computergeek485
2[H]4U
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- Jun 20, 2008
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looks good, congrats on making it to the front page of hardocp
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Project: Aluminum Water Cooling Case
- Thread starter Spotswood
- Start date
I got the nuts from mcmaster.com, part # 96439A250. (There's a different part # for thinner material). The key to using these is drilling the appropriately sized hole, which for me is a #13.
No rivets used anywhere, everything is bolted together.
omegatotal
Gawd
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2002
- Messages
- 672
liking this allot sub'd
Very cool.
Is there a reason you didn't use pop rivets to put the case together?
Stinky
Building a custom case like this requires many iterations of assembly and dis-assembly, so rivets just aren't practical, but more importantly rivets don't belong on an expensive custom case, period.
jojo69
[H]F Junkie
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- Sep 13, 2009
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EVERYBODY RUN!
ITS A MONSTER !!!
ITS A MONSTER !!!
Colonel_Panic
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
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- 328
Very nice build! The aluminum will look top notch.
I've been wondering about my future projects, and one of the issues is main dimensions. Where were you able to find proper actual dimensions for all of the different specs? (ie. 5.25" drive hole spacing, ATX mobo hole spacing and fans) Is there a database or library with this kind of information?
I've been wondering about my future projects, and one of the issues is main dimensions. Where were you able to find proper actual dimensions for all of the different specs? (ie. 5.25" drive hole spacing, ATX mobo hole spacing and fans) Is there a database or library with this kind of information?
The models in the Sketchup Components Collection are pretty good, but I wouldn't thrust them for a production run of cases.
Up until now the front of the case has been held on with masking tape, but its now time to attach it securely. I had originally planned on drilling through holes and bolting the front to the case, but there wasn't much room for my hands to hold onto a nut, so I increased the size of the through hole a bit and pressed-in some PEM nuts.
The front frame consists of 1x1 and 1/2x1 u-channels.
Button head bolts were used to attach the front to the case.
The front frame consists of 1x1 and 1/2x1 u-channels.
Button head bolts were used to attach the front to the case.
Question:
Why did you square the corners of the 5.25-inch drive bay rails? Is the router bit a different diameter? Is it purely aesthetics, or is there some other purpose? I think it would be much easier to let the router do the work for you! Just saying...
Note: I don't mean to offend you via this post, I'm just curious.
Love your work, keep it up!
Why did you square the corners of the 5.25-inch drive bay rails? Is the router bit a different diameter? Is it purely aesthetics, or is there some other purpose? I think it would be much easier to let the router do the work for you! Just saying...
Note: I don't mean to offend you via this post, I'm just curious.
Love your work, keep it up!
The 5.25-inch drive bay rails:
Question:
Why did you square the corners of the 5.25-inch drive bay rails? Is the router bit a different diameter? Is it purely aesthetics, or is there some other purpose? I think it would be much easier to let the router do the work for you! Just saying...
Note: I don't mean to offend you via this post, I'm just curious.
Love your work, keep it up!
I learned from a previous project that making these rails take a lot of time, so for this project I had a local fabricator make them for me.
The side panels were cut via the help of a large makeshift square made from a small square clamped to a ruler.
The radiator ventilation cutouts were made with the help of a router template. Some bits of scrap aluminum were bolted to the underside to eliminate any errors with placing the template accurately on the sheets.
Determining where to make the cutouts was easily done via a dab of India ink on the head of a screw and some masking tape. The panel was repeatedly pushed up against the inked bolt.
I'll round the corners later.
The radiator ventilation cutouts were made with the help of a router template. Some bits of scrap aluminum were bolted to the underside to eliminate any errors with placing the template accurately on the sheets.
Determining where to make the cutouts was easily done via a dab of India ink on the head of a screw and some masking tape. The panel was repeatedly pushed up against the inked bolt.
I'll round the corners later.
In order to accurately drill the bolt holes to attach the perforated aluminum to the side panels, I fabricated a drill template from some left over flat bar stock and a drill bushing I had lying around the shop.
A couple of spacers was used to quickly and accurately place the jig on the work piece (to avoid having to measure/layout the location of the holes).
Some .063 perforated aluminum cut to size:
To accurately cut the rounded corners on the side panels a router jig was fab'd from a piece of the corner round used on the body of the case, 1-inch u-channel and a couple of 1-2-3 block hot glued to some particle board. Two strips of Mylar from an old drum head was used to smooth out any irregularities.
Tah-dah!
A couple of spacers was used to quickly and accurately place the jig on the work piece (to avoid having to measure/layout the location of the holes).
Some .063 perforated aluminum cut to size:
To accurately cut the rounded corners on the side panels a router jig was fab'd from a piece of the corner round used on the body of the case, 1-inch u-channel and a couple of 1-2-3 block hot glued to some particle board. Two strips of Mylar from an old drum head was used to smooth out any irregularities.
Tah-dah!
Last edited:
omegatotal
Gawd
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- Mar 15, 2002
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- 672
i like it!
SpeedwayNative
n00b
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- Mar 4, 2011
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- 19
This case is already sick looking. Can't wait to see the finished product! Subbed
wra18th
[H]F Junkie
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- Nov 11, 2009
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Yeah, the time and material alone will put a big hurting in your pocket. Never mind the effort and craftsmanship. Spotswood makes it look easy but it's not.
Randominal
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
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- 239
I'm thinking of making a new aluminium front panel for my case much like yours. I'm most worried about getting the cuts straight and using a router as you have seems to be the way to go. Could you give more details on the router you used and the bits? Would a dremel with the router attachment and aluminium router bits do the job? Finally, did you have to spray coolant onto the bit whilst cutting?
I don't use anything fancy...1HP variable speed Craftsman router with either a pattern bit, "normal" endmill or a spiral down-force bit (pattern bit if you want to run the bit along a pattern; spiral bit if you guide the base of the router with a pattern). I run the router at a very slow speed.
I do apply some aluminum cutting fluid to the bits to help prevent the aluminum from sticking, but that wouldn't be a problem if I used 6061 (rather than 5052) aluminum.
Another requirement for this case is a hidden door latching mechanism.
Look Ma! No latches!
A length of .125x.75-inch flat bar was bolted to the bottom of the door to act as a lip that will hook into the u-channel along the bottom of the case, for example:
Along the top of the door, there is a piece of angle with three "hooks", which were routed out using a cobbled together router template.
A thick piece of flat bar was filed down to where it'll slide easily inside the u-channel along the top of the case. To that three "posts" were bolted to it. When slid forward, the posts will engage the hooks.
Look Ma! No latches!
A length of .125x.75-inch flat bar was bolted to the bottom of the door to act as a lip that will hook into the u-channel along the bottom of the case, for example:
Along the top of the door, there is a piece of angle with three "hooks", which were routed out using a cobbled together router template.
A thick piece of flat bar was filed down to where it'll slide easily inside the u-channel along the top of the case. To that three "posts" were bolted to it. When slid forward, the posts will engage the hooks.
nlancaster
Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 700
I am so stealing that design!!!
That is almost exactly how Lian-Li does it, and I have been trying to figure out a way to duplicate it.
+1 to spotswood, to go with the thousands of others he has or should have!!
That is almost exactly how Lian-Li does it, and I have been trying to figure out a way to duplicate it.
+1 to spotswood, to go with the thousands of others he has or should have!!
wra18th
[H]F Junkie
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- Nov 11, 2009
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Dude, you rock! That looks great!
I made a mistake, placing the false back too far into the case, which required having to re-fabricate the back sheet. But I figured I could take advantage of the situation by improving the mounting of the motherboard tray, by fastening the tray to the false back with a 7/8-inch long spacer.
I don't remember if I already offered this tip before, but I try to reduce the wear and tear on my 1/2-inch flush cutting router bit by first rough cutting with a 3/16-inch spiral downward cutting bit.
I don't remember if I already offered this tip before, but I try to reduce the wear and tear on my 1/2-inch flush cutting router bit by first rough cutting with a 3/16-inch spiral downward cutting bit.
A PSU mounting plate was routed out of a piece .10-inch thick aluminum sheet with the help of a custom template.
In order to accurately transfer the locations of the PSU mounting holes, threaded hole transfer punches (mcmaster.com part # 3385A31) were threaded into a PSU.
And then the PSU was carefully centered and pressed into the sheeting, with the end result being a perfect squarely mounted PSU.
In order to accurately transfer the locations of the PSU mounting holes, threaded hole transfer punches (mcmaster.com part # 3385A31) were threaded into a PSU.
And then the PSU was carefully centered and pressed into the sheeting, with the end result being a perfect squarely mounted PSU.
D
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I had no idea something like that existed. Very cool!
jojo69
[H]F Junkie
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dude...3 letters for you
C N C
C N C
Thanks for the heads up, but I'm not going be doing anymore custom builds for a while. Instead I will be focusing on some less labor intensive stuff.
jojo69
[H]F Junkie
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was not a criticism, your work is top notch, but you do enough of it to justify a 12-1500 $ Taig or Sherline setup...I mean, you are semi pro at this point
