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I use IBT usually to quickly check for instability. Then I have found that the only true test is to see if I'm folding@home stable. It kinda sucks when I am trying to push an overclock since I run the risk of losing work units, but it's the only program I've found which shows 100% stability.
I think both methods can work as long as they are done properly and/or it suits the type of TIM.
For the spreading evenly to work, you have to have a mega thin layer which is not so easy to accomplish.
I've switched to using a small pea sized in the middle and let the heatsink spread it...
It's a good thing I didn't go with this heatsink. I ended up going with a TRUE Black 120 and with the side case panel on, I have perhaps 1-2mm clearance. Would have been a tight squeeze for sure.
Positive pressure is when you have more airflow going in than out.
Negative pressure is when you have more airflow going out than in.
I personally use negative pressure. (1x140mm in front bottom brings air in + 2x120mm fans exhausting air in top rear and side and 1x92mm cpu fan exhausting out...
Thanks for the update wdtiger, now I have to figure out if this behemoth will fit in my case (Rosewill Gear X3). I measured the case myself and have some rough estimates but don't know yet if it will fit. This beast has a height of 165mm (when you factor in the TY-140 fan) and my case can hold...
Define box cooler. :D
These are the ones I've been eyeing for my AMD, but they still will rock with a 2500k.
From best to worst (only temperatures matter, cost be damned yet staying under $80):
Thermalright Silver Arrow > Noctua DH-14 > Thermalright HR-02 Macho > Noctua NH-U12P SE2 >...
Okang beat me to it. I was going to order one from them when I saw they had them in stock, but with it being a brand new site only selling 2 items and no resellerating entry at all makes me say hrmmmm.
I think I'll wait a bit longer till some more reputable vendors have them in stock...