460 SLI Issues

Stormlifter said:
Well I did what you said. used nvflash to make a backup of ASUS then use that to flash the palit? Did I do that wrong?
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The device id should not of changed in the flash, so something went wrong.

Load the modified rom fil in nibitor whats it read the device id as under adv options?
change it to 10DE - 0E22 if it reads otherwise. reflash.
 
Stormlifter said:
Yup, loaded each ROM that I saved from GPUz into NBitor and that's what it said.
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Can't explain that one... flashing it back to the palit bios should resolve it. But your still going to have issues with green lines and such... get a new bridge, see if that resolves it.

Sorry i couldn't be of more help.
 
Do you see some oddness in that GPUz up there? Now one of them says "PCI-E 2.0x16 @ x16 2.0", before this they didn't say that.

Also I'm having issues flashing back, it's not letting me select the 2nd one (palit)

edit: booted back up without the ASUS and GPUz shows the palit is back to its normal self. Man this is confusing stuff. Put the Asus back in and everything is back to the original problem.
 
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Stormlifter said:
Do you see some oddness in that GPUz up there? Now one of them says "PCI-E 2.0x16 @ x16 2.0", before this they didn't say that.

Also I'm having issues flashing back, it's not letting me select the 2nd one (palit)

edit: booted back up without the ASUS and GPUz shows the palit is back to its normal self. Man this is confusing stuff. Put the Asus back in and everything is back to the original problem.
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Mine registers the same in gpu-z one is 2.0 other is not. So maybe that's a good sign? laugh. These cards are supposed to be the same, you would think the bios would be inter compatible.... shrug. The flash did work, it just changed your device id... might be some kind of anti hack protocol, who knows.

Here is a thought, did you flash the palit with the asus still installed? If so try to flash it with the Asus not connected. Maybe its not letting you flash it to that Device ID because its already reading the asus card has that id. Normally when i flash my cards they are in SLI. May or may not work, just a thought. I'm leaning more towards the bridge being your problem though, I'm just curious about that whole device id thing.
 
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Well now they're both PCI-E 2.0 on my side now.
Also it "seems" that if I switch the SLI option to alternate rendering 2 that it helps quite a bit. But still unacceptable. Guess I'll have to wait for the new SLI Bridges to come in unless there are anymore suggestions?
 
I had a similar problem, and it turned out one of the PCI-E slots was defective. Have you tested each card separately in each slot?
 
The problem could very well be the bridge but I agree with Mad Oblivion that those are rarely the issue.

A few questions;

1. Have you tried my suggestion of completely removing the realtek nic from the scenario, deleting the driver, disabling the nic in the bios and using driver sweeper to hose all traces of realtek?

2. Have you tried updating your motherboard chipset drivers? Install these for windows 7 x64 Win 7 X64 Update for X58 Must accept License Agreement

3. Try flashing both cards with the palit bios as supposed to the asus bios? Worth a shot since your in a flashing frenzy already :p
 
Looks like I got my troubleshooting cut out for me again. I'm a bit busy today, but I'll get to it soon.

1) Updated the drivers Lord Exodia sent me
2) Going to try running a card in the bottom slot by itself to test that slot.
3) Try the whole removing realtek situation (had no idea that it could cause artifacts)
4) Attempt to flash the ASUS to the palit BIOS
 
Indeed, I do love learning, hope I find something out after all this besides "screw SLI".

Okay restarted to test the other blue slot with the ASUS, everything is fine, no artifacts nothing. To confirm that's just the ASUS in the lower blue slot, the palit is out and there are no artifacts.
 
Stormlifter said:
Indeed, I do love learning, hope I find something out after all this besides "screw SLI".

Okay restarted to test the other blue slot with the ASUS, everything is fine, no artifacts nothing. To confirm that's just the ASUS in the lower blue slot, the palit is out and there are no artifacts.
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My next suggestion was going to be to examine the slot itself for dust or hair, which could cause a bad contact, but if it runs fine solo in the slot that shouldn't be the problem.

I had a card that would run "ok" solo but when i SLI'd it something went wrong,Lock up&artifacts not recognizing monitor on bad card sometimes. It was a refurb from evga. The only thing i could see wrong with the card is one of the pins had a hairline crack in it, like the card had be dropped at some point. It was so small you needed a magnifying glass to see it well.
That's the problem with troubleshooting so many possibility's, i understand your frustration. If you do get a new bridge and it turns out not to work, are the cards under warranty?
 
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Stormlifter said:
Yup, loaded each ROM that I saved from GPUz into NBitor and that's what it said.
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You meant the rom you saved with nibitor right? thats the one i wanted you to look at. GPU-Z should of saved the originals as bin. just checking.
 
So I removed the Realtek NIC drivers and the NVIDIA ones and restarted and turned off the NIC in the BIOS then booted back up and reinstalled drivers for NVIDIA then restarted and it still had the problems. AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
 
Stormlifter said:
Well new one should be here by Monday. So we shall see. Hopefully it is, because I really wanna enjoy Battlefield 3 with my SLI setup on the 25th.
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To go over everything we tried

1. Underclocking cards
2. Each card alone
3. Verified wnd slot is good
4. Flashing matching bioses with both cards
5. Realtek nic issues
6 Different drivers

The last thing I can think of is the bridge. BTW if there is anything above you didn't try and I simply assumed you did be sure to give it a try. I wished you lived locally, in northeastern New Jersey I have like 4 Sli bridges that I don't need. LOL :p
 
Lord_Exodia said:
To go over everything we tried

1. Underclocking cards
2. Each card alone
3. Verified wnd slot is good
4. Flashing matching bioses with both cards
5. Realtek nic issues
6 Different drivers

The last thing I can think of is the bridge. BTW if there is anything above you didn't try and I simply assumed you did be sure to give it a try. I wished you lived locally, in northeastern New Jersey I have like 4 Sli bridges that I don't need. LOL :p
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1. Didn't try that actually
2. Yup
3. wnd slot?
4. Yup
5. Yup
6. Which drivers do you recommend?

Man yeah, that would be awesome. I don't know any [h] from here in Orlando next to UCF.
 
Stormlifter said:
1. Didn't try that actually
2. Yup
3. wnd slot?
4. Yup
5. Yup
6. Which drivers do you recommend?

Man yeah, that would be awesome. I don't know any [h] from here in Orlando next to UCF.
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Sorry for 2. I meant to type 2nd Slot.

As for 6. I'd try a few different ones from the latest and previous official whql to the newest beta.

Also I should have added a 7. Which would be to increase the voltage of the gpu's slightly. I remember reading about the newer nvidia drivers requiring people to up their gpu voltage slightly to gain stability but didn't follow the story closely. Anyway using something like afterburner it's worth a shot to see if anything stabilizes
 
Lord_Exodia said:
Sorry for 2. I meant to type 2nd Slot.

As for 6. I'd try a few different ones from the latest and previous official whql to the newest beta.

Also I should have added a 7. Which would be to increase the voltage of the gpu's slightly. I remember reading about the newer nvidia drivers requiring people to up their gpu voltage slightly to gain stability but didn't follow the story closely. Anyway using something like afterburner it's worth a shot to see if anything stabilizes
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Voltage wont fix his problem, Different kind of artifacting and he would be experiencing at least some kind of display driver crashes if the voltage was so low to cause that kind of problem.

I would try underclocking them, its possible your psu is not up to par but not likely.
 
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MadOblivion said:
Voltage wont fix his problem, Different kind of artifacting and he would be experiencing at least some kind of display driver crashes if the voltage was so low to cause that kind of problem.
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Not from my experiences. I've seen a slight lack of voltage cause similar problems in the past. Again I think it's worth a shot. Look at all the crazy stuff he's tried so far. Surely this isn't that crazy of an idea to at least try it.
 
Lord_Exodia said:
Not from my experiences. I've seen a slight lack of voltage cause similar problems in the past. Again I think it's worth a shot. Look at all the crazy stuff he's tried so far. Surely this isn't that crazy of an idea to at least try it.
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Its just i know what not enough voltage looks like with these cards, and thats not it. He can try it but i know it wont work. A faulty psu would be more likely, or a faulty power cable.
 
Well my PSU is now updated on the main page. Corsair CMPSU-850TX 850-Watt TX Series
Also I can't do any voltage mods yet without hacking the BIOS I think. MSI Afterburner and the nVidia panel show the voltage as locked.
 
Stormlifter said:
Well my PSU is now updated on the main page. Corsair CMPSU-850TX 850-Watt TX Series
Also I can't do any voltage mods yet without hacking the BIOS I think. MSI Afterburner and the nVidia panel show the voltage as locked.
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You need to go into the settings for msi afterburner and add a check for unlock voltage control.
 
Just since I'm so happy it all worked out. My Unigen Engine benchmark score at 1920x1080 4xAA was: 56FPS
 
Stormlifter said:
Just since I'm so happy it all worked out. My Unigen Engine benchmark score at 1920x1080 4xAA was: 56FPS
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I bet you cant top my furmark score of X2655 3dmark11. :-P not stable for 24/7 use but w/e lol. I just wish i had more video ram, sad face.
 
actually my setup doesn't seem to effect 3Dmark for whatever reason and my score was same as before.. Could've been a fluke, but who knows.
 
I know this is a old post but i figured out why you couldn't flash them to the same bios,

U have to use this command 2. nvflash -p -u -r -j file.rom [Enter]

(Different model card, removes eeprom protection, using different firmware)
 
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