About to buy some parts could use a critique..

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Coloredtoad

Weaksauce
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Jan 17, 2009
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Hi about to order some Liquid Cooling parts. Just looking to get the setup critiqued.:D

Corsair 800D
Core i7 2600k
Gigabyte Ga-P67a-UD7
G.Skill Ripjaws memory
Antec Highcurrent Pro 1200
XFX 6970

Here is the list of parts i'm looking into:
I plan on cooling the cpu and gpu to start might add more later.

Swiftech MCP655 12v Water Pump w/ Speed Control

Black Ice GTX Xtreme 360 Radiator

FrozenQ PC Mods 250mm Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation" Reservoir

EK Supreme HF Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block (Not sure which one there are a couple versions)
OR
Swiftech Apogee XT Extreme "Flagship" Performance CPU Waterblock

EK Radeon HD 6970 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal

I will most likely be goin 1/2 id 3/4 od everything with compression fittings.
Feser Coolant and Tygon tubing (there is 6-7 different types which would be the best?)

Thanks for any info :)
 
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I would go with regular distilled water, there's no need for coolant. Just add a silver killcoil in your reservoir or somewhere in your system.

Why do you need the 3/8 conversion kit if you're going 1/2 ID tubing?

I used Primochill Primoflex tubing because it was UV reactive and cheaper than tygon tubing, but that's personal preference. I haven't encountered any problems with my tubing yet.
 
Ohh the 3/8 conversion kit just comes with the pump. With the distilled water wouldn't you need to add a few things to it??:confused:
 
NOTE: I've been editing this post...

- Black Ice Extreme = Good radiator, but ONLY for high-static-pressure fans (above 1800 RPM). This is for louder, high-performance setups. This is because these radiators feature a high "FPI" (Fins per Inch), thus making it difficult to push air through them.

- Inexpensive radiator that nearly matches all else: Swiftech MCR series (sold at sidewinder, SVC, and elsewhere). It's THIN (meaning you can easily mount shrouds in push/pull).

- More expensive, slightly better radiators: XSPC RX series, HW-labs SR1, Thermochill TA series (older PA series uses G 3/8" thread = non-standard for PC-watercooling = requires different barbs).

- I don't understand the need for a 3/8" conversion kit. What is this? You'll be using 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD tubing, correct? Perhaps I'm missing something.

- Tygon B-44-4X if you want transparent tubing (does not leak plasticizer like the r3603)
- Tygon R3400 if you want Black (Tygon is sold at Sidewinder, not sure where else)
- Primoflex LRT 1/2" (ID) x 3/4" (OD) if you want something comparable (possibly BETTER) and cheaper

- EK supreme HF (Cu, Gold, Nickel) = best performance w/o restricting flow
- Swiftech XT = Nearly as good, best mounting system, lower flow-rate (won't matter if your GPU block restricts flow anyway)

- GPU block: decide full-cover vs universal GPU block + heatsinks. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=264768&page=2 - Here is a thread discussing the different universal GPU-blocks... I'd go for the highest flow one, but I haven't seen any flow-rate tests... I'm guessing that the EK HF outflows the MCW-80, but I can't be sure.

- Worm-drive clamps or these: http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-Black-Steel-Spring-Hose-Clamps-for-3-4in.OD-Tubing-pr-4762.html - if you want to maintain aesthetics
- Bitspower Fatboy (AKA dangerden Fatboy) barbs... available in black if you want them.

- Distilled water + silver kill-coils (Silver is a great additive to prevent growth of general crud) in reservoir and maybe a few drops of some biocide like PTnuke (Copper Sulfate - should also be sold locally). I don't recommend pre-mixed coolants...

- FrozenQ reservoir is fine if you like that. Swiftech MCresv2 is a no-nonsense solution that just works (fill + drain + input/output, inexpensive, mounts easily, compact).

- FANS: Scythe GT AP-15 (1850 RPM) + fan controller, or AP-14 (1450 RPM) w/o fan controllers... depends on your noise-tolerance, but even the AP-15 is somewhat quiet when using a shroud. If you go below 1100 RPM, then Scythe GT may be a waste of money... diminishing returns, and simple Yate Loon fans become competitive in the noise/performance metric.

- Corsair 800D is great. I use a 700D. It can accommodate a triple-rad up top (or QUAD rad if you do some cutting) and a single-rad at the back.

- Swiftech mcp655 (AKA Laing D5) is good, and slightly less noisy than the DDC 3.2. Laing DDC-series (3.1, 3.2, 3.25, etc) is also good... Swiftech brands the DDC 3.2 as the mcp355 = which outflows the mcp655 when used with an aftermarket pump-top (XSPC or EK = my choice is EK).

- You must be considering Crossfire in the future if you're getting that Antec HCP-1200!

- Note that the current HD 6950's have a high success-rate unlocking to full-fledged 6970's = one step closer to crossfire...

- Assemble and leak-test outside of case first, always.
 
Some misunderstanding on the pump the 3/8th conversion kit comes with the pump i listed and also the one with out speed control (so removed from original post)
 
I suggest no colored coolant. Go with colored tubes. Most coolants or additives gunk up or stain every part they touch.

Also there are some slick tubing out there.
 
I find that with distilled water and a silver killcoil, I don't really need to change anything. I've never let the system sit long enough though, the longest its gone without changing the water is about 4 months (I changed the water because I started swapping components). If you change the water every 6 months, you should be set with just a killcoil.

Otherwise, I agree with most of what Archmage said, although I kind of disagree with the pumps part. Get an aftermarket top for the MCP655, and you'll see improved flow rates and pressure with that too. Although I'm not sure how the improvements for the MCP655 compare with that of the 355.
 
Well I should clarify that a topped DDC-series will outflow a topped D5-series pump when restriction is moderate to high. But at flow-rates approaching 3-GPM (low-restriction), the D5-series will flow better. That won't really happen in any serial loop (only parallel loops can achieve such flow, and then only as measured through the pump = the point of convergence of the additive flow of both loops).

The D5 is a good pump, and some feel it's more reliable due to its size (greater thermal dissipation perhaps?), but the DDC-series is compact, and potentially very powerful (and moddable now with that aftermarket PCB which will effectively render all DDC's (assuming they use the same impeller, which may not be the case) virtually equivalent, and dependent only upon voltage control). I suppose that's important only to a modder.

Edit: And the primoflex LRT tubing comes in many colors, just for reference. I'd also suggest colored tubing as opposed to colored coolant, however I've never used anything but clear or black tubing - I like them the best.
 
Ok so i made some changes here is new list:

XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Radiator

Feser Aqua Non Conductive Ultra Pure Water - 1000ml (about how many bottles are needed for an avg size build?)

IandH Silver KillCoils

Swiftech MCP655

Koolance G1/4" Brass Inline Drain Valve

FrozenQ PC Mods 250mm Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation"

PrimoChill PrimoFlex PRO LRT Tubing 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with 1/8" Wall - UV Blue

EK Radeon HD 6970 VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel + Acetal (EK-FC6970-Nickel + Acetal)

Still deciding on the cpu block. The Ek supreme HF all copper or nickel look pretty nice. (doing shopping at frozencpu both of those are not for sale from them)

And still checking out fans.
 
What do you mean easier to deal with?? Less kinking? and with 3/8 ID whats the standard OD on it??
 
Don't bother with those pre-mix coolants or 'pure water'. Just goto the local drugstore / supermarket and pick up a 4L / 1Gal jug of distilled water for a couple of bucks.
 
Ok think i got my last question before placing my order :D The IandH Silver KillCoils how many would you use in a loop of just gpu and cpu?? Is it just 1 or add 2 or 3?. And how often do you need to add 1 or more?:D
 
1 is enough. It's just a piece of silver, you don't need to add any over the duration of the loop, it's not a consumable.
 
|-Goku-| said:
IMHO I would go with 3/8 ID vs 1/2 ID. I have used both, and 3/8 ID is so much easier to manage.
Click to expand...

+1 on this. You can acheive tighter bends witout kinking issues. Depending on the specific tube the OD will be ether 1/2" or 5/8" with the 1/2" being more common. Be sure to check the details before you buy since you are planning to run with compression fittings.

My other reconmondation would be to go with a pump top res. This will simplify cable and tube managment. XSPC and EK both make nice restops although I'd go with XSPC at the moment however as EK seems to be having some cracking issues with their restops. (Which I'm sure they will get resolved.. EK makes quality stuff)
 
Ok Last question (for now :p ) I am going to order the "XSPC RX360 Triple 120mm Radiator" What do you guys recommend for fans?? Would you go push/pull? or just 3 fans?? Archmage suggested the Scythe GT AP-15 with a fan controller. Any other suggestions ?? And do you mount them by simply screwing the fans right to the Rad? and then the Rad to the case? or do i have to buy some sort of shroud ? Thx again!!
 
GT AP-15 would give you the best performance/noise ratio. The GT's get audible at 1850 RPM, but that's what the fan controller is for. For best performance, you can go with push/pull, but it'll cost more (nearly $50 if you're using GT's to do push/pull vs just pull, less if you use cheaper fans).

The low FPI (fins per inch) means you can use some low-performance fans with the radiator, since its not very restrictive on airflow. If you had gone with a higher FPI radiator, than you would need higher performance fans, like the GT's. The GT's have very high static pressure, which is good for pushing air through thick radiators. Since this is not one of those radiators, it's not really necessary to use GT, any fan would do.

You don't need a shroud, shrouds are just recommended for better performance. Here, it's about costs and whether you actually have enough space for the fan + shroud + radiator. These can become very thick, and if you do push/pull with shrouds, the whole setup can become nearly a foot thick, depending on the thickness of your shroud, fans, and radiator. The RX360 is a fairly thick radiator. More than likely you won't have enough room to put shrouds. If you do, shrouds can easily be made out of dead fans, just gut the interior. You'll also need much longer screws.

What's recommended if you're only doing one set of fans is a pull setup. I assume you're going to attach the radiator to the top of the case with the fans blowing out the top, so here's what you'll do.
The screw will go through things in this order: top of case -> fan -> shroud (if you have it) -> radiator. Basically, you'll be sandwiching the fan between the top of the case and the radiator.

push < pull < pull w/ shroud < push/pull < push/pull w/ shroud
 
AHh great thanks Tsumi :) and in a push pull same set up but the screws would go thru the bottom fans aswell
 
The screws do not go all the way through the radiator, they screw into the radiator, and are generally just long enough to tighten the fan to the radiator. So you need 12 screws for a pull setup, 24 screws for a push/pull setup. However, you can probably get away with using just two screws on each fan.
 
Well finally got my new Mobo and Ram. So i was about to order all my Cooling parts and just wondering about reservoir size. Is there a size in ML thats better then another?? I was gonna go with the FrozenQ Liquid Fusion 250 ml Reservoir but the color i wanted was out of stock so was looking at the FrozenQ Liquid Fusion 160 ml Reservoir. So just wondering what the +/- is to the ML size. Thanks
 
And last thing was looking at EK-Supreme HF High Flow FULL COPPER - "FULL NICKEL" and for the fittings they offer it only shows 1/2 and 3/8 ID fittings. Can you add your own fittings to the EK? or advised to go pick them up with the order?
 
With a larger reservoir, it takes longer for your components to reach higher temps, since it has to warm up more water. Also, you can go longer between refills, which isn't really relevant, since you should be replacing the water at least once or twice a year anyways. Otherwise, there is no difference between a large or small reservoir. Use whatever suits your fancy.

You can use your own fittings, since they all use the G 1/4 thread besides a few older style radiators. I know on some blocks, the ports are too close to each other to use large compression fittings, not sure about that block though. It'll probably be fine.
 
Thanks for the info on the reservoir :) and figured i could use which ever fittings i wanted just wanted to be 100% certain :D
 
Well im ordering tomorrow (Finally!!!) just wanted any last minute opinions. All parts are from www.performance-pcs.com

*** HOT *** EK-Supreme HF High Flow - #1 CPU Water Block - FULL COPPER - "FULL NICKEL"
- Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube

*** NEW *** EK-FC6970 for AMD/ATI Radeon HD 6970 Series - Nickel/Acetal
- Fitting Size 1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID tube

XSPC RX360 Extreme Performance Radiator
- Nozzles No Nozzles

FrozenQ Liquid Fusion 250 ml Reservoir - UV Green (This is probably only item i might change)

*** NEW *** PrimoFlex Pro LRT UV Blue Tubing -3/8in. ID X 5/8in. OD

IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing / Reservoir Strip

*** HOT *** Performance-PCs Über 655 Fully Modded (D5) 12 VDC Water Pump - Matte Black

Ill be using all 3/8 ID 5/8OD fittings (not sure if i want compression or just barbs and what brand.

I will also be using distilled water. with the silver strip added in.
 
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