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A lot of weirdo errors can be due to a faulty power supply. Especially something that's more than a few years old that hasn't been powered up in a while.
I know it's probably a custom Shuttle PSU in there, but if you can find a way to hook up a spare, it might be worth testing.
So I don't know as much about US cable TV standards as most, since I come from the Rest of the World.
But it was my understanding, for digital TV, you're only looking at ~3Mbit/sec for SD and ~20Mbit/sec for HD programming. In other words, easily enough to go over USB. It's all compressed with...
I would recommend this. External USB optical drives cost about $30 and give you flexibility: you can unplug and use with your netbooks/laptops/etc.
Plus everybody always needs MOAR RADIATOR.
You say that you don't want watercooling, but have you considered something like the Corsair H80? You'll have to remove both HDD drive cages and (maybe) use your own fans if you want quietness.
Have you already bought the H70 and the GPU coolers?
If not, I'd re-consider them. If you're going to get all of these, why not go half a step further and make a custom waterloop, with all your parts hooked up to a 360mm radiator?
You may still have problems fitting them into a micro-ATX case...
Not in my experience; all the pumps I've ever heard have been quiet.
But since OP has both an H50 and an H60, he can judge that one for himself...
And to answer the original question: no. Those temperatures are well within spec. (Actually, I don't know which spec, since OP didn't mention which...
I looked at the pictures, and all I saw were the headphones.
Audio-Technica ATH-AD700? Nice choice. If you were inclined to say "screw the computer, I'm upgrading my audio", then the AD900 is said to be a very nice step up. Unfortunately, whilst there are more expensive Audio-Technica models...
Quick random tip for tubes and fittings. If you find that the tube is too tight to get onto the fittings, keep a cup of hot water nearby. Dip the end of the tube in, to heat it up. That will make it easier to slip on. (Also works when pulling it off... but don't burn yourself!)
Erkkk...
I wouldn't try replacing the heatsinks on the RAM. There's enough complication with a memory waterblock as-is.
So it would seem like your choice is between a) exchanging the RAM for compatible parts, and b) returning the waterblock and telling yourself that it probably wasn't...
In my view, if you have a $2000-2500 budget, and you're already running a water loop... why not drop another $50 plus fittings and have a RAM waterblock :)
Correctnickel is perfectly fine... but there's a wrinkle.
EK Waterblocks have, in the past, made nickel-plated waterblocks with a defective nickel coating. This coating would corrode, flake off and cause damage to pumps and other parts of the waterloop.
EK have corrected this in the new...
Well, you have put a lot of thought into this!
Many of these questions are too specific for me to have insight. However I can make a few observations.
With your fans. In my opinion, they should be on the "inside" of the radiators, i.e. fan, radiator, case. This means that the radiator blocks...
You might want to search the web for some opinions (yea or nay), but in general I think the consensus is:
Pressure drop (or flow restriction): don't worry about it (either parallel or serial), it's not a huge factor unless you're doing something really out there like chaining 8 GPUs together...
I like your ideas!
Regarding the order: in my opinion, the order of components doesn't matter (except, reservoir always directly before pump; in your case a combined res+pump is fine).
Therefore, the shortest and easiest-to-build loop is probably: res+pump > RAM > CPU > MOSFET > external rad >...