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slipperyskip
Gawd
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2005
- Messages
- 527
What if IBM had invented the PC twenty years earlier? What would Don Draper's computer look like?
What I'm doing here in this thread is trying out new materials, finishes and methods to see how they work. It does however have a theme because it's just mo' fun that way.
A blogger over at Core77 challenged me to do something in the mid century modern style. MCM is all about vast expanses of wooden surfaces and that works well with my experimentations.
I did some research and came up with this early-Sixties Danish-designed desk that I liked a lot. The floating table top was a common design during the period. Slender legs and an overall airiness were typical of the period. The television show Mad Men has made MCM very popular and the front mounted built-in bar cabinet reminds me of the show.
This project will be built around a Silverstone TJ08. It is a steel case that fits micro-ATX motherboards. I have no intention to spend money on computer components for this rig. My design will have no provisions for optical drives, USB ports, ventilation ports or anything else that supports imaginary installed equipment. I will however design it so these things can be easily backfit if required. The vent system will be custom built to whatever ends up inside...if anything.
My intention is to purchase all the materials at my local DIY. For me, that means Lowe's. I start off with 1/2" x 2" x 24" red oak boards that will be formed into the legs. Here is a stock board next to one that I have rough-cut into a taper. I make the taper by adjusting my table saw fence...nah, I'm just kidding.
I make the taper by carving off the excess material with a razor knife. The final shape is made by clamping all four legs together and running them across taped-down 60-grit sandpaper.
Result of efforts. The lengths will be trimmed when I figure out what looks right.
The legs have a slightly curved edge and since I don't have a router I found an acceptable profile in the mouth of this open-end wrench.
By running the wrench along the length of the leg I am able to control my hand sanding effort. The idea is to maintain a consistency across all four pieces.
I bought a sheet of 1/4" red oak plywood and cut two side panels. I cut my panels by using various handsaws and time.
The top and bottom panels are cut from 3/8" birch plywood that I had lying around. The additional thickness aids structural support by providing a greater gluing surface area.
Actual gluing operation. Glue, clamp, wait, repeat.
For the bottom panel I decided to provide even more support by installing 1/2" quarter-round pine moulding.
Some hand-mitred pieces to complete the front and back. This bottom section will be painted.
I found some 12" width red oak veneer sheets at the store. They are installed by using a hot iron to activate the pre-applied glue. Skeptical but with open mind I decided to try it. I placed a sheet of non-stick aluminum foil across the veneer in order to protect the wife's iron.
I'm not even believing I'm posting this photo. Would this be considered a power tool? The cotten setting produces 400 degrees F and I just made sure I concentrated my ironing efforts on the edges.
I have to wait 24 hours for the glue to set before trimming up the edges. I remain skeptical. I will be using a Danish oil to finish this piece. My concern is the possible reaction the adhesive has with the oil-based finish. We'll see.
Checking the look. The legs will be trimmed but by how much? There is a fine line between "airy" and "spindly".
Test fitting the woven cane facing. Trimmed the veneer and all seems well...so far.
Cut some trim pieces out of basswood and applied the veneer to them. Normally I would apply the veneer after installing the pieces. Woven cane speaker grill material that is different from the picture when I ordered it. This cane is woven with a black plastic mesh that gives it a much darker look. I think it looks alright and it is certainly stronger than the cane-only variety.
The trim pieces installed to form a lip around the inside edge. This provides a lot of extra support to the structure.
The lip also forms a ledge for the faceplate to rest up against. The faceplate is pushed up against the lip from behind by the installed case. The caning will be mounted to the faceplate using a spray adhesive.
60-grit sandpaper wrapped around a block to level out the face. First coat of natural Danish oil applied.
Veneer applied to face and trimmed. Second coat of Danish oil applied using 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper.
I should just quit now and call it a computer hidden in a speaker.
What I'm doing here in this thread is trying out new materials, finishes and methods to see how they work. It does however have a theme because it's just mo' fun that way.
A blogger over at Core77 challenged me to do something in the mid century modern style. MCM is all about vast expanses of wooden surfaces and that works well with my experimentations.
I did some research and came up with this early-Sixties Danish-designed desk that I liked a lot. The floating table top was a common design during the period. Slender legs and an overall airiness were typical of the period. The television show Mad Men has made MCM very popular and the front mounted built-in bar cabinet reminds me of the show.
This project will be built around a Silverstone TJ08. It is a steel case that fits micro-ATX motherboards. I have no intention to spend money on computer components for this rig. My design will have no provisions for optical drives, USB ports, ventilation ports or anything else that supports imaginary installed equipment. I will however design it so these things can be easily backfit if required. The vent system will be custom built to whatever ends up inside...if anything.
My intention is to purchase all the materials at my local DIY. For me, that means Lowe's. I start off with 1/2" x 2" x 24" red oak boards that will be formed into the legs. Here is a stock board next to one that I have rough-cut into a taper. I make the taper by adjusting my table saw fence...nah, I'm just kidding.
I make the taper by carving off the excess material with a razor knife. The final shape is made by clamping all four legs together and running them across taped-down 60-grit sandpaper.
Result of efforts. The lengths will be trimmed when I figure out what looks right.
The legs have a slightly curved edge and since I don't have a router I found an acceptable profile in the mouth of this open-end wrench.
By running the wrench along the length of the leg I am able to control my hand sanding effort. The idea is to maintain a consistency across all four pieces.
I bought a sheet of 1/4" red oak plywood and cut two side panels. I cut my panels by using various handsaws and time.
The top and bottom panels are cut from 3/8" birch plywood that I had lying around. The additional thickness aids structural support by providing a greater gluing surface area.
Actual gluing operation. Glue, clamp, wait, repeat.
For the bottom panel I decided to provide even more support by installing 1/2" quarter-round pine moulding.
Some hand-mitred pieces to complete the front and back. This bottom section will be painted.
I found some 12" width red oak veneer sheets at the store. They are installed by using a hot iron to activate the pre-applied glue. Skeptical but with open mind I decided to try it. I placed a sheet of non-stick aluminum foil across the veneer in order to protect the wife's iron.
I'm not even believing I'm posting this photo. Would this be considered a power tool? The cotten setting produces 400 degrees F and I just made sure I concentrated my ironing efforts on the edges.
I have to wait 24 hours for the glue to set before trimming up the edges. I remain skeptical. I will be using a Danish oil to finish this piece. My concern is the possible reaction the adhesive has with the oil-based finish. We'll see.
Checking the look. The legs will be trimmed but by how much? There is a fine line between "airy" and "spindly".
Test fitting the woven cane facing. Trimmed the veneer and all seems well...so far.
Cut some trim pieces out of basswood and applied the veneer to them. Normally I would apply the veneer after installing the pieces. Woven cane speaker grill material that is different from the picture when I ordered it. This cane is woven with a black plastic mesh that gives it a much darker look. I think it looks alright and it is certainly stronger than the cane-only variety.
The trim pieces installed to form a lip around the inside edge. This provides a lot of extra support to the structure.
The lip also forms a ledge for the faceplate to rest up against. The faceplate is pushed up against the lip from behind by the installed case. The caning will be mounted to the faceplate using a spray adhesive.
60-grit sandpaper wrapped around a block to level out the face. First coat of natural Danish oil applied.
Veneer applied to face and trimmed. Second coat of Danish oil applied using 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper.
I should just quit now and call it a computer hidden in a speaker.
