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http://thetechsource.tv/fractal-design-define-r4-review/
A few things to add to that video:
The case is very heavy, at least 25lbs (I think the shipping weight said 33lbs)
The hard drive trays can be rotated 90 degrees
There are thumbscrews everywhere, not just on the case doors
The HD trays...
They probably don't have the metal fully supported while punching out the holes and that causes it to deform (although other than the top vents, the case is perfect). I guess I'll do my build tomorrow, no point in RMA'ing it if every one is like that.
Oh and I purchased mine from Newegg.
So if you turn off ClearType windows switches shell fonts? I don't think it should.
Just to be sure your turning it off the right way, (on Win7) go to the start menu and type in 'cttune.exe' (without quotes) and then un-tick the check box to disable ClearType.
I'm not sure about the sub-pixel structure on current OLED screens, they still have separate pixels for Red, Green and Blue.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subpixel_rendering
That being said I see no reason for manufactures to not use either BGR or RGB striping on OLED'S.
Microsoft's...
If your bored check this article out. There is a lot of good info on how the signal in hdmi/dvi cables degrades over distance. The same thing can happen if the wire get damaged. -
Part 1: http://gizmodo.com/266616/
Part 2: http://gizmodo.com/268788/
Oh dude why didn't you say your still under warranty. I wonder if they will send a tech out or have you ship the monitor back. Because it should take a tech 20 min tops to replace a bad board.
Anyway, good luck. :)
You have to get lucky with clouding and backlight bleed. It sucks, but its true. Two of the same screens could have totally different amounts of clouding.
As for edge and corner flashlighting/bleed its usually because the bezel is pressing on the screen too hard. I remember reading on...
Loose solder joint on one of the video processor boards, loose LVDS cable, loose solder joint on one of the dozens of flex cables that connect directly to the panel, bad TCON board, loose DVI/HDMI connector.....It could be any one of a dozen different things. :eek:
Then again it might just be a...
I'm sure you tried it, but can you swap the cables from one monitor to the other, and after that also switch the video card port they are connected to. It might very well just be a bad HDMI or DVI cable(they might be digital, but you can still drop parts of the signal if the cable is bad)...
I had the 246WP, there should be a option in the menu to switch to PC mode (also check for the 1:1 scaling option somewhere in the menu).
While doing those 2 settings might help, your best bet is to do a Google search for "ati overscan" or "ati underscan" and try some of the fixes there.
Sounds like your backlight is inverter is dying.
CCFL = The lights that are behind the glass(think miniature florescent lights).
Inverter = Converts DC to AC to power the CCFL.
If your ok with a screw driver(and have taken electronics stuff apart before), its probably only about 10 screws to...
I'm sure glad I never used windex on any of my screens.
But pulling off the anti-glare film, dam that's a sick mod. :eek: I didn't even know that was possible.
I'm so going to try it with my old Olevia 32" TV, I already replaced the CCFL's, BEF(brightness enhancing film) and replaced the...