n00b lookin for quiet setups

nigely said:
i think i know why ppl think that Big tube = noisy
its because normally people with fat tube watercooling do not cool their chipset , mofet and harddisk because they think those things are flow killer, they will use fan to cool it instead of waterblock

for small tube setup, they will try to cool everything thats slightly hot in the computer like PSU, VGA RAM, Mofet, HDD
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PSU watercooling is extremely rare and difficult unless you spend the big bucks on a premodded WCing power supply, of which I know of maybe two.

VGA Ram watercooling is used quite often in large bore systems, the DD NV-68 block is a very good seller.

Mosfet watercooling is almost as rare as PSU watercooling, usually mosfets are not in a convenient place for watercooling (limited space). The only board I know of that would make mosfet cooling practical is the upcoming Sapphire Grouper enthusiast board. They have grouped the mosfets all together in an area that accomodates passive HS, active HS, and even a custom designed DD waterblock.

HDD is about the only thing in that list that I would say is more often cooled with small bore than large bore.
 
nigely said:
i think i know why ppl think that Big tube = noisy
its because normally people with fat tube watercooling do not cool their chipset , mofet and harddisk because they think those things are flow killer, they will use fan to cool it instead of waterblock

for small tube setup, they will try to cool everything thats slightly hot in the computer like PSU, VGA RAM, Mofet, HDD
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Come to think of it that is what everybody has been recommending to this guy. Except for the original system I recommended everyone keeps offering up a "high-flow" CPU H20 cooled and that's it. So how about we repost the original thread so everyone is on the same page:

RootOfEvil said:
n00b lookin for quiet setups:
after my previous thread narrowed down that ill be using either two loops or one loop and AC on the other, ive got some more questions:

The whole point of this WC setup is to get a quieter system, not to OC it. Right now the p4 and the amd64 both have stock fans. I havent replaced those with aftermarket solutions because the alphas i use are best with very noisy fans. Is the thermaltake kit any good? Noisy? Would it be sufficient to keep a p4/NB/gt6600 cooler than the stock HSF combo under load? Im looking for simple, quiet, and im willing to pay a bit for it.
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So what we are looking for is a simple and quiet system and money is a secondary consideration correct? You want to cool the P4 CPU, NB, and a 6600GT with water correct? And OC isn't even an issue correct? Okay so I will go first so all can have fun with my little post ;)

Aqua Computer setup:
Aquastream DC Pump w/version 2 controller (version 2 controller will allow you to OC pump to a bit shy of 1048 rates)
T-Line or other low cost reservoir of your choice
Cuplex Pro for CPU (good cooling standard 6mm ID tubing and allows upgrade path when you are ready for bigger tubes and pumps)
TwinPlex x 2 for NB and GPU (that's 2 TwinPlex's w 2chipset mounting screens) which gives you good cooling and these blocks can be used for just about any GPU or chipset made.
Airplex Evo 240 or Black Ice Pro rads (probably could get by on a single 120, but why not give yourself some headroom for future expandabilty :) If you don't want to cut the case you might be able to swing 2 separate 120mm radiators or as stated above one 120mm would probably do it.
Fan controller of choice
Use standard 6mm Plug & Cool tubing and connectors or 8mm compression fittings and tubing.

Total cost approximately: $ 400-450 Add about $100 if you want to run to two loops for extra pump and fittings. All the hardware comes from one manufacturer so if something goes wrong there won't be any pointing of fingers. Also as you have probably noticed there are plenty of people around this forum who know all the intimate details of an A-C system.

Now the other thought is for a Koolance system as it is really simple.

EXOS II
CPU-300-V/H10 water block
GPU-180-L06 NB chipset and VGA cooler (2 coolers)

Total cost approximately: $500
 
Erasmus354 said:
PSU watercooling is extremely rare and difficult unless you spend the big bucks on a premodded WCing power supply, of which I know of maybe two.
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Not so with European systems where it is getting more and more common. Even Fortron now makes a water cooled PSU for the European market. :) Anything from Europe is just about a week or two at the most away. However, I don't think they are typically setup to use anything bigger than about 10mm tubing. I know of several water cooled PSU's.

Mosfet watercooling is almost as rare as PSU watercooling, usually mosfets are not in a convenient place for watercooling (limited space).
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I agree, but the A8N-SLI board is easily converted to water cooled Mosfets as well. Actually it is not to bad an idea from a performance standpoint, but for a simple non-OC setup it is a waste of time.

HDD is about the only thing in that list that I would say is more often cooled with small bore than large bore.
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I don't think there any coolers available larger than about 8mm ID for HDD cooling. However, you could put a couple of drives in parallel if you wanted to use them with a big bore tube. :)
 
Hard drive do not need water-cooling. If you are really concerned about it, a Zalman passive heatpipe cooler does the job excellently (I use them on some of my hotter drives), and only cost $20 or so.

I've always used the Zalman copper-colored passive heatsinks on my chipsets. They get vaguely warm to the touch.

The are plenty of GPU waterblocks that suit open-flow systems, with the DangerDen Maze 4, or the Silverprop Fusion HL being the more popular. If you wanted to cool the GPU ram as well either go with the DangerDen NV68 block, or used the passive Zalman heatsinks (what I use) which do the job well even on modern cards.

Hmmm - what does that leave? The mosfets - again - use the zalman passive sinks on each mosfet, and heatspreaders on the ram.

Buy an Antec Phantom PSU(fanless) if you want really silent.

Doesn't get more silent than passive. For things like disk drives, mosfets, memory, and chipsets these things simply don't generate enough heat to warrant water-cooling. The only possible exception there is the chipset for certain particular mobos, but again, there are any number of open-flow compatible chipset waterblocks on the market.
 
I plan on using notebook 2.5 drives in this buildup, I figure why find ways to move heat around when I can just avoid it all together. The notebook drives only use several watts...I think they only use the 5V power, plus they are super quite. Performance doesn't take a big hit either (if you study up on what 2.5" are good).

Like I said I plan on using the Zalman Reserator1, the Zalman VGA cooler, an additional radiator in the case, and various fittings/tubing. It will probably be around $300 total. And the Lian-Li PC-V1000 or V1200 case. This should be a close to silent system.

I will probably replace the Lian-Li stock 120mm fans with ones that can run down to 5V (I'll have to see if the stock ones can), and probably just the fan in a Seasonic S12-330 PSU.
 
The Tt kit *might* be able to do what you want to do, but keep in mind that most people who buy those end up selling them in less than a week and have to order at least a decent kit again.
 
Cathar said:
Hard drive do not need water-cooling. If you are really concerned about it, a Zalman passive heatpipe cooler does the job excellently (I use them on some of my hotter drives), and only cost $20 or so.
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You must be talking in AUS dollars as they go for about 25-35 USD here ;) If your buying with USD (worthless money) and you already happen to have a water cooled system that is easily modifiable to run an H20 cooled HD then why not? Especially considering that you can eliminate the fan that you were using to cool it and get quieter. The biggest problem I see with the Zalman HD cooler is that it will only work in a 5.25" slot. I have other plans for my 5.25" slots like an AquaBay, Aquaero, Flash drive, and a couple of optical drives. The HD coolers here run about $50 so this seems like a no brainer to me. Now if you run a big bore system I do admit it might get a bit cramped running all these tubes all over the place, but that is one of the advantages of using a smaller tube size. However, after reading some of your posts I may convert my system over to an 8mm ID as that is pretty easy and doesn't congest my case up to badly. :D

If you want a simple setup obviously you probably wouldn't want to go to this type of system, but I think mosfet cooling is a good idea if you are planning on raising the voltage to your CPU or are planning on doing some hardware voltage mods. It's just a guess but the cooler those mosfets run the more stable your voltage will be going to your CPU. I personally would rather just cut up an old 386 heatsink and epoxy them on my mosfets, but again if you already have the water cooling and the tube size is in the lower flow range, why not?
 
Top Nurse said:
The Tt kit *might* be able to do what you want to do, but keep in mind that most people who buy those end up selling them in less than a week and have to order at least a decent kit again.
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Who were you referring to? I'm a noob, not sure what "Tt" is short for :D
 
Top Nurse said:
If your buying with USD (worthless money) and you already happen to have a water cooled system that is easily modifiable to run an H20 cooled HD then why not?
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Why not?

Why dump extra heat into the water-cooling loop, and add extra restriction, when it's not necessary? Why route extra tubing everywhere when it's not necessary?

Why not just have a passive cooler there is perhaps the real question? Why spend more money than is needed, to route tubes where they are not required, to add extra heat to the loop that doesn't have to be there, to reduce the effective cooling performance of the CPU + GPU which are the real heat producers?

Sorry - can't have it both ways. Can't say that the joy of smaller tubing is easier routing, and then propose to have the whole case insides filled with tubing going everywhere when it doesn't have to, and pay more money than you have to, to get the job done.
 
I don't see it as an issue of dumping heat into the water or particulary care about added restriction as the system I'm using doesn't seem to have a problem with it. Maybe yours does and if that is so I can see why you wouldn't want to do it. Not that I plan on running tubing all over the place and if I do it will look nice and clean because I don't have to run gigantic tubing around to get the job done. :)

I think you are asking the age old question of "WHY." Why climb a mountain, why go to the Moon or Mars, why drive a car at the speed of sound, why fly a plane around the world non-stop? The answer is really quite simple, because I can, I want to do it, and why not? Doesn't matter to me that no one else wants to do it though in this case lots of people want to do it. ;) And of course the bottom line is that it does make for a more quieter computer. :D
 
Top Nurse said:
And of course the bottom line is that it does make for a more quieter computer. :D
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More quiet than the passive solution I'm proposing? Oh - do tell - this is gonna be good.

I think you miss the point. Why do it when it serves no purpose and provides no gain than doing it in a just-as-effective, cheaper, quieter, and less cluttered fashion?

As for "noticing" the effects of extra resistance, sure. Let me know when you hit 5GHz on water with a P4, or 3GHz on water with a Socket A AMD, or 3.2GHz with an XP64, all with room temperature based water-cooling. When you're matching the same overclocks and in relative quiet (quieter than stock air), then we'll talk about whether or not all those extra unnecessary cooling of equipment is having an impact or not.


Top Nurse said:
The answer is really quite simple, because I can, I want to do it, and why not?
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Hate to break it to you, this thread is not about you and what you want, it is about the opening poster and what he would like.
 
Cathar said:
More quiet than the passive solution I'm proposing? Oh - do tell - this is gonna be good.
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You are missing the point here. If you already have a fan exhausting air through a radiator what difference does it make whether you add a little more heat to the water and exhaust it out that way. If you use your example then you are simply moving the heat from the chipset or hard drives to the air inside the case. My way moves it all out of the case and since you already have the fan going for the radiator and it is not being OC who cares?

The original poster said:

RootOfEvil said:
n00b lookin for quiet setups
after my previous thread narrowed down that ill be using either two loops or one loop and AC on the other, ive got some more questions:

The whole point of this WC setup is to get a quieter system, not to OC it. Right now the p4 and the amd64 both have stock fans. I havent replaced those with aftermarket solutions because the alphas i use are best with very noisy fans. Is the thermaltake kit any good? Noisy? Would it be sufficient to keep a p4/NB/gt6600 cooler than the stock HSF combo under load? Im looking for simple, quiet, and im willing to pay a bit for it. The amd64 setup doesnt need a whole lot, so aircooling or cheap WC will probably work, any quiet recommendations?
Click to expand...

Cathar said:
I think you miss the point. Why do it when it serves no purpose and provides no gain than doing it in a just-as-effective, cheaper, quieter, and less cluttered fashion?
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It's only cluttered with a big bore solution not a small bore solution. However, I might concede that a passive chipset cooler would be ok depending on the board of course as some board's chipsets get extremely hot.

As for the rest I guess that depends entirely on whether he wants to give up his 5 1/4 slots to put hard drives in them when they can easily go where they are supposed to. Like in 3.5 slots. But even if he were willing to give up the 5.25 slots then there is even a better solution that makes those drives even quieter and cools them at the same time! Put them in an enclosed hard drive case (made by Aqua Computer, AlphaCool, and WaterCool among others. I would also like to mention that the equipment I'm proposing doesn't appear to have any problems cooling hard drives, chipsets, PSU's, VGA cards, and even mosfet's!

Cathar said:
As for "noticing" the effects of extra resistance, sure. Let me know when you hit 5GHz on water with a P4, or 3GHz on water with a Socket A AMD, or 3.2GHz with an XP64, all with room temperature based water-cooling. When you're matching the same overclocks and in relative quiet (quieter than stock air), then we'll talk about whether or not all those extra unnecessary cooling of equipment is having an impact or not.

Hate to break it to you, this thread is not about you and what you want, it is about the opening poster and what he would like.
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Well after sprouting that last little bit about OC to hell then I would hope you would have had the sense to not even bring that subject up. ;) However, since you did I would like to point out that your concern is not for the average Joe computer user, but your slant is as one of the ballz out water cooler's that I liken to the Top Fuel Funny Car crowd. Who cares whether this would be a problem when running 5 Ghz on a P4 or 3.2 Ghz on an XP64? It's not a problem within the parameters set by the original poster as you have so eloquently put it. :D

Even though I am talking of using more coolers than you are I still think it will go faster together with less problems than your solution. With push-fits all you do is cut the tubing and push it in. No hassles with hose clamps, cut tubes, water leaks, etc. The kind of pump I'm proposing is dead silent and many people have to touch it just to feel that it is even working if they don't see any bubbles going by.

(Off Topic:BTW, I would like to see a big bore mosfet cooler some time when you get a chance.) :D
 
Top Nurse said:
You are missing the point here. If you already have a fan exhausting air through a radiator what difference does it make whether you add a little more heat to the water and exhaust it out that way. If you use your example then you are simply moving the heat from the chipset or hard drives to the air inside the case. My way moves it all out of the case and since you already have the fan going for the radiator and it is not being OC who cares?
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The warm-air from the passive cooling would be exhausted due to the effects of the radiator anyway. Again - why pay more, and route tubing everywhere, when it's not required to do so?

It's only cluttered with a big bore solution not a small bore solution.
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The small bore tubing may be half the size, but you're proposing routing 3x as much of it through the case like spaghetti. How is that not cluttering?

As for the rest I guess that depends entirely on whether he wants to give up his 5 1/4 slots to put hard drives in them when they can easily go where they are supposed to. Like in 3.5 slots.
Or he could just put them in the 3.5" bays and run them like that anyway, without any extra help. The case alone acts as a decent enough of a heatsink in my experience, unless you're running a 10K RPM Raptor, in which case you've gone and discounted the silence solution too.

But even if he were willing to give up the 5.25 slots then there is even a better solution that makes those drives even quieter and cools them at the same time! Put them in an enclosed hard drive case (made by Aqua Computer, AlphaCool, and WaterCool among others.
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Why not just use a $10 9dBA 10CFM 8cm fan blowing over them? If you can claim to hear such a fan with the case closed, you've gotta be superman.

I would also like to mention that the equipment I'm proposing doesn't appear to have any problems cooling hard drives, chipsets, PSU's, VGA cards, and even mosfet's!
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I'd like to mention, again, that 99% of the time that these things do not need to be actively cooled with fannage, let alone with water. The exception being the VGA cards, but plenty of people water-cool them anyway.


Well after sprouting that last little bit about OC to hell then I would hope you would have had the sense to not even bring that subject up. ;) However, since you did I would like to point out that your concern is not for the average Joe computer user, but your slant is as one of the ballz out water cooler's that I liken to the Top Fuel Funny Car crowd. Who cares whether this would be a problem when running 5 Ghz on a P4 or 3.2 Ghz on an XP64? It's not a problem within the parameters set by the original poster as you have so eloquently put it. :D
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The systems to achieve those overclocks cost less than the AC setup you're pushing at the opening poster, and can do it in relative quiet. You seem to have a problem with accepting that other solutions than your chosen A-C kit, can cool better and cost less. I would like the opening poster to be aware of this information to hear both sides of the story, which is why I raised it.

Even though I am talking of using more coolers than you are I still think it will go faster together with less problems than your solution.
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That is an unfounded speculation on your part. What do you think is going to go wrong? Rather than speak in vague terms of fear, uncertainty and doubt, you should actually warn the opening poster of just what it is that would go wrong in your opinion, rather than attempt to play on fear with no basis.

With push-fits all you do is cut the tubing and push it in. No hassles with hose clamps, cut tubes, water leaks, etc. The kind of pump I'm proposing is dead silent and many people have to touch it just to feel that it is even working if they don't see any bubbles going by.
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There are no more or no less hassles with either method with respect to leaks. It all comes down to the user installing it correctly. Have seen plenty of cases where people with push-fit fittings failed to push the tubing in correctly and got leaks.

As for your pump, I was proposing an Eheim 1048? Got a problem with that? Got a quieter pump?

(Off Topic:BTW, I would like to see a big bore mosfet cooler some time when you get a chance.) :D
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Sure - seen the new ATI board's with DangerDen mosfet coolers?

Click here for piccy

I'm guessing you haven't.
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saw that sapphire board a while back......it just looks like a pumping nightmare to me.

regarding mosfet cooling, i have a cut up heatsink passively cooling mine, and although it significantly reduces the temps that the mosfets opperate at, it has made no difference to my voltage stability or how high i can take my OC. i have a bad board to start with, but that is what i have found running with and without the sinks in place.

then again, some people shooting for the outer limits over on dfi street say that as they got near the limit of what their board could do, the added mosfet and reg chip cooling took them that extra mile.

i don't see the point of HDD cooling, even hot drives from the current generation don't get hot enough to need water cooling.a quiet fan in a well designed drive cage with keep things sufficiently cool. if you were to run early generation cheetah 15K drives, that would be a different matter, but on normal 7200 and 10 K drives it's just a waste of money and effort.

my swiftech chipset cooler keeps my NB nicely cooled, even without the fan. good cooling, quiet opperation, less tubing, better flow characteristics. air cooled chipsets make a lot of sense at the moment.

if you would be so kind as to link some of these watercooled european PSUs, top nurse, i would be interested in seeing them. all watercooled PSUs that i have come across on my own are modded PSUs done by some hack-shop that might or might not know their ass from their elbow. i would not willingly stand in the same room as such a supply, while it was in opperation. if you have found watercooled supplies made by reputable PSU manufacturers, i might have to re-evaluate my opinion of the practice.

you can get better cooling than AC stuff gives at a similar price with a well planned high flow setup. you can get something high flow that performs as well as AC stuff at a much lower price

you pay a premium for AC because it is imported and looks pretty. if looks are that important to you, then by all means go for it.
 
why dump more heat to the water?
becoz i paid good money for the radiator, and i want to get the most out of it

zalman passive hd cooler is not good enough
if you use a passive hd cooler, that means you will need good air flow inside the case, meaning that you will need a few case fan inside, i ve only got 1 fan on top of the case and that is controlled by MSI core center

watercool PSU
the only thing is that it is still 20pin atx power and their 12v rail is low
12501_1.jpg

12502_1.jpg
 
nigely said:
why dump more heat to the water?
becoz i paid good money for the radiator, and i want to get the most out of it
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so, you "get the most" out of a rad by dumping additional heat into your coolant, and running all of the other components in your system a little but warmer than you would run them otherwise, with no gain to how well you HDD runs/performs/lasts? do you also propose dumping the heat of your car's air conditioner into your engine coolant, to "get the most" out of the radiator in your car, that you paid good money for?

nigely said:
zalman passive hd cooler is not good enough
if you use a passive hd cooler, that means you will need good air flow inside the case, meaning that you will need a few case fan inside, i ve only got 1 fan on top of the case and that is controlled by MSI core center
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so, just for my own enlightenment, how hot do you drives get with and without watercooling? with and without the zalman heatpipe cooler? a quick nip over to the western digital site notes that their drives are rated for 55 C sustained opperating temp. my two raptors and one cavier packed tightly together in a three drive cage, with a fan running at well below 20 db don't see the hot side of 40 C. where is the need for expensive water cooling, even if you don't have great case airflow, when using a nice passive HDD cooler?

nigely said:
watercool PSU
the only thing is that it is still 20pin atx power and their 12v rail is low
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thanks for the pics. now, as for the reputable condition.....i'll have to find some reviews of this company's product before i make TOO big an ass of myself, but a know issue with a particular rail running low does not smack of "quality"........i was most interested in the notion of a watercooled PSU by fortron.

edit: were you referring to the low current output on the 12 V rail, as opposed to ultra-esque voltage sag?
 
you buy a car to drive and to get you where you want to go, right?
you dont buy a car becoz you want to cool the coolant in your radiator, do you?

i live in Hong Kong and the weather here in summer is quite hot, about 30c-32c in day time, and i dont keep my air con 24 hours a day, and the hdd can become quite hot with passive cooling, i watercool my drive is becoz of the quietness not the temp

the only thing i can hear now is the DDC and the fans from my enermax noise taker
 
cell_491 said:
just get an exos 2...seriously they are quiet easy to use and very efficient
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That was one of the "systems" I proposed a ways back along with an A-C system. But everybody seems to be having so much fun here I guess they missed that one. ;) However, I don't think the Top Fuel crowd would admit to that actually working so it is best to ignore that proposal :eek:
 
Top Nurse said:
That was one of the "systems" I proposed a ways back along with an A-C system. But everybody seems to be having so much fun here I guess they missed that one. ;) However, I don't think the Top Fuel crowd would admit to that actually working so it is best to ignore that proposal :eek:
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TN can you seriously stop being a little fangirl. Sometimes I wonder if Sharka is giving you a commision on all of their sales. Because it seems like you try very hard to convince people to buy AC gear from sharka, rather than trying to advise people on what their options are.

Just because someone decides to let the original poster know of an alternative solution that just so happens to use cheaper, just as quiet, large bore components does not mean that they are admonishing your recomendations.

The trend lately of people bashing large vs small bore systems is quite tiresome, and it is making the water cooling section almost as annoying as the video card section of the forums.


EDIT : This goes to anyone else acting in a less than helpful, propaganda-ish way as well
 
nigely said:
you buy a car to drive and to get you where you want to go, right?
you dont buy a car becoz you want to cool the coolant in your radiator, do you?
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i buy a computer because i need something to do my office/web/productivity stuff for school with, and i like to game. i peltier/watercool because i want to run my computer faster, not because i want to cool the coolant in my loop.

if i had a decent car to play with, that was less mission critical than my one and only car is to me getting to and from work and school, i would tweak that hell out of it to make that run faster as well (although not deliberately louder, and certainly not with absurd body kit or audio equipment)

nigely said:
i live in Hong Kong and the weather here in summer is quite hot, about 30c-32c in day time, and i dont keep my air con 24 hours a day, and the hdd can become quite hot with passive cooling, i watercool my drive is becoz of the quietness not the temp
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i live in southern canada, without air conditioning, and the daytime temperatures have not gone below 30 this week. humidex has it feeling close to 40. night temps have not gone below 20. now, how hot is "quite hot" for that passively cooled HDD? is it less than 50C? if so, why are you worried? you're running it within opperating spec. if you can keep your drive below 50C with a passive cooling solution, and i believe that you can, then watercooling it instead does not further your goals in any way.

nigely said:
the only thing i can hear now is the DDC and the fans from my enermax noise taker
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lucky you. the loudest thing in my room is the window fan desperately trying to keep the air moving, so i don't drown in my own sweat. :D
 
Erasmus354 said:
TN can you seriously stop being a little fangirl. Sometimes I wonder if Sharka is giving you a commision on all of their sales. Because it seems like you try very hard to convince people to buy AC gear from sharka, rather than trying to advise people on what their options are.
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Well the only place you can buy A-C gear in the USA is from Sharka so why should I tell them anywhere else? I could mention SNT, but then I would have to explain all about that and I would just as soon not be telling people to go somewhere that might screw them. :shrug: Now when it gets down to brass tacks, Sharka sells a lot of water cooling stuff. They even sell Danger Den, Innovatek, Asetek Waterchill, and Thermaltake. While I do recommend that stuff on occassion do you see me suggesting that stuff all the time? I usually recommend FrozenCPU for Innovatek. BTW, when was the last time you recommended any small diameter tubing setups?

Erasmus354 said:
Just because someone decides to let the original poster know of an alternative solution that just so happens to use cheaper, just as quiet, large bore components does not mean that they are admonishing your recomendations.
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I don't take it that way :) If you go back in this thread I keep offering alternative solutions that changes as the original poster adds more information about their likes and dislikes. In fact as I pointed out a couple of posts above I did recommend he get a Koolance Exos as it "is really simple." The Exos will do what he wants to do, is really simple, and inexpensive. Everyone was having such a good time picking apart my suggestions they must have missed that one. ;)

Erasmus354 said:
The trend lately of people bashing large vs small bore systems is quite tiresome, and it is making the water cooling section almost as annoying as the video card section of the forums.
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I totally agree! So how about we stop right here? Large bore and small bore water cooling work well for most people. If you want the absolute best water cooling then get a big bore setup. If you don't care about the best flat out water cooling performance then pick a system that best suits your desires and specifications. BTW, there is no shame in wanting a balls to the walls cooling setup but let people know that is the direction you are coming from. I tell people righht up front that small bore tubing setups may not give the best cooling, but it probably won't make any difference in their ability to run their machine unless they are OC to hell and back.

Peace! I have to go do my nursing thing for a while so have a nice Sunday :) And no commissions, stock options, or other stuff. Hell I don't even get a discount! I pay the same price everyone else does :(
 
TopNurse, if you do decide to go back through this thread, what you will find is this:

- People reacted to your baseless and false attacks on "Big Bore"
- People put together suggestions for a quiet big-bore system
- You reacted by attacking big-bore again
- People responded by explaining their reasons
- You reacted by attacking those reasons and taking it rather personally

Nobody here, if you bother to read it, was ever actually attacking "small bore". People here were arguing to put-forward a low-cost, low-noise, effective cooling solution for the opening poster, which you then proceeded to attack and pick apart as somehow being inferior, problematic, and noisy, again, all without basis. Then you took it personally again that somehow by suggesting something alternative and just as effective that this was an attack on your choice, when really all that was being explained was the reasons in a fairly level-headed fashion.

Frankly I am getting very tired of having to come here and constantly attempt to control the vast levels of misinformation which you spread, and having to counter the baseless attacks which you make, and having to put up with you treating what are merely differences of opinion as personal attacks on your choice.
 
Cathar said:
TopNurse, if you do decide to go back through this thread, what you will find is this:

- People reacted to your baseless and false attacks on "Big Bore"
- People put together suggestions for a quiet big-bore system
- You reacted by attacking big-bore again
- People responded by explaining their reasons
- You reacted by attacking those reasons and taking it rather personally

Nobody here, if you bother to read it, was ever actually attacking "small bore". People here were arguing to put-forward a low-cost, low-noise, effective cooling solution for the opening poster, which you then proceeded to attack and pick apart as somehow being inferior, problematic, and noisy, again, all without basis. Then you took it personally again that somehow by suggesting something alternative and just as effective that this was an attack on your choice, when really all that was being explained was the reasons in a fairly level-headed fashion.

Frankly I am getting very tired of having to come here and constantly attempt to control the vast levels of misinformation which you spread, and having to counter the baseless attacks which you make, and having to put up with you treating what are merely differences of opinion as personal attacks on your choice.
Click to expand...

Well aquamaster ( TN for those that dont know ) it looks like your making friends across the globe ! :eek:
 
well she could still be my friend if she would fuck me...but then again her I/D tubing probably isnt big enough for my pump
 
cell_491 said:
well she could still be my friend if she would CENSORED me...but then again her I/D tubing probably isnt big enough for my pump
Click to expand...

I think that is the first sex analogy made from watercooling equipment I have seen lol
 
cell_491 said:
well she could still be my friend if she would fuck me...but then again her I/D tubing probably isnt big enough for my pump
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this is crude and un-necessary.

a dispute in cooling methodology need not turn into a contest of insults.
 
Erasmus354 said:
I think that is the first sex analogy made from watercooling equipment I have seen lol
Click to expand...
i rather hope that it will also be the last, since it really contributes nothing worthwhile to the discussion.

earlier today, you seemed to hold a similar opinion regarding such posts.
 
DFI Daishi said:
i rather hope that it will also be the last, since it really contributes nothing worthwhile to the discussion.

earlier today, you seemed to hold a similar opinion regarding such posts.
Click to expand...
mln
 
DFI Daishi said:
i live in southern canada, without air conditioning, and the daytime temperatures have not gone below 30 this week. humidex has it feeling close to 40. night temps have not gone below 20. now, how hot is "quite hot" for that passively cooled HDD? is it less than 50C? if so, why are you worried? you're running it within opperating spec. if you can keep your drive below 50C with a passive cooling solution, and i believe that you can, then watercooling it instead does not further your goals in any way.
Click to expand...

I dont think the drive will run below 50c with passive cooling only, not without air con and case fan, i have 1 case fan on the roof of my case, and thats set to the slowest speed in MSI corecenter
sure we have diff point of view, i want my computer to be as quiet as possible, you want to cool your CPU as low as possible
 
cell_491 said:
its a hand with the middle finger up...it looks funny in this font
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odd.....i usually flip people off left-handed.

then again, i have no illusions about what finger i would rather have broken, if the other party happens to take excption to the gesture.
 
DFI Daishi said:
odd.....i usually flip people off left-handed.

then again, i have no illusions about what finger i would rather have broken, if the other party happens to take excption to the gesture.
Click to expand...
lol
 
nigely said:
I dont think the drive will run below 50c with passive cooling only, not without air con and case fan, i have 1 case fan on the roof of my case, and thats set to the slowest speed in MSI corecenter
sure we have diff point of view, i want my computer to be as quiet as possible, you want to cool your CPU as low as possible
Click to expand...
not QUITE true, since i'm in the middle of doing a re-build to try and cut down on noise, but i don't seem to be bothered by noise quite as eastily as some others who post around here.

if you cannot keep your drive within opperating temperature limits with a quiet fan or a passive cooling solution, then i will not contend that watercooling is a worthwhile investment in your specific situation.

have you tried firing up a third party temp monitoring prog, like mbm5, that supports IDE thermal diode read back, just to see what your drive is really running? if your HDD supports HDD SMART, then it should have a built in temp monitoring feature.
 
DFI Daishi said:
not QUITE true, since i'm in the middle of doing a re-build to try and cut down on noise, but i don't seem to be bothered by noise quite as eastily as some others who post around here.

if you cannot keep your drive within opperating temperature limits with a quiet fan or a passive cooling solution, then i will not contend that watercooling is a worthwhile investment in your specific situation.

have you tried firing up a third party temp monitoring prog, like mbm5, that supports IDE thermal diode read back, just to see what your drive is really running? if your HDD supports HDD SMART, then it should have a built in temp monitoring feature.
Click to expand...

i have them setup in raid 0, NF4 can not see the temp on the HDD.
i ve got 320gb of stuff, so i rather keep it cool while running, dont want to risk it
 
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