Could someone pls sent me a backup of their Z590 UD AC bios file?

patryk86s

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Nov 23, 2023
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Hi,
I have purchased Z590 UD AC rev.1.1 that was already damaged. It was dropped, while still brand new and in the box, on it's corner causing the bottom right corner to bend in a banana shape around the 5th Sata3 connector. As a result of this, the motherboard wont power on, although nothing is cracked. I am not able to turn it on with the two power pins on the board "+PW-" however, if i press the "Qflash_Plus" button with the USB drive and renamed F9 bios file on it, it flashes the bios and then starts for about 5 seconds, it spins the fans on both the cpu and the gpu.

I was trying to turn on the board by other means like buying a PS/2 keyboard that has both power and sleep buttons on it but sadly this didn't work as the option "Power On By Keyboard" is disabled by default. Could I please ask for an advice on how to turn on the board with the latest F9 bios that I have at the moment that's already been reset to factory settings with the cmos jumper? I am trying to get the ACPI to command the board to turn on, sadly Wake on LAN wasn't a success either and there is no RTC set.
Ideally, if possible, a modified F9 bios that has "Power On By Keyboard" enabled by default would be perfect.

Could someone pls sent me a backup of their Z590 UD AC bios file with the "Power On By Keyboard" enabled?

Kind Regards
Patryk
 

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you can power on a mobo by simply jumping the psu
I did that, the motherboard "starts" up but it doesn't POST. it sort of starts in a zombie mode, the power is there so the funs turn but thats it, no beep from the bios speaker, no post. Ofcourse while the board was on i tried to press the power button\short the 2 pwr pins on the board.
 
Im going to guess that board is shot. Maybe try a cmos reset via removing the battery and letting the board discharge. Most computers I have would default to on with power if I did that. Ive never had a working motherboard that couldn't be turned on by jumping the psu.
 
Im going to guess that board is shot. Maybe try a cmos reset via removing the battery and letting the board discharge. Most computers I have would default to on with power if I did that. Ive never had a working motherboard that couldn't be turned on by jumping the psu.
Yeah it's likely damaged. No idea how that happened while it was in the box unless it was dropped a really long way and not secure in the box.
 
Im going to guess that board is shot. Maybe try a cmos reset via removing the battery and letting the board discharge. Most computers I have would default to on with power if I did that. Ive never had a working motherboard that couldn't be turned on by jumping the psu.
Cmos reset was done, the board does not power on at ac return.
To test the theory about the jumping the psu to turn on the board i performed this very same test on an old motherboard with cpu and ram lying around that is known to be working. Sure enough the board powered on, but also it did not post until i shorted the pwrbt + and - pins.

The green and black wire is ps_on and ground. There's also PG gray wire (power good) that i provided with 3.3v from another jumped psu just to fool the psu that the board is saying "all good" but that didnt work
 
Cmos reset was done, the board does not power on at ac return.
To test the theory about the jumping the psu to turn on the board i performed this very same test on an old motherboard with cpu and ram lying around that is known to be working. Sure enough the board powered on, but also it did not post until i shorted the pwrbt + and - pins.
Good test most of my stuff was enterprise hardware from LGA 1366 onward.

I think the theory of puting a modded bios or version with power on enabled would give a definitive answer if it's possible to start this particular motherboard.
 
That big crack by the screwhole may have broken a trace that it needs to use to boot. Almost looks like it was dropped and something heavy fell on it and bent and broke the board.
 
I have nothing useful to offer, but dang that bend is insane. I don't understand how that would have happened from a drop, even if it was a drop out of an airplane. Looks like someone curb stomped it.
 
That big crack by the screwhole may have broken a trace that it needs to use to boot. Almost looks like it was dropped and something heavy fell on it and bent and broke the board.
yes and no.
No as it is ground and instead of being all around the screw hle in a shape of a letter O it is now (due to the crack) in a shape of the letter C, a test with the multimeter clearly concluded that the ground runs in a wide area around it and the crack does not affect it.
and.. Yes it might as the board has 6 layers... :(
 
I have nothing useful to offer, but dang that bend is insane. I don't understand how that would have happened from a drop, even if it was a drop out of an airplane. Looks like someone curb stomped it.
it got whacked brand new in the box. The box is also messed up accordingly.
If all methods fail the plan is to use strong carpenter like clamps and some wood to straighten it :)
 
Did you buy it knowing it was damaged may I ask ? I've been able to straighten warped boards with a heat gun, working it straight while softened then popping it in the freezer so it takes the new set.
 
Well, I didn't understand what you meant that the board was bent in a banana shape, but it makes sense now. I hope you got this for very little money, cause I'm not very hopeful about it working again.

That said, if the only major problem is the power switch, I'm hoping the power management stuff isn't in banana land, and you've got three options:

a) the input pin is no longer connected to the header. If you knew what IC and what pin on the IC it's supposed to connect to, you could hack something together

b) the input pin is now bridged to ground / 5v instead of 'floating' with a weak pull up/down. Again, if you knew where it went, you could cut the trace closer to the ic or cut the leg or something.

c) the input pin is fine, but the header for the other switch contact isn't. In this case, you just need another probably ground to connect to.

I'd say, take a working board and probe the power switch headers to see what they look like, and then probe your banana board and see what it looks like.
 
Did you buy it knowing it was damaged may I ask ? I've been able to straighten warped boards with a heat gun, working it straight while softened then popping it in the freezer so it takes the new set.
Yeah I did, it was a bargain and I was tempted by the low price (40usd). The method of heating bending back and cooling is something I will definitely try on this board, thanks for that.
 
Well, I didn't understand what you meant that the board was bent in a banana shape, but it makes sense now. I hope you got this for very little money, cause I'm not very hopeful about it working again.

That said, if the only major problem is the power switch, I'm hoping the power management stuff isn't in banana land, and you've got three options:

a) the input pin is no longer connected to the header. If you knew what IC and what pin on the IC it's supposed to connect to, you could hack something together

b) the input pin is now bridged to ground / 5v instead of 'floating' with a weak pull up/down. Again, if you knew where it went, you could cut the trace closer to the ic or cut the leg or something.

c) the input pin is fine, but the header for the other switch contact isn't. In this case, you just need another probably ground to connect to.

I'd say, take a working board and probe the power switch headers to see what they look like, and then probe your banana board and see what it looks like.
Thanks for your reply, I got it for about 40$

a) I traced it to the IT8689E chip (KBC) and gave it 3.3V (from a 2nd jumped psu) to the pin number 100 responsible for waking from S3 state (SLP_S3).
The board did start up the same way, as it did when I shorted the PSU's black to green wire (gnd to ps_on) which is: fans on, cpu led on (which indicates error), no POST.

b) checked the pins from the pwr switch = 3.37v with the psu connected, traced it to the first IC chip called ITE 5702qxn128 (which is also an RGB controller and temp monitor)
found the pins that also had the same voltage and also switch to 0.00V when pressing the power button - the board did not react.
I've tried the same method of shorting the pins with 3.37v and GND (103 and 104) on the bigger IC chip by the lan ports I mentioned earlier (the IT8689E) but the result was exactly the same - no reaction.

c) the negative pin of the header (-) is connected to ground ok, measured with the multimiter.

Attached are some resources I was following (for the IT8689E I used the schematics of IT8686E and IT8688).
 

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Its got broken traces more than likely. Probably never going to work again unless you were dedicated enough to grind the PCB and jumper all the traces that are busted.
 
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