Keep on tripping 15A Breaker. Please help..

D

davidm71

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Feb 11, 2004
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Hi,

Was tripping the breaker every now and then while encoding video or gaming on a 1200 watt psu and 5820K cpu. Is it safe to run extension cord to dry outlet where the breaker is rated at 50A?? At least for an hour at a time..

Thanks
 
Without additional information about what else is on the 15A circuit, it's difficult to figure out if you are near/over/under the max safety limit (85% of max load). Is this a 120 VAC circuit? You may have other electrical issues going on.
 
I think its 120 VAC circuit. The breaker box is a GE Powermark Gold breaker box. All I have running off the circuit is one UPS, modem, router, iphone charger, and a couple of lights.

Next room over is the living room which has a fair amount of AV equipment hooked up. Second bedroom next door has a wireless bridge router, and UPS, light bulb.

Tried running the extension cord and it seems to have solved the issue as long as I don't use that plug.

BTW: Tried removing the UPS but ultimately didn't do a thing. Think the breaker is junk.

Thanks
 
what country you in?
umm, if I remember right 1800w is the limit for 15A/120V. so yeah if you total everything up that is on that same breaker and it exceeds 1800w, poof it blows. next time it blows take note of everything that turns off, make a total. and running your tower on an extension is ok AS LONG as it is a low enough gauge(thick, high amp).
 
davidm71 said:
Hi,

Was tripping the breaker every now and then while encoding video or gaming on a 1200 watt psu and 5820K cpu. Is it safe to run extension cord to dry outlet where the breaker is rated at 50A?? At least for an hour at a time..

Thanks
Click to expand...

Don't coil that extension cord. Keep an eye on it all the time. Does it get warm?
If you can, get a power draw measurement device like a killawatt to see if there is no short circuit somewhere around your computer.
Check your light bulbs. Of all the things you listed, I've seen UPS (you ruled that out) and faulty lightbulbs (arcing) causing breaker trippin'.
 
You've got something else going on, and I would call an electrician if you can't figure it out. Popping a breaker like that if you don't have a lot of load on it (that you can tell) is a bad sign. I would be worried about an electrical fire if you're having issues like that.
 
I've had this happen before. If it's a bedroom and your house is new the breaker is an AFCI. You can replace the breaker with a different brand but it must still be an AFCI breaker to meet code. For some reason the breaker thinks the PSU is arcing and shuts the breaker.

You shouldn't be close to tripping the breaker. 15a*120v= 1800watts. I've run breakers at 1500 watts for months with no incident.
 
The real question is how many other devices are on the same circuit breaker. Not in the same room, the same breaker. Which generally covers more than a room or two.

OP- you may need to do some research on basics with home wiring. You seemed unsure if you were using 120vac. Based on that alone I'd guess you may not know the basics.
 
osrk said:
You shouldn't be close to tripping the breaker. 15a*120v= 1800watts. I've run breakers at 1500 watts for months with no incident.
Click to expand...

1800 watts is max load. 1530 watts is max safe load (1800*0.85) to allow some head room for inrush loads.
 
You guys are right I'm not sure about the specifics about the electrical coming in to my apartment. I live in the United States in Massachusetts in a fairly modern style complex. The place even has an elevator. Only thing is I'm not sure my landlord will spring for an electrician to come in and replace the breaker. The second to last time it tripped I remember the air conditioner was on and it was in the summer. I was playing some video game testing out two 980 Ti's in SLI and the breaker went after ten minutes and then immediately upon turning on the machine again. Didn't have a lot stuff on besides the usual. Then last week when it happened again I remember I had my second machine running in the spare second bedroom at the same time as my primary gaming rig both encoding video, and power went out in both rooms.

Anyhow got the extension cord hooked up to the dryer outlet and so far so good there. Only wish I could control the static electricity. Get zapped every time I touch something. Might have even damaged an usb 3.0 port yesterday plugging in the external drive I got a shock. Then the system kept on connecting and disconnecting the drive randomly. Other drives don't act that way on that port (I tested that port after) and the drive in question works fine on other ports and other computers for that matter.

What a week!

Thanks
 
You have an extension cord plugged into a dryer outlet? That's not safe at all, especially if it's the older 3-prong variety.

Also, 1200w load = 1500w from the wall (assuming 80% efficiency). Add in 75-150w per monitor, one or more 40-60w light bulbs, 20-100w speakers... it's gets easy to overload a 15a breaker.
 
ryan_975 said:
You have an extension cord plugged into a dryer outlet? That's not safe at all, especially if it's the older 3-prong variety.

Also, 1200w load = 1500w from the wall (assuming 80% efficiency). Add in 75-150w per monitor, one or more 40-60w light bulbs, 20-100w speakers... it's gets easy to overload a 15a breaker.
Click to expand...

I guess but the dryer plug looks like a standard 3 prong plug. Rated at 50A.
 
He's referring to an older 230 VAC three prong appliance plug. Nowadays, NEC dictates a four prong for dryers and other appliances with heavy power draw.

David, you might want to map out what outlets are on that breaker. If you don't have an outlet tester on hand, use a small desk lamp. Kill the breaker that is tripping, leave the other breakers on, and plug in the lamp in the wall outlets. The outlets associated with the breaker that is off are the outlets sharing that circuit. Then inventory everything that was plugged in on that circuit and guesstimate the total power draw.
 
davidm71 said:
Then last week when it happened again I remember I had my second machine running in the spare second bedroom at the same time as my primary gaming rig both encoding video, and power went out in both rooms.
Click to expand...
Power went out in both rooms?
When you went to the breaker box, did you only have to flip 1 breaker to get both rooms back on?

If so, you might have your answer...you will need to tally up everything in both rooms.
 
EvilWays said:
He's referring to an older 230 VAC three prong appliance plug. Nowadays, NEC dictates a four prong for dryers and other appliances with heavy power draw.
.
Click to expand...
That's what I thought he meant until he said "standard", whichI took to mean was a NEMA 5-15R. Dryers typically use a NEMA 14-30R or the older NEMA 10-30R (which are 30amp and won't fit a 50 amp plug).

If it's a "standard" 120v-15a outlet on a 50a circuit (or worse, wired for 240v and using neutral for grounding), then he needs to get the landlord to fix that before someone burns down the building.

If it's a proper 240/120v-50a outlet, using an extension cord is potentially dangerous if it's not designed to handle 50a of current, or if it's a "custom" cord that lets you plug "standard" 120v devices into a 240/120v outlet (especially if it's wired to both hots).
 
Well it's a Homedepot HDX orange colored 16 amp rated cord. Looks just as thick as the power cord that runs into the psu. For few hours at a time playing a video game I doubt the pull from the psu could be that dangerous?

Thanks
 
pendragon1 said:
umm, if I remember right 1800w is the limit for 15A/120V. so yeah if you total everything up that is on that same breaker and it exceeds 1800w, poof it blows. next time it blows take note of everything that turns off, make a total. and running your tower on an extension is ok AS LONG as it is a low enough gauge(thick, high amp).
Click to expand...
if it is only as thick as the psu cord, that is probably not thick enough(lower gauge). you could run a risk of the cord overheating and starting a fire. the cord has to be rated for a minimum of 20A
 
pendragon1 said:
if it is only as thick as the psu cord, that is probably not thick enough(lower gauge). you could run a risk of the cord overheating and starting a fire. the cord has to be rated for a minimum of 20A
Click to expand...

If he's plugging into a 50a outlet, it needs to be a minimum rating of 50amps.

And yes it's still dangerous. Until you can verify that the outlet you're using is properly wired and protected, you may be plugging a cord designed for 120v applications into a 240v supply. Most modern PC power supplies are rated for 100-250v, so they can handle it, However, if something were to short out, up to 50a could be forced through a 15-20a cord, outlet, and possibly even the interior wiring. Bad things will happen then.
 
Honestly, I had a similar issue with the house I am currently living, but it turned out to be an easy fix. For me/us it was another device on the circuit that was pulling way more than we expected. We had two complete PC gaming systems with dual monitors, cable modem, router, etc on this circuit and if we left on the TV and started gaming, the breaker would trip. Well we initially thought it was just too loaded, but it turned out to be the cable tuner box and the powered subwoofer that, even when idle, were pulling silly amounts of power all the time. After I worked this out with the kill-a-watt, I removed the two offending devices from the power strip and all was fine. I can even run a damn electric heather on the circuit now if I wanted to, but generally don't need it. Anyway, get a kill-a-watt and start snooping....
 
ryan_975 said:
If he's plugging into a 50a outlet, it needs to be a minimum rating of 50amps.

And yes it's still dangerous. Until you can verify that the outlet you're using is properly wired and protected, you may be plugging a cord designed for 120v applications into a 240v supply. Most modern PC power supplies are rated for 100-250v, so they can handle it, However, if something were to short out, up to 50a could be forced through a 15-20a cord, outlet, and possibly even the interior wiring. Bad things will happen then.
Click to expand...
I was just going by what the system is drawing. yes if there were some strange catastrophic failure it could potentially surge the full 50a. and I'm still not sure how he is plugging in a regular 3 prong extension cord into a massive dryer socket. maybe he has it in the washer socket, mine is a 20a 3 prong...
 
davidm71 said:
You guys are right I'm not sure about the specifics about the electrical coming in to my apartment. I live in the United States in Massachusetts in a fairly modern style complex. The place even has an elevator.
Click to expand...
An elevator doesn't mean your place has modern electrical wiring.

"Then last week when it happened again I remember I had my second machine running in the spare second bedroom at the same time as my primary gaming rig both encoding video, and power went out in both rooms."
Certainly sounds like you're overloading the circuit (what kind of landlord wouldn't cheap out on breakers).

"Anyhow got the extension cord hooked up to the dryer outlet and so far so good there. Only wish I could control the static electricity. Get zapped every time I touch something. Might have even damaged an usb 3.0 port yesterday plugging in the external drive I got a shock. Then the system kept on connecting and disconnecting the drive randomly. Other drives don't act that way on that port (I tested that port after) and the drive in question works fine on other ports and other computers for that matter."
That doesn't sound too healthy for your computer, and possibly you. I don't suppose you have a tester to see if the outlet is grounded?


I am also curious about the adapter/extension cord you're using, does your dryer plug look like this or this?
 
Need pictures of the "dryer" outlet you're using.

Also need to know all the devices that are on the breaker. Shut down your PCs, throw the breaker off, test every outlet in your home with a lamp, and check every appliance to see if it's powered (fridge, etc).

Report back here with list of everything that is on that circuit.
 
Hi,

This is what the dryer plug looks like:
IMG_2175.JPG


And I was wrong about the Amp rating. Its rated at 30 Amps according to the map in the breaker box legend.
Also since I believe that was tripping the 15 amp breaker was high peaks of voltage and not necessarily sustained
draw of amps so I should be ok with a 16 amp rated extension cord for light use while gaming right?

Considering if my system pulls max 800 watts while gaming using two gpus that would be like 6.6 amps
and even less if I'm just using the cpu to compress videos?

Heres what the breaker box looks like:

IMG_2176.JPG
 
davidm71 said:
Hi,

This is what the dryer plug looks like:
IMG_2175.JPG


And I was wrong about the Amp rating. Its rated at 30 Amps according to the map in the breaker box legend.
Also since I believe that was tripping the 15 amp breaker was high peaks of voltage and not necessarily sustained
draw of amps so I should be ok with a 16 amp rated extension cord for light use while gaming right?

Considering if my system pulls max 800 watts while gaming using two gpus that would be like 6.6 amps
and even less if I'm just using the cpu to compress videos?

Heres what the breaker box looks like:

IMG_2176.JPG
Click to expand...

That's not a dryer receptical. It's a 20-Amp outlet (typically intended for high-amperage appliances such as a window air conditioner, or in a garage, large air compressors or other power tools.)
 
Well according to breaker legend its 30 amp and thats how it was when I started renting the place.

Better than 15 amps in my opinion.

Thanks
 
The good news is that 20-amp outlets are usually dedicated, meaning there are no other outlets, lights, etc. on the same circuit. You can safely use this outlet but if you do, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick up a heavy gauge extension cord. A single cord long enough for the task, not multiple short ones. Make sure it's rated for 20+ amps.
 
davidm71 said:
Well according to breaker legend its 30 amp and thats how it was when I started renting the place.

Better than 15 amps in my opinion.

Thanks
Click to expand...
The breaker may be 30amps but the receptical is definitely a 20amp part.
 
Yeah but I doubt my machine will pull a full 20 amps.

Edit the extension cord was rated at 13 Amps Max 1625 Watts.

A single gaming pc shouldnt exceed 1625 watts right?


17449b02-7c8c-429c-8216-6adba23f814a_1000.jpg
 
davidm71 said:
Hi,

This is what the dryer plug looks like:
<img removed>
Click to expand...

Like was mentioned above, that's a 120v-20a outlet. It will not be usable by most electric dryers. Gas dryers and maybe a "space saver" dryer. Are you sure that's not for the washer instead?

And I was wrong about the Amp rating. Its rated at 30 Amps according to the map in the breaker box legend.
Click to expand...

I see no single pole 30a breakers in your load center. So, I don't believe that outlet is wired to the breaker you think it is, or it's wired to one side of one the two-pole 30a breakers (which is still not up to code and potentially unsafe).

Also since I believe that was tripping the 15 amp breaker was high peaks of voltage and not necessarily sustained
draw of amps so I should be ok with a 16 amp rated extension cord for light use while gaming right?
Click to expand...
high peaks of voltage come from the power grid and are generally not going to trip a breaker (but will fry electronics). So assuming you have a clean supply of electricity and there there were no storms around, the voltage will stay constant regardless of how many things you plug in (that's not entirely correct, but let's go with it). So it was TOTAL amp draw from ALL the devices plugged into that branch that flipped your breaker.
Considering if my system pulls max 800 watts while gaming using two gpus that would be like 6.6 amps
and even less if I'm just using the cpu to compress videos?

Heres what the breaker box looks like:
<image snipped>
Click to expand...

No, it's not okay. Will anything happen? Not likely, but the breaker's only job is to protect the wiring connected to it. To do that it has to be rated lower the amperage than wiring can safely handle. A 20a breaker cannot protect a 16a extension cord.
 
I'm sure its the dryer that was plugged into that outlet. The plug for the washer is twice as big and much different in stlye. You guys notice that the wiring in regards to the breaker isn't correct?

I get it was probably the total amp draw from two computers and a couple modem routers plus a few lights that tripped it, but the peaks I was referring to was random sways of the psu pulling power. It never stays at a constant level. Has highs and lows.

Attached a couple more photos.

Thanks

Not sure why they're horizontal.




Photo%20Dec%2021%2C%207%2020%2037%20PM.jpg
Photo%20Dec%2021%2C%207%2020%2049%20PM.jpg
 
davidm71 said:
I'm sure its the dryer that was plugged into that outlet. The plug for the washer is twice as big and much different in stlye. You guys notice that the wiring in regards to the breaker isn't correct?

I get it was probably the total amp draw from two computers and a couple modem routers plus a few lights that tripped it, but the peaks I was referring to was random sways of the psu pulling power. It never stays at a constant level. Has highs and lows.

Attached a couple more photos.

Thanks

Not sure why they're horizontal.
Click to expand...

The 20a single pole breaker labeled Washing Machine (12) matches what the outlet you showed us should be wired to. The 30a double pole breakers (two breakers connected with a bar) labeled Dryer (5, 7) should be wired to an outlet that looks like one of these:
outletsdryer-1-846x677.jpg
 
I guess I'll have to switch the breakers off to test where they're going. Probably mislabeled as the electrician probably couldn't even spell. 'WashingMachine' is labeled 'WashingtonMachine'!

Maybe he was trying to make a political statement...

Hmmm...

Thanks
 
davidm71 said:
I guess I'll have to switch the breakers off to test where they're going. Probably mislabeled as the electrician probably couldn't even spell. 'WashingMachine' is labeled 'WashingtonMachine'!

Maybe he was trying to make a political statement...

Hmmm...

Thanks
Click to expand...
haha, I didn't' even notice.
 
BTW I wouldn't go with 14A and 16A "ratings" or whatever they are, if it's a 15A breaker get a cord with 14 AWG wire (for 20A get 12AWG). Those are the gauges of wires used in the walls to string the lines.
 
thank god it's not a washingtonDCmachine.

then nothing would never get done....:ROFLMAO:

ah thank you.

:D

what's up with number 13? smokes?
 
smoke alarms

Edit: Hmm I just took a closer look at those breaker images; it says bdrm 2 / 3 each have separate breakers (22/24), but the box only has the one in 22.
Maybe the electricians were cheaping out trying to save some cash? Though around here I believe you can have up to 12 outlets per breaker.
 
Last edited:
NeedleArtist said:
The good news is that 20-amp outlets are usually dedicated, meaning there are no other outlets, lights, etc. on the same circuit. You can safely use this outlet but if you do, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and pick up a heavy gauge extension cord. A single cord long enough for the task, not multiple short ones. Make sure it's rated for 20+ amps.
Click to expand...
I was looking at 20+A extension cords and they all had the male and female ends like this " - | " so you couldn't use normal 15A plugs on them.

Edit, guess it was certain ones, as I found some on Amazon that can accept both types at the female end.
 
Last edited:
ryan_975 said:
Like was mentioned above, that's a 120v-20a outlet. It will not be usable by most electric dryers. Gas dryers and maybe a "space saver" dryer. Are you sure that's not for the washer instead?
Click to expand...
that is deff a washer outlet. but you are wrong. anything 120v can plug into it just fine and it will work just fine. the socket is simply able to support up to 20 amps. trust me, ive installed dozens of them into every big orange hardware store in my province even though they didn't really need them(according to the journeyman electrician working with me). everything connected was standard 15a three prong but they requested 20a. still working great years later!

ryan_975 said:
The 20a single pole breaker labeled Washing Machine (12) matches what the outlet you showed us should be wired to
Click to expand...
like I said, washer outlet. soon as he said he used a normal extension cord. It would take someone reeaaal special to jam one into the dryer sockets!

Zepher said:
as I found some on Amazon that can accept both types
Click to expand...
skip amazon and run to your local. shit Walmart even. and yeah that cord is fine and you pc load is well below it rating. get one that is appropriate length as you don't want a bunch coiled up.
 
I made a total error as to what is hooked up where. Its the Washing Machine plug that is on that 20 amp socket that im using and thus the dryer is on the 30 amp bi-pole. Also both rooms share the single 15 amp breaker and the 'second bedroom' is actually the bathroom.
 
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