RMA'ed Gigabyte Mobo, they found Nothing Wrong?

fx9

[H]ard|Gawd
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Apr 2, 2008
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Last week, I RMA'ed my Gigabyte Z77X-D3H motherboard back to Gigabyte. There was a problem with the onboard Sata3 controller. Seems the Sata2 controller as well as the 2 onboard Marvel Sata3 ports were functioning properly. Everytime I try to use the onboard Sata3 controller (the white Sata3 ports) Windows gives me errors and loses connection to the drives, then blue screens. If you try to install windows 7 or 8 from a fresh hard drive (or SSD drive with updated firmware) you get an error when it tries to contact the hard drive.

Fast forward to today, I got word on the Gigabyte RMA site:

RMA Status: No trouble found after tests with multiple configurations :confused:

I'm going to be a very disappointed customer if they send the same motherboard back to me with the same bad onboard Sata3 controller. If so, they would have lost a good customer since I have bought many Gigabyte motherboards in the past. Seems lately their QC'ing has been down the drain. :mad:

Has anyone had this problem with them?
 
You should call them and explain the situation may be they didn't read your message correctly.
 
If I'm reading your post right you are trying to do a fresh install of windows 7 or 8 to your "C" drive on an SATA II port from another hard drive (with a copy of windows on it) on an SATA III port?

Or, are you trying to transfer an existing install using the same method?

I'm just trying to be clear on what you wrote.
 
If I'm reading your post right you are trying to do a fresh install of windows 7 or 8 to your "C" drive on an SATA II port from another hard drive (with a copy of windows on it) on an SATA III port?

Or, are you trying to transfer an existing install using the same method?

I'm just trying to be clear on what you wrote.

First I've tried a fresh install of windows 7 and windows 8 with a Samsung 830 SSD with updated firmware. Windows couldn't be installed, it gave an error msg. I've looked up this msg and people say its because of a dirty disc. That is quite impossible as I'm using a flash drive.

Then next I tried it with a regular Sata2 hdd. Still failed, same message along with 2 other Sata2 drives.

Next I unplugged the sata3 port cable and plugged the Sata2 drive to a Sata 2 port. It seems to install windows fine.

Okay, So After windows was done installing, I plugged the Sata2 drive back to the Sata3 port on the motherboard. Booted back up, instantly windows would have major error messages in the windows logs about losing connection to the drive, so trying it again. After a couple minutes of sluggish performance, it would blue screen and reboot itself.

Plugging the drive back to Sata2 port would solve all the problems, and windows doesn't have any issues with this.
 
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Ok, well, that's probably not the way I'd do it...

Couple of things. Is ACHI enabled on the motherboard?

Are the ACHI drivers installed on the drive where you installed windows?

Are the Marvel drivers installed on the drive where you installed windows?

Why are you installing from a hard drive or SSD?

Do you have a fresh download of either version of windows that you can burn to a DVD or USB drive (that's the only way I'd do an install)

I'd burn a new DVD or USB install drive and to my install with only the "C" drive plugged in. After that I'd install the chipset and the rest of the board drivers. If you aren't running raid I wouldn't bother with the Marvel drivers but ACHI drivers (at least on the win 7 install) will install automatically.

Once you have a good copy of Windows installed add each drive one at a time (disconnect the optical drive before trying to install a "D" or "E" etc. drive).

Important, after you have a good install shut the computer down before plugging in the "D" drive and restart and allow Windows to "see" it. Do that for each drive and make your optical drive the last one you plug in

After you get your "D" drive installed go to drive management and make sure it says "D" drive, if not now is the time to change that. Do that with each drive you install.

Just my quick thoughts on your issue. I'm really doubting you have a bad board...Oh, do your install with the network cable disconnected during all this, do your updates after you get everything running.:)
 
Oh I do have AHCI enabled, also since I'm not even using the Marvel controller to install windows I shouldn't need the drivers beforehand. I am using the onboard Z77 sata3 controller.

I have tried both a DVD and a flash drive with no avail.

I shouldn't need Sata3 drivers to install windows from the Z77 onboard controller right (not using the marvel Sata3 controller)? Or am I missing something?
 
Could It possibly be a bad Sata cable? I have not checked that though, the thought didn't cross my mind until now.
 
Oh I do have AHCI enabled, also since I'm not even using the Marvel controller to install windows I shouldn't need the drivers beforehand. I am using the onboard Z77 sata3 controller.

I have tried both a DVD and a flash drive with no avail.

I shouldn't need Sata3 drivers to install windows from the Z77 onboard controller right (not using the marvel Sata3 controller)? Or am I missing something?

I think your missing it. The SATA3 drivers should be done after the install on your "C" drive. Usually when I run into a drive not being seen issue ACHI is turned on (or off) but the install has the drivers installed or vice versa. The end result is almost always a BSOD and the machine won't see the drives.

Another thought, when you do your install and get to the advanced settings delete the partition(s) on your install drive (actually there should be two partitions by default) delete them both and make new ones. With win7 the first one should be about 100 meg or so and the second one should be the balance of the disk.
 
@OP

I'm going to side with Gigabyte because you don't even tell us what the error message is. So, I hope you send it to them again, they send it right back because it seems like you haven't done your due diligence. Learn to check everything; cables, drives, install files, RAM, etc. It could be the motherboard but most of the time, it isn't. Been there myself.
 
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