LG 48C6 OLED48C6PUA evo AI C6 4K Smart TV 2026

The Black Level and Near Black Detail settings can significantly improve detail in blacks (preventing "black crush"). If you are losing shadow details in dark areas, adjusting these specific controls, along with a few others, will reveal those hidden elements without washing out your picture.

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Key Settings to Improve Near-Black Detail
You can use the following adjustments in your LG menu (Settings > All Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness) to optimize shadow detail:

Setting Name	Target Value / Action	How It Improves Black Detail
Near Black Detail	Boost by +1 to +3	Selectively lifts the lowest luminance steps (just above pure black) without raising the master black level. This is the most effective tool for rescuing crushed shadow details.
Black Level	Adjust to 51 or 52	Slightly shifts the absolute floor. Moving it up to 51 or 52 can instantly bring back crushed details, though setting it too high (53+) will turn pure blacks into a dark gray.
Dynamic Tone Mapping	Set to HGIG or On	For HDR content/gaming. Set to HGIG if your game has an in-game calibration menu. If a movie looks too dark or crushed overall, turning Dynamic Tone Mapping On will dynamically lift the mid-tones and dark highlights.
Expression Enhancer	Set to Detail	Uses the processor to intelligently analyze the scene and sharpen contrast specifically around fine details in dark and bright backgrounds.

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Visualizing Black Level Calibration (Gamma Curve)
When your display suffers from Black Crush, it means the display is cutting off the near-black signals too early, rendering subtle grays as pure black. Boosting the Near Black Detail or slightly nudging the Black Level lifts that bottom curve back into visibility.

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External Factors: Check Your RGB Range
If your blacks are severely crushed (where everything dark looks like a massive blob of pure black), it is often a mismatch between your source device and the TV.

• The Fix: If you are using a PC, PS5, or Xbox, ensure that the console/PC output resolution matches the TV. Go to Advanced Settings > Brightness > Video Range on your LG.
• If your device is set to Limited (16-235), the TV should be set to Limited/Auto.
• If your device is set to Full (0-255), the TV must be set to Full. A mismatch here is the number one cause of severe black crush or severely washed-out screens.

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Not all of the "Key Settings to Improve Near-Black Detail" are usable when gaming: when you play HDR PC games in Filmmaker Mode (FMM) with ALLM active, your TV locks out or limits specific settings to guarantee low latency and maintain professional accuracy.
Here is how each key setting behaves in this specific configuration on your 48" LG C6:

Settings That Are Disabled or Restricted

• Near Black Detail: This setting is completely disabled (grayed out). In filmmaker mode with active low-latency gaming, processing tricks that adjust gamma tracking close to zero are disabled to prevent the processing delay that would increase input lag.
• Expression Enhancer: This feature is grayed out. Expression Enhancer relies heavily on the Alpha 11 AI Processor to do real-time frame analysis and sharpen contrast. Because ALLM bypasses complex AI-assisted processing pipelines to keep input lag at a minimum, this feature cannot be turned on. [1, 2, 3]

Settings That Remain Usable

• Black Level: This control stays fully functional. Because it acts as a baseline hardware voltage adjustment for the black floor rather than a dynamic processing algorithm, you can still alter it (e.g., nudging it from 50 to 51) to instantly lift crushed blacks.
• Dynamic Tone Mapping (HGIG / DTM): This remains fully usable and will be your primary tool. Since you are on a PC, selecting HGIG is the highly recommended choice. It disables the TV's internal tone mapping so you can map your shadow details accurately using the Windows HDR Calibration App or in-game calibration sliders. [1, 2]

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The Ultimate Fix for PC FMM Black Crush
If you find your near-black detail is crushed in this mode, you cannot use "Near Black Detail" to fix it. Instead, you should rely on your PC source settings: [1]

1. Use the Windows HDR Calibration Tool: Leave the TV's Black Level at 50, ensure the TV is set to HGIG, and run the Windows calibration utility. Pay extreme attention to the first screen (the black level test) and raise the slider until the gray block just barely disappears. [1, 2]
2. Fine-Tune Dark Areas (Game Dashboard): While the main picture menu blocks "Near Black Detail", press the Settings button to pull up the LG Game Dashboard/Optimizer overlay. The Fine-Tune Dark Areas or Black Stabilizer slider can occasionally be adjusted here even when ALLM is forcing Filmmaker Mode, lifting dark shadows directly through the gaming module.

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1. Install ReShade
   and select the Lilium shaders during installation, so you have the necessary tools.

• 
  
• Install RenoDX
  for the specific game. This often involves copying files into the game's installation folder.
  
  
• 
  
• Configure the shaders in-game:
  • Load the Lilium shaders in ReShade.
• 
  
• Place the Lilium HDR black floor fix shader above the other shaders in your ReShade preset. Place the HDR analysis tool below everything else.
  
  
• 
  
• Use the HDR analysis shader to help you adjust. You can turn off some options like "brightness from cursor" for a clearer view. This tool can provide you a good read on a game's native black floor value when you view the analysis while in a dark scene in the game, so that you can input that value into ILLIUM'S panel in the"before" settings.
  
  
• 
  
• Open the settings for the Lilium HDR black floor fix and enable the "black floor lowering" button.
  
  
• 
  
• Adjust the "old black point" slider until a faint white line just disappears at the bottom of the histogram or a faint white line on your screen disappears. This indicates that the black floor has been lowered correctly.
  
  
• 
  
• You can also fine-tune the "rolloff point" for more contrast, but the primary goal is to eliminate the white line with the "old black point" slider. The rolloff point adjustment will help to preserve (or show in the first place where a game's native HDR may fail to) details in black ~ the low end.

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Basic install of Reshade + Lillium (+ Shader Toggler optionally) :

..You run the Reshade installer once for each game you want to use it on, where in the end it automatically adds a "reshade-shaders" folder to the game's directory.

..During the install, you pick your game you want it to "inject" those folders into, and then it prompts you with a list of checkboxes next to module names, (with a short downward scroll on each page), where you select which shaders/modules you want to add.

..Choose all of the Lillium shaders from those lists, checking all of the boxes next to the modules named Lillium. You may also want to add "Shader Toggler" from those lists for later use, or get it from the shader to github page. You don't need any of the other shader modules from those lists. In fact, if you install and leave any of the default Reshade modules or other Reshade modules enabled, it can cause a performance hit. Adding more will also just overpopulate the modules list for no good reason. You can also get the the Lilium files from the Lilium github page if you want to manually put them into the reshade folders from the .7z file instead.

Reshade effects selection screen during install

..The "LiLium hdr black fix" and the "Lilium sdr and hdr analizer " work well with the RenoDX mods, and will later allow you to find your game's black floor and adjust to a new black floor + new rolloff so that blacks aren't lifted, while avoiding lost detail-in-darks.

..In the end, the single RenoDX mod you download separately for the specific game from the RenoDX mods repository (if available for that game) does not use reshade shaders as a post-process. According to the dev, the RenoDX mods operate on the direct X shaders pre-process, working with the native HDR of the game, and are just using Reshade as the api to operate on those from. You simply copy the single mod file (e.g. " renodx-cp2077.addon64 " into the same directory as your game's exe.

When you launch the game after you've installed Reshade onto it and dropped the RenoDX mod into the exe's directory, reshade will load with the game automatically. To see the reshade panels after the game has fully loaded, hit the reshade hotkey, which is the "home" key by default.

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. .

RenoDX 's primary goal is to fix bad HDR implementations where games clip and lose details, wash out color, have inadequate color saturation, etc. Then the Lilium HDR Black Floor Fix is used to fix the low end.

Additionally, the RenoDX mod for a particular game can do a few other things, too - like they can remove film grain, edit other DX shaders, etc. Some RenoDX mods for a game also allow you to change the brightness of the HUD, or remove it entirely. As stated above, the RenoDX module for a game, if avaialble for that title, operates on the native HDR of the game, when a game has native HDR and HDR is enabled in the game's own settings.

If you aren't happy with the settings the dev used by default in the RenoDX mod for your particular game, the Reshade menu (home key is the hotkey by default for the popup) has a RenoDX panel that pops up right alongside where you can modify or enable/disable settings and values of the mod, moving sliders, etc.

If you think the black floor is raised and/or detail-in-darks are lost in a game (especially on an oled screen), the "Lilium HDR Black Floor Fix" is where it's at to fine tune that.

Don't forget that you can right click any module within Reshade in order to assign it a hotkey. That way, you can toggle any of the modules on and off without having to go back to the menus and enable/disable their checkmark. You can also do sets of modules to a single hotkey if you want to mess with the "Shader Toggler" addon. After doing that, you can hit a hotkey to enable/disable the HDR analyzer tool, for example, which is very useful.

. .

RenoDX can also be used to "inject HDR" to SDR games similar to Nvidia RTX HDR, Windows Auto HDR. An important difference, other than the ones in the quote below this, is that RenoDX can provide a HUD dimming function in the game mod's settings panel for HUD, where RTX HDR can make the huds "HDR bright" along with the normal scene.

this next quote is a redditor quote

RTX HDR I feel like has a huge performance cost, funky gamma, and overly bright unnatural whites. It's good at debanding, but that's also why it has a big performance cost.

AutoHDR has massive caveats, as in it needs to be corrected via reshade or icc profiles since Windows has a gamma-mismatch with it enabled. But, when setup correctly I really like this solution as it perserves artistic intent, applies to pre-rendered cutscenes, and has abit more brightness headroom for an inverse tonemapper compared to SpecialK and RTX HDR. It also has very low performance cost relative to the other options. Added benefit of being anti-cheat safe, can force on non-white listed games using https://github.com/ledoge/autohdr_force.

Setup to correct gamut mismatch:
easiest : https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgaming/c..._how_to_get_windows_auto_hdr_to_look_how_its/

dank: https://github.com/dylanraga/win11hdr-srgb-to-gamma2.2-icm (it might not be that dank anymore if the ICC profile system is improved on the latest windows 11 update, but i'm not sure as I never tried it on that version)

danker personal method: https://github.com/dylanraga/win11hdr-srgb-to-gamma2.2-icm/issues/60

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. .

Mods vs Game Updates:
Another thing worth mentioning is that: "Using Reshade simplifies all the hooks necessary to tap into DirectX without worrying about patching version-specific exe files." . That should avoid the pain in the ass it would be waiting on updates to mods for every patch a game puts out.

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Cons of RenoDX:

..There are game-specific RenoDX mods published by RenoDX devs, and not every game has a mod for it yet.
.. It's primarily for single player games, because mods can be flagged by anti-cheat engines.
..The native settings of a mod may not be 100% to your liking for some games (but you can modifty and tweak the settings in the mod's menu).
..Some people have to disable raytracing to get it to work on certain games, but afaik that's not always the case.


Performance / frame rates:

RenoDX is an HDR mod that has a minimal impact on frame rate, often less than the performance cost of other HDR solutions like RTX HDR
. It enhances visual quality by rewriting game shaders rather than using post-processing effects, leading to more efficient performance that is comparable to a game's native HDR implementation.

RenoDX performance and efficiency

Low FPS impact: RenoDX works by rewriting a game's rendering shaders from within its DirectX API layer, rather than adding a heavy post-processing layer. Because it functions more like a native HDR setting, the frame rate cost is typically a few percentage points at most. This is more efficient than methods like RTX HDR, which has been reported to cause frame rate drops of 10% or more on powerful hardware.
Superior to software alternatives: Reviewers and users frequently report that RenoDX provides a more accurate and visually stunning HDR image with better performance than alternatives such as Auto HDR or RTX HDR. This is because it works on the game's actual rendering data, revealing details lost when converting from SDR to HDR.

Factors that influence performance
While RenoDX itself is very efficient, the overall frame rate still depends on several variables:

• GPU power: A powerful graphics card is essential for high performance, especially at higher resolutions and with more demanding graphical settings.
• Game-specific optimizations: The mod requires custom integration for different games, though the core toolset supports a wide range of DirectX 9, 11, and 12 titles. Performance can vary between games depending on the quality of the mod's implementation.
• Additional settings: The optional color grading tools and visual effects included in some game-specific RenoDX packages, such as those for V Rising or Cyberpunk 2077, could add a minor performance overhead.

The RenoDX experience
For most gamers, the performance tradeoff for using RenoDX is negligible compared to the significant visual enhancement it provides. The HDR output is often considered the best available on PC, offering:

Increased visual detail: Makes previously hidden details in dark or bright areas clearly visible.
Correct gamma and colors: Provides accurate color representation, avoiding the washed-out or oversaturated look of some other HDR solutions.
Adjustable settings: Allows for user customization of brightness, contrast, and color to match personal preference and monitor capabilities.

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. . . . .

Using Lilium HDR Black Floor Fix:

Go to a dark area in the game. Hit home key and enable the "Lilium sdr and hdr analyzer". There will be a block of several rows in the upper left corner of your screen, showing you the nit's of what the cursor is pointing at. Move the cursor to the darkest part of the scene. That should give you a reading on the nits of the black floor, some decimal value. It's kind of like using a color picker app or the medicine dropper tool from photoshop (though you don't have to click, just move the mouse around).

I pointed the mouse (cursor) at something brighter than the blacks in this example, just to show the interface.

Input that black floor value into the Lilium HDR Black Floor Fix menu in the section under "black floor lowering", where on the right side it says "old black point". Then set your new black point (2 down from that field). Once you have all of that set, you can mess with the roll-off stopping point , which is the input field in between those two. The roll-off value can help to maintain or regain the details in darks. That all varies per game so you have to fiddle with the values, but make sure to use as accurate a value as you can get from the analyzer for the "old black point" entry field.

Remember that you can set up hotkeys for both the black floor fix and the sdr+hdr analyzer tool, (indvidually or together with a single hotkey via the shader toggler addon) so you can toggle them on and off. That makes it easy to compare the default black levels and rolloff vs what you are tweaking on the fly.

When I set up Lilium, it had an error saying it required a hdr colour space. I tried a lot of things to get it to work. I think that perhaps the way my LG CX swaps over to HDR mode when launching a game is out of sync with reshade loading or something. Not certain. I disabled nvidia overlay, steam overlay, etc. made a new windows hdr calibration color profile, etc. to no avail. However, I ended up finding the fix someone suggested in a forum. You have to put an override in the Lilium menu's "CSP_OVERRIDE" entry field.

Override done by clicking in the CSP_OVERRIDE field and then just start typing "CSP_HDR10" is a a fix for if you get the colour space error.

You have to override it for any of the Lilium modules you enable if you get the hdr colour space error, , but you probably only need this "HDR Black Floor Fix" one running, other than using the analysis tool. The alalysis tool you enable gives no such errors so you don't need to do any override there.

"Hell Is Us" game example screen cap from PlasmaForTV channel show that with the analyzer running, his mouse detected an old black floor of 0.2170000 nits and that he manually entered that value. He then set it up to be corrected by putting 0.0000000 nit in the "new black point field. Then he adjusted the rolloff value to where he prefered it, to preserve details in darks.

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elvn said:

I would ask here, or search that thread first. Note that when searching, things can change between different firmwares so older results might not be the same as it is now.


https://www.avsforum.com/threads/20...-b6-evo-no-price-talk-please.3331728/page-235

There are some higher level professional calibrators on that forum and in that thread who are trying to squeeze the most out of these screens (C6, C6H, G6). Most of them seem like good people. There is at least one curmudgeon on the thread though, so don't be surprised about that.


. . .


Personally, I'm mainly using my PC OLED gaming tv for gaming, with some media usage. On single player games I can typically utilize reshade and renoDX mods to make HDR better or to lift SDR to quasi HDR better. There is also a reshade plugin called "Lilium's HDR black floor fix" which is typically used to drop games that have raised black floors down for OLED screens. You do do the opposite with it and tweak the blacks lighter though, to see more, too. Reshade and/or RenoDX are not suitable work-arounds for online/compeitive games though since they can be flagged as cheats.

There are black level controls in the screen's OSD though.

Here is the google result below of the TV OSD side of things. People on that thread would have better insight since they own the tv and are tweaking it themselves. I won't own a 48" C6 (or potentially a 55" G6) until early november or so, depending on sales I can catch.



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Liliums Black Floor Fix, brief overview:

You can use the Lilium HDR black floor fix alone or with RenoDX on HDR games, as they are designed to be used together to fix raised black levels and enhance detail. RenoDX addresses the overall lack of detail and potential washout in HDR, while the Lilium black floor fix specifically targets the issue of blacks appearing gray, not truly black, which can occur even when using other HDR solutions.

How to use them together




- - - - - - - - -

Long scroll version of Liliums Black Floor Fix + RenoDX if you want more detailed step by step:

-- Warning: long scroll of contents in this quote ----

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guganez said:

I asked about it there three times; the third time, someone replied but thought I was talking about a defect rather than a setting (Brightness - Near Black Detail). My main question for LG was whether it’s now possible to boost shadow detail when watching HDR/DV content (without resorting to DTM), and it looks like I finally can (similar to Samsung’s ST.2084 adjustment).

For gaming on the TV, I use a PS5; I don't have the patience for tweaking AAA games on PC anymore.

Thanks for the reply—I’m going to give LG another shot; I’m just undecided between the 48-inch Tandem model and the "conventional" 55-inch WOLED.

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elvn said:

There are global settings on the tv mentioned in the previous reply, which might help for consoles as well as PC. There is also also Windows HDR calibration tool on PC.

The Lilium black floor fix for pc games is more for games that are individually "broken" black levels to different amounts, so that pc gamers can adjust those on a per game basis since adjusting globally for different degrees off wouldn't work as well (since they might each have a different black floor).

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guganez said:

I was referring to AVS. I translate my responses, so I might have expressed myself poorly.

My issue with the LG regarding shadow detail arises when watching content in HDR/DV. For gaming, it's fine.

In any case, I'll put it to the test during the next sale.

The agonizing dilemma is whether to adjust my distance for a 48" tandem or choose a 55" one.

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The Black Level and Near Black Detail settings can significantly improve detail in blacks (preventing "black crush"). If you are losing shadow details in dark areas, adjusting these specific controls, along with a few others, will reveal those hidden elements without washing out your picture.

Click to expand...

Key Settings to Improve Near-Black Detail
You can use the following adjustments in your LG menu (Settings > All Settings > Picture > Advanced Settings > Brightness) to optimize shadow detail:

Click to expand...

Setting Name	Target Value / Action	How It Improves Black Detail
Near Black Detail	Boost by +1 to +3	Selectively lifts the lowest luminance steps (just above pure black) without raising the master black level. This is the most effective tool for rescuing crushed shadow details.
Black Level	Adjust to 51 or 52	Slightly shifts the absolute floor. Moving it up to 51 or 52 can instantly bring back crushed details, though setting it too high (53+) will turn pure blacks into a dark gray.
Dynamic Tone Mapping	Set to HGIG or On	For HDR content/gaming. Set to HGIG if your game has an in-game calibration menu. If a movie looks too dark or crushed overall, turning Dynamic Tone Mapping On will dynamically lift the mid-tones and dark highlights.
Expression Enhancer	Set to Detail	Uses the processor to intelligently analyze the scene and sharpen contrast specifically around fine details in dark and bright backgrounds.

---

Visualizing Black Level Calibration (Gamma Curve)
When your display suffers from Black Crush, it means the display is cutting off the near-black signals too early, rendering subtle grays as pure black. Boosting the Near Black Detail or slightly nudging the Black Level lifts that bottom curve back into visibility.

Click to expand...

External Factors: Check Your RGB Range
If your blacks are severely crushed (where everything dark looks like a massive blob of pure black), it is often a mismatch between your source device and the TV.

• The Fix: If you are using a PC, PS5, or Xbox, ensure that the console/PC output resolution matches the TV. Go to Advanced Settings > Brightness > Video Range on your LG.
• If your device is set to Limited (16-235), the TV should be set to Limited/Auto.
• If your device is set to Full (0-255), the TV must be set to Full. A mismatch here is the number one cause of severe black crush or severely washed-out screens.

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zehoo said:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IFVTcM28KA

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Approximately 157.1 million people in the United States use digital voice assistants on a regular basis as of 2026. [1]

Usage and Platform Breakdown

• • Google Assistant: Reaches roughly 92 million users in the United States, making it the most widely used assistant primarily via mobile devices. [1]
  • Apple Siri: Accounts for about 86.5 million users, heavily driven by iPhone and iOS device penetration. [1]
  • Amazon Alexa: Powers smart home devices and smart speakers in tens of millions of U.S. households, with active user estimates around 77 million. [1, 2]

Device and Listening Habits

• • Smart Speakers: Roughly 35% of Americans aged 12 and older own a dedicated smart speaker (such as an Amazon Echo or Google Nest), meaning roughly 101 million people have a home device actively listening for a wake word. [1]
  • Mobile Domination: Over 88% of voice assistant usage happens on smartphones rather than dedicated home hardware, as users frequently invoke voice search on-the-go. [1]
  • Active Engagement: Nearly 46% of the U.S. population interacts with voice technology on at least a weekly basis for tasks like weather, music, or quick searches. [1]

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• lgtvcommon.com
• lgsmartad.com
• nextlgsdp.com
• lge.com
• wise.lg.com
• lgsmartplatform.com

Other domains mentioned in the video:

• pagead2.googlesyndication.com;
• imasdk.googleapis.com;
• static.doubleclick.net;
• brignline.tv
• adstk.io
• conviva.com
• axiom.co
• ipify.org

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Amazon Fire TV & Roku Lawsuits

Amazon Fire TV: A federal class-action lawsuit filed against Amazon alleges that Fire TV devices and software continuously use ACR technology to capture and analyze audio, visual data, and on-screen habits from connected inputs and apps to fuel targeted advertising profiles without explicit consent.
Roku: Roku has faced multiple state-level enforcement actions and class actions (such as lawsuits filed by Michigan and Florida attorneys general) accusing the platform of harvesting viewing history, precise location data, and voice recordings from remote controls—specifically targeting children's data collection without parental notice.

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Big Tech Voice Assistant Settlements

Apple TV & Siri: Apple agreed to a $95 million class-action settlement resolving claims that Siri-enabled devices (which explicitly include the Apple TV) unintentionally activated during private conversations and recorded audio data that was subsequently evaluated or handled improperly.
Google TV & Google Assistant: Google settled a major privacy lawsuit addressing allegations that Google Assistant-enabled hardware inappropriately recorded private conversations when hot words were not used, utilizing ambient room audio for ad-targeting parameters.

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elvn said:

Some people claim to have blacklists for their router or pihole device that cover all of the "known" LG bases , but doing a firmware update (via usb stick) could potentially change those domains/hosts on you at some point. I don't think that is the best way to do it. People doing that are probably trying maintain connectivity in order to use the TV smart apps. I'm fine with writing those off and using an external box in my living room and bedroom, and not doing any smart streaming apps like netflix, etc at my pc at all.

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zehoo said:

View: https://youtu.be/jUU_cOyzaC8?si=0-sHaRSM6yLLbWXO

https://www.avforums.com/reviews/lg-48-inch-g6-oled48g6-oled-tv-review.23884/

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The side by side ultra contrast at the pixel level that per pixel emissive provides creates a "3D" relief where the blacks are much deeper vs. the lighted colors. Light things appear nearer to our brains, and dark things appear deeper/recessed. OLED is great for that effect, but when you cover it in a matte abraded layer and that layer gets any ambient light, you raise the blacks and flatten them again. QD OLED also flattens due to the QD layer being hit by ambient light lifting the blacks, and via the purple tint. Aka the poseterboard effect (flat looking image). FALD can have deep blacks in larger fields of black areas, but in and around lit objects it lifts the blacks toward the native VA contrast of the screen, so it also has a flat look by comparison. The FALD tech cleverly blends those raised areas toward the darker areas seamlessly for the most part, but the light areas of scenes and faces, etc. are lifted blacks which flattens the look.

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elvn said:

The 48 G6 (gee-six) isn't available in the usa, though, anyway. At this point I may get a 55" G6 in novermber sales next month if I can catch a decent price on it from best buy, or from LG partner store with my discount. I can sit at a max of 48 inches away with my setup, which should work out fine.

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<googled result>

Window Size	Metric Type	TCL 50QM6K	LG G6 55" FMM mode + ALLM	Real-World Behavior
2% Window	Peak (Momentary) Sustained	~550 nits ~540 nits	~3,100 – 3,400 nits ~1,200 nits	Tiny Highlights: Stars or sparks hit maximum ceiling on the G6 before dropping down to protect the panel. The TCL clamps aggressively to eliminate blooming.
10% Window	Peak (Momentary) Sustained	~691 nits ~680 nits	~2,500 nits ~1,126 nits	Standard Highlights: Flashlights or explosions have massive specular impact on the G6, while the entry-level TCL stays completely uniform.
25% Window	Peak (Momentary) Sustained	~876 nits ~850 nits	~1,400 nits ~1,134 nits	Medium Objects: The TCL QM6K pushes its highest output here. The LG G6 continues to outmuscle it, holding steady above 1,100 nits continuously.
50% Window	Peak (Momentary) Sustained	~726 nits ~700 nits	~920 nits ~900 nits	Bright Environments: The flagship tandem OLED easily sustains a brighter image across half the screen than the budget Mini-LED backlight matrix.
100% Window	Peak (Momentary) Sustained	~505 nits ~450 nits	~480 nits ~440 – 465 nits	Full Screen: On an entire screen of white (like a hockey rink), the two are neck-and-neck. The LG G6 hovers around 440–465 nits sustained on recent firmware, matching the TCL's sustained power.

Firmware Real-World Differences

• LG G6 Firmwares (The "Nerf" vs. "Correction" Debate): Early launch firmware allowed the G6 to push close to 500 nits sustained on a 100% window. Reports across forums like RTINGS note that newer updates (like 43.10.69 / 43.21.60) slightly lowered full-screen limits to ~440-465 nits. However, the same firmware unlocked the peak 2% and 10% windows, raising them from 2500 up past 3100+ nits to favor small specular highlight pop over massive full-screen fatigue.
• TCL QM6K Thermal Flatline: The 50" QM6K utilizes a standard structural power supply. It does not possess a "burst" feature; its momentary flash brightness and sustained brightness are practically identical because the panel relies on strict constant current rather than relying on a heavy algorithm boost.

</end googled result >

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MistaSparkul said:

The G5 can actually be bought the in US now: https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/1wae5la/lg_g5_48_now_available_in_us_for_999/

So maybe sometime next year the 48G6 will be available in the US, and if the G7 isn't a crazy upgrade then it would be a good option. I'm hoping to return to 4K gaming sometime next year so I'm keeping my options open, a 48G6 would be great.

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Complete Click-to-Photon Matrix: FMM vs. Game Optimizer Mode

Data targets your RTX 50-series card, Ryzen 7 9800X3D, DLSS Quality, and DLSS 5 ON (Path Tracing OFF). Peripheral USB lag is fixed at 2.0ms.


Total Lag=Peripheral (2ms)+Native PC Lag+FG x2 Penalty+Dynamic Display Lag

Game / GPU & Mode Setting	Visual FPS	Native PC Engine Lag	FG x2 Pipeline Penalty	LG G6 Display Lag	Total Click-to-Photon Lag
1. Cyberpunk 2077
── RTX 5090 (Filmmaker Mode)	115 FPS	30.0ms	+3.0ms	13.7ms (Near-optimal)	48.7ms Total
── RTX 5090 (Game Optimizer)	115 FPS	30.0ms	+3.0ms	5.4ms	40.4ms Total
── RTX 5080 (Filmmaker Mode)	90 FPS	38.0ms	+4.0ms	16.0ms	60.0ms Total
── RTX 5080 (Game Optimizer)	90 FPS	38.0ms	+4.0ms	7.7ms	51.7ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Filmmaker Mode)	65 FPS	50.0ms	+8.0ms	19.5ms	79.5ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Game Optimizer)	65 FPS	50.0ms	+8.0ms	11.2ms	71.2ms Total
2. The Witcher 3 Remaster
── RTX 5090 (Filmmaker Mode)	117 FPS	34.0ms	+4.0ms	13.5ms (Pinned Floor)	53.5ms Total
── RTX 5090 (Game Optimizer)	117 FPS	34.0ms	+4.0ms	5.2ms (Pinned Floor)	45.2ms Total
── RTX 5080 (Filmmaker Mode)	95 FPS	42.0ms	+6.0ms	15.5ms	65.5ms Total
── RTX 5080 (Game Optimizer)	95 FPS	42.0ms	+6.0ms	7.2ms	57.2ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Filmmaker Mode)	65 FPS	55.0ms	+10.0ms	19.5ms	86.5ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Game Optimizer)	65 FPS	55.0ms	+10.0ms	11.2ms	78.2ms Total
3. Black Myth: Wukong
── RTX 5090 (Filmmaker Mode)	117 FPS	21.0ms	+4.0ms	13.5ms (Pinned Floor)	40.5ms Total (Saved 3ms via Headroom)
── RTX 5090 (Game Optimizer)	117 FPS	21.0ms	+4.0ms	5.2ms (Pinned Floor)	32.2ms Total (Elite Responsiveness)
── RTX 5080 (Filmmaker Mode)	105 FPS	31.0ms	+5.0ms	14.5ms	52.5ms Total
── RTX 5080 (Game Optimizer)	105 FPS	31.0ms	+5.0ms	6.2ms	44.2ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Filmmaker Mode)	78 FPS	44.0ms	+8.0ms	17.5ms	71.5ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Game Optimizer)	78 FPS	44.0ms	+8.0ms	9.2ms	63.2ms Total
4. Elden Ring (Unlocked)
── RTX 5090 (Filmmaker Mode)	117 FPS	17.5ms	+4.0ms	13.5ms (Pinned Floor)	37.0ms Total (Saved 2.5ms via Headroom)
── RTX 5090 (Game Optimizer)	117 FPS	17.5ms	+4.0ms	5.2ms (Pinned Floor)	28.7ms Total (Faster than Native 60 FPS)
── RTX 5080 (Filmmaker Mode)	117 FPS	22.0ms	+5.0ms	13.5ms (Pinned Floor)	42.5ms Total
── RTX 5080 (Game Optimizer)	117 FPS	22.0ms	+5.0ms	5.2ms (Pinned Floor)	34.2ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Filmmaker Mode)	117 FPS	31.0ms	+7.0ms	13.5ms (Pinned Floor)	53.5ms Total
── RTX 5070 (Game Optimizer)	117 FPS	31.0ms	+7.0ms	5.2ms (Pinned Floor)	45.2ms Total

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Critical Analysis of the 117 FPS Cap Shift

• The RTX 5090 Engine Latency Drop (): Look closely at Black Myth: Wukong and Elden Ring on the RTX 5090. Because the card naturally wants to push 145 FPS and 180 FPS respectively, forcing a 117 FPS cap gives the GPU massive computing breathing room. This prevents internal frame stacking, dropping your Native PC Engine Lag down to 17.5ms to 21.0ms.
• The 5080 / 5070 Elden Ring Rescues: In Elden Ring, the engine load is lightweight enough that even the RTX 5080 and 5070 hit your 117 FPS limit. This pins the display lag to the minimum floor (13.5ms for FMM / 5.2ms for Game Optimizer) and completely prevents the dynamic VRR latency climb.
• The Sub-30ms Holy Grail: Running Elden Ring on an RTX 5090 in Game Optimizer Mode yields a total click-to-photon latency of 28.7ms. This is remarkably low: it means that playing at a capped 117 FPS with Frame Gen active on this setup produces less input delay than playing a native, raw 60 FPS console game.

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LG G6 Sustained HDR Brightness Windows
According to testing metrics from RTINGS and industry calibration standards, the sustained luminance values for the LG G6 under Filmmaker / accurate HDR modes are approximately as follows: [1]

• 10% Window: ~2,300 to 2,500 nits
• 25% Window: ~1,300 nits
• 50% Window: ~750 to 800 nits
• 75% Window: ~600 nits
• 100% Window (Full Screen): ~499 nits [1, 2, 3]

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HUD Dimming Behavior: ABL, Logo Dimming, and AI/DTM Over-Brightening
The interplay between protective dimming algorithms and AI processing can cause highly contrasting behavior depending on your active picture mode and settings:

1. Normal Dimming Behavior (Game Optimizer / Accurate Modes)
In HDR Game Optimizer Mode, the LG G6 accurately tracks the PQ EOTF reference standard. [1]

• ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter): If a HUD (Heads-Up Display) is paired with a bright overall scene, ABL will proportionally drop the brightness of the entire image to preserve heat/power thresholds without crushing detail. [1]
• Logo Dimming (GSR/TPC): If a HUD remains static for a prolonged period, LG’s algorithm identifies it as fixed content. It will selectively dim that region (or the entire panel if static) to prevent image retention. In accurate modes, HUDs will normally dim down, mitigating burn-in risk. [1]

2. The "Dangerously Bright" Scenario (DTM + AI Load Balancing)
There is a notable exception where HUDs can become excessively bright. If you play games outside of Game Optimizer mode, or if you intentionally configure Dynamic Tone Mapping (DTM) to "On" combined with Expression Enhancer set to "Brightness", the processing behavior changes completely: [1]

• AI Load Balancing Over-Brightening: The Alpha 11 processor features aggressive ambient and scene-based luminance boosting. Early firmware and highly processed profiles tend to significantly overtrack the PQ standard, deliberately pumping more light output into mid-tones and highlights than intended. [1, 2]
• The DTM Effect: When DTM is turned on, the TV dynamically adjustment static frame mappings. It sees a white HUD element as a high-frequency specular highlight and aggressively drives the tandem layers to boost it. [1]
• The Risk: Instead of keeping the HUD at a safe, un-intrusive level, the TV's processing can blast it with up to 1,300 to 2,500 nits if the surrounding content allows the power headroom. Users on communities like r/LGOLED have noted that this combination makes elements like HUD text, reticles, or bright white white-balance configurations artificially and uncomfortably harsh to look at. [1, 2, 3]

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Feature / Metric	FMM + Pro Sliders 100 (DTM Off)	DTM On + Dynamic Brightness Boost
Normal HUD Nit Output	~150 to 200 nits (Kept low, safe, and comfortable due to accurate tracking)	Persistent 1,500 to 2,500 lifted HUDs of ??? nits (AI artificially forces the HUD to peak panel limits)
Time Before Dimming Starts	60 to 90 seconds (applies to HUD only if broken HDR in this configuration) (Standard static temporal limits apply normally)	2 to 3 minutes or Never (AI frame shifts constantly glitch and bypass the logo detector)
Subpixel Voltage & Thermal Load	Minimal / Low (Pixels run cool because reference white demands very little power)	Extreme / Constant (Tandem layers run hot, drawing maximum current to sustain peak output)
Primary Burn-In Threat	Negligible (Only a risk in games with broken HDR mastering that forces a 2,500-nit HUD)	Severe Cumulative Degradation (Static health bars, reticles, and text wear down pixels at an accelerated rate)
Overall Burn-In Risk Profile	Very Low (The safest way to play games while maintaining high-impact environmental highlights)	Critical / High Risk (Bypassing GSR safety nets while driving 2,000+ nits creates a perfect storm for uneven pixel wear)

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MistaSparkul said:

Hmm thinking about it some more, we know that OLED burn in has not improved at all on the TV side of things and that every generational improvement went towards boosting brightness instead. My cousin burned in his CX by playing FFXIV with RTX HDR on for a couple hundred hours. We know that RTX HDR treats HUD elements like highlights and just pumps max brightness into them, so if the CX has a peak brightness of about 600-700 nits for real scene highlights and that took a few hundred hours to cause HUD burn in, then yeah it is entirely plausible that increasing that brightness up to 2500 nits along with just straight up overheating the entire panel like crazy from DTM would now accelerate that HUD burn in rate down to just 18 hours. Was that guy using his TV outside or something? Because DTM on a G6 would be insanely bright I once fired up Active Tone Mapping on my Samsung S95F just for shits and giggles and that thing lit up my room as if it was mid day.

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