kit, install the stock cooler and see if same problem occurs. That way at least you know is the aqua kit or the hardware problem. Check under the waterblock for the protective film.
Also go into bios and check the temp there. and turn off CPU fan shutdown feature if your aqua...
Hmm, I think you got it backwards. BIX is for higher CFM fans and BIP is for low cfm fans. BIX will perform better than BIP. If your budget allows you, try take a look at the PA120.3 too. It is pretty highly praised rad. Search for other threads.
the swiftech 6000 is great for both low flow and high flow configuration at a very reasonable price. Please do consider the swiftech block comes with 3/8 barb size. You will need to either stretch the current tube over it or find adaptor for it.
The acrylic is very easy to crack when working with deeper than 1/4" cuts. So you must use coolant to keep it from melting and go slow with the drill and hole cutter. Guess what, you have to use coolant or cutting fluid even when you tapping. The current version top is 3/8" thick. I will...
I have posted a thread before about me doing a DIY acrylic top for my DDC pump. I know many people already changed to the D5, but i still like my DDC and like to make the best performance out of it and make it look good too. I didn't gain the access to the CNC machine so everything on this is...
sigh, i am really disappointed at people on this forum. Read my post, there is nothing about personal attacks. It is all directed toward the statement. If there is any attack then it is attacking the statement TN made, not at TN.
If an straight forward statement requesting facts and stats...
1. I can't tell from your blurry pictures. I would guess you took off the drive cage to fit the board.
2. If i get a work log everytime i change the case to fit some hardware then i will have tons of worklog.
3. Your attitude is abosolutely horrible. We had people doing worklog for just...
http://www.pctekonline.com/12x12cmcasefan.html
I bought 2 of these fans from this site and found out they are indeed Black Medium Speed Yate Loons, runs very quiet in 7v and almost silent in 5v. Just let you guys know incase anyone interested.
Yes, i have read the whole thread.
Again, looks great......
Data? none
What is the actual temp on it? You dunno.
Does it make your system runs twice as fast and dead silent? No Clue.
Now tell me something else that is not based on looks but actual numbers.
So... In another words...
Please support with fact and stats that is the greatest before you claim it. Please don't tell me the germen engineering crap. It is not the greatest just because it is made in germany or by AC.
From your post, i am sure you havn't got it in your hand yet, what is so great about it...
It really depends on how close the factory spec compares to real world ratings. TT is the worst example.
I like to use Yate Loon fans as they are pretty close to factory spec in the real world setting.
Back to topic, that bingchi water block remind me of old DD blocks for some reason.
wow 40oz, maybe my whole loop contain less than that amount. Draining that must be a pita, but then again, probably only take a few mins to bleed on refills. Nice diy res.
using a fillport usually means a Tee is included. When you filling, if you can make sure the Tee is the at the highest point of your entire wc equipment, then will take lesser time to bleed out the air.
Whenever you splice a few wires into one, maybe you should check the load on the wires and make sure the single wires can handle it. Or else you will have a fun time cleaning off the melted wire wrapings and have some shorted hardware. Don't gamble on this, it could start an electrical fire...
Seeing AC gets mention is totally not a surprise!! Another interesting GPU block will be Cather's gpu block, no one has seen it yet. I wonder if he is done with it.
it is a tight fit, i have a pc-7b and currently trying to install a dual rad from swiftech on the top. when it is all the way in the front, it is less than 2 inches away from PSU.
if you share information on this is ok, but not for advertise your own sale through here.
Dillusion, i want to make a better one, before i perfect it, i don't want to offer any anything
pushing will have the effect of fighting rebound air turbulance while pulling doesn't. So even with a higher cfm fan, you might still get worst air flow compare to pulling since you will have more rebound air to fight off.