Silverghost
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How about H add some basic image resize code.
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
Phuncz
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In the mean time, people should learn to use the thumbnail or resize button on most imagehost websites.
We don't need 2400 pixels of motion blur and ISO noise.
We don't need 2400 pixels of motion blur and ISO noise.
Thanks WiSK yeah I was planning on using the MCP and now that I've seen it that aqua computer top looks pretty cool too so I think I will probably use that thanks aceman 
For the wires I was thinking of having grooves under the res but I was unsure of where I wanted to direct them, I'm gunna design it properly next week after my exams but I am unsure because the design ideas I have now seem pretty hard to manufacture (relatively) cheaply by CNC or similar
For the wires I was thinking of having grooves under the res but I was unsure of where I wanted to direct them, I'm gunna design it properly next week after my exams but I am unsure because the design ideas I have now seem pretty hard to manufacture (relatively) cheaply by CNC or similar
Building Testing
Intel Core i7 4770K
ASUS Maximus VI Impact
Corsair Dominator 2*8GB 1866C9
Plextor M6E M.2 NGFF
2x HGST 1T 7200rpm 2.5" HDD
Silverstone SFX 450W
Silverstone PP05-E Flex Cables
Silverstone SOB02 6X BD-R
ASUS Titan Black (Waiting block)
Cooling
EK-FB ASUS M6I - Acetal+Nickel CSQ,
EK Coolstream PE 240mm Radiator,
EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Pump,
EK- Adapter 90° G1/4 Black *2 (for Rad)
EK- Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black *4 (2 for Rad 2 for Res)
EK-CSQ Adapter 90° G1/4 Black Nickel *4 (2 for mb block 2 for pump)
EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black Nickel *4(2 for mb block 2 for pump)
FrozenQ M1 Reservoir
Aquacomputer 1/4 Thread Aquacover Laing DDC Pump Top
Gentle Typhoon 2150rpm PWM*2
Waitting for Aqua water block
Aquacomputer kryographics for GTX Titan Black, grey acrylic glass edition, nickel plated version
Aquacomputer Back plate for kryographics GTX Titan and GTX Titan Black, active XCS
Intel Core i7 4770K
ASUS Maximus VI Impact
Corsair Dominator 2*8GB 1866C9
Plextor M6E M.2 NGFF
2x HGST 1T 7200rpm 2.5" HDD
Silverstone SFX 450W
Silverstone PP05-E Flex Cables
Silverstone SOB02 6X BD-R
ASUS Titan Black (Waiting block)
Cooling
EK-FB ASUS M6I - Acetal+Nickel CSQ,
EK Coolstream PE 240mm Radiator,
EK-DDC 3.2 PWM Pump,
EK- Adapter 90° G1/4 Black *2 (for Rad)
EK- Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black *4 (2 for Rad 2 for Res)
EK-CSQ Adapter 90° G1/4 Black Nickel *4 (2 for mb block 2 for pump)
EK-CSQ Fitting 10/13mm G1/4 -Black Nickel *4(2 for mb block 2 for pump)
FrozenQ M1 Reservoir
Aquacomputer 1/4 Thread Aquacover Laing DDC Pump Top
Gentle Typhoon 2150rpm PWM*2
Waitting for Aqua water block
Aquacomputer kryographics for GTX Titan Black, grey acrylic glass edition, nickel plated version
Aquacomputer Back plate for kryographics GTX Titan and GTX Titan Black, active XCS
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Not very well ~
one screw holes stripped thread
and only with 4 plugs
honestly, how disappointing. Looks like I'm gonna have to think of something else.
Very nice. Unfortunate hearing the number of issues regarding the quality of their M1 Reservoirs. I had zero issues with mine. One tip if I would suggest, switch the fans on the radiator to a pull configuration. Much more air is forced up through the top (almost acting as an exhaust) releasing more heat compared to the push configuration I originally had (like yours). Use the metal fan grills that came with the M1 of course and you won't have to worry about tubing hitting the blades.
This is my build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioGHo_yM7SY (before the push to pull config change)
voklskier4452
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Can't say I am at all surprised to hear that frozenQ is having QC issues. There were issues with the helix reservoirs when they first started becoming popular as well. There is just something about water cooling that attracts people who can't or don't want to maintain a certain standard of quality. Of course FQ has nothing on the debacle that was iandh, that was fun to watch.
PlayfulPhoenix
Limp Gawd
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- Apr 20, 2014
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I've been under the impression that there are some very good options regarding radiators with integrated reservoirs, which fit in this case. The Swiftech H220 being the obvious one, but there are others - the Swiftech MCRX20-QP/XP, for example. Even in the expandable AIO space you get that with the CM Glacer 240L.
Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to use an integrated reservoir, or would prefer a dedicated reservoir? I'm less-than-totaly-informed when it comes to custom watercooling, which is why I ask Having everything contained in the M1 (rather then bolt on a protruding reservoir) seems to me like the perfect way to go about this, which is perhaps why I am a tad surprised nobody seems to suggest it.
Is there a reason why you wouldn't want to use an integrated reservoir, or would prefer a dedicated reservoir? I'm less-than-totaly-informed when it comes to custom watercooling, which is why I ask
Having everything contained in the M1 (rather then bolt on a protruding reservoir) seems to me like the perfect way to go about this, which is perhaps why I am a tad surprised nobody seems to suggest it.The reason for a larger reservoir with visible fluid level is because fluid evaporates and you can easily see when it needs topping up. With the H220/240L it's tricky to fill and bleed off all the air bubbles, and you can't see when it needs filling. I regret now getting the M1 res, given the cost and poor workmanship, but it's the more convenient option in principle.
Being able to see the amount of fluid remaining in the reservoir, as well as any build up or changes in the coolant color/consistency.
It also adds the ability to top off your loop without worrying about rebleeding, and makes it easier/safer to prime the pump initially using just gravity without having to tip the case to an angle.
Wisk - I had quality issues with mine as well, but was able to get it sorted out over time at no cost to myself. FrozenQ was also able to drill in the metal threading inserts on the 9 faceplate mounting holes for me, so hopefully I won't have to deal with anymore stripped threads.
It also adds the ability to top off your loop without worrying about rebleeding, and makes it easier/safer to prime the pump initially using just gravity without having to tip the case to an angle.
Wisk - I had quality issues with mine as well, but was able to get it sorted out over time at no cost to myself. FrozenQ was also able to drill in the metal threading inserts on the 9 faceplate mounting holes for me, so hopefully I won't have to deal with anymore stripped threads.
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I'm glad it worked out for you, Siba. I've decided not to RMA the res, but instead I will use a wicking acrylic weld to repair the cracks.
PlayfulPhoenix
Limp Gawd
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- Apr 20, 2014
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Good to know! Thanks WiSK & Siba, for the info. I'm learning every day...
As people who have had water cooling rigs in the M1, how often have you needed to top up your loop? How's the experience been, both day to day and during installation/maintenance?
That's the thing. Topping up isn't something that you do every month, can run for years if it's well installed.
What you need to guard against is a sudden change. Maybe the water evaporates slowly (the tubes are always very slightly porous). It increases negative pressure within the tubes. Then an o-ring somewhere maybe can't hold back anymore and lets in a load of air. The air gets sucked into the pump and the pump gets damaged from running dry. Sure it's a doom scenario and a bit random. But from experience, I like to see a full res just for the sake of safety (or paranoia!). I ran a H60 in a SG05 for a while, and even within the warranty period I couldn't accept anymore than I couldn't examine it internally and felt like I was just waiting for it to fail unexpectedly.
Aquacomputer 1/4 Thread Aquacover Laing DDC Pump Top
Have you thrown your video card into the case, even on air, to see if it clears with this pump top? I've seen your subsequent photos but the video card is absent. Most aftermarket tops seem to add too much height over the base top, interfering with long GPU's.
I feel like I'm one of the only people who got a solid M1 Res when I read this thread. Ended up selling it off to zoob for him to play around with.
Aquacomputer 1/4 Thread Aquacover Laing DDC Pump Top
is the lowest one with side in/out port ddc pump top i found
dimensions: 62x62x20mm
The height of this top is near to original one~
Some pic show the space in the case~
space more than one PCI i think~
the GPU Block still in transition~
so i need to check after i get all parts~
is the lowest one with side in/out port ddc pump top i found
dimensions: 62x62x20mm
The height of this top is near to original one~
Some pic show the space in the case~
space more than one PCI i think~
the GPU Block still in transition~
so i need to check after i get all parts~
Another estimation
EK Water Blocks EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140
- Overal Height: 140 mm (161 mm incl. pump)
So we can get the ddc pump without top is 21mm ( with base top is 38 mm)
after add aqua top~
the total hight is 41mm (without plugs)
Withing the Aquacover DDC Pump Top, it may increase more than 3mm
and according to this pic
the space is 49mm
it should be fit~
EK Water Blocks EK-DDC 3.2 PWM X-RES 140
- Overal Height: 140 mm (161 mm incl. pump)
So we can get the ddc pump without top is 21mm ( with base top is 38 mm)
after add aqua top~
the total hight is 41mm (without plugs)
Withing the Aquacover DDC Pump Top, it may increase more than 3mm
and according to this pic
the space is 49mm
it should be fit~
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You mean like this one?
what is fan flow forward? in or out the case?
One issue is that may need one more fitting to extend in/out put of radiator~
True... this guy's build is a work of art! More pics...
Exactly like that. Air is being pulled from the outside --> in. I have found no change or difference in temps and feel more air coming out the top then before. Reading this post convinced me to try it: http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040827777&postcount=11396
Though, I'm afraid now I have to redo my tubing setup since I've had it the other way for about 6 months now.
I'm at work, so can't view the video, but knowing Linus it's thinly disguised promo for Noctua fans right?
Here's a more scientific analysis of various combinations of push/pull/shrouds - http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/
The argument that "pull" saves you unscrewing the fans when cleaning is missing a trick. You would need to separate the fans anyway to get the dust off the leading edges of the blades.
AFD
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I'm at work, so can't view the video, but knowing Linus it's thinly disguised promo for Noctua fans right?
Surprisingly, not so much
I only skimmed it, but the video showed several Corsair fans, a couple Thermalrights, some APs and one Noctua (that was an example of what not to use for radiators). Also mentioned Yate Loons.
For HSP, he recommended Noctua F-series, Scythe Gentle Typhoons, Silverstone Air Penetrators > Corsair SP-series > Noctua S-series.
He also mentioned something about pushing and pulling.. so I skipped over those parts. Now get back to work!
PlayfulPhoenix
Limp Gawd
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Do you mean Rev 2 of the M1? This post is up to date:
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040835182&postcount=11429
(If anyone has a request for an update or addition for that post, let me know!)
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If you care about that at all. I honestly don't clean my PC that thoroughly more than once a year, I just clean the filters every once in a while. The radiator could easily be cleaned monthly while only cleaning the fans yearly. I know that a push configuration that requires me to dismantle the radiator every time I want to clean it would simply make me reluctant to do it at all.
Phuncz
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Much sticky. So needed. Wow.
PlayfulPhoenix
Limp Gawd
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First. Fucking. Page.
PlayfulPhoenix
Limp Gawd
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I'm maintaining an up-to-date FAQ and resource list here.
This cued me to actually look at the OP, and see that the FAQ is now linked
I suppose I'll try to be a tad more vigilant with regards to updating it! Though I am happy that it's obvious and more accessible now. Redundant questions should be less prevalent going forward.
...well, in theory, at least.
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AFD
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Yeah, I saw that mentioned in a [H] deals thread last week. Only way to get one is to buy their portable drive..
I've been using it for about 2 months. I like it but it does have an annoying tick to it because of some power management feature
Phuncz
2[H]4U
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I love that meme, it seemed appropriate. And now your FAQ is finally where it should be ! On the first fucking page
PlayfulPhoenix
Limp Gawd
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I love that meme, it seemed appropriate. And now your FAQ is finally where it should be ! On the first fucking page
I couldn't resist an illustration after you brought it up
I'm almost tempted to have one on the FAQ just for the lolz ("Much questions. So ITX. Such frequently. Wow.")@Necere/Wahaha: Any updates? (Not to be impatient at all, just curious!)
W360's been on the road, which was why it wasn't updated earlier.I love that meme, it seemed appropriate. And now your FAQ is finally where it should be ! On the first fucking page
I'm currently trying to figure out how to let people choose a shipping method and then charge the correct international shipping rates. Nothing is ever as simple as you'd hope. It's the last hurdle though before we can start taking orders.
We need to meet MOQ, so yes, but I don't really see that being a problem. Cases will come out of manufacturing - presumably in one bunch (unless we get a lot more orders than we expect) - and go straight to the shipping company to ship out. Shipping times will depend on method (air or freight) and distance, mainly.
I was looking for the perfect (and smallest) mATX case that I could use for an mATX X99 build in the future and the best/smallest case I could find was the Silverstone TJ08-E. I would've really loved to build in this case, but it doesn't have support for a 240mm rad, and there isn't much fan support.
I was wondering if you guys ever considered making an mATX version of the Ncase M1. Just to be clear, I'm not talking about just adding another slot. What I want is all the dimensions of the case to be extended enough to fit an mATX motherboard, an ATX power supply with modular plugs, and 4 slots.
I was wondering if you guys ever considered making an mATX version of the Ncase M1. Just to be clear, I'm not talking about just adding another slot. What I want is all the dimensions of the case to be extended enough to fit an mATX motherboard, an ATX power supply with modular plugs, and 4 slots.