Melted connector

Joined
Dec 4, 2005
Messages
671
Well PC has been randomly crashing the last few nights. This morning it wouldn't boot at all. Figured my m4 died, as I couldn't see the disk on my bios.

Popped open the side and found this...

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I'm assuming this is an m4 warranty thing (disk is maybe 6-8 months old) I replaced my 128 with a 256 and put my 128 in my laptop.

Anyone experience this? Where would you start? The disk was working but wouldn't boot to windows. Now seems to have completely tapped out.
 
Is the connection straight from the PSU or are you using an adapter? (I'm asking to see whether or not you can repair or replace the connector.)

Have you tried running your SSD on another system or with a different connector?
 
It's on an adapter. I pulled a standard one from my HS bay and connected it. It recognized the drive, and tried to boot to windows (got loading screen). But kept asking for chkdsk, if I did it, it would reboot after, if not it just started again at bios splash. Lasted a few tries, now the bios quit seeing the drive again
 
My guess is that something damaged the drive.

Of course, without going nuclear -- either a Windows repair or a reinstall -- it's only a guess.
 
Ya, weird how the connector melted but the drive housing itself is fine. I expected some major swelling. I'm surprised the PSU could produce enough current to melt the connector.
 
Something caused a bit of a short-circuit, it seems. Could be on the PSU side or SSD side, hard to tell. It's even possible that the adapter itself shorted out inside.

Consider yourself lucky it didn't completely fry the drive, I'd say :)
 
What do the pins inside that connector look like?

Apparently it's sometimes possible to plug certain SATA power connectors at an angle and cause a short between the voltage and ground pins.
 
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Connector is cooked. I'll pull drive off. But drive has quit responding.

I wouldn't say it was a crooked/angled connector. It was well seated, and hasn't been touched since I bought the 256GB about 6 month ago.
 
Had the same thing happen, a bit worse.
SATA power connector melted and smoked a lot.
Unplugged the drive and put it on another connector, worked fine.

Some power connectors are not very well made imo.
 
Clean it up, it may be ok.
Non abrasive cleaning though, any damage you do might invalidate a warranty claim if needed.
Although a claim could be denied anyway as this isnt the fault of the drive, all the connections look in order.
 
Ya. I doubt they will warranty it. I'll send it off anyway, in the meantime ill have to pick up a new drive.

I used just my thumb to wipe off soot etc. no dice on boot. I can get it to show windows logo, then it flashes a blue screen and reboots. Windows repair doesn't help.
 
As a precautionary measure, you may need to replace the power supply... and possibly invest in a new UPS or surge protector.
 
Ya. I'll look at a new PSU. That type of heat would take some serious amp draw. I'll be getting a UPS. Was just using a Power Bar.

Do you have a PSU recommendation for my setup. I know I went big the first time, Incase I went CF. Dual cards won't be happening, no games I want to play that would need it. Chances are I'll go with a new PC next time there is a heavily taxing game I want to play on PC.

PC as in sig with 2x Hitachi 7k1000.D in addition.
Current not OCed, though may go back up to 4.5-4.7 to help with encoding of my kids movies onto NAS.
 
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I recommend keeping things simple and going with the Corsair TX650 ($90). If you prefer modular cables, I suggest the Seasonic G Series 650W PSU ($100).

As for the UPS, I recommend looking for one with at least 1200VA. APC and Tripp-Lite are two of the better-known manufacturers, but many people prefer their (much more expensive) enterprise/commercial products over their consumer lines.
 
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Agreed on going for the enterprise/commercial versions of APC's products. I have used their consumer units (Back-UPS CS/RS series) and they were total junk, necessitating multiple RMAs due to outright failures and other (mechanical) issues.
 
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